(Crust Ptumn SjraM*
Quaint and Graceful Is This
Welcome New Accessory
ISN'T it «**_, t — amazing thing
how an article of dress may be
Introduced and "made,” almost
over night? Take the lovely new
bertha collars, for instance, which ft
short time ago were practically un
known, except by those w ho remem
bered them from years ago. So that
they really aren't so new after alC
you see, but are onlv another exam
ple of the fact that fashion's wheel
'is constantly turning.
But I certainly am delighted that
such a charming accessory has'been
brought out by the latest turn, aren’t
you? A bertha Iws the pleasing fac
ulty of virtually making a new frock
out of the year before last one. A
bit of change In the draping; one of
Ihe fascinating low-placed rolled gir
dles; a de<wy deep bertha and not
even the wa»i>an next door would
recognize. 'Which, let me add, Is
wtttio accomplishment. 1 might whis
per that many clever girls are doing
this very thing. It really is so sel
dom that a gown actually wears out,
when you come to think of It. It
merely becomes passe. And If some
thing like this may be done to give
it a new lease of life. It's worth do
ing, don’t you think?
Avoid the Collar Effect.
One of the things to be avoided. If
I
you are to be stamped as fully In
step with the mode, Is the too narrow
bertha, which has the efTect of being
merely a rounded collar. It should
be deep, often coming halfway to the
waist, to get the accepted touch.
And there Is no kind of a gown with
which it cannot be worn. The clever
designers have seen to that The
bateau lines, which are so dear to the
heart of the average woman, have
been well taken care of. The 1830
neck line is also liked, and the bertha
seems especially adapted for this
style.
If your gown opens on the shoul
der there Is the bertha In two parts
which also opens on either shoulder.
There aro adorable affairs with
rounded or square tabs, which may
be manipulated Into almost any lines
desired. There Is the very new Purl
Don’t B: a Collector of White Elephants
If there Is ono Mg thing that the
homo decorator should know,
and which nine out of ten home
decorators do not know. It |g that
useless what-nots are at their best
in the aph heap. Just look about
;ou, young housewife, and pee it you
aren’t harboring some perfect eye
sore of an ornament somewhere In
your domicile. One Is quick to note
the offending what-nots in some oth
er woman's house, but somehow or
other the association idea Is a blind
to the unbeautlful In one's own home
Take, for example, that perfectly
hideous first attempt of Cousin Lucy
at china painting. Just because oth
erwise little precious I,ucy did It, It
occupies a prominent pluce on the
parlor mantel; to remove It were
open to Insult to the whole of Cousin
Lucy's family. Insult or no, It U
nothing short of crime In these days
of erfloicncy end utility to give
houseroom to the removable unbeau
tlful dust collectors of yors.
The harboring of such la peculiar to
the woman of the hoarding type; she
who buys things Juat because they
are cheap regardless of considering
Just whether they are really cheap to
her. Piling eyes are suro to find
many a ridiculous curio in her home.
There are lengths of "pretty goods,”
which are far beyond the styles
w he n the possessor gets time to
make them up. And there Is a per
fect host of other such truck which
belongs by right In the ragbag. The
efficient housekeeper sees In tho use
less and the unbeautlful extra work;
therefore, she makes it a point to
tako stock every month or two of
her belongings.
Try giving your rooms a thorough
dispassionate Inspection some time,
keeping in inlnd the golden rule of
the successful derorator discard all
that Is neither useful nor beautiful
nor Interesting and Just see If you
aren't delighted with the baie ele
ganco of your home.
tau bertha, which opens in tho front
and comes up high against tho chin.
Highly desirablo for the bertha,
whleh you make yourself, are the
embroidered nets which come In ev
ery degree of fineness and show fas
rinallng hand-done dots and lovely
patterns Net In combination with
Irish point and baby Irish is ex
tremely smart and has that appear
ance »of aristocratic elegance which
the use of Irish always gives.
Perhaps the most popular model
Is the one which starts at the neck
with finely pleated net and continues
for about six Inches. Then comes
nn Inch-wide Insertion of Irish, honl
ton or filet, follows! by n slender
band of net itaiiaily embroidered, and
edged by tho laoo In somewhat
deeper width. Such a model may ar
company almost any type of frock
and add distinction. It is particular
ly good with the blue twill of the
business girt and gives her a ravish
ingly dainty appearance.
One of tho most extraordinary
berthas which I found In a tour of
the shops was of white satin, edged
with black monkey fur. Such a col
lar might be most effective on a
frock of black satin and on the right
woman would achieve ultra smart
ness. Across the water fur-trimmed
berthas are seen to* be among the
most prominent newness, tf you will
allow tho word. Ilut on this sldo of
the Atlantic buyers tell rne that in I
lady who desires tho fur-edged ber
tha usually cither has It made to
order or applies the fur herself. And
they add that narrow lengths of
mink are delightful on the cream and
Ivory-tinted Orientals which an often
top the brown toned frocks of the
season. .Sable Is another of tho furs
which are handsome with brown
shades, and many women will edge
theirs with liolinsky.
There are dark colored berthas,
too, although tlieso are distinctly in
the minority 1 not red some ha vy
blue eatin ones, which were devel
oped In the overlapping petal effect,
amt there 8i« Mark and dark blue
crepe de chine ones whose bib edge*
are bouud with white, This petal
theme, by the way, ts slro carried
out In net embroidered In dots and
edged with Val. lace.
You may at well decide Immedi
ately just what style yurt are going
to choose. For you will he certain
lo succumb to their lure, sooner or
later. And It In so much nicer to he
n wee lilt alieS^ of one's friends lu
the mode Ilian forlornly copying
them, now isu't Ilf . • __
t
Size and Number More Important Than
Quality in the Jewelry World at Present
N O one la realty smart this sea
son who does not have at
least one spin e of novelty
Jewelry. Ju blacks and whiles your
Mr style story of Jrwclry la beirn:
printed this Fall.
No doubt you have noticed that
many of the dresses are devoid of
trimming. This is Just to give ear
rings ami pendants a chance. A dress
of navy blue twill, very tralght, at
most severe, the only contrast com
ing from deep bands of gray cut wool
embroidery at sleeve and skirt edge.
Is u gi>od background for onyx and
marcastte pendant, long swinging
earrings of cut steel. On* should
also have cut steel buckles on her
slippers.
Onyx and jot crystal, pearls and
Ivory with cut steel with maroasttn
running close seconds, and Jade right
on their heels these are the favorite
ornaments of the ds.v.
r>o not wear much, but what you
do hat e must be worth noticing. Amt
sl»e rounts this season.
barrings are getting bigger and
bigger, trying to reach the shoulders.
Krom simple drops anil hoops, they
have become elaborate set pieces,
such as exotic carved jade in intrt
eat« gold work, square sapphires
fringed with pearls, crystal and
coral tassels, medallions of cut steel
or maixaslte. The last mentioned
combination looks like a cross be
tween steel and rhinestone*.
Necklaces,
There 1* a preference Just now for
big pendants on slim chains, dust as
there is an earring for e\ cry ear,
there's a necklace for every neck
Among the pendants displayed there
are those of cloudy cry stal or onyx,
set w ith marcasitr, of carved jade or
dear crystal cut in Intaglio style on
black cords. And delicate motifs of
pearl dripping from frosty silver
chains.
Mauv of you may prefer heads, and
If you do notice that double strings
of pearl* are Just right And
that graduated beads of ivory, amber,
rose-quarts, aflTrthyst or crystal are
desirable.
Hating bought a new dress, with
out any trimming, except two cut
?'<«'! buckles at the w.u .re, 1 mads
a round of the Jewelry shops yester
day looking for a necklace or siring of
be■ • d:• I would i;k? te wear w :h tt
au t 1 will now enumerate s. me of
the beautiful pieces of Jewelry 1 saw.
H'VsiUc Ruckle*.
I'lrst there was a pair of moats
buckles for shoes and a carved crys
tal pendant which was very beauti
ful. I think 1 shall go tack and get
one of 'hose. Amor* the bracelets
was one of pearls and Fre: , h jet, a
silver medallion pendant was rather
beautiful. I bught that. »- 1 thought
it would look well with the gown I
mentioned above. Out sleci earrings
lock attractive. A pin of rhinestones
and onyx was Just the thing 1 want
ed. l-ust of all 1 saw a wonderful
po r of earrings made of Mcpph res
he**
w ere the real stone, that is, those of
sapphire*, pearls and onyx. They •
are merely Imitations and aU of lh«
Jewelry was low-priss<l.