- -r * - .i T. , * %
. v . " * ' . : , . '
Che Conservative *
fragments of a rock entirely similar
to that found at the base of the peak ,
excepting perhaps a little more com
pact in its structure. By removing a
few of these fragments , they were
found to rest upon a bed of ice ,
which is of great thickness , and may
perhaps , bo as permanent as the rocks
with which it occurs.
"It was about 4 o'clock p. m. when
the party arrived on the summit. In
our way wo had attempted to cross a
largo field of snow , which occupied
a deep ravine , extending down about
half' a mile from the top , on the
southeastern side of the peak. This
was , however , found impassable , be
ing covered with a thin ice , not suffi
ciently strong to bear the weight of a
man. Wo had not been long on the
summit when wo were rejoined by
the man who had separated from us ,
near the outskirts of the timber. He
had turned' aside and lain down to
rest , and afterwards pursued his
journey by a different route.
"Fromthe summit of the peak , the
view towards the northwest and
southwest is diversified with innum
erable mountains , all white with
snow ; and on some of the more dis
tant it appears to extend down to
their bases. Immediately under our
feet , on the west , lay the narrow
valley of the Arkansa , which we
could trace running towards the
northwest , probably more than sixty
miles.
' ' north side of the
On the peak was
an immense mass of snow and ice.
The ravine in which it lay terminated
in a woodless and apparently fertile
valley , lying west of the first great
ri'dge , and extending far towards the
north. This valley must undoubtedly
contain a considerable branch of the
Platte. In a part of it , distant prob
ably thirty miles , the smoke of a
largo fire was distinctly seen , sup
posed to indicate the encampment of
a party of Indians.
"To the east lay the great plain ,
rising as it receded , until in the
distant horizon it appeared to mingle
with the sky. A little want of trans
parency in the atmosphere , added to
the great elevation from which we
saw the plain , prevented our dis
tinguishing the small inequalities of
the surface. The Arkausa , witli
several of its tributaries , and some of
the branches of the Platte , could bo
distinctly traced as on a map , by the
line of timber along their courses.
"On the south the mountain is con
tinued , having another summit , ( sup
posed to bo that ascended by Captain
Pike ) at the distance of eight or ton
miles. This , however , falls much
below the high peak in point of
elevation being wooded quite on its
top. Between the two lies a small
lake , apparently a milo long , and half
A ,
a milo wide , discharging eastward
into the Boiling-spring creek. A few
miles further towards the south , the
range containing these two peaks
terminates abruptly.
"Tho weather was calm and clear
while the detachment remained on
the peak ; but we were surprised to
observe the air in every direction
filled with such clouds of grasshop
pers , as partially to obscure the day.
They had been seen in vast numbers
above all the higher parts of the
mountain , and many had fallen upon
the snow and perished. It is , per
haps , difficult to assign the cause
which induces these insects to ascend
to these highly elevated regions of
the atmosphere. Possibly they may
have undertaken migrations to some
remote district ; but there appears
not the least uniformity in the di
rection of their movements. They
extended upwards from the summit
of the mountain to the utmost limit
of vision ; and as the sun shone
brightly , they could be seen by the
glittering of their wings , at a very
considerable distance.
"About all the woodless parts of
the mountain , and particularly on
the summit , numerous tracks were
seen , resembling those of the common
deer , but most probably have been
those of the animal called the big
horn. The skulls and horns of these
animals we had repeatedly seen near
the licks and saline springs . at the
foot of the mountain , but they are
known to resort principally about the
most elevated and inaccessible places.
' ' The party remained on the summit
only about half an hour ; in this
time the mercury fell to 42 degrees ,
the thermometer hanging against the
side of a rock , which in all the
early part of the day had been ex
posed to the direct rays of the sun.
At the encampment of the main body
in the plains , a corresponding ther
mometer stood in the middle of the
day at 96 degrees , and did not fall
below 80 degrees until a late hour in
the evening.
1' At about five in the afternoon the
party began to descend , and a little
before sunset arrived at- the com
mencement of the timber ; but before
we reached the small stream at the
bottom of the first descent , wo per
ceived we had missed our way. It
was now become so dark as to render
an attempt to proceed extremely haz
ardous ; and as the only alternative ,
wo kindled a fire , and laid ourselves
down upon the first spot of level
ground wo could find. Wo had
neither provisions nor blankets ; and
our clothing was by no means suit
able for passing the night in so bleak
and inhospitable a situation. We
could not , however , proceed without
imminent danger from precipices ; and
by the aid of a good firo. and no or
dinary degree of fatigue , found our
selves able to sleep during a greater
part of the night.
"At daybreak on the following
morning , the thermometer stood at 88
degrees. As wo had few comforts
to leave , wo quitted our camp as soon
as the light was sufficient to enable
us to proceed. Wo had traveled
about three hours when we discovered
a dense column of sinoko rising from
a deep ravine on the left hand. As
wo concluded this could be no other
than the encampment where we
had left our blankets and provisions ,
wo descended directly towards it.
The fire had spread and burnt ex
tensively among the leaves , dry grass ,
and small timber , and was now rag
ing over an extent of several acres.
This created some apprehension , lest
the smoke might attract the notice
of any Indians who should be at that
time in the neighborhood , and who
might be tempted by the weakness of
the party to offer some molestation.
But we soon discovered a less equivo
cal cause of regret in the loss of our
cache of provisions , blankets , cloth
ing , etc. , which had not escaped the
conflagration. ' Most of our baggage
was destroyed ; but out of the ruins
we collected a beggarly breakfast ,
which we ate , notwithstanding its
meanness , with sufficient appetite.
We chose a different route for the
remaining part of the descent from
the one taken in going up , and by
that means avoided a part of the diffi
culty arising from the crumbling
granite ; but this was nearly compen
sated by the increased numbers of
yuccas and prickly pears.
"We arrived a little after noon at
the boiling spring , where wo in
dulged freely in the use of.its highly
aerated and exhilarating waters. In
the bottom of both these springs a
great number of beads and other
small articles of Indian ornament
were found , having unquestionably
been left there as sacrifices or pres
ents to the springs , which are re
garded with a sort of veneration by
the savages. Bijeau assured us ho
had repeatedly taken beads and
other ornaments from these springs ,
and sold them to the same savages
who had thrown them in.
' ' A large and much frequented road
passes the springs , and enters the
mountains , running to the north of
the high peak. It is traveled prin
cipally by the bison , sometimes also
by the Indians ; who penetrate hereto
to the Columbia.
"Tho men who had boon left at the
horse camp about a milo below the
springs , had killed several deer , and
had a plentiful supply of provisions.
Hero the detachment dined ; then
mounting our horses , wo proceeded