. , - - . , . . , . . . . - - A . / . . , ; i ' : . ' .J : . . i . . .L. - . ' - j , ; 'f . " r ThThVMEtT 10l WoPtiN ' . , . . ; . . . I . I - - f I TIic DIrecloIrc Frock. ' " , . Long ! , languid lines unbroken by a frill , ' M . ; ' " , . Superfluous festoons reduced to nil , . - A figure like a seal reared up on end 'r , , ' - And poking forward with a studied bend ; ; . .A sbortish neck imprisoned in a ruff , , " Skin-fitting sleeves that show a stint of , stuff , I A waist promoted half way' up the back. And not a shred that's comfortably , slack ; A multitude of buttons , row on row. : Not there for business - merely made for ' . . sho , , ' , A skirt whose meager gores necessitate . tChe ! waddle of a Chinese lady's gait. I i A "busby" toque extinguishing the hair As if a giant hand had crushed it there- I Behold the latest mode ! and write be- c neath , II a * * A winter blossom bursting from its 'sheath. ' " i ; I j v Ir I . - -Punch. r - - i ! Comb That IVon'l Fall Out , \ ! There is 5 no longer any reason for ! : women losing their backcombs. A Mas : , ! sachusetts nun has devis-ed a comb 1 j K I , r- . yY B I . I : iI i I It , . . li II l ! . II that "stays put" and will not come out unless the hair comes off so wom en with detachable . puffs must anchor i it securely. This . comb is made in two parts , one of which is a plain comb with aper- tures at the top , and the other a . . , . , . jsiw IOMIJ. puue , on wmcu is the carrying the gold or silver mount- ing I or whatever there is of ornamenta- I tion. This plate has projections on it . ' that fit into the apertures in the top of the comb proper ( , and by catching a few strands of hair between the parts be- I } fore > ' they are joined the whole will be : 1 kept in ] > Iaclall ( : ' a valuable comb , Jewel-studded or otherwise costly , has I been lost through working its way out { i of the hair and : falling to the ground or , , l ' , floor a n not 1 cert. With this new device r in use there will he no danger of such I misfortune ami ' my lady may wear the most costly Hair ornament without fear. - - MILLINERY J w w For the most part hat shapes are towering. Among the small hats are turbans of slh'er.ith colored aigrettes. There is a fad just now for making the color of the hat pins contribute to : the trimming of the hat. Some of the smartest of the new hat- plus are small enameled plaques in all tones of color. The lavender sweet pea is new and Is seen only on the most expensive l1a ts. Grapes are used as millinery trim- 4nings and in iridescent colorings , chief- ' Jy greens , they are beautiful. . . . Ilaiid.ioiuc Evening Toilet. l . , , . , r . c : . I I - - ' - ' . --'t- ' . : r He - l4' ; . . t. . , iL j iLy y ; ' ' 1 r ' i r,11 4 , . " t. 4 s . ry. v r , e . , lti , / f { , I t1 , 1 # I . : , . ' . , , . . P ' . , . - ! r r m. ' , . . . . . " " , . . . . I l , v w I , ' ' _ f k \ . d L : , r C t ' One of the richest well \ \ as as the most beautiful gowns seen this season is an empire model of rose pink chif . ton satin with low corsage and sleeves ' " of wide bands of Irish lace. It is jCxtremely simple in construction , but r f every line and fold Is perfectly hung. ( . . J 'This could I I , of course , be carried out 'In any of tho soft clinging materials ; . with ; equally good results. " . .r - . ' For he Knth. i : . Oie : athletic young ' voiiiiii indulges a . S frequently in what she calls her "home- > - : mad" : Turkish bath. " It is a fact as c ; she says , that one cannot always , , cleanse : the skin thoroughly ! with only , n , ; - - soap : andalor : and Comparatively : smooth cloth. A cold-cream bath on 1'- t Ihf lace v.iI : : provo , that. Therefore < = he i.iies , a ss'i.jM : ! s-nb brush. of the , . ; ' - ; : . ) rf : ; niueS'iiiirs ! ) soKl in drug ' stores for tt t . : . . " , . mil ' irushtgun 5 : ( . 'lil - st wetting the . ' , . ' fcoflyh : : a : m rjionsre , ; andjiot rvater. the si , . - . . " 1 tlii- , - . . . . lather. This t : . -jt : " .s. . . : : : id n > " c..a s-J.ip h" ! - " " , , ' . ' . , . , . ' . . " . , , . , , ' ' . - ' : : ' " ; . . ' ' . . , ' , : , . . : . ' - \ f' . 0 . . - , J . \ I HANDSOME BALI GOWN. " . . ' . ' . . , . . , , - . , , ' ' , , ' /h : - ; . S- / , ' ' 'i ; ' < : : : . . ' $ ' , \ : : . . .f' _ , . ; ; . J. : ' ' " ' . - _ - 1 . o .Ji sa ; . J tv 'f , _ . : ra"\\i. . . ? ' ) . . . . . . . . ( : JI1 . ' n .f' " Ii - 1 ; > 'f.-v ' . ' . , . . --.11f6' I ; j-4 ) / . . . . . 'M . .J . .Ill A t. I , I n 4 , I h III % % t1t Op , . ' c ' \1 t t.a 11 I. \1J' \ , t .b . ' ; j . I I ll ; P d IIk . - ' . ' - , + - ' ; , . ' t i . . ' . J 1 I A stunning creation in coral satin , with pointed design in front of skirt and bodice embroidered in small jet and gold beads. The Greek key on hem of skirt and on bodice is done in jet beads. A band of Irish crochet lace goes down into the pores and cleanses them , carries off more old skin and particles of dust and waste than the ordinary wash cloth , and stimulates the circulation. The soap is next thor- oughly rinsed off with hot water , and the bath followed by a cold showei and a brisk rub. For the not too Yig- . orous person , a slight rest adds to the beneficial effect but , whether with , . or without the concluding soap , the i treatment will be found both refresh- ing and invigorating. The Home Hospital. The hospital drawer should be fitted up with the following articles : Two large and four small bed pads. To make these use two old bed quilts , one cut in two pieces and the other in four. Fold these together , the best side .out , and quilt on the machine. Have two covers for each pad. The best is cheap unbleached canvas as it washes white and looks , well. Three packakes : of thin cloth. This is : to be used for mustard plasters. Cut in various sizes , some square tt and some longer than wide. One roll of old linen. This cloth is used for bathing the face or for burns , cuts or soreswhere lint or cotton cloth would be harmful. Save for this pur- pose all old tablecloths , napkins and : - andl erchlefs. One roll of long strips of muslin and llauncl. tJ e this for sore throats and si ; rains , cuts and abscesses. One roil cotton. One , package large , square , soft cloths. Sew on two sides for making bran , slippery elm , hop and flaxseed meal poultices. One package small sacks for dry , hot poultices , such as salt or hops. One and one-half yards of rub- ber sheeting. One box mustard. One cake pure castile soap. One hot water bag. One bottle smelling salts. One small jar of air-slaked lime and linseed oil , as it affords instant relief Cor burns. ) Pin a label on the rolls so that no matter who goes to the drawer they san lay their hands on just what is mntl'd : and not keep l the suffering one waiting. ? .r/ and /anaes ; ; -lIJn iroff . J Plain shirt waists prevail. I Checks and plaids are popular. J The extra long corset has won out. 1 Many : variations of bolero are seen. The dainty embroidery vogue in- I creases. 1 ' + Shoes stockings and 'gloves should latch the gown. " Black lace edged with velvet is the atest thing in sashes. I The turnover linen collar with jabot Till be worn as of yore. 1 For the dressy waist the tucked sleeve is generally ; chosen. 1 Because of the thumb-length sleeves . . . - " , ' , ' , . . 4 : . ' . . . . . ' outlines the square cut neck inl : undcr- sleeves of same fall just a trifle below those of satin. This is one of the rich- est costumes shown by well-known importer. gloves ; are very often omitted in the evening. , With the tailored suits coarse mesh net waists will he much worn. ' The fashionable stocking is the film- iest , laciest , daintiest bit of gauze imag , inable - also ] the costliest. Double effect veils come in all sorts , of modish colorings , green over brown being a smart combination. Metallic : net bids fair to be much used for hats for more dressy occa sions during the coming season. I Tffl- i a Sif d Iin n , r o A J.f t f 5'r - -L ; ' n . , nB . , The best treatment for baby during r its first year is to attend carefully : C its physical ] wants and to absolutely u ] neglect the fact that it has a ' mind at uIc all. There should be no romping or Ic Ica playing or , in fact , anything which a can interest or excite its mind. Next in importance come proper feeding and a correct training in sleeping. Bad nu Ic trition is the great cause of the nerves TV ; getting into that state which easily leads up to nervousness , stammering , JeJ St. Titus' dance , and even convulsions. J If the nerve centers and the brain get iI insufficient food and sleep they be- come e : : l : : t : . - ? . ' . : iud over-strained. To clsL be well nourished the baby must not sLw only have suitable food , but must be w fed at regular intervals. The baby's ca : : nap should be continued until he is 4 ; fli at this time he should be having fully I I bl > twelve hours' sleep. ( Between G and I bi , ( ] 10 , ten and eleven hours are required ; C : ( from 10 to 16 , nine hours. gi bl bla Remedy for Xose Bleed. a L For obstinate and persistent nose th : ar either ice bleeding put an pack or a cloth rung out of ice water at the back to the neck at the ba of just base of the baw . . . . . w. brain or drop cold water from a sponge held well above the head sa ! \ so that it will strike the crown of the head with con- siderable force. Eh The head should be kept well ele- sI I vated : even in cases of ' extreme weak- yomi ness do not allow the patient to lie m down : and small wads of absorbent cot- re ton wet with a weak solution of carbol- m < ic acid should be used to plug the nos- trils. ell If the arms are held above the head sil for : five or ten minutes the bleeding , if we lOt severe will usually stop. ' WI w The Grind That Dulls. If the scissors grinder kept his ar ed blade on the whetstone unceasingly the , wi scissors would soon be useless. The grind that dulls women is not daily an household duties , but never letting up gr : : fu : on thoe duties. The kousewife who in u mr mowing keeps herself sharpened with fa < frequent change and recreation. : Cel . ' ) . : ' . ' , ' . - , . . . . . . . , , . , . . - - - - - - . , THE VOICELESS. : ' . \ , i ' - , , * We - count the . . ; " ' broken that > lyres rest ! . oJ , _ , Where the sweet wailing singers slumber , ' " - , ' : . But o'er their silcri sister's breast : ' , . . . - , : , . The wild-flowers who will stoop to number7 - . . . . . A few can touch the magic string ' . t . . And noisy Fame is proud to win them- ' , . " . Alas ! for those that never sing , ' . . But die with all thc-ir music in them ! . ! \a ' . grieve ( not for the dead alone Whose has told theIr hearts' " _ song : sad story - Wcep for the voiceless who have known . The cross without the ! crown of glory ; ! . . * I ' N'ot where Leucadian breezes sweep " : . - , , O'er Sapi Iho's memory-haunted billow. . , But where the glistening night-dews weep , . , * On nameless sorrow's churchyard pillow.- . J , ' . - * * 0 hearts that break r.nd give no sign , Save whitening lip jmd fading tresses , Till Death pours out his longed-for wice , Slow-dropp from Misery's : : crushing presses- , If singing breath or echoing chord To every hidden pang were give , . \ What endless melodies were poured. As sad as arth. . as sweet as heaven I . i-Ollver Wendell Holmes. * ' . J/ a y. .a , / ' , . " ? 1m wl i j it I i : i r7 ; . . . . - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ( The pathetic life of a woman who had ' "married to please. " Narrated by ; Jessie Anderson Stickney. ) It was drawing near the close of the month , and the uppermost thought in every mind that morning was that within twenty-four hours , what the simple folk of Grand Manan : had been pleased to call "the queer crowd at the Turner place" would "be no more by : sea or shore. " For six weeks we had been enjoying life in that quaint little island as only ten arrant Bohemians , blessed either with clear consciences or bad memories can , but now it was all over , and to-morrow would see our woe filled and sun blistered faces turned sorrowfully toward civilization again. Meanwhile we had finished break- fast and were waiting for Asa-in fact full three-fourths of our stay in Grand Manan had been spent in just such "waiting for Asa. " On the night of our I arrival [ at the island. Asa had lounged I up to the little place we had hired and graciously proffered hi ? services as guide or anything else we pleased dur- ing our stay. A lean , lank , lackadaisi Iic cal young giant , his exceeding length of limb , and air of good fellowship , some- how captured our fancy and we hired him then and there , and ever since , Asa's vagaries , Asa's overweening lazi- ness , and general 1 undependableness. . " as little Mrs. : Graham styled it , Asa's soul-harrowing ; good nature and never failing ! penitence , had proved an unen < 1- ng source of amusement and amaze- ment to us all. while Mark : Densmore , our "author , " candidly confessed that Asa had provided him with material for unlimited copy. Asa was even later than usual this morning , however , and we -were corre- spondingly ] elated more than usual fvhen his familiar white horse 'and ' ' long amshackle wagon rattled round the orner. As our antediluvian coach drew up at the door , we saw that instead of : isa's beaming , good-natured face and long loose jointed figure , the driver was woman-and such a woman. As she swung herself over the side nd : came up the graveled walk with a ong , easy graceful stride. Bertie Boyd vas ; the only one to speak. "Diana of Ephesus in a fisherman's lersey , by all that's holy ! " he said. Journalism ( seems to engender the read- ness of tongue. A tall , slender figure , set off by the ilose : . fittingblue jersey and scant flannel iklrt she wore ; a grandly poised head vlth a wealth of brown gold hair aught carelessly back from the face as awless as though chiseled from mar- le , and as colorless , save for the rownish , * - . " tinge - - it . had - gained , through onstant exposure To the sun ; dark ray eyes , so dark as to seem almost ' lack ! under the shade of the lashes ; J mouth perfect in curve and coloring , I r hough perhaps a trifle too closely shut rj rjP .nd severely held for perfect beauty ; P op off the whole with a wide-brimmed , attered straw hat that had once been n rhite ] , and you have our "Diana" as we v aw her for the first time. r < rp "I'm Asa's wife " she said simply , as p he halted in the open doorway. "Asa's ick , but I can drive you all right if sj : ou'll let me. " Then , with a shade vi ore eagerness. as no one spoke-"I ti eally can and-and , we need the Ii : oney < so. " h Of course that settled it , _ and we a. limbed into our accustomed places in a CI ( ilence so contrary to our wont that it ould have filled any beholder with S ; o Bonder. el So that was Asa's redoubtable wife ; ! w re had heard much of her since our I 01 rIval , for it was generally acknowl- flged among the natives that Asa's w ife was just a little "off" in her head , le nd that as Nancy , our chore woman , tt : raphically put it. "Asa'd got his hands in nil and his galluses to hold up" in the lanagement of the said better half. In D ict , we had very often forgiven the i rt jllow I for some more than ordinary ex- { 1 - . I asperating breach of faith on the plea that it was due to another "high falut- in' " notion Bess had taken - and now this was the woman ! Plainly there was : something wrong somewhere At first conversation lagged sadly , but finally Belle Stilton , our school- ma'am. resumed her breakfast table discussion with Mark Dinsmore as to the existence of a future estate. "And do you mean to claim , Mark Dinsmore , " she said slowly. "that with- out the hope of some future life which offers all this life denies - love and peace and the fulfillment of those dear heart desires we put away from us al- most daily-without the hope of some- thing better beyond , nine-tenths of hu- manity would be content to resign themselves to tho dreary dig and grind of each day's toil ? Why there you class us all as little better than idiots ! " "Oh , hardly as bad as that ! " re- plied Dinsmore , calmh . "But what I do claim , now and always , is that un- : less the renunciation of those same de- sires gave us greater pleasure than the taking of them , to a man we would reach out and grasp them at whatever cost. "Stuff and nonsense ! " broke In Miss Stilton energetically. "Then what of the million" who have suffered even martyrdom for conscience' sake ? Was their only aim to gain the greatest pleasure for the present moment ? Take : the hundreds of weak , loving women who are daily and hourly sacrificing themselves on the altars of duty and devotion to some worthless husband or profligate child-are they actuated only by the pleasure such self-cruci- fixion insures them ? " "Unconsciously ; so-yes , " was the an- swer. "I firmly believe that nothing \\hatsoevpr affects the a TMU ! ot man woman or child but his own innatp , perhaps unconscious , conception of what constitutes the truest pleasure and belief as to the , present , past or fu- ture. has nothing whatever to do with it. Omar says it all in : " 0 threats of Hell and hopes of Para Paradise dise ! One thing at least Is certaIn-thIs Life flies ; One thing Is certain and the reat Is Lies ; The Flower that once has blown for- ever dies ! ' " Evidently bitter war was imminent I when Bertie manfully stepped Into the breach by remarking amiably : " "Well , my belief as to the present , anyhow , is that we all seem to be for- getting this is our last chance this sea- son to enjoy all that , " with a compre- hensive wave of his hand toward the magnificent sweep of waters at the base of the cliff along which we were driv ing. And truly before the calm loveli- ness of that never-to-be-forgotten 1 stretch of shimmering sea and sky , all petty human questionings shrank Into ' ( insignificance , and we resigned our- , selves solely to the 'ment enjoyment of the v beauty . of the scene. . ti As a general thing "the crowd at the" .i Turner place" went to roost with the T chickens ; but this was our last night , a and so , when at about half-past nine o there : was a low rap at the door , we were one and all on the mil vive to retl ceive our late visitor. To our surprise tl we heard tue voice of our "Diana , " Ir Asa's wife , asking to see "the tall , dark p young man who wore glasses ; " so the w est of us of course withdrew to the vepi anda , Bertie bewailing audibly "some B people's luck. " tc The girl evidently felt the strange- ness of her position , but DInsmore's well-bred suppression of any surprise h reassured her somewhat , and she p ' Blunged : at once into her errand. vz : "I couldn't help hearing what you s1 * aid this morning , " she began in a cl oice low and clear though slightly ly l tremulous [ , "about ' what makes people SE ive as they do. I mean , and I was h < aoping j-ou'd say more ; but you dIdn't.aJ nd somehow I felt'as If I just had to SF me to-night and ask you to _ " tb She stopped in evident expectation of me reply. but when her mystified list- ener only answered by . asking , 'To-to vhat ? " with a little frown she went Z ! J. , hf "To tell me If you really meant we _ P r vere foils to-to give g up anything un- unof ess . we wanted to ? And that only he present mattered. " leaning forward l her earnes > ness. he "Why-er-yes , that Is - " began i so : Dinsmore. slowly ; but the girl inter- ] upted him joyously : Inter-I "It is true then I" ! she cried. "Now ( J * . ' I I can decide/ ' Ehen she ! turned sad crossed hastily over to old-fashion- - ed mirror above tlie mantelpiece and peered curiously Into her own face "No , it Isn't too late yet , " nodding tfr ; head contentedly , her gray eyes alight with some strange purpose. Suddenly , as If Impelled by & new thought she held out both her brown , well-shaped hands to the wondering young author. "You don't know what yon've done for me , " she said , then ! , a trifle wist- fully , "somehow I'd like to tell you about It - may I ? " and as Mark nodded his assent she sat down again and hes- itatingly commenced her story : "Mv mother was a lady , " she began proudly , "and I , " with a bitter smile , "am Asa Wendall's wife ! It was the only way , though , for mother was sick , almost starving , and I was only sIx- teen , , so what could I do , Asa was awfully fond of me , too. at first , and perhaps. " pathetically , "if he'd had more patience I might ha got to caro for him. But he got to drinking , and then mother died , and things : : lh'g + : i to get worse and -worse. After a bit the baby came"-here her voice broke for a moment , but she went on b'-avd ) jam ' "and for awhile it seemed as If every thing was coming right at last ; but I wasn't strong the first winter , and Asa didn't seem to care. He was aJways good natured to us but he drank barder'n ever , and it seemed as if his slack : , easy-going ways would kill me. If it hadn't ha' been for baby I don't know what I'd done. But one night she took croup and ( Asa was too drunk to go for the doctor. I couldn't leave her for a minute , and by the time I got Asa : sobered up enough it was too late-my little one died. "I went out o' my head for awhile after that , I think , and If I hadn't been afraid of never seeing baby and mother again , I'd . a' drowned myself ; but as it was t Just worried along ; : somehowand then the next summer He came. He was an artist and lodg ( l with us , and after a bit he got to mak- ing pictures of me , and telling me about ' his world ; and one day he - he asked me to go off with him. God only knows how much I wanted to , but somehow them two graves on the hill wouldn't let me , so I sent him atvay , and Asa was furious over losing the money he paid us-saId it was just another of my 'cursed high falutin' no- tions. ' That was three years ago , and he's written once every year since ask- ing if I'd changed my mind ; but I nev- er did till to-day ; then what you 5. ' (1 opened my eyes , and to-morrow I all . going away to him , and enter upon a new life. " For a moment or two after she stopped , speaking there was absolute silence. and then Dinsmore began to talk. I've heard sermons and I've seen plays , but for a realistic picture of the hopeless misery of a life such as she proposed < going to , I have never either seen or heard anything equal to that speech. For twenty minutes he talk d . without a break. Little Belle ' Stilton now and then noiselessly clapped her approval , and when lIe had finished the girl rose slowly and said , as she turned towards the door : "I reckon I'd rather be Asa's wife. " But the funny part of it is that # ; Belle and Mark claim the episodeA / clear proof of their respective sides In the morning's argument. - Pennsylvania Grit WOMAN BUTCHERS. : Trade Undertaken in South America "When Men : Are Scarce. "The butchers In all parts of Para- guay are women , " said Henry C. Reyn- olds of New York , who has just return- ed from a stay of some months in Paraguay , where he Is interested in the cattle industry , says a Washington Herald reporter. "In the public slaugh- ter houses the cattle are dispatched by men. The animal is skinned and oth erwise prepared by women , who are dexterous in the rise of the saw and knife. It Is served ! out to the custom- , rs by women not generally by weight , ) ut by the piece , and the price is very IOVA ow."Women "Women of all ages act the part of butchers. Some are young and pretty and others are old and wrinkled. The women are great bargainers and keen to pull a neTv : arrival almost to ' pieces in , the hope of securing his custoir : , These women butchers earn good wages , and many of those In business on their own , account acquire a modest fortune. "The cause of this state of things Is he heroic war waged by Paraguay thirty years ago against the overwhelm ing forces of Brazil , the Argentine Re ublic and Uruguay combined. Thi3 war , which lasted , five years , bore many oints of resemblance to the recent Boer : Tvar. It ended In the almost total annihilation of the able-bodied male population of the country. "When the war was over the people had been reduced to the most abject poverty and were on the verge of star- vation. Worse still , owing to the de- struction : of the male population , an 1"- chy prevailed , and all the work former- ' , performed by males fell on the fair sex. They rebuilt the houses which had been burned down , tilled the fields and wove for themselves rough home- spun clothing from the cotton grown In their own fields. " ? ot Out of Danger. Wiggles hear BJenks has . beea ill. Is he a rery out of danger ye3t Waggles - Well , he's convalescent , but won't bo out of danger until that retty . nurse who has been taking care him has gone away. - Life. When an elderly man enjoys perfect lealth ! he is as proud of it as a hand- ome young woman of her beauty. A man can keep a secret all rignli it Is a mean story on himself.