Il wNhwaMhiwirete3MifcU jr - v - -s - ? ss: OfcjmAS' t',r&J'. A-Jmt "iM-!i' y tr ;tyi " ;j!iffliOTss aftf''1' "1 fcW WMfrMEJW-- A K 3 -f ..!. HM.fc..W.I " MI "T " T - T" "T- rvf- i MMIW.,1 i..,.i. iiliri i' T" i -If -- "- iiiiiln1ll w - If: I ' cfotsww I 1. W 'WITH UlANOS Sr y IAP - I PwaABLY'teS OSOUTH POLE I J-fe fflKSIS1? o. 8823' JAN.9-1909 1 eSS- C QUARTERS" . -9a yI I aW W 0W PACK sea gKagjp0jr 0 1 uc a) ' ' tJfi ' ENDWEW APAWEjgffiuTM '"-nv f ' ' MAGNETIC if I 4s fa POUB x ,P ! fr KAISfR WILHELN g "VELLINGTON, & LAND J? !1 iXPAUSTRALIAN ADELAIDE MSPV V WBSl i . Tr - - -- -- - - -.. - . . . m 9 r I - J 1 CAPTAIN SCOn - TELLS HIS STOflY Tho English Antartic Explorer Had Trying Experiences. DARING WINTER OPERATIONS Amundsen's Rivals In Race to South Pole Had Several Miraculous Escapes Thrilling Narrative by Noted British Officer. SPECIAL NOTICE: Cap t.l Robert F. Bcott'8 nurrutlvo of Ills explorations in tho antartlo tmbllalied below wan Ih sued by tho Now York Tlmci compnny rb a book, duly entered for copyright snd publicly nxposed for unle, tho amo bdnK Its first publkutlon anywhere In the world. Its reproduction In this newspaper is of courso duly nuthorlzed. Its reproduction elsenhcro in tho Unltod States In any form excopt by permission from tho Now York Times company is forbidden. Copyrlsht 1912 by the New York Times company, (all rights roscrved). Copy righted in tho United KlnRdom by th Central News, Limited., London. Reg istered in tho Department of Agricul ture. Cop right Branch. Dominion of Cannda, by tho Central News Limited, London. Special Cablo to The New York Times, Aknroa, New Zealand, Tuesday, April 2. Lieut. Pennell, commander of tho Terra Nova, of the British antarctic expedition of 1910, which arrived hero yesterday, brought with him a long and Intensely Interesting account of tho work and experiences of tho expedition up to January third last, written expressly for the Now York Times by Capt. Robert F. Scott, tho leader of tho oxpedltlon. Capt. Ecott's Btory la as follows: By Robert F. Scott. Macmurdo Sound, Oct. 30, 1911. Shortly after tho departure of tho Dopot-Lnying party from Capo Evans on January 25, 1911, tho sea Ice broke at South Copo and severed communi cations with tho ship. Tho Depot party consisting of 12 men, eight ponies and two dog teams occupied till January .10 In establishing a baso camp at tho Uarrlor ueven mllos east, southeast of Hut Point, Owing to the heavy weights to bo trauspoitod tho main part of tho supplies woro left at thlB camp. Tho party proceeded with elnglo loads east, southeast, 27 miles to a spot named Cornor Cnmp, before turning south to avoid tho crovatscs of White, Island. Tho anow surfaco proved very soft, making torrlbly hard work for tho ponies. A three days hoavy blizzard at Comer Camp wib a further severe trial to tho animals, which wero not in good condition, ( On February 8th, we proceeded south, marching by night and resting by day. Tho weather was exception ally bad but tho surfaco Improved. Tho three' weakest ponies woro Bent bock, but these unfortunately were caught in another bad blizzard and two succumbed. With tho remaining ponies and tho dogs wo reached lati tude 70 degrees on tho 16th, when I decided owing to the condition of , the wo?tber and the animals to make a depot hero and return. Wo left in'oro than n ton of stores at this point which wo named Ono Ton Camp and which should bo a great holp to us thin season. Wo then returned to our Flaso Camp with dog toamB. At Baso camp I found every sin gle pony well, and visiting Hut Point I received newB of tho Terra Nova and Fram. On February 24, with nion on skis, and a slnglo pony, I started to tako nioro stores to Corner camp. On tho outward journey wo passed re turning points going well. Returning from Cornor camp, I was hold up by a blizzard on tho 27th but reached Dase camp on tho 28th, I found tho storm had been phenomenal at this place, raging for threo' days and causing enormous accumulation of snow drifts. Shifts of wind had baffled all efforts to shelter the ponies with snow walls and the animals had Buffered very badly, so I decided to retire to Hut Point without delay. Wilson and Mears, driving dog teams, reached Hut Point in safety. Oatcs, Crcan and I remained to try and savo ono pony which had boon badly hit by the blizzard, whilst Bowers, Cherry Garrard and Crean, with the four best ponies, set out to follow the dogs. Nearlng Hut Point they found badly working cracks in tho sea ice, and hastily turned and marched four miles south. A Close Call. There at 2 a. m., on March 1, tho tired condition of the ponies obliged tho party to camp at 4:30. Bowers, awakened by a noise, found tho Ice broken all around tho camp, and mov ing with the heavy swell. Ono pony had disappeared from the picketing line and was not seen again. Hastily packing their sledgeB, the party decid ed to try and work southwest over the packed ice. With Infinite diffi culty tho sledges were dragged, the ponies jumping from floe to floe to ward tho barrier. About noon the party nearcd the barrier but found Its ice wall uncllmbable and the swell churning and breaklnng heavy floes against It. In this dolcmma Crean was allowed to attempt to obtain help. Ho traveled east over tho mov ing pack to find a break In the lco wall nnd eventually hoisted himself to the bnrrier surface by wedging his ski stick In a crack. ' Ignorant of these events, after falling to savo our sick pony, my own party had reached tho barrier where the Ice, breaking undor foot, forced us to retreat hurriedly with the gruvest anxiety for our companions. .My fears wore confirmed when Wil son who had traveled out over land reported having seen with glasses ponies adrift on sea Ice. An hour later Crean was seen npproachlng, and lenmlng his news, OateB, Croan and 1 set off Immediately to tho west. Working around tho bay we approach ed tho barrier odgo and at C p. m., oy good fortune, discovered tho miss ing ptrty on a pack which hnd been drifting slowly northwest and had tem porarily stopped owing to the swell subsiding. With Alpine ropes the men were rescued with dlfllculty. Working on through tho night wo succeeded In salving tho Bledges nnd their loads, but could do nothing for tho ponies which woro only thirty yards away. At 4 a. m. tho pack began to move again. Wo left the ponies with full noso bags and rested till 8 n. m. when tho pack was again stationery. - Wo marched north, found tho ponies, and made despcrato efforts to save them. Bowers and Oatcs risked a long detour over tho pack and led the animals ocr many jumps whilo tho remainder of us dug a trench to the lower part of the barrier. Tho edges of tho floes were high above water and very uneven. Killer whales hung about within a fow yards. The ponies falling nt the jump were Irrotrlovably lost. Ono pony only won through. Tho pack was moving again as wo left it and drifted clear to the north. More Ponies Lost. On March 4 we ascended hills east of Castle Rock, and on tho fifth the party with tho two remaining ponies and tho dog teams was safely housed at Hut Point. By this Incident wo lost threo of our strongest ponies. This was a severe blow to the expe dition, but not enough to wreck its plans If the remaining animals could bo preserved. Tho heavy swell which caused this disaster broke more than ten miles of sea ice, large fragments from the barrier, and two mllos of glacier tongue a feature which had remained otherwise un changed s'.nco discovery, in 1902. Tho Hut was found almost completely fill ed with hard Bnow, tho wlndowB broken and the door unhinged. With much labor we cleared and repaired It. It then afforded good shelter. While forced to wait for tho sea breezo to blow over we settled down to a very primitive life. Preparing For the Winter. On March 17 Lieutenant Evans led a party to Corner Camp, completing the depot arrangements for the com ing season. The temperature at the barrier had already fallen to minus 40 degrees. Throughout the month Ice continually formed over the sea but the strong winds quickly drove It out After March 25 the ice remain ed fast In tho sheltered bays but continued to drive out of the sound. Hugo land ice falls on the southwest slopos of Mount Erebus prevented any possibility of returning to Capo Evans by Innd, but with the freezing of tho bays I decided to make an attempt to reach tho station, partly by land and partly by sea ice. With eight companions I started, on April 11, and although caught by a storm on sea lco, wo reached Capo Evans early on the 13th. We found tho station, which had beon left In Simpson's charge, in excouent order, ana ar rangements for comfort remarkably perfect. Numerous self-recording in struments were in full swing, and all records complete to date, All the news wns good excopt tho loss of one of the nlno lcmalnlng ponies and ono dog. During our absence there hnd boon much wind, tho mean velocity for two months being twenty-four miles per hour. For 19 porccnt of tho whole tlmo tho wind had been over galo In strength. All observations pointed to an exceptionally severo season. On April 17 I returned to Hut Point with a fresh sledgo party carrying supplies and stores. As It was im possible for animals to travel on tho route taken, I loft Meares and five others in chargo of those at Hut Point and again returned to Cape Evans on April 30. Sea lco continued to drlvo out of sounds until tho first week In May. It was not until May 13, three weeks after tho Run had gone that tho men and animals left Hut Point nnd safely lotutued io tho main sta - - i.iJ.. r- . -".J-ii i-Biii iiMi tion. Tho sound froze solid in Mny and latctf In winter packed Ice ex tended to an unprecedented distance northward, despite numerous gales. After the return from the absentees we settled down very comfortably In our winter hut, Hb arrangements for lighting, heating, cooking and ventilation proved eminently satisfac tory, A comfortable stablo had been built for the ponies and some shelter Improvised for tho dogs during the four winter months. The temperature at tho station was rarely below, mlniiB, 40 degrees, at lowest minus CO degrees. Tho wind averaged 15 miles nn hour, but sometimes blow hard with the ternpornturo minim 30 degrees. Everyone was very fully occupied with station and scientific work, exorcising animals, etc. A scries of lectin oh wan organized and football was plajed io within a month of mid-winter. Frequent vIsUb woro made to Cape Royds and Hut Point. Tho animals steadily Improved In condition. On Juno 27th, mlddlo winter, Wilson, Bowers, Cherry and Gerrard Btnrted on n Blcdgo Journoy to Capo Crolor, to obscrvo tho Incubation of Emperor Penguins at their rookery. Very heavy Burfnco on tho barrier forced the party to rolny work during tho main part nnd a fortnight wob taken on tho outward Journey. Tho tempcraturo was Boiuom nbovo minus 60 degrees and often minus 70 degrees, tho low est observed with a sling thermometer being mlmiB 77 degrees. Behind a land'rldgo on the slopes of Mount Terror, tho party spent three days building n stone hut on which they roofod with canvas from this camp. Tho men had great dlfllculty In crossing tho huge barrier pressuro ridges In tho dim noon twilight to reach tho rookery. They were sue cescful nt n second attempt. They found comparatively fow birds nt tho rookery, but theso had begun to lay even nt this enrly dato. Fortunntely sonio eggB at different stages of de velopment woro secured which should glvo considerable Information con cerning tho embryology of this Inter esting bird. Tho same night a violent galo commenced and the ridge proved Inadequate shelter from tho hurri cane gusts which whirled down on tho hut. A tent nnd other carefully secured articles were blown away, and after straining for 14 hours tho roof of tho hut flow to ribbons. For 30 hours moro tho travelers were con fined In tholr frozen Bleeping beds half burled beneath Bnow and lock debris. Forty-eight hours elapsed bo fore tho wind decreased and they were nblo to got a meal. Searching for lost articles they wero fortunate In finding tho mlsBlng tent among some moralnlc boulders, practically uninjured. Tho Btato of their equipment now forced them to turn homeward, on tho roturn journey they were held for two days by another storm after which tho ternpornturo fell and ro mnincd below minus GO degrees. The party returned after five days absence Incased in lco nnd suffering from want of sloop but otherwise well. On September first Meares and MImlntrl, with dog, teams made their headquarters at Hut Point tho dogs leaving for that depot in splendid form. At Intervals since our arrival, howover, some obscure disease has robbed us of four excellent dogs. In every case the dog attacked appeared vigorously healthy, but died In a few hours. It is thought the cause must bo somo mlnuto thread worm enter ing the brain. First Antarctic Telephone Line. At the end of tho month telephone communication was established with Hut Point through 15 miles of bare wire. This telephone has already proved extremely useful for reporting the movement of parties, pending changes of wea'ther. With Bowers, Simpson and Petty Officer Evans, I traveled west on September 15, Ascending Ferrar Glacier, we found by stakes planted by Wright that the ice stream had moved 30 feet in seven months. Later, 45 miles northwest of our sta tion, wo found part of the glacier tongue broken in March with the for age depot left by Campbell intact. Owing to work at the station and the need of increasing exercise for the ponies we have been unable to under take further spring journeys. Start Delayed to Cave Ponies. All plans and preparations for the southern journey are now complete and desplto the accident of last sea son wo have great hope of success. The necessity of getting the utmost out of our remaining ponies has de cldedtme not to expose them to great cold. We shall therefore start later than ordinarily intended, The motor sledgo party consisting of Lieut. Evans, Baq, Lashley nnd Hooper, started five dayB ago, with two motor sledges dragging fuel and forngo. Tho motors experienced un expected dlfllculty on sea lco whoro It wns very thinly covered with Bnow, but wero last seen going well on the surface of tho bnrrier beyond the Bubo Camp of last season. They have therefore, placed tho possibilities of motor traction beyond question. The pony party consisting of my self with Wilson, Oates, Bowers, Chorry, Garrard, Atkinson, Wright, Evans, Croan and Koohane, will start about November first. Independently of the success of the motors, ponies will bo worked with light loads, in easy marches to Corner Camp with full loads and easy marches to One Ton Cnmp and with such pressuro aB noccssary thoroaftor. Dog teams starting will rejoin us nt Ono Ton Camp nnd help to ndvanco loads. By theso menns we hope to got .10 units of food to tho foot of Ifcardmore glacier, n unit being n wcoK'b pro UM-TiK.arMriittirTSMMMlsMMBsMB vision for four men. Then with three divisions of four men and 21 units of provisions, I hope to extend the ad vance to the required distance if the weather conditions aro not wholly un favorable. Of tho ten remaining ponies one is unreliable and ono doubtful, the re mainder being In very flno form. Of ficers and men aro In splendid health, nnd engcr to go forward. TJwlng to my decision to postpono thcro Is nn obvious chnnco that tho most ad vanced southerly party will bo unable to catch tho Terra Nova before sho Is forced to quit tho sound. Under theso conditions, having regard to Impoitant scientific work done and lacllltlcs offered for furthor work, I have de cided to maintain tho station for a second year. Tho majority of the shore party w;ill probably remain but dctnlls depend upon tho dato of our returning from our Journey on home news, nnd the extent of fresh trans port provided. I shall greatly regret tho departure of any member, ns wo havo lived In the happiest social ac cord. Pouting probably returns with n largo batch of photograph rmiterinl to which n second year might add lit tlo of Importance Owing to Pontlng, the photographic results of tho expedi tion are n most rcmnrknblo series of cinematographic pictures, giving a comprehensive record of our polar life. Tho plans arranged for tho scientific work of the expedition have succeeded bo far nlmost in their en tirety. November 24, latitude 81.15 S Wo left Hut Point on tho evo of Novem ber 2, having decided to march by night and, rest during tho day to give tho ponies tho benefit of warm day temperatures. Wo reached Corner Camp thlB morning. Traveling iouth for CO miles wo followed the tracits of the motors, then wo found the ma chines abandoned. The party had proceeded onward as directed, weo delayed by a blizzard on the elgnth, but reached Ono Ton Cnmp on tho morning of tho ICth. Tho dog tenras hajl caught ua up Borne dn8 earlier nnd tho wholo party proceeded in company. A days rest was given tho animals nt One Ton Cnmp which wo left on tho 17th. Having regard to tho weight of tho loads, the heavy Burfaccs and limited number of ,pI- mals, I decided to march 15 miles only every night this distance haB has been maintained on bright nights nnd so far as wo can forseo, It should be continued. The ponies aro going very steadily and keeping in condition rcmaiknbly well. The first pony has been shot for expediency but could have trav elled further. The animals have ten pounds of oats and three pounds of oil cako dally. We are hopeful of getting the men's food supply to tho glacier, according to program, without great dlfllculty but 'shull bo a day or two later than anticipated. Wo-found the motor party waiting nt latitude 80'. Two of their number now leave us. Tho boIo cause of the aban donment of tho motors was the over heating of tho air cooled engines. Time did not permit of the defects be ing taken In hand. Tho Bstcm of propulsion of the motors proved en tirely satisfactory. Tho machines dragged their heavy loads over the worBt part of the barrier service and crossed several crovasses. Consider ing lnadequato trial, their success has been remarkable. With the experience now gained a reliable tractor could bo constructed which could travel anywhere in this region and save the sacrlflco of ani mals. Wo are building snow cairns at Intervals of four miles to guide the homeward parties and leaving a week's provisions at every degree of latitude to the barrier. The surface was extremely bad and trying to the ponies up to One Ton Camp, but has been comparatively good since. The greater number of the ponies have been dragging over 650 pounds. , December 10, latitude 83 degrees 15 minutes. After the return of the motor party from latitude 81 degrees 15 minutes wo pushed steadily south hopeful for better weather conditions. A second pony was destroyed at lati tude 82 degrees 10 minutes. A third at latitude 82 degrees 45 minutes and two more near the 83rd parallel. None of these animals were exhausted but wero sacrificed on account of light ening loads nnd as food for dogs. Ab we approached the weather grew worse, snow storms wero frequent, the sky continually overcast and land very rarely visible. Under theso conditions it was most difficult to keep a straight course and maintain steady marches. Tho ponies continued to pull splendidly.. The ex cellent condition they retained under severe work I attribute ontlrely to tho management of Captain Oates. In spite of delays we reached latitude 83 degrees .24 minutes, within twelve miles of Mount Hope, on December 4. We could havo reached the glaclor with five ponies on the following day but for tho Intervention of a souther ly galo which lasted four days, during which we did not sight land, although only a fow mllos away. The wind was very violent at times, a prodigious amount of,6now fell and we had con tinually to dig out ponies and tents. Tho temperature roso to 6 plus 3, the snow molting on our equipment and completely soaking everything with iwator. fNo sucn proiongoa storm hub hitherto been recorded in these re gions in December. , Hard Work In Deep 8now. On tho ninth, after tho storm, elgh teen Inches of wet snow covered the originally soft surface. We could not have bad advanced at ail had not the leading pony worn snow shoes. Tho men hauled on skies. It took fourteen hours without a meal to do eight miles. At tho first halt the ponies were destroyed as we had no mor forage for them. Today we havj come through the pass and desend tng on Beardmore glacier but only with Infinite difficulties and after twelve hours of hard work. The Boft snow brought by the storm con tinued over tho pass. Men on foot sank to their knees nnd sledges Bank to their crossbars continually. Tho dogs have given somo holp but could only bo lightly laden on such a sur face. I send this note by returning teams. The party is very fit but can not keep up tho hours which wo have been working. The storm has al ready cost us flvo days. Its effects may yet delay us further which would bo a serious matter. Otherwise everything has worked as planned. Wo hope to find better conditions as wo advance up tho glacier. Wo aro necessarily dependent on tho weath er nnd the season thus far has been very unpromising. A Struggle to Achieve 5 Miles a Day. December 21, latitude 85 degrees 7 minutes south, longitude 103 degrees 4 minutes east, height about G.80O feet, four miles south, thirty west ot Mount Darwin. Largely as a result of tho storm reported In my last dis patch, the lower reaches of tho glac ier wero filled with torrlbly soft snow. Men on foot sank to the knee at each stop. It would havo been qulto impossiblo to advance had we not pulled on skis. As It was tho run ner surfaco of the sledges proved In adequate. They frequently sank to crossbars, requiring to bo extracted with standing pulls. For four days wo struggled In this morass, scarcely advancing flvo miles a day although working ten to cloven hours. It I difficult to pitch a little harder and wo wero able to push on, still pulling on skis. Wo did not get abreast of the cloudbrenker mountain until the seventh, so that the snow cost us a week's ndvnncc. Since the sixteenth wo havo been ablo to make very good marches working up from thirteen to twenty thrco Btatuto miles por day. By pro gram I arranged to push on from tho eighty-fifth paralel with eight mca and twelvo units of provisions but I hoped to reserve a margin over this. As wo stand wo aro only half a day's, food short on program and should havo a good chance of getting through. Tho weather continues unsatisfactory. Wo hnd to march without sight of laud on occasions. Wo aro getting: lntermlttcn fog In this most crevassed part of tho glacier. Everybody Is in the best of health and spirits. It has been most difficult to select tho returning party of four which car ries this note. Our position consti tutes our upper glacier depot. Com plete depots havo been established on the homeward route. Tho track of tho barrier Is well marked with snow cairns. Tho members going forward aro Scott, Lieutenant Evans, Wilson, Bowers, Oatcs, Lashley, Petty Officer Evans and Crean. Close to the Pole. January 3, 1912, latitude 87.112, height 9.800 feet. After leaving tho upper glacier depot, south of Mount Darwin, I steered southwest two days. This did not keep us clear of pressure ridges and crevasses which occurred frequently nt first and gave us trouble, but wo roso rapidly In alti tude. Probably tho difficult placea were more snowcovered than further eastward. The adopting of this course was mainly felt on tho third and fourth dnys whon owing to our alti tude we got a splendid view of the distribution of tho land masses fring ing the Ice sheet and the arm of lco falls. Slnco leaving the depot our marches havo averaged over fifteen statute miles a day. On Christmas day we were close up to the 86th parallel and the prospect of Christ mas fare gave us an excellent march seventeen miles but the effect was not so happy the following day. The surface grew more difficult as we approached the 87th parallel. On New Year's eve, In latitude 86 de grees, 56 minutes, we dopoted there a unit ot provisions and rebuilt our sledges with new short runners, which remarkable piece of work was performed by the seamen ot thai party under adverse conditions. Al though it cost us nearly a day's march, the change amply repaid us. Wo havo been able to keep up our average and we are now within 150 miles of the pole. Five Going On to the Pole. I am going forward with a party of five men sending three back under Lieutenant Evans with this note. The names and descriptions of tho ndvance party are: Captain Scott, R. N.; Dr. Wilson, chief .of the scientific staff: Captain Oates, Innlskllllng dragoons, In charge of the ponies and mules; Lieutenant Bowers, Royal India marine; commissariat officers; Petty Officer Evans, R. N in chargo of sledges and equipment. The advance party goes forward with a month's provisions and tho prospects of success good, providing tho weather holds and no unforseon obstaclos arise. It has been vory difficult to choose tho advanco party, as everyone was fit and ablo to go forward. Those who returned aro naturally much disappointed. Every one has worked his hnrdest. The weather on tho plateau has been good on tho whole. Tho Bun has novor de sorted us, but tho temperatures aro low now, about minus 20 degrees, and tho wind pretty constant. Howover, we are excellently equipped for such conditions and tho wind undoubtedly Improves the surface so far all ar rangements have worked out most satisfactorily. It is more than prob ablo that no furthor news will be received from us this year as our r. turn must necessarily bo late. ROBERT F. SCOTT. &&&3t fcMHBIWBSttfeW WifgftHM i .' 'I .