Nebraska Newspapers

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Paul Poiret Tells of Fashions At Biarritz
.. I___._-_ '
I By PAUL POIRET,
(Greatest of Parisian Fashion
Creators).
Tarla, Dso. «—The elegant throngs
ot society folk have moved south In
quest of sunshine! Thus a dazzling
season is now displaying Its treasures
of fashion on the Riviera and es
pecially In Biarritz.
The great Palace hotels were filled
with masses of chic and elegant peo
ple, when I was there, and the high
est society bathed In that corner of
the Atlantic ocean. One saw new
establishments opening their exclu
sive doors—and especially In the old
palace of a fallen queen a “Dancing
Rendezvous" was started whose
fame bloomed forth In greatness from
Its very first day of life! This Is
Sacchino on the ancient estate of
Queen Nathalie, anil It Is there that
the well known Harry Pilcer made all
the holiday-enjoying aristocracy
hasten.
The attractions of this place are
many and one of Its charms resides
In the fact that the organization la
altogether new. One gathers there In
the open air; skillfully disposed tiers
of green lawn form an antique am
phitheater; the ,] “proeessium” em
braces the whole dancing space which
Is of linoleum originally incrusted on
the green lawn. Behind this first
plan, a lake displays Its heart-shaped
design proud to show in Its middle a
perfect little Isle where smiles the
Temple of Love—an exquisite replica
' of the one near the Grand Trianon.
Marvelous dancers came Into this en
chanting background to accomplish
their mirarles of skill and their thou
sands of precious movements—In be
tween the public's own fox trotting.
In the middle of the space reserved
for the dancing, the public and their
many little tables, appears a vaste
“podium” of glass; it is there that the
elegant couples dance; hut as they
do so there Is even another charming
surprise for them! Under the panes
of glass of this fairy-tale floor, lamps
are hidden and these send up at pegu
lar Intervals, strange and fantastic
lights; the most resplendent colors
take turns in bathing the dancers.
Fro'in the top of the ceiling pro
jectors flood the scene with other
beams of colorful hues In the most
varied shades and all the brilliant
gowns change tint endlessly accord
ing to the rays they cross.
I, who do not dance (alas!), I spent
«n exquisite evening in contemplat
ing this fairy thing constantly re
newed!
gathered nt the waist line by (our i
twists of fine pearls; a great panel
of periwinkle htied silk is attached
nn the right hip and gracefully
falls to the ground forming a gor
geous train. I do not know whose
creation this gown Is. but It would
deserve to* be signed by Worth
such are its majesty and Its high
distinction.
Biarritz Fete.
And as long as we nre on the
chapter of smart and exquisite
Biarritz—I feel that I must talk
to you about the great fete for which
extraordinary preparations are being
made In the gorgeous villa of Mme.
de Olazabal. This fete will be one
of fhe most resplendent fancy dre>ss
balls of the many to Vie seen during
this season—if I sm td consider at
their full value the plans and efforts
everyone Is making to surprise the
rest of this chic coterie.
I couldn’t yet describe to you all
the costumes that will figure there
but I desire especially to give you
the description of the one that will
he worn by Mile, de Olazabal and
of those worn by Melles. Patino',
daughters of one of the greatest
Spanish families.
Mile. Olazabal will wear the truly
traditional Spanish costume. The
head dress Is composed of a huge
comb covered by a dazzling “man
tilla” of the finest lace of rare blond
white tint.
The low-cut gown Is cdnstructed df
a very tight fitting black velvet
bodice busked "a l’anclenne”—a
bodice which will make the waist ex
ceedingly slendor, while a bertha
fashioned from a flounce of finely
pleaded chiffon borders the decollete.
But most of all, the cklrt Is char
acteristic and deserves to be pic
tured. It Is fashioned out of an in
finity of small flounces of starched,
snow-white chiffon—each one edged
with black Valenciennes lace.
It was necessary to keep not less
than eight working girls busy for
eight days In order to finish the
flounces alone bordered with their
lace.
On the other hand there Is noth
ing more becoming to the fair dancer
than this work o’f fashion and art,
this creation so complicated and
foam like which makes this skirt ap
pear as a jewel case—alive and un
dulating!
It Is understood of course that all
these flounces are sewn on an en
ormous crinoline and that the crlno- .
ilne is lined and underlined by a mul
titude of super-imposed skirts all
hemmed with the same kind of lacy I
flounces; this presents a happy en
semble—a whole—like delicate and
light whipped cream or a huge fluffy
rose which blooms .opens, and closes
swiftly following all the graceful
moves of the dance.
This gown worn by Mile, de
Olazabal, who Is a truly resplendent
Spanish type will undoubtedly win
The traditional Spanish costume
with tile tight-filthi); black velvet
bodice and the Ihirc crinoline made
of an „ infinity of white chiffon
flounce* edged with black Valencien
nes lace. The huge Spanish comb I*
covered by a dazzling mantilla of
blond-white lace.
by delicate shells in exquisitely gradu
ated shades of rose—from the palest
of pink to the most ardent of rose.
floor a gown out of my own "ateliers”
which I am going to describe to you;
It is a dress of black "fulgurante”
(very brilliant, lustrous silk), delight
fully simple In cut, adorned at the
waist line, as the photograph shows,
with a zig-zag motif of silver running
from the right sleeve to the left one.
You will instantly understand from
Jhis photograph that two panels of
contrasting colors are encrusted un
der a braid of sliver. One of the
panels Is of silver, the other of gold.
If truly Is a beautiful gown.
I But I assure you that people
started to applaud when this gown
arrived on the crystal dancing
floor ;a beautiful young girl of 20
wore this long slim tunic of pale blue
tulle; and one could not well have
said whether the' tunic was blue or
whether the eleetrlo bulbs blending
with the moonlight made it appear
of that ethereal hue.
Delicate Flowers.
A light and slender enter-deux flace
Insertion) of silver and gold lace
forms a dolmatiea pn the bodice as
one can admiringly follow on the
sketch which Illustrates this descrip
tion, and the same gold and silver In
sertion of lace forms at the waist
line the youthful girdle and adorns
the rim of the skirt. And If one
gazes at this adorable creation for a
greater length of time one begins to
see finely embroidered flowers, ap
pearing as If by slow magic—flowers
of hues as delicate as to Ate Invisible
at first glance.
This gown aside from the fact that
it possesses sheer beauty, breathes
all the grace of frail and exquisite
th.ngs, and is like unto the rare
flower that too much sunshine would
cru.=h—or again like a young, deli
cate beauty doomed to perish when
th» first cold of autumn appears on
the horizon.
Of a more rustle and vigorous
splendor Is this gown of mauve and
gold "lame" tissue. This Is like
a tunic vertically draped and
Rivalry It* Keen.
Great rivalry of elegance reigns
there and I noticed gowns of priceless
value and of priceless beauty
There was especially to be seen and
admired a gown of silver lace over
embroidered with black pearls. I send
you the picture of this lovely thing,
whose ensemble trimmed with ori
ental designa makes one think of a
tropical serpent's akin, and when this
dress is worn by a supple and undu
lating figure this Impreasion Is highly
strengthened. A broad belt of green
velvet closely follows the hip line and
two straps of black and silver run
toward the shoulders over a hodlc* of
vivid silver.
you will notlpe the sleeve, a re
mark .tidy original cut—which is a
hajf-sdecve running only from the
wrist to the elbow. There is nothing
to cover the arm; nothing on the
shoulders.
1’iirt 'r the Influence of the multi
colored lights this gown beoame trans
formed in turn into a mauve gowo,
Into a rose gown, Into a green gown—
and the result of it was sheer magic.
There also danced before my eyes
a gown Treated by Lanvin, all made
of rose tulle (fine silky jpet) which
tinder my very gaze became lilac,
purple and blue. It appeared as a
cloud of tulle—a nebulous vapor—reli
ed up In a belt of the same rose net.
And, too, there was a young girl
who wore another pink gown whose
lower part of the skirt, as seen in the
design I join herewith, is formed hv
blostfronlng petals, or, If you prefer.
a tremendous success.
Persian Miniatures.
And now let us look upon the
gowns of the Misses Patino who look
exactly like two Persian mtnlaturea,
most slender and precloua.
One of the Misses Patino will wear
the Egyptian costume of the purest
style; We are In the Pharaohs’
epoch. The costume !» composed of
a skirt of gold entirely pleated with
extreme finesse and hanging down to
the ankles fro'm slender hips; this
skirt Is not a piece of material alone.
It Is rather a masterpiece of a gold
smith's art; Its hem ends In a shower
of rlnges of gold, most light and deli
cate, through which one glimpses
slender ankles. The golden sandals
very much like "cothurnes” are made
of thongs of leather repeatedly
crossed after an ancient art. The
bodice Is fashioned of two lovely
plates to cover the breasts, plates ex
oulsltely made of delicate and tiny
Kingfisher feathers and gold tissue.
The same Kingfisher feathers adorn
the waist line running all around ■
rich circle. But I would like to be
able to describe the resplendent head
dress, a real masterpiece; this Is com
posed of a golden wig laid absolutely
flat over her own hair and showing
the same short bob which Is so fash
louahle today and which was even
tnoVe «o In the time of those smart
Egyptians of long ago!
On this wig one poses • heed
dress which Is the very head dress
of the Goddess Isle; It closely encir
cles the head of the wearer and ends
In front with the head of a cobra held
In place by an armature of diamonds
and a wealth of plumes. These are of
the same Kingfisher feathers and they
cascade softly on each side of the
youthful face whose contour they
faithfully frame.
Mile, Patino, whose countenance Is
of a delicate regularity, will Ajsuredly
resemble to a goddess of the golden
antiquity or to Semlramls!
Her sister, who Is astonishingly like
her, will wear a gown come to life
out of one of Velasques' portraits: It
Is a gown of black vslvet braided all
over with a narrow braid of brilliant
silver, and trimmed with en exquisite
bertha of lingerie; over lingerie
sleeves, open large sleeves of black
velvet also braided with vivid ellver.
The romantic wig, quits large on
the sides. Is of silk In ‘'tete-de-negre''
hue, and adorned with tiny motifs of
heavy sliver lace, and an Immense
blue plume gracefully falling over Ihe
left shoulder.
It Is as nearly aa possible (be ra
production of the canvas, portrait by
Velasques to be seen In the Prado
museum—on the left wall as one en
ters the first great hall, But, of
course, you know It quite well.
Wayne College Note*.
Mm Margaret C fb hemal of tha <1*
pa rt m*nt of modern languages wtH present
h paper to tha Nebraska to*.-beta of mm!
•m language* at tha midyear meeting
In Omaha. December In. Mia* hibernal
will dlacua^ t ha subject. * How Modem
l.angiinge Instruction Meet* tha Teat of
Teaching a Pupil to ThlnW '*
Tha hnsket ball eeaaon will find the
roileica with a atrong team, at-rordlng to
nil pteaent signs. m Captain Hr at ami
threw other 'veterans of th* pa at season
«r» atlll In achool, T»*«t year thla ■ mu
hltiathm won second pi art* In the state
conference, toeing only one game out of
16.
Tha alumni register published annual!*,
will b* readv for distribution In January
It will contain the names. iidnressn* and
present o< cupstIona of thn niutmil ao fur
«a It 1a poealble to anurn these The
alumni, who number nearly t.OOO. are
responding well to tha letters recently
mailed from tha offb a to eecur* the
needed Information
The holiday number of the Ooldsnrod.
th* student publication of the college,
will bn the annual bulletin of the Nel
hard! club and will be devoted rhtefl.v
r r> * cone'dr* alien of "The Song nf the
Indian Ware" the latest of tha Velhardt
spies which will appear In February
Anyone desiring a special copy nf thla
Ooldenrod should send word st once to
th* college 4 , . . ,
t«ss Pugh hutnnrfgt appeared at th*
auditorium last Monday txanlng aa *
Moonlight blue is the tint of this
slim tunic of tulle with the slender
"entre-deux'’ of sheer hire forming
(lie “dalmaticn," Hip girdle and hem
ming shirt embroidered with flowers
as delicate as to he almos( Invisible.
Suggestions of the same rose petals
were on the hips and shoulders—
thus no rose was ever more dazzling
nr more gay or more touching than
this young, fresh gown!
Ami there appeared on the glass
(Children Are 111 j
if they Wont-play 0mA
Watch them carefully. You can forestall I i ' j ff/j J
a serious ailment with a spoonful of j j| 1 / 7/ jl
E Dr. Caldwell’s Syrup Pepsin / * j jjl jl
|: you see a child moping, avoids /|jdii jl
I: ing companions and toys and play, look at i ‘V - v
I: its tongue and you will usually find it coated—a relia- I hwwyi j It f
I: ble symptom of constipation. :|
I: Forthwith give a teaspoonful of Dr. llm T [fsRWki :I
|: Caldwell’s Syrup Pepsin. It will operate (\ ^- -^Br |
I: ;n • tew hours and the child ^lll feel better again. !» . f < V, :|
■X II there is also feverishness, sneezing and sniffing vitarf' r‘\ ik.
I* Kive another teaspoonful tHe following night, to /a.jdiaaZl
. I; make aure that all danger is'past. jl
I* It is perfectly unnecessary to give "'V' fab?? - jl
|j young children strong physics and car- , r. ;l
|Z t'1arjio* ** theyare^apt to set u^ a bad habit {hey ' ^
I: A mild vegetable laxative like Dr. Cald-'
wclls Syrup Pepsin meets all their requirements, v , , . ;|
■: and as it is pleasant to take you will find no diffi- You can buy a bottle at any drug store *1
culty administering it. *t an average cost of less than a cent a dose. I
|: Experienced mothers learned its value The ingredients of Dr. Caldwell's SvruD *1
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I; ChaHes iiw^RiT °*rk. Rocky Okla., and Mr. pound of Egyptian senna with pepsin and agreeable J
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crai good health of their families to flic prompt use The formula, which i9 on every package was writ
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|z Other d.sorders accomDanv «“»• *» «•»'' ■— -d *<'J— <" '*• -< -J *« Z 'A u JT fam.,ly' you,’« :|
|z ing or due to a convl.n.t.uf loth. 1’rp.ln Syro, Co., 518 Wuhin.ion Mmi, or old. If It does not come up .1
1* condition of iVtm °nMip>tea Mond.ello, ltliouU, «nd . fre .ample buiilo of *° our promise your money *1
■Z bowels. * ln^cs'lne* *nd Dr. Caldw.tr. Svrup i’.p.in will b« imi them will be refunded. It is our in- • ■
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6
Hodgepodge and Such!
By 0.0. MTNTYRK.
I recently received a letter from a !
prisoner I had befriended Rnd who
is again In the toils. I had never seen i
film. He writes: "One day in May I i
massed you on Fifth avenue, then
turned and brushed passed you again,
t wanted to touch your coat, and did. :
you glanced at me but never knew i
he drama, the part in life's drama :
we played. At the corner of Fifth '
lvenue and Thirty-third street I l
iroke down and cried. Ask the of- i
fleer at the corner if he recalls a i
16 tou£h plays and dose decisions—
>ut I'll win."
Here's hoping he clouts the apple
>ver the garden wall and makes the
■ircult!
"I believe 1 you are lazy." write*
i lady in Atlantia. (How did that get
uit?) And she continues: "Why don't
rou walk up to 192d street and see
vhat Is going on there. You rarely
ret above Harlem." All of which re
uintls me of the man living at 182d
treet who said that in going home
In London Now They Threaten Those Who Hesitate
young fellow who cried (on* after
noon In May, this year) and who.
when asked the trouble, told the of
ficer he had a severe pain?—but I
didn't tell him It was my heart.
"The game isn't over. I have made
boners but there's an Inning or two
left and I’m at bat again and will
connect—this time. The chances are
I'll get a single, but I’ll get on and
eventually around the bags and home
—with the winning run. There'll
he took the night boat to Albany and
walked bark two blocks.
This suggestion of laziness Inspires
me to paste up a few more letters.
Permitting correspondents to fill the
column Is a New York habit. Here Is
one from a man in Lincoln ,N'eb.:
"As a rule I enjoy your articles.
They are brisk and readable. But I
don’t like you when you refer to
your wife as 'poor wretch.' "
The term "poor wretch” was one
Here’s Answer to Last Week’s Puzzle;
Look Out for Another One Next Week
Here’s the answer to last week’s cross-word puzzle In The Omaha Sun
lay Bee.
Next week there will he another cross-word puz/le In The Omaha
Sunday Bee even crazier than the crazy one of la*t week.
Watch for it.
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Tripa Inc lod*/ FREE.
linvAftift T'fii|htful tiiw'Wui trip by auto through the city and •uhmha,
•topping at « hiaf point* of interv*t.
Crifttottnl Hv motor to Gatun. where time la allowed to Intpert lock*,
dam, •pillway, etc. Thirty mile* through tha canal bv launch to Pedro
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• ienty of time ashore for sight seeing, shopping, etc. Exceptional facilities for
fishing, bathing, golf.
Aboard the ships of the Great White Fieet every passenger is a guest—sur
rounded by every comfort, given every personal attention bv officer* and
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passenger'* conilort and pleasure. ___
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agent, or Havana, Ciiatubal. Tala, llomtuia,
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H. C. Hick*. A.G.P.A. OB w,dn„d.r
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that Samuel Pepys used In referring
to his wife and It used merely In
following his style. My wife Is not
a "poor wretch" by lit city blocks.
She Is about the most beautiful lady
I ever beheld. And she has been my
companion for 17 years. After euch
an association the wonder of It all la
that she isn’t a "poor wretch."
And here Is an amusing travel letter
from Ray I-aing, who Is hibernating
In England after seeing France, Scot
land, Holland, Ireland. Belgium, Nor
way and Sweden In his pilgrimage
Dear Sir and Oojjsln: I win now
take my pen in hand to tell you of
our sojourn In Paris. This city, ss
you may see from your maps, Is the
capital city of France and Is situated
on the two hanks of the river Seine.
The right bank Is tfhere you go
when you are decent and respectable
and the left bank is w-here you go
when you are with BUI Hogg and
Ring I.ardner. But of that more
anon. The principal Industry on the
right bank Is dressmaking. If you
have doubts of that please con
suls Guaranty Trust Company. Forty
fourth street and Fifth avenue, New
York City and ask them how does
mv account stand—If st all.
Dear cousin, my heart pines for
you. Tills p. m. a gent tried to sell
me sunset pink shirts In M. Sulka's
new shop in London and when I
said ‘But M'sieu. I could not.’ he
said, 'but M. Long. M. McIntyre will
scoop you on those if you hesitate.'
So I ordered them, but. dear cousin
the tailor who has collaborated with
me on all the clothes you have copied
is ill of a carbuncle. So do the fates
guide the destiny of man: and I may
be forced to teach another London
tailor how to make habllamenfs,
chaste and magnificent, for gentle
men. And so now I have told you
of Paris and in my next epistle I
shall tell you cf Holland where gin
comes from."
Here Is another from Houdlnl, the
handcuff king. "My clipping bureau
has sent me concrete evidence of your
good will. Many thanks. Am off on
a lecture tour 'cries crossing’ and
‘transcontinentaling’ for the next 10
weeks. I hope to see you upon my
return to town. I have another coin
trick to teach you. You have master
ed the other creditably. Som» day
you may become my sueceasor."
"How are you off for life Insur
ance?" writes a friendly agent.
"Wouldn’t you feel terrible If some
day crossing New York streets you
were struck hv a taxicab and perma
nently disabled?" I would not only
feel terrible, but plum put out.
"You ran omit.” writes a Cincin
nati reader, "your monthly sob about
dogs. And personally It doesn’t inter
est me If you stroll through the town
and m-et Paul Whiteman or Flo Zleg
feld. Theic «re times when you give
me a stiff pain In the neck, but some
how I continue to read your artlclea
the first thing.”
Keep on reading them. It 1* still
t*he age of miracles. I may get better.
Here ts a discerning and able critic
--a preacher In East IJverpool, O.
"I’m writing to express my personal
appreciation of your moat excellent
work. I Jike your moral fiber, your
old-fashioned ideals and your stern
criticisms of the modern fashion and
fanatics."
From old lew Cody, who Is out
west, where men are men, and, as
"Bugs" Baer Bays, women are gov
ernors: "Do you remember that day
I met you in Place Vendome? In
Paris, and you threw away your cane
and I threw away my hat? And arm
in-arm we descended to one of those
tables at Humpelnayers and a lady
sniffed: ’Tipsy Americans?’ Well, we,
weren't tipsy then, were we* What |
1 was going to sav was thl«—prac
tically speaking—I have Just been to
one of those wild parties In Hollywood
and am not tipsy now. I had thre*
plates of Ice cream anfl we pulled
tafTy, but coming down the steps ol
a house I turned my ankle and hall
fell. A visiting fireman and hla wi6
were passing and I heard her eey
'Drunk, 1 suppose” This la a erne
world, and If you hear of* pale young
man's body floating In the Gowanu*
canal, call up Allan Dwan, Circle
1895, and ask him how the canaries
are. Next atop—Albuquerque, where
you see real Indian* In mall ordei
feathers."
"I am wondering where In (you
can't use that word here, mister!) you
got the iderf," writes "a Baltimore
reader,” "that New York la a klndr
hearted city. I was there three weeks
ago. I was Insulted by a taxi driver,
snubbed by a hotel clerk, Ignored by
a waiter and sassed by a bootblack.
I never want to see the town again.
It. Is filled with the underbred and
overfed, .fust as the poem eayi. I
would rather spend an hour In Balth
more than air years In New York.
What New York has every other elty
In America has—minus had mass
nera."
, (Copyright, l»iO
FRANK W. HILLS
DIES IN NEW YORK
The death of Frank W. Hill®, form*
er Omahan, in announced in letter*
received by a number of Omahan*
from the American Smelting and Re*
fining company in New Yorth
Me was comptroller of the compaif
for 23 years. While he lived In
Omaha he wai employed by the
Union Pacific railroad befor# h«
joined the smelter staff.
YOUTH BELIEVED
TO BE FUGITIVE.
Sheriff Lainson sent photograph
and finger prints of Jay’Graham to
Toledo, la., Saturday on request of
authorities there. They arrested •
youth who, they believe may he
Graham. He Jumped from a trala
at Belle Plaine, la., while being tak
en to the Anamosa reformatory to
serve "5 years for robbing a Coun
cil Bluffs filling station.
The president's immediate Job, a«
It appear* to us, will be to keep the
l ime ducks from proposing any quack
measures.—Columbia Record.
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£*• Tht HhLl Player t Hattn
J" role Player t Pride Th* Realization of Your Anticipations
The Surf Bather't Joy Truly th* Outdoor City
THE •etung ia along tht abort, of tht Beautiful, Cryatal
Clear Atlantic Ocean and Biacavne Bay, among the
( oconufa, Royal Palm, Orange and Grapefruit Grove,.
Plenty of ocean with everybody bathing in it ait hun
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