*
i
Av afternoon frock of pale gray j
silk has a pleated skirt and or- U
gandie collar and cuffs embroid- v
<;red in brUtiantly colored silk
flowers
eery—one leaning aesiguers nc
hind locked doors refusing to divulge
any of their precious secrets—the new
frocks designed for mid-season wear
show a subtle difference from those of
the early fall and winter.
Nothing is known definitely of the
changes the spring will bring forth.
Much is surmised, however. Various new
ideas have been launched during the win
ter by designers both here and abroad
and some have met with instant success.
In place of the change of modes twice
, year, it is now getting to be the cus
m to talk of four fashion seasons, and
while it is possible to exist on the clothes
purchased in spring and fall, a new
ir.dk between times is almost a necessity.
It is for this reason that many of the
leading houses have established mid-sea
con openings. These occasions are not as
nportant, of course, as those of the
. pring or fall. Rut they do serve their
purpose of showing the subtle changes
'.at have taken place since the fall, and
a addition they foreshadow to a certain
•.tent the more important stylos to
unit.
At present all interest centers in the
adored suit. It is extraordinary the
success this type of costume is having
both here and abroad. This feature of
•he present mode will undoubtedly hold
over until spring, for nothing is so smart
for street wear as a perfectly tailored
coat and skirt, a smart, blouse and do
nure cloche-shaped hat. Such acces
sories as shoes, gloves and bag must he
i perfect accord to achieve an ensem
i le of real distinction.
In the matter of color, the mode has
decided that nothing will be quite so
chic for daytime wear as navy blue.
Twill, gabardine, serge and rep are the
favored materials for the tailleur. Ox
ford mixtures and dark blue or blade
cloth with a fine ha'x-line stripe will
also find favor, and it is impossible to
imagine a spring without a certain
amount of black and white checked
materials.
For warmer weather silk alpaca, a
new material very soft and strong, will
bo used for both tailleurs and one and
two-piece tailored frocks.
Next in popularity to the tailored suit
is the tailored frock. This is worn now
under a long coat or fur jacket and
later can be used as a street costume.
It may be of either the one-piece or two
piece variey. Premet's “gnreonne” frocks
have proved so practical as well as chic
that they will be again in demand.
A noteworthy feature of this type of
dress is the turn-over collar of whito
linen, organdie or silk. This touch of tho
white at the nock is a strong feature
of the present mode, and as it is essen
tially spring-like in appearance we shall
see U on many of the smartest frock <
of tho coming season. It is a youthful
note and generally more flattering
than the rather trying bateau line.
In the afternoon black satin
frocks predominate. Some moire is
used, but the trend is all toward
satin. The majority of afternoon
clothes are delightfully simple.
There is very little ornamentation,
the trimming usually taking the
form of a pleated panel or apron.
Many of these frocks* have sheer
batiste collars and cuffs, and al
though seemingly simple in appearance
there ig a subtle air of sophistication
about them that in part accounts for
their success.
The flounce has beer definitely adopted
by well-dressed women, and there are
many charming versions of it on rhe
newest afternoon frocks. Sometimes it
is finely pleated and put on straight
around the bottom of the skirt Or it
may be circular and be in front, only.
One of the most effective forms is to
be seen on a *frock designed by T'atou.
Here there arc gathered volantes in front
only and these follow a curved line,
starting at the knee?, at one side and
ending at the waistline on the other side
of the front of the skirt. Satin lends
itself admirably to these rutiled effects,
so strong a feature of the mode at pres
ent. Many di^igncrs use a crepe satin
and allow the dull side to appear in
places.
The evening inode is delightfully
varied. As dancing has never hern more
popular, there are many frocks designed
with this in mind. Countless ingenious
devices are employed to gel fullness into
a skirt that at rest hangs very straight
and narrow. For while there is any
amount of full skirts, the houffnnt robe
de-style type of skirt is ^ bit pasae. In
the first place, it takes up too much
room and its exaggerated lines ur<> be
coming to none but the very slender.
Twu charming versions of full skirted
dance frocks are li be seen on this page.
Vale preen chiffon
with an effective
applique design of
chiffon in a lighter
tone outlined in
silver makes a par
ticularly smart
evening frock for
this season of the
year
In both these models the skirt is full,
m a skirt must tie on a frock intended
for dancing, but it is a different fullness
from the Lanvin type of bouffant skirt.
In the first place it doesn't flare and
it is shorter than the robe-de-stylc typo
of skirt.
Hither o' these delightful frocks will
help solve the problem of a new mid
season dance dress. This portion of one’s
wardrobe is sure to be sadly depleted
at this time of year. The many dances
and parties have played havoc with
delicate laces and chiffons. And half tha
charm of a gown of this kind is its
freshness.
Particularly lovely in color is the chif
fon frock shown^on this page. This is a
delicate shade of French blue chiffon over
u satin foundation of the same color and
the youthful marabout trimming has been
dyed to exactly mutch. This trimming is
used in an unusually effective manner
on the bodice to give the appearance of
u deep V and to add to the long wuistod
look of the dress. Two bands of it on
the bottom give a slight flare to the
skirt, not enough, however, to detract
from its appearance of slenderness.
The girdle is of silver ribbon. It ties
in the front a little toward one side, and
in addition there is a big pink rose for
another lovely note of color.
Youthful and very chic, this dainty
dance frock will be just as smart in May
as it is now, tor all one has to do to
convert it into a summer evening frock
Unusually smart because of its
slender silhouette is this mid-ren
. son coat of nary blue, twill
trimmed with leopard skin
and embroidered in tan
anti gold
is to remove the marabout and substi
tute ribbon.
Quite as youthful is the other dance
frock photographed on this page. This
is * delightful affair of chiffou in shades
of green, a pale delicate green, darker
at the bottom of the skirt and shading
up to very light green on the bodice.
Further interest is added by the trim
ming, which consists of chiffon in nn
applique design on both the skirt and
bodice. As th< applique is of a lighter ton-'
it is easily distinguishable. For further
effect it is outlined in silver thread.
The design of this applique is both
novel and effective. The deep hand on <
the skirt shows a pattern of tulips nnd
a Dutch boy and girl in among the
flowers. The bodice is simple, with the
applique appearing in points and in a
checked design around the neck. The
gird(le is a combination of silver nnd
green ribbons, ending in bt{^ soft loops
at one aide.
litre again the skirt i moderately
full, wide enough for dancing, hut with
no exaggeration in its lines.
Afternoon frocks also have a habit
.if wearing out at this time of year. And.
J
■.. 11 —~T
,4h ideal mid-season da nee frock is of French
blue chiffon trimmed with marabout of the
same shade. Another color note is the
ijirdie of silver ribbon
JH| n frock of
some light
er material
than the velvet one
that now begins to
look n hit shabby
is r.nt only desirable but necessary.
Also shown on this page is a smart
little frock of pale pray faille crepe
that has enough distinction to wear to
a tea dance or afternoon bridge and is
aimple enough to take South and use as
a sports costume if necessary.
Its air of simplicity is its greatest
charm. It is far from simple, however,
in reality- The sun pleated skirt is its
most, attractive feature. This form of
pleating is not only extremely chic at
present but is vastly becoming to the
majority of women, as it gives the slim
look about the hips and the pleats pre
serve the slender silhouette all the way
down. Two rows of tiny pearl buttons
also add to the appearance of height
Another strong feature of the mode
> t.s to be aeon on the collar and cuffs of
this frock. Embroidery in brilliant
colors Russian peaaunt effects has be
come extraordinarily smart. In this case
the embroidery is in the form of big silk
flowers in vivid colors on sheer, white
organdie.
The picturesque hat is soft black
straw with the brim edged with a narrow
taffeta ruche.
The other picture shows an unsuallv
striking coat that is just the right
weight for this time of year. The mate
rial is navy blue twill and the em
broidery is in shades of tawny yellow
to match the color of the leopard skin
collar and cuffs. liCopard skin has been
in great demand this year for coats. It
is an excellent spring fnr, as it is light
in both weight and color.
Nothing could be more graceful than
‘.ho long slender lines of this eoau It
is made to bo worn held tightly about
one and there is no break at the waist
line.
\ coat of this kind is invaluable at
this season of the year, for as the spring
approaches the heavy coats of the win
ter begin to lose their chic. This is an
ideal wrap to slip on over the tailleur
motoring or to wear over a thin satin
afternoon frock.
Yellow also is the hat, the crown be
ing made of a heavy yellow and brown
striped grosgrain and the narrow brim
of brown straw. The lining of the coat
carries out the color motif of the leopard
skin, being of golden brown crepe de
Chine.
Another loading note of the mid-sea
son mode is the use of scarfs. The new
scarf collar is to be found on many
cloth street frocks, while many of the
smartest of the new coats have capes
ending in a scarf collar.
The scarfs of gayly printed silk ap
peared a year ago in Paris. Their vogue
is increasing if anything, and to-day we
tind a brightly colored and patterned
handkerchief almost an integral part of
the tailored suit, for it is worn knotted
in various ways over the white cflk
blouse one wears with the tailleur.
