. . . . . . . .
ON THE TRAIL OF THE
AMERICAN MISSIONARY .
ByVILLIAM ; T. ELLIS
"II Dist/nllutshed / Amerlr.an Journllllst Is Trllvl'lInll Around the World lor
the Purpose ollnvesUlllltJnlf the AmorlcAn Foreln Missionary from
II Purely Disinterested. "r.II"\lAnd rlon'Sed/Hlan / Standpoint.
IllustrAted with DrAwlnll' lII1d from Photor.raphs.
No "l < .nockers" at Mission .
in the Philippine Islands
_ Ir !
V17
,
1\Innlln , P. t.-"Thl'rt' nrt' no l\IIocle.
( 'rs nt mlsdonarles In the 1'hllll.plne8. . "
'l'h\111 a 1\Imlln newspnpm' 1I1UIl col.
IUlIlally ( } dlngnosctl the ml8slonnry .
IJltuutJon In the Islands , My own In. :
\I llgatlolJs vOI'lfied thlA uplnlon : the I
l'I'ltlC'lsm ot missions riml mIssionaries I
whldl Is so general In the part cltlcs
of lhe far enst Is consplclIOlHI for its
IIl1sl'nco In Mnnlla. 'rho mlsslolJarles
appcar to bo on the best of terl\1s with
( ' \(1I' 'bodr , frol11 the guvernOl' seneral
down ,
One of the most popular dinner
dubs In the cll ' Is the QIIIll clllb , to
which most of the llromlnent men In
Mnnlla beloug , and which wns organ.
Iwd b ' two mhlllonarlfl ! . Nol \lnUl
the recent visit of Dr. Charles Cllth.
IIl'l't Hall and Sccretar ' Lloyd , of the
Protl'stant ElllscOIJnI board when they
wOl'e guests of the club , was any thin/ / :
IIko a rellglolls topic o\'en treated In
the nHer dinner speeches. 'I'hls Sllg.
! ; C'sts a notable fact abolll the Philip.
I
IJaIl' , mlsslopnrles. The man II' not
swnl10wed II } ) In the minister. So fnr I
.
na I met them personnlly , I founll tho.
mlsslollarles sharing the chat'nctor.
laUra of most of the othcr Amorlcnns
111 the Islnnds : strunguonslblo ,
f 'l1Imctt'lcnl men , serlulIsly clIgngel
111 the business oC making the bestna.
tlon Ilossible out of the Filipinos.
Catho lIe.Protestant N elghborllneso.
IlItlslI1uch an the HO\l1l\n Cnthollc
chlln'h hns been III the Islands fOl' 300
- -
tht' ! ! 1I11erlorlly oC the Flllliino to the
AtJlntlc-anrl ho undollbtedly Is nu.
porlor to , JnlllLnolC , Chlncsc , Malay or
( ndlan-Is dllo to the civilizing Inl1u.
ence of the Homan Catholic church.
Thllt the United Slntes has been nblo
t do moro for the Islnnds pulltlcnllY
In less thlln ten years thnn Great
Dl'ltaln hns done for India In n hUll'
drml 'ears , mllst largely he credltl ( :
to the church' that brought the FII. I
Illln08 ollt of savagery.
" 'Itl : the abllses thnt crept Into the
church In the Islands this nrtlclo Is
not concerned : but It must bo IJolnttd
out thnt It was not ngnlnst the Amerl.
can t 'po of Homan Catholicism that
the Filipinos revoltml. On all sides It
Is agreed that the church In the
Islauds should bo brought uv to the
Amorlcan standnrd. COlloornlDI : the
handful oC American prlcsts who hnvo
gene to the Phlllll1'lnos , I henrd only
pralso , Crom lonslgnor Agius down to
the cfvllhm "man of the stroot" There
III ! ; ronl need Cor moro.
Fnlllng this , the church nuthorltles
look with , most hOIJeClllnoss to the
IJresont movement for the educntfon
of J'0\1I1g Filipinos to the prlesthoOlI
In the Unltml States. Laclt of suit.
nblo priests Is the chief need of the
church In the Islnmls , In order to
remedy comlllfons which cnnnot exist
In the light oC the Increllslnsly.clrcu.
Illled neWUlnpors , , of wldesproad pop.
ular edllcatlon , and of a steadily gl'OW'
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
; : - : : :
. harles M. Alexander In Manila. Mrs. Alexander Is Standing at ca
" < 'arB , and most of the natlvos al'O , at
It.ast nomlnall ) ' , members of thnt com.
munloll , I expccted to find bitterness
and flcrlmony between the Roman
Catholics unit the Protestnnts. Dut
this Is not the case , and for two rea.
sons. The first Is that the Protestant
mlsslonarlcs hnvo worked with tact
mul quietness and Itn.vo endeavored to
avoid arousing antngonlsms and soc.
tarln11 bitterness.
The second is that the old church
organlmtton has its hands fu11 with
the Agllpn ' schism , which claims not
: onlr more than 2,000,000 adherents ,
but also a largo part of the church
propertJ. In the islands , 'l'hls quos.
tion Is noW being fought out In the
courts. In the meantime , the two
wings of Catholicism me manifesting
.no lIttle bitterness toward ellch othor.
'Archblshop Agius , the Apostolic dQle-
gatt' , could not find terms with which
to characterlzo AgllpllY , when I
bronched the matter to hln .
And from what I could ascertain I
QUSIJccl thnt ho Is pretty nenrly cor.
rect In TCgnrlUug Agllpay us a selfish
schemer , an oPllorlunlst , nnd a poll.
tlclnn. Agllpar , who 1'0130 to power
on the tldo of OPIJosltion to the friars ,
merel ) ' represents the idea of revolt
3galnst old and evJl conditions. lIe
seems to stI1nd for nothlng-or rather
for anything and cver 'thlng-In a
theological way ; in ono district ho
Ilroresses himself us steadfastly devoted -
voted to all the historic teachings and
practlceo of Rome ; In another , ho Is
prnctfcal1Y n Protestant , attucking
church rites anll dlstrlbntlng Dfblos.
So bitter Is the strlfo between the
Roman CaUlollcs and the AgllIJllyans
that nelthor pays much attention to
the Protestants , who go unmolested
on their way , adding great numbers
to the ProteBtant churches. Many recruits -
cruits , I am tuhl , como to the missionaries -
sionaries tram the J lpaynn fold ,
h:1\'lng discovered the unsatflfactory ,
condition of the lattor. Not a few ot
the earliest adherents of the Pro.
testant mlsslonarlcR became such
from po1fUcal moUves : an'Ullng to
show rcbeUfon a alnst the Spnnlsh
friars. Manylcf these early fell aw y ,
lIut 60mo have become IntoUfgent
workers In the Protestant churches.
Good Words for the Filipino.
A fl1rther word should bo written
concern\ltg UIO Roman Catholic churcll
In the lell1ndl5 , bof ro IJnsslng on te
the dlstlnctivoly mlllslQlary propn. .
canda. . . . It Is . to ho bOl'no In mind thaI
. .
. . . . _ . . . . .
I
Ing Amorlcan spirit. Next comes the
need for the rehabllltntion of church
edifices , which are still In n ruinous
condition , us a result of the wnr. Ap.
lll\rently none of the money 11l\Id by
the Amel'lcan government to lho frlarf
for their lands 10 bolng used for the
churches In the Islands.
Looking Out for the American.
A peculiar slluntlon was created h :
Manila by the advent of BO 1I11ln
American men , mostly Protestants. Ir
bohal [ of these , churches have beO !
e tabllshed In Manila by the Presb '
terlans , Protestant 1'plscopallans ' :
Mothodlsts and Disciples. All 01
these are centers of vigorous rellglom
lulluences. DI' . S. D. Hossltor , tlu
Presb 'terlan 111BtOl' , hils won for him
Bel [ nn envlablo place In the lIre 0
Manila , und BIshop Drent , of the gills
copal church , Is b ' all clasacs regard
till as ono of the great 1I10n of th4
Islands. ' 1'ho Methodist lllLstor Is I
'oung man und now.comor , but tilt
church Is a popular ono. r. 1101110
Stunz's retul'll to the states becausl
of Illness removed a forceful person
ality from the Philippines. The Epls
cOl1l\IIans have lJuflt St. Mary'a anI
St. John's cathCllrnl , the nnest 111011
ern eccleslastlcnl structure In Manila
An adjunct of this la the Columbll
club , a handsomely oqulpped club
house , run on IIboral and gcntlemunl ;
lines by the members , and hnvlnl
ntJout It no taint of 11l\ll'onago 01' th ,
elcomosynar ' spirit. Its 1I10mbor
arc men from nll wulks In lIro. It dll
fers Crom pthcr hlghgrado club
chlon ' In that Gambling and drlnldn
are tnbooed. Altogether It Is b ' fa
the most succcssful Institution of th
60rt I have ever soon.
BIshop Dront hns 15 workl'rs assl
elated with him , Illid aOf\'lcl's fo
, \ morlcans are malntnhlOtl In seven
I.laces. . 'rho distinctively mllmlonllr :
wOl'I ; : of the church hns been all\101
whollr confined to the lIon.Chrlstl ! !
tribes.
For Manila's Men ,
Some Interesting statistics concorl
InJ ; the Amorlcan men In 1\lnnlla wel
recently sathered lJy the Young Men
Christian association. Of the 3'U
, American 'O\lIIg mon In Manila. 83 1
cent. nl'o unmarrlnd. or the tOtl
nmnbor , 3fll have Filipino wl\'os (
I lIve with FllIlllno won\on. 'rho ethel
I j are dlstrlbutoll as folloWB : Plvo lii1
drell nnd I1I.ty.f1\o nro living !
. ! Aml'rlC'Rn Immcs127 : are 1I\'lng !
: i meslioa : Slt : 1\1'0 rO\lmlnl . ' ! ; . In FlllpI , [
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,
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. . . .
lall1ll1'n ; 203 are living In boteln :
Sr : ! 1\1'0 101l1l0rs ! ; 61 are In Dl1Ihld
prison.
AIJIJI\rently , the nverngo Amerlcnn
does not find the almoslhero [ of the
Islands cCJllduclvo to church going. A
COllnt wns made , upon a recent Sun.
dny , of all the Amorlcan mon In at :
tondnnce upon the city's 20 ehurchos ,
Homan Catholic Ulld Prolestunt , and
the u Jrcv.ate number was found to
he 411i. At the Columbia club were 81
and nt the Lunotn sacred concert were
3JG. ! Ovcr ngllinst these 89 : ! ( among
whom were doubtless mnny dupll.
catcH ) who were under religious or
"wholesomo" Infiuences , may ho placod.1
the count of IGnG In attendance upon
baseball games , races , etc. At two
ulmllar reRorts where the count could
not lJo made , the estfmaled numbur
wns 2tiO more.
'I'hls docs not mean that Malliln fp
nn Immoral city : In truth , I war
amazed at the quietness nnd orderll-
ncss of It , nnd ut the manlfostly high
churactel' of the peoplo. So far as I
cuuld 1\0certl\llI , the attaclcs upon lho
morallt . of Amerlcnlls In the Philip ,
pines have been cruel exaggoratlons.
Whllo they upparently do not lenn
strongly to church.goluS , the men of
Manlln. J'ct mnnlfest an alert Into rest
In the moral welfare of the city. The
project to bullll n hundred thousand
dollar Young 1\1en's Christian assocla.
tlOII building , with lodglnss for n hun.
dred men , was made a civic matter , ;
I
and [ JIIshed through onthuslastlcally. I
The y , 1\1. \ C. A. , by the way , WM tha !
first Proteotant agency at work In the I
Islands , nnd Its splendid servlco for i
the soldiers , now supplemented by I
work for civilians , has continued to
this day , wInnIng warmeat 11Jrniso In I
all quartcrs.
Churcheo Get Together. I
The first outatnndlns fnct concorn.
Ing the dlstlnctlvoly mlnslonnry work
of the Islands by the Protestant
churches Is the plan of cooperation
which was lately ndopted. Profiting
by the experlenco of other mf'sslon
fields , the donomlnntlons early got
together to apportion. the territory , so !
that dUllllcation and conflict might bo
a\'olded. In order also to present n
IInlted front for Protestantism , n com.
mon name , "Evangelical churches , "
was adopted , In place of the varied
antI confnslng denominational appol.
lations , From the I1rst there hns been
sllbstantlal unity and cooporatlon
nmons the mlnslonarles ; who are , as
already Indicated , n superior body of
sonslble , capable men , I
In the divIsion of the IsInnds among
the denominations , the Methodists
have the greater part of Luzon , north
of 1\1anlla \ , and the Presbytorlans the
southel'll portlou of the same 1 land as
well as four ether Islands. The Dls.
clples of Chrlsl also have four Btn.
tfons In the most 1I0rlherly pnrt of
Luzon. Since 1900 the Daptlsts have
occupied Negros , northern and souen-
ern Panay and the Island of Romblon ,
with 17 missionarIes and 17 natl\'o
congregntlons , Congregationalists are
located on the Island of Mindanao ,
whCl'o they work In close coopor"tloll
with the PreGb 'torlans , 'l'ho Episcopalians -
palians have a work for the pag-an
Igorrotes , and also for the Chinese , I
Methodists lIItowlso have n mission I
among the Chlneso. The UnIted. .
Bl'ethren al'o strongly established I
abont San li'ernando , Spiritualists and
cilrlslfan Scientists have work In
lnnlla.
'rho totnl Protestant memborshlp of
the Islands , reported to the Evangell.
cal Union Inst } 'ellr , was 15,000 , ex-
cluslvo of 10,000 probationers record.
cd In the Methodist church. The Inst.
, I
named bed ) ' Is wItnessIng nn oxtrnor. ;
dlnnry growth ; with only nine
Americans engaged In the Fllfliino
I work-It now reports , according to
! Rev. M. A. Hader , presiding ehlor , no
less than 18,000 members , Including
probationers. A curious fact about Its
I congregations , and these of the other
missions , Is that two.thlrds of thom
I nro men , and of this 11umber three-
I quarters are } 'oung men. There nro
. : :00 : licensed natlvo workers In the
, Methot1fat church , only n few of whom
recelvo any finnncial asslstanco. 'l'hls
clmrncterlstlc uf Independence and
seU.support runs through all the
. Protestnnt mIssions. 'rho real buhe
of their chur.ches throu hout the
Islands Ims bcen lJullt lJ ' the natives
UlOl\1selfes ,
l ducatlonnl and eleemosynary of.
fo'l ) on tl10lfIrt of the missions In.
.
cludes the Presb .terlan hospitals nt
110110 und DCl\1agueto and the Silliman
hltlustrllll Instltuto for Doys at the
latter lllaco , the Protestnnt EIJlscopal
Dispensary and Sottlom nt House In
Manila , the Methodist hospltlll and
schuols , the Jaro lIulllstrlal achool or
I. the lluptIsts with nbout 300 students
11 and various training schools for na :
tlvo worlccrs and periodical rollglous
IJllbllcutions malntalnod by the dlt.
tet'ont denominations.
( Cop'rlght , b ) ' Joscph B , Bowlcs , )
Saloons for Women.
" \\'hen ! WIHI In Borlln , " said n
clo'g ) 'lIIan , " I had onollgh curiosity to
visit oue of the peculiar ualoona for
wOll1on thnt. ther huvo there. 'l'ho
place Interustcd me , und I am bound
to Imy that It was decentlr conductod.
Berlin hi the only clt ) . In the world
that hus these InstItutlol\s. In our
countr ' , where the women are nearly
nll teetotalers , wo don't need them. In
England they don'lneod them becauslJ
EnlI1h ! ! wOlllen of the lower classes
enter the pUblic houses nnd lean
against the bill' and s\p \ their boer
with as much nonchalance ne Uloh
husbands.
"In this female saloon In Borll ! '
about 25 Cemales were gaUlored. 1'ho
luolced 11001' , but rrslloctablo. Some
were smoklnclgarottet1 and clgaff
-somo relld the Impors , unll In n cor
ner 1lIlUo Jrollil : urgued noisily o\'el
an nrtlclo In 11 fashion nmgazlno
nmcl1 ns mcn anmo In their own sn
' . .
1001\5 , oYJr. ! . PQII ! 9 ' " , . . , ' , . ' . .
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FROG FOUND IN ROCK POCKET ,
May Do ao Much as Three Hundred
Years Old ,
New Yorlt.-Uecalled to lIfo nfter
Iosslbly , three conturlos of Innocuous
desuetude In the rocle.rlblJed enrth ,
Itamoses I. , nn unclent and npparontly
ostlmnblo tOlld , now reposes In a 1'0'
tund jnr on the del ! : rJf Dr. Dllmnr ,
curator of the Bronx Zoologlcril parle ,
and probably will be the subject of
lI1uch Interostlng scientific Inquiry.
As might be mqJ ctml for ono or his
IIg0 , who was virtually dead for so
long without Imowlng It , H.1Inoses Is n
trlflo near.slghted nnd somowhnt deaC ,
hut otherwlso he 5eems to bo hea1l1I } ' ,
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, - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - -
Frog Found In Rock In Montana.
and he wlgglos his feet nnd cars In
qulto an amlnlJle fashion.
Clmrlos Van Zundt , who owns a sll.
\'er mlno near Dutle , Mont. , nnd Ed.
wllrd King , his superintendent , were
slnlclng a shaft seven months ago ,
when UIO ' encountered Rameses , as
ho Is now called , fully 200 feet below
the Hurfllce. Ho was cozily ensconsed
In a ) locltet of rocl ; : , the only crack In
which had been cnused by the mining
operations. It wns that fact that
caused the surprise when they found
the toad wsa Illlve , although exceed-
Ingb' somnolent. Ho was nearly blind
then from having been so long In the
dRrk , h t he WIlS breathing.
Having heard theorlos of suspended
anhnatfon , 1\11' : Vnn Zandt tool Ra-
mesos to his bosom , warmed him up 11.
bit , Ilnd then deposited him In a jar
hermollcally seuled. Ho lcupt him so
uutll a few da 's ngo , when he sent
him on to the Bronx menagerie , havIng -
Ing lJacomo thoroughlr satisfied that
the theory was plausIble.
In the meanUme examination of the
roclt where Hameses was found re.
vealed nothing In the way of n. fissure
that coulll have been made beoro the
slnldng of the shaft , and the belief
Is that the toad crawled Into a crevice
that closed after him , perhllps In lIre.
historic times , at least so far as thIs
countrr is concel'Iled.
Dr. Dltmar sllid that he had Inves.
Ugated the matter and had 110 reason
to dOllbt Its truth.
"Thore arc 110 rUls In the rocJ at
all , " he said. "I1.1Hl It Is woU'Inown ; :
that If a toad crawls Into a darl and
cold IJlace , such ns thnt where he was
found , the ordinary functions o [ )10 )
ma ) ' bec01\10 suspendo\l \ Indefialtel ' .
'l'hls toad wns found several hundred
feet below the surface of the earth ,
and thel'C Is no telling how long ho
ilia ) ' ha vo been there , It might ha vo
been 300 ) 'ears 01' e\'en more. "
NEW BENNINGTON MONUMENT.
Shaft to Sailors Killed In Gunboat Ex.
ploslon Dedicated.
Snn Franclsco-On Januar ' 7 , offi.
cers , sailors and soldiers to the nmn-
bel' o [ several thousand , reJresenting (
the Ilrlllr nnd navy of the United
States , dedicated n bqautlful granite
monument to the members of the 57
of their comrades who were It1lled In
!
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Bennington Monument at San Diego ,
California.
the eXIIoslon ! or the gunhollt Denning-
ton's bolll'\'s In the harbor of San
Diego , Cn ! . , .1I11 ' 21 , 1905.
This monument Is G4 Ccet high and
was OI'ected b ' '
IJOl1ll11ll' sllbscrlJlIon )
on the Illllt of Jround sel IIsldo as the
las resllng lllace of the Bennington
bo 's.
Ilstnnds on lIlt' summit uf pt. Lomll ,
dlrectl . nbove I ol'l Hoaecrans and
overlooks the har of Slln 1)I0go , the
ocenn. IJUl'ts oC Mexico nnd the moun.
lllinouli regions of sou thoi'll ClllICornla ,
'rho unvelllng of this tribute WIlS an
Important mill Iolomn ol'caslol1 , a hol.
Iday ! wlng lJ\"oclalmed In the city oC
San Diego , l' xcllralon tmlnt ! were rUI1
from aU the nelghbol'lnJ ; townll. At
least 7,000 oll1col't ! and lIIon Imrllcl.
patod III the unveiling corl'II10nlel ! ,
Concrete for Viaducts.
Concrete m'ches IU'O IlOlng conBld.
I ercd In BuCfnlo for vlnduct construe.
, ton ! , sn 's Coment. Age , 1l WnK fuulIII
that the metal glrdel'lI used horeto.
fOl'o have become cOl'rllgated II ' the
. gns from 10comotl\'eH , which deus not
nrrecl concroto. It Is the convlclfon
that much mone ' wOllld havu 110011
: savClI hall concrete beOlI nllolltod Ions
ag .
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1 [ ' lln IF IJ I II TITI n ll 1 'W CO ) If n m1 i j , I
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lI I:1.lJV'GlNl ) 117112iVl : B.J1I..L. GOU0T QE : '
60TlJl7 CO'ZENN.E'I
" -I
The American woman Is m03t nlert and enthusiastic , nnd has 11 fine Intuition -
tuition when It comen to matters of dress. Just now she Is busy lookln ! : wIth
a happ ' forethought , after the question or wherowlthal she shaH be clothed.
The Ceatures thllt cannot be overlooked are omlJodled In Innumerable dlfferont ,
designs. ThuB the skeleton bodIce , which roaUy deservea a name moro In
kueplnJ ; with Its dalntlne:3s : , la everywhere In ovldence. It la about all that
Is to bo found In two.plece dresses for Indoor wear. Its U80 proclaims that
the IIngerlo waist will bo needed morning , noon and night.
Princess gowns come In for as much conslderntlon , if not moro , than ever
boCoro. Into man } " of thorn , thQ bretello Idea In the wnlst portion Is Intro-
duced. 'When the entlro gown Is of ono mlltorial or color , n chemlsetto and
lnce cuffs are added In whlto or cream. This touch of white Is the most be.
coming and "Cetchlng" addition that o\'er wns taken up by tile feminine world ,
In the two.pleco snits for the strcet , skIrts are clearIng lengtil or shorter ,
pleated , fitted nbout the hips nnd fiarlng freely from the thigh down.
Whatn1'lty that the great establishments who provIde for every ether need
In the world of women , don't hnve department of Instruction In the wearing
of clothes , or tholr adjustment , at least. The obiJervor Is forced to the conclusion -
clusion that money Is a little worse than thrown' nwny by the womnn who
lavishes It all her appnrol and has no style or carrlago of person , to harmonize - I
monize with her finery. A day or so ago , n girl In n well.tallorod blue cloth
gown entered a street car , and , ns usunl , all eycs clanced at the newcomer. ,
She was not unusually pretty , but all femlnlno eyes did moro than glance her - _ "
way. A seCt little round crowned felt hat was adjusted upon her carefully , "
dressed hnlr , at just the right nngle. A graceful and full cluster of coque f
feathers and a chou of velvet were Its solo trImmIngA muff and scarf of . . .
hlack lynx were worn with a grace which was not marred by a lltllo con.
sclousness or its possession , by the trim , welhgroomed girl. Ono cannot
claim nnything , In such an outfit , to command the very respectful attention at . . ,
women far morc richly dressed. But. by comparison , she was without doubt - ' .
the best dressed woman , In a ver ' well dressed lIttle company. -
Thirty minutes later , n lady preceded the writer on the pavement. She
had a round figure which was to bo envied , entirely spoiled , however. llY n
"aloppy" carrlago. A magnificent fur coat , shapely and ' ell made , enveloped -
veloped her. but It sugg-ested instantly , an Indian's blanket. She cOl dn't ,
have worn it worse , A handsome plumed turban had lost its balance , np-
lIarently , and was hangingon by a hat pin presumablr , reinforced by a veil
tied In a raggOlI lenot at the back. No one looltcd at her twice. She was
, !
not worth while , A woman who Isn't energotlc enough to wear her clothes ,
well , or doesn't know how to , isn't to be envied her l1nory. She would look
better In the most IncoI1s1)lcuous .of belongIngs.
,
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ uu.UUU.Uh _ _ _ _ . . .
, .
Gorgeous Costume Worn
by Par l.iian Beauty
A perfectly plain tailor gown In cloth
Is being thrust aside for only simplest
morning wear , according to a ParIs
letter to Vogue. For afternoon the
tailored costume Is enriched wIth
most elaborate braidings and nllk embroideries -
broideries In self color , the coats beIng -
Ing a mass of handwork , making- the
cost of the costume something fearful
to contemplate. At the races the. . .
other day beautiful Mme. Salvago.
launched II. long tight redlnloto In
baby lamb , its fronts poInted , its sides
slnshed open , while the back breadth ,
only slightly curving Into the waIstline -
line , falls longer ag-aln in cascading
outline , It hns long close sleeves , and
long lines of black silk braId down all
the seams and on all the edges , while
the base of the tails and of the pointed
fronts , as well as bust and sleeve tops ,
are completelr covered wllh heavy ,
highly raised blnl'k silk embroidery
mixed with soutache. On the fronts
and all down the sleo\'e lengths there
wore black sfll < tassels. 'rhls cent was
lined with whllo chiffon shingles , bordered -
dered wit , a pretty l'olorec1 em.
broidery , and It was worn open to
show a pille canarr.colored suede
waistcoat embroidered In colors , nnd a
Ufht.f1tUng , 10l\g cnnnrr.colored CIOUl
nltlrt bordore ( } wIth a band of sable.
Her ha1 wns a tall HUHenot In rough
blllck silk felt with a narrow brim
rolled up ver ' much on one side , the
whole rather big of crown and sitting
low nbout her head , The hat was circled -
cled with n band of sable and at ono
side there was a large black tuft of
nlgrettes , This hat sat a very lIttle
bit back on the hend , showing the on.
circling bmld of hull' which pressed
low about the hend ! lnd ended In a
lJul1ch oC IJutCu on' each sldo of u black
coli.
PARADISE AIGRETTE.
-
-unu . .
For the , ; 11'1 who can lJocomlngh
wenr II. InrJe : hnt 0111' f1Iustratlon pic
tureu II. elH\rmlng model In blnek slltin
t .ced with hyacinth blue satin. Th (
large pnradillo algrotto In s\me colol
blue Is b. autlt ll1r llllCd It blaok.
/r
Long and Graceful
Are the New Skirts
All skirts are now extremely long , \
I and In most cases exceedingly grace-
I CuI In ontllne , but whereas before thIs J
II. willo I1nro about the feet has been
sought after In oven the most supple ' ;
and slinky materials , now al1 ruU1es
and flounces nre done away with , even . ,
the stiff taffeta 110unces on the up1)or
pettlcont beIng abolished. In front the ; .j
hem must lie on the groune ) just ' I
enough to malee It 1)06slblo to walk
without stepping on the mn.terlal , i
while on the sides some inches have
been added to the accepted lentth or
.
Inst year , and In the bnck , too , the
q
train Is a decided feature of the skIrt.
Naturnlly , when all m\lst bo done to \
glvo height and slenderness to the
.
figure , raids , tucles , plaits , ruffies nnd
fiounces dlsnppear as though they had
never been In existence. This does .
,
not mean , however , that nll trimmIng
Is a thing of the past , for the elaborate
hand embroidery was novel' more
beautiful than that on many of the
now cst evening models. Wldo bands
of solid embroidery with gold , silver
and steel spangles and palo colored
irldoscent pullettes Introduced in the
pattern Ill' lJelng placed about the
very burder of the skirt help to lcoep
the matorlal well down and clinging
without any ugly sllnldness , and servo
to Ilccentuato all long and slender
lines. This ombroldery may also bo
carried up on the skirt In long IJolnts ,
.
or on 11. net gown lines of rhlnostones
or pallettes may lJo carrlod down the
skirt from the belt to merge Into the
wi do embroidered band at the end.
Long Mousquetalre Sleeve. -
The long mousqlletalro sleeve of
wrlnltled lace or chHCon , that outlines
the arm closely from the sleeve cap .
. . .
to well over the hllnd , Is smartly In. ' l' ' ,
dorsed on both sides of the sea. . This
la II. particularly good chalco for
womell whose arll1s look best when i-
tholr olltllnes are softened by gauzy ,
shl'oudlngs , whlIo the unbroken IIno
from shoulder to waist tends to malee
the Ilrm appear longoI' and moro slon.
dol' thnll docs the usual aloeve ar-
rangomont.
, . i
Mlrolr Velvets. I
Blllck mlrolr velvets and slmlInr J
fnbrlcs are made up In Imitation of I
broadtail for wear with light colored I
gowns. Lot It bo understood , however -
ever , that furs are not In hIgh favor ;
the ) ' are maI'o fashlonablo and moro
. luxurious than over , but , as hn8 been
, said , this Is'a senson of unusual novel _
) tlos , and the Imitation of fur by vor '
r fine matorlnls 60ems to cntch . the
cJlto fancy. .
.
