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About The McCook tribune. (McCook, Neb.) 1886-1936 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 3, 1885)
SHE KISSED ME. She kissed mo , my beautiful darling , I drank the delight of her lif s ; The universe melted together , Mortality stood in ccijse. ! * A spirit of light stood before me , I lie.ard a far rustle of wings ; The kings of the cartli were iv beggars , Aud the beggars of car h were as kinga RICHARD REALF. MUTINY AM ) ME ] Man's Extremity Amid Wind nnd Wave. American Rural Home. We were becalmed in mid-Pacific. The sails swelled no more than if they had been molten sheets in the tropical sunshine. Yet there was something strange about theseafor it was rough. We had been making good time the day before and I concluded we must have come into a region over which some storm had passed. It was the dry season , too , and I could not ac count for it. But a man finds a good many things on the high seas that he can't readily account for , however scientific he may pretend to land-lub bers to be. When a man loves the sea , the deck of a ship is more to him than a palace , and the salt air nnd the heaving waves , life itself. But there are times when he would give something to have the solid earth to step upon , not in a storm , there he stands to his colors and trusts in Him who can say to the waves : "Peace , be still. " But there are uglier things at sea than storms , things that rise up out of a seeming calm. These compared with storms seem to me like the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans one stormy and fierce , the other tranquil for days together , but with a terrible element brewing in this stillnes. There was on the deck of my good ship , "Vestigia , " an atmosphere more oppressive than the tropic heat with the storm brooding in its heart. Liks every sailor , I had faced the thought of shipwreck. But tins dreadful , in visible comething hanging over me was different , was a horror undreamed of , unendurable. Yet how could I tell that the dread of danger to my wife and baby boy who were with me . had not conjured up aphantasy ? I tried vainly to tell myself that there was really nothing ; there was something , intangible , shapeless , horri ble , palpable at least to those fine per ceptions which transcend tlie senses and often forerun them. I had not an enemy in the world , yes , possibly one , . butif soa man whom I had never seen , though I had cut sharply across his plans and purposes without being re sponsible. He was the nephe\v of my mother's uncle , his wife's nephew. He had been brought up with the old gen tleman and expected to inherit the greater part of his property. But my uncle had left it all to me. Pierce Ar- mitage trusted too much to the fact that my uncle disliked my father. Ar- mitage was wild and lawless and when the money came to me , I was glad to be out of reach of his vindictiveness. I would have rishtedhim ifhehadbeen dealt with unfairly , but he had been repeatedly warned by my uncle. What was this old story , however , to me in mid-Pacific ? Yet , for all my endeav ors , the shadow grew.nearer. One day as I sat on deck with my wife under an awning , she whispered to me suddenly : "I don't like that man. " I looked np. The first mate was going by. All in an instant my dread took form. This mate , Griggs , had been in the "Vestigia" when I was transferred tD command of her. My own mate had been promoted , and Griggs was highly recommended by the ship's owners , but , as the saying is , I had never /'cottoned" / to him. I had struggled 'ayfiinsfc my prejudice , now I under stood it. As I sat there something happened to confirm my dread. My little boy in his play ran across Griggs' path. The mate swerved aside and passed on , and then I saw him cast at the child a look so ven omous that it was with great difficulty I restrained from snatching up my boy in my arms. At last I wasawaks , and I saw that 3 should not have had instincts , or that they should have guided me sooner. It was too late. Some of the men had sailed in the "Vestigia" be fore , others were of Griggs' own choos ing. They were a motley crew , Irish , Swedes , Italians chiefly , good sailors , but men I did not trust , scarcely a Yankee among them. Of late tliey had obeyed me sulkily , and now that my eyes were opened , I recollected how much Griggs had gone among them on some plea , had flattered one , had relieved another from some oner ous , task , done a favor to a third , and so on. I recalled significent looks nnd whispers , and 1 saw that the crew were in the hands of my first mate , and that he meant mischief. I looked at Mary and my boy. To whom could I turn ? I glanced at the second mate , but just then I saw Griggs in passing him thrust a bit of paper into his hand , and a few minutes after I saw this second mate as he stood talking to the man at the wheel give the paper a toss from him into the sea. Instead , it fell against the railing of the ship and caught there uncertainly. I began with my boy a game of ball such as we often played on shipboard , when the unexpected directions of the ball were a great amusement to the child. To-day after taking different directions , I suddenly rolled the ball close to the paper , and told him in a low tone to bring both balls , thepaper and the rubber one. He obeyed , laughing , and I read secretly : "When the watch changes. Have the men armed and ready. Better dis patch Keefe with the captain , he will make trouble. I'll look after the wom- on and the boy. " . I had , then , an hour oflife , nnd he would look after my wife and boy. He ! I looked at them. I would fight. to the last. With a silent m-ayar 11 sent for Keefe in my cabin. In , a. few moments we stood looking into ono another's faces like doomed men. "Is there nobody among them all weican trust ? " I asked. "Not an infernal rascal , ' ' he answer ed. "But one thing , Captain , we'd better begin. " He was right , for then we should die like men instead of rats. I armed Keefe to the teeth. "Let them see you leave , " I said. "Then come back here and conceal yourself. " I wrote some letters , took a packet from my strong-box , went upon deck again , gave the packet to my wife , and drawing her toward me , kissed her passionately. "Keep life and courage for our boy's sake , whatever comes , " I said , and took my bab'y in my arms ; his soft grasp nerved me like the touch of steel. I looked about me like one who looks his last. Still the same calm and the same unaccountable movement of the water , only that it seemed to have increased. I went below , and on some pretense sent for Griggs. He came , but at the first glance at my face , drew back. Too late. The door was double locked , and my pistol at his temple. "Mutiny and murder , " I said to him. "How long do you deserve to live ? What is it for ? " He answered me by a name : "Pierce Armitage. " Then , appeal would be useless. "Shoot ! " he said defiantly. "I shall be avenged. I've breathed hell into your crew. Heaven itself can't save you. " I shuddered ! "Whatever comes , I deny your blasphemy. " I said. At a signal Keefe sprang out. Griggs , or Armitage , was ironed , gagged , and laid upon the cabin floor. Then , double locking the cabin door behind us , we went upon the deck. Thero I called the crew together. 'My men , " I said , "what fault have you to find with your captain ? " They looked at me , and "at one another. "We have spoken none , " answered an Italian in his soft broken English. "Not to me , " I answered , "but worse than that , amonz yourselves and to my mate. You should have come to me with your grievances. I am here now to remedy "them if you will tell me what they are. How is it with you , Gustave Doneldorf ? " I ask ed stalwart Swede , whom a mo ment before 1 had seen " on my left hand , ho had disap peared , and another boon companion with him. I was startled. But the keys of my cabin were safe in my pock et and I went on talking to the men , hoping to pass the fatal hour and to gain at least some adherents. Some of the men listened to me , but all were evidently in expectation of the leader , who could not come. I saw and heard every thing.and noticed that the waves were higher. I talked on , and the men stood more in bewilderment than at tention. What was to have been my death hour was beginning to go by , and no blow had been struck. In spite of loweriii jglancesl had begun to hope , when suddenly I saw Gustave Donel dorf and his companion in their places again , and in another moment there sounded rushing footsteps , and Armi tage sprang upon deck , pistol in hand rushed up to the sailors , and began in English and snatches of their own tonaue to berate them for cowardice. Why he did not kill me instantly , I can't tell ; perhaps he meant to feed me first with horror , being sure of me , 'or the men responded to him like a trigger to the hands that pulls it. My boy ran to me. "Shoot the brat first , " shouted Armitage. I took aim at him and ired , ' but my ball went wide its mark. ? or the ship at the instant rose upon a great wave , and as she plunged downward there was a cry from many throats. I turned. A mountain of vnter was upon us. "Keef sail ! Down hatches ! " Ishout- ed , as at a look from me Keefe snatched my wife and child toward the cabin. In the common dangerthe mutineers forgot themselves in bein sailors , and as if life hung on my words , my orders were executed with magic speed. It was none too soon. The cabin door was barely closed when ; he frightful wave was upon us. We : hrew ourselves upon the deck , faces downward , and hands grasping at vhatever gave any promise 'of hold- ng firm. All but Griggs , who thrust one arm through a coil of rope about ; he mast , and stood , pistol in hand , eady for fatal aim at me'should there be an instant of stillness. He had re solved that in any case I should not escape him. Our last glance showed this before the ship seemed to rise erect upon her "stern , to poise herself n mid-air , and to plunge down un- athomable depths. A raging cataract swept over us , it roared in our ears , drenched and deafened us , beat us against the deck , and almost swept us from the supports to which we clung. The vessel shook like a leaf in ; he whirlwind , staggered and plunged until I thought she was going straight to the bottom. Then as the deluge rolled off from the deck and we sprang ; o our feet , I saw an awe-struck look on the faces of the sailors , and follow- ng their glances , perceived that Arm- tage's place was vacant. Had Heaven interfered in my behalf ? Jo w could I dare to say so ? All that I can affirm is that at the moment of my extremity a tidal wave on its way across the ocean had swept my first niate into the sea. The sailors , how ever , had no doubt. To their super- stiti ons Heavenhad fought for me , and they respected me accordingly. "It is a strange story , " said the cap tain as he finished , "but if you want something rational and probablejust get somebody to make it up for you. " The Severn tunnel in England , four miles and a half long , has just been opened. The distance was made by ive carriages in IS minutes. It can ' scarcely be'calied one of the great tun nels. These are Mount Cenis , other wise Frejus , about eight miles long , which took fourteen years to make ; 5t. Gothard , nine miles long , which : ook eight years to make ; and the re cently finished ( September , 1884) ) Arl- burg , about six miles long , which took ony ) two years to make. I Another Sermon. The Salvation Army has' tieen liold- mg forth jn Aurora for tlio pastr week , more or less , us tlio case may be. It is not definitely settled how many .sbulg tlio army has thus far\snatcb.eil from tbe. burning , but it is certain lliat their'emotional style of presenting the cause has incited some of the hearers to get up and pa.w the air , and , act as thougli they had been eating green fruit. fruit.We We do not wish to cast any reflec tion on religion , but we do not think this vehement kind is doublo souled , and with a row of nailsion. the'out side of the heel. That is , wo do not think it wears well. The kind of con version that is the result of sober re flection and reasoning is that which all can respect and approve of. And those who experience it by a process of logical thought will stick , and set examples that will do good , to the' cause. People of this kind are those who help to build up the churches , and who show that religion cau enter their every day life and prove service able. That is tlio kind of a Christian we wish to be. Wo know wo are a sinner of no moan dimensions , but we caimot bo converted by the exclamatory utter ances of a gang of young girls and "flip" boys , who sing bad rhymes set to plantation melodies , and who stand ' up'beforo tiioso who are looking tor tlio light and make tlio cause appear ridiculous. Of course , this kind of a thing takes with some. Old man What's-his- name and Sister So-and-so , who aro , always on the front seat when there is a chance .to take a hand m anything of an emotional character , will get up and prance about , and shout at the , top of their lungs. But they cool' down as soon as the meetings aro over , and forget all about them. They aro no better for their rantings. It is not religion they have. They get too much steam in their boilers , anil such ail'airs give them a chance to blow off. Wo can remember the oltl-fashioiied revivals we used to have in the little ) church way down East. Every win " ter some sensational exhorter"would appear and the town would turn out , and whoop and howl , and be saved. Bill Johnson and Tom Copp , Sarah Jones and Kate Ketchuui , and all the rest of them , would jro forward and , kneel at the bench. They would near ly scare the life out of the children by their contortions and wild hoots. They thought they were saved , and the whole "town rejoiced. After the meeting was through , and the smell of brimstone was cleared away , Bill Johnson anil Tom Copp continued to hang about the bar-room , and swear and light as of yore , and Sarah Jones and Ivato Ketchuui went to dances , and made food for talk at the quilting bees , anil all tlie rest of the converted proceeded to bacic-stlide , wihoufc put ting on any brakes , or improving spir itually. The intention of the Salvation Army is , of course , good and proper , but tlio kind of religious intoxication which they deal out dissipates the subject , and loaves him with a swol len head and red eyes , and the con viction that ho lias been living on a wind pudding that has not nourished his soul or improved his ways. If you fcol that yon aro a sinner , and want to become a genuin Christian , go and listen to reason and sound ar ' gument ; improve m your out-of- church , week-day life ; do not do these little wrong and dishonest things , which passion and avarice may die-1 tate ; be charitable , honest and hu mane ; join tlie ranks of those who ap- , pear to have an earnest and enduring' purpose for good ; believe what j'onr reason will assist yon in believing ; try to point out the risjlit way to others , and you will reach salvation by as sure a route as that denoted by the Salvation Army. You may bu a trifle " onger on the"way , but you will be ! ully as sure to get there. You will " ilso ieel that you" have worked your , jassage , instead of trying to blult four way with a w.inil solo , Aurora lade. John Henry in Disgrace. "You , John Henry , " said a Ilalstod street woman to her belated spouse , 'where have you been , and what havo you been doing ? " "Boon haviu' time. " "Been having a time ! Didn't you mow that I was hero alone ? What's to prevent burirlars from breaking in- ; o tlio house and carrying off overy- : hiug we've got , and not a man on the mmiises ? Been having a time , eh ? You'll have another time right here if you don't take to getting home car- ier. Now you go around and see if the house is properly locked up. and don't bo all night where are you go ng , John Henry ? " "Goin' to lock up housli up , m1 dear. " "Don't you leave this room , John EEonryHow do I know but there's a aurglar under this bed right now ? If iron wouldn't bo carousing around at all lours of the night and cominir home drunk you might have these matters attended to before now. What are pou standing there for ? Why don't fou go and see if the house is" locked up ? " " 1 can't be in two plaislies at onsh , m' dear. If theresh burglar under jed no usho to lock liousli. It housli ocked no ushe fur burglar under bed. Slice ? " "That's just like a drunken idiot. Jock under the bed first , and then at tend to the rest of the house. " John Henry crawled under the bed and found a cat , which lie caughtby , ho posterior elongation , or words to ; hat ctlecfc. To this the cat set up : i demurrer , and proceeded to show cause why tlio same should bo sus- : ained , which so frightened Mrs. John 3enry that sbe sprang out of bed just is John Henry backed out from under t , and in his effort to rise be threw her igainst the wash stand , upsetting it ind. smashing tno pitcher. Sbe screamed , he swore and tho cat squalled , and now tlio neighbors say : bat John Henry ought to bo put in [ ail for tbe manner in which lie abuses iis wife , and her a timid little lliing , too. GoodalVs Daily Sun. A Nevada rancher snnrcd two hundred rabils in ten dnys without sensibly diminish- lr the hordes that ravage his farm. A STUDY IN COSTUMES , Jennie June Expresses Her Opinion About Modern "Fashion" And Gives Some Ideas of Art as Applied to Dress. The Cashmere , Greek , Ancient Greek and Graduate Costumes as Applied to the Art of Dressing To-day. Special Correspondence. NEW YORK , November 1L The faults in dress and the absence of that freedom and diversity necessary to the develop ment and cultivation of taste seem to arise principally from the acceptance by women of incompetent authorities and the failure to apply to dress the sense and intelligence usually brought to bear on other subjects. It has become a sort of axiom tiat : deviation from "fashion" whatever that may happen at the moment to be must be ugly and un becoming , and beautiful dress , like healthful food , wholesome perhaps , but not in the least agreeable. It does not seem to strike the de vout worshipper of "novelties" and "latest ideas" that increased change cannot always be in the right direction , or that the "style , " which merely represents the trick of the mo ment , can have no necessary or true relation to personal elegance and good taste. Both the merits and defects of our mode of dressing are more conspicuous in this country than in others , because the Jollowerc of fashion arc more numerous , more money to spend upon dress , and the distribution of prevailing ideas more ceneral. It is not means or resources that are lacking , simply knowledge of princ.- ples , and this Is an acquisition which takes time and implies an education in art Ignor ance of truth in regard to dress is asblissiul as in respect to other things. While a woman Is declared to be "exquisitely" dressed who wears a hcterogenous assortment of colors and "unrelated" forms , that woman will be satisfied witti herself and her methods. Forms heretofore had. nothing to do with fashion. The increase and decrease of artificial humps and excrescences the shoitening and length ening of skirts , sleeves and bodices the drawing In or inflation , have all been con ducted on purely arbitrary principles without any reference to truth in art or nature. The imbecility of it all. looked at from an abstract point of view , is more than funny , it is pitia ble. Why a woman scnsib'e on all other points should ask anxiously if she must wear a "bustle" or do any other one of the dozen things that f.ishi-n o'dams to day that it did not erdniu yesterday , would be mcrcd ble if it were not common. The false standard set up leads c\eiy one astmy. If u gown is in the reigning mode it is "stylish , " if it is of costly material it. is "beautiful" or "elegant , " and. the wearer is "magnificently" dressed , not common. But thenTis hope for the future. American women are leginning to study form , and when they have once discovered the secret of true beauty and grace they will be quick to apply it. Heretofore , like arithmetic learned at school , they did not think of apply ing art to everyday lif. ; , but even lcs = ons are taking rratt'cal shapes and the latest studio idea , tnat of the "cosiumecl.iss , " will perhaps suggest the Jine npon which improvement must begin that of nature , not caricature. CASHMERE COSTU3IE. Here is a study of a walking costume in cash mere which is very simple , yet very charming , almost perfect in its grace of outline and free- liomfrom all co.iventonal restraintsuch as paiis , tie-backs , steel bars and other encum brances. It is a copv of one of Liberty's wn- tcr-coh r designs , and is made in two shades of Umritza cashmere , or any other soft , self-col ored all wool material. Brown and ecru two shades of gr.iy , currant red and dark grren or parnet and fawn go well together. The red in cither case , the brown and the darker of this ur.iys beinsr used for the s'drt ' , which should be laid in fiue knife plaits. The overdress is Bmock-shaped _ , but rather narrow , ths fulness , what there is of it , which is only just cnouih for easu over the i-nlanri-d portion of the body , being gathered into the honey-combed shirring at the throat , and more slightly pulled in at the waist , under the soft sash , which holds it without any gathering string and admits of its being drawn up to Ihe Je t side , where it opens and falls In a series of draped folds. The on ly shaping is under the arms. The armholes are lelt nearly straight , so that the arms move with ease and freedom and give abundant space to the sleeves , which are a modification of the old tleg-of-mutton" and may be tacked here and there to an Inner lining or to tapes attached to the inside of the lower part of the arm and to the top of the s-houlder. The shap ing of the lower part of the sleeve can he seen bv the position of the left arm , which is turn ed so that the hand touches the bodice. The hat matches exactly the upper part of the dress , the bunch of feathers the tint of the skirt. GREEK COSTUM3. This costume Is the adaption made from the pure Greek dress bv Mrs. Emily Pffelfc , the author of the "Lady of the Rock , " "Fly ing J > aves , " &c. , and a well known figure In London literary and artistic society. The pe culiar and very graceful style of costume she has adapted to all her needs , and some years ago illustrated in a series of articles In a Lon don periodical. Last year Mrs. Pflelfer with her husband , also and author and a musiciau of ability , though an nmeteur , visited this " country , and many will recall the tall , grace ful flgurj In Us lovely drapery of while and gold or pale yellow with embroidery of Pompeian red , or the quieter olives wrought In leaf tints , which characterized her everyday attire. There was nothing so absolutely differ ent in this dresss as to attract attention ; tt was only conspicuous from its soft flowing lines and the absence of the usual humps and high contrasts. Theunderdress of this costume Is fin abso lutely plain , straight morning gown , which may have an upright tucked bodice ( the tucks very fine ) If the wearer Is thin , but Is other wise shaped under the arm and gathered into the belt , or it may be cut all in one and a belt arranged simply to mark the line of the waist. The drapery needs no cutting , it may be ar ranged irom a shawl or a square of any soft , double-width material , nun's veiling , cheese cloth , fine wool , silk or lace. The embroidery is easily and quickly done in outline stitch in one or two colors or two shades of tl/e same color , but It Is better to use only one color , unless two colors or two shades can be so judiciously used as toproJuce a good result , and this can be attained by knowledge end ex perience only not by direction through a med ium so liable to misconstruction as words. It should be understood from the beg'nning that all colors used in art costumes are soft and possess depth rather than surface color , so that thev adapt themselves readily one to an other. The original of the Greekrdress .was made in Tussore silk , In its well known deli cate ecru or stone-colored tint ; and the em broidery in flame color , which has a lambent quality , not in the least like the brick red , which is often called by its name. The corners of the drapery are united together on the ehoulders with clasps of inwrought stone , or metal , and the rusbings are of the silk , feath ered upon the edge , or of embroidered lace. ANCIENT GREEK COSTUME The design from the undent Greek , it will be seen , is a modification and combination of of the other two , with features of its own that are different from either. The foundation dress is very much the same as in Mrs. Pffe t- er's Greek gown , except that being made in print and for ordinary use the sleeves are cut to the wrist. The overdress is hollonel a , little at the neck , front and back , but other wise gathered in at the w.u'st ( only with more fulness ) exactly like the "CasUinere Costume" excepting that the drapery is lifted some what to the rit > ht of the opening and held by the clasp at the belt. The body part is a'so cut in more to the arm , the sleeves being less full and requiring less space. The material of the overdress is what is known in London as Arabian cotton. It has a natura ly crinkled or crepy surface , irregularly ridged and falling in very close and graceful folds. It was used by Miss Anderson lor her Galatea dress , de signed by a London artist , and proved more amenable to artistic nquirements than the China crepe at § 10 pyr yard which she Jiad previously employed The skirt of the under- dress may be gathered or pl'-ated , ( understand pleated not pl.iited ) , for plait was formerly only used in the sense of braiding or weaving together , and is not properly applied to straight folds ; but gathering in more suitable for figured prints , such as that of which this skirt'is made , as .t does not conceal any part oT the pattern and is more easily laundrfed. These costumes are all that would be called Esthetic , yet they are beautiful , graceful , sim ple , convenient , and easily adapted to different uses. They are also , especially the castimere costume , so nearly liko the modes of to-day that with proper treatment , they could be worn as they are , and have been , without exciting unusual attention. But one of the reasons why this can be done is because conventional fashion , whiie sneering , reviling ana ridiculing the aesthetic idea , has stolen its thunder and incorporated itin , fragments and without unity , into its changing and capn'cous repertoire of themodes. Ithns done this in self-defence and because it was demanded. Ideas are scarce in a conventional atmosphere , and the aesthetics had an idea to begin with several of them and they dressed themselves to the taste and common sense of thinking , intelligent women. The extravagances of unt.iinkingand senseless followers who endeavor to gain notoriety by exaggeration undoubtedly disgusted them , but underlying all this they could not but discover an adaptability to lovely forms and simple ma terials , which wai better than mere cost , so long the test of taste and elegance , and a sin cerity which is an essential elf ment of morality in dress as well as in the qualities of mind and heart Tims , whatever may be said of it , it will be found eventually that the so-called aesthetic element Is the truest and most Im portant contribution made to the ethics of dress in this generation , and the one that will exercise the most decisive influence upon the future. PRINCESS OF WALES IX CAP AND GOVTS. ' The eagerness with which a new idea la seized If it comes from an authoritive source 13 seen in the effort to utilize this sensation created by the appearance of the Princess of Wales in the dress of the uraduates upon whom a degree Is conferred at the College ol Music In Dublin. Upon the occasion of tha visit of her Royal Highness In honorary de gree was conferred upon her and she was form ally Invested In the cap and gown , whlci proved very becoming , for tnough no longer very young and strikingly bcautiuil , she pos- scssesses an interesting and expressive face , which retains its charms and even gains some- thlngwlth Increasing age Irom the exercise of , a lovely disposition. The gown and cap are practically iht same ! as those worn at Oxlord , and the formal In- vestment of the Princess of Wales , her will- Ingness to wear the costume as a sign ol her fellowshipwith the body , settled lorever the mooted question of propriety , so far as women graduates are concerned , and made the.cap and gown the badge of studeut graduaua.wituout reference to sex. \ The gown that Is usually worn Is Slack. In this Instance It was of red satin damask , Iraqi , . with satin and faced with velvet. Above thoj * straight high collar are three folds of soft * crepe de chine and the pin Is a diamond lyre , w tu fine , twisted gold strings. The cap is "mortar-board " and has' commonly called the - , been the subject of campoons Innumerable , ! but It Is suddenly discovered to be very strlk- ; Ing and picturesque , nnd English milliners are. employing it or n modification of it extensive ly for misses and lit le girls. The "gown" Is In effect the "surplice" of the Church of Eng- land. Its feature Is the high-set , rather full flowing sleeve the top of which almost joins the collar and the seam of which is on the outside , where it 1 * made slightly full as well- as wide and flowing Instead of under the arms. The rest of it is simply a Iong , straight eacquo shaped under the arms , on the aboulder * , and with a gathering or Watteau pleat In the back , wh'ch flows out from the figure and it is noc fastened down. A word here may not be out of place in regard to the adoption of the En glish word "gown , " instead of "diess , " as commonly used In this country. Like much other adopted phraseology , it is both well-used and miss-used. It is a great mistake to sup pose that it Is used by all of those , who do use It "simplv because it i English , don't you know ? " It has the positive merit of correct ness and good usase to justify It. When a "dress" is made all in one piece from neck to feet it is a "gown ; " formerly , when cut at the waist , it was a "frock. " It is wrestling dress from Its original meaning , which was generic and inclusive , to limit it to the upper garment which completes a woman's dress. The mod ern dress vocabulary contains French words which have become naturalized. Why not "English , " wh ch Is our mother tongue ? We use costume nnd toilet witnont a sneer and without ref'-rring to where they came from. 'Why ' not gown , which is needed to designate the long garment for which we have no name sxcept the Incorrect and inexpressive one of iress ? It would be a real advantage to the public , indsave much con'usioB. as well as eternal it- sration and explanations , if tiie proper word ; ould be app ied to the thing in woman's dress as in garments worn by men for ex ample. We tcok tha word toilette ( tni-Iet ) from the French , and now we ca'.l It indiscrim inately , toilette , or toilet. . This latt word is not proper y employed , it is forced from its correct usaue whm st is made to mean only a p irt of itself. A French-woman will speak of ovikingher toilet for the evening , but she uses the word In its generic sense , her toilette , forming part of her toilet ; and so well is this understood outside of fashions and fashion writing that the article of furniture In a lady's' flrejsing room which contains the toilet acces sories and appurtenances is known as the "to let" table or "toilet" bureau. It is getting ; to be pretty well understood now that ' 'cos tume" means all the outside parts of a walking ; antfit composed of a combina IDII of materials ; while ii "suit" means the same composed .of one material. Suit and costume are more or less "complete" as they are made to include jacket , bonnet , muff or the r equivalents. Children are much more naturally , as well as more beautifully , dressed now than of late years , or any time since they were made the copies in miniature of the follies of their eld- srs. This change we owe partly to the wider distribution of knowledge of physiological1 law , partly to the advance all along * he line' of practical ethics , and partly to the modern art and aesthetic element as applied to the dress of chi dren as well as women. A cos- Y GIRLS COSTUME. tume in two shades , or two colors , of cash mere for a girl is copied from one of Libertv'a designs , and is adapted to a girl of from four teen to sixteen that diflicult age to deal with , when girls approach the woman without havinz parted from tiie child. The design consist of a square-cut , sleeveless tunlcshap"ed in to the wain and drawn up to the lef c side in natural folds over the skirt of the frock , which may be plain , tucked , or trimmed with rows of velvet. The shirring at the throat and upon the sleeves is done in honeycomb pattern , with Kensington wool , in Kensington stitch , or the ordinary shirring may be over laid with herring bone stitch in wool , in a different shade , or a contrasting color. In this case the design may be rendered more com plete by trimming tbe skirt with five rows of velvet , spaced between , and put on with her ring bone stitch in wool upon the upper and lower edges. For younger gins , say of ten and twelve vears , an adaptation has been made of the carters' "smock frock. " a shape less carment , made ful , with full sleeves , gathered in at the top and at Ihe neck , and honeycombed with strons linen thread in a by no means Inartistic fashion , by the poor woman of the agricultural districts. Soft daintv , ma'erials , pretty sh idlngs an'd con trasts o * color and a more decoratins effect In the honeycombing at the throat and upon the top of tlie sleeves , transformed this one despised garment into a picturesque frock , the soft folds of a fine wool or silken sash adding the effect of drapery to the straight , simple folds of the skirt At ten and twelve a girl has no shape , and the awkwardness of a waist which measures more inches than ths width around the shoulder ? is made painfully con spicuous by a fitted frock or elaborate cos- tames ; the gathere I "gmock frock , " on tbe contrary , gives her ease and displays the grace of frte , untrammelled movement , while it is readily ad-ipted to her increasing growth A conventionalized costume adapted from the Russian for a girl of twelve is effecti but requires a rather slend r and nat graceful ficure. It is made of silk and gold and wine color , red and black , or a j.ce- Iui sha le of blue with dark green. The un- derJress of t e bright shsUe In silk , the bands of the same , covered with diamonds , in nar row black , dark green or blue cilored velvet. The tunic is of plain velvet in the dark shade. Tnese sketc ies mav suggest to young girls the use of a study of form , as it relates tT the pr.-ictical worker"provM.ng covering for it Jfc and not only the economy but the opportunity * forthe xecise and development of ait'stic * " taste in becoming the'rowii dressmakers. One of the most valuable idea ? to be derived from tbe study of art and from the dress of tbe aes thetic school Is the folly and impropr.'etv of supe fluous ornament of trimminthat haa no purpose and no relation to the article it Ij Intende.1 to adorn. ThU one idea well im pressed upon the minds of oar younsr women would moralize their dress and exercise a ben- cficial Influence upon our entire soc al and domestic life JENNIE JOSE.