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MADE tho 300 miles
Journey up to David,
the capital of the
Province of Chlrlqul,
In a coasting Btcaroor
of the house-boat
type, with open lowet
desk and galvanized
Iron roof over all
20 feet out of water
and only G feet draft
with full load.
David was founded
somewhat more than
a century ago by the
the first of the Pana
man Obaldlas, who
created a princely
estate from a royal grant of land.
Mangote, situated about 8 miles from
the town, Is now In the hands of his
great-grandsons, whose fathor was
lately president of the republic. Be
fore tho revolutionary days many
Chlrlcano landowners maintained a
lordly estato In peace and prosperity.
David Is an attractive place, clean
and orderly as a Dutch burg and pic
turesque as a Tyrolean hamlet Along
the broad, drab lengths of the Btreets
ore lined modest dwellings with
Whitewashed walls, red-tiled roofs, and
blue and green doorB and window
ahuttcrs. Tho most protentlous resi
dences are no moro than twohtorlcd
frame structures, with 10 rooms at
most and a patio In tho rear. Of the
5,000 Inhabitants perhaps CO are "well
to do," In tbo conventional sense of
the phrase. The remainder nro super
latively poor, measured by the stand
ard of dollars and cents, but passing
rich tn fact by reason of having
everything that they need and probably all they
Jeslro. Everyone eeemB to secure an easy live
lihood, but precisely how Is difficult to determine.
A hard. worker Is not to be seen, but neither Is
a beggar nor a vagrant, and the municipality does
not boast any such institution as an almshouse.
However, the matter Is divested of much of Its
mystery when one considers that land as prolific
as any In the 'world is to be' had for the taking,
and a man's outfit of clothing consists of three
pieces straw hat, shirt, and cotton .trousers
while a woman gets along very well with one gar
ment, and children are not encumbered to that
extent '
Although the dry season was well-nigh spent,
everything looked fresh and green tho morning
that I galloped out upon tho llano on my way to
Dlvnla. My moso, a long, lean fellow with a
melancholy visage, followed at a pace which ho
never varied, but which later experience taught
me could always bo depended on to bring him
up with mo at the end of a ride. Man. never
possessed a less appropriate name than his.
Pnntaleon "panther Hon" was possibly be
stowed upon him in a spirit of Irony. He was
profoundly self-possessed and had tho commend
able characteristic of confining his attention to
his own business and Just so much of his em
ployer's as properly concerned him.
Deforo us stretched one of the llanos, which
lie, like grassy Islands In a forest sea, at Intervals
all along the Pacific slope of the Cordillera. For
C miles onward and 2 on either side of us tbo
ground extended In a sweep as level as a billiard
table and as green. With Its thick covering of
Jenjebrlllo, the tract looked strikingly, like a bit
of the blue-grass country of Kentucky. Here and
there a wild fig pr a celbo threw Its heavy-leafed
branches wide, affording grateful shelter for man
"and beast. On every side the close ranks of the
forest trees hemmed tbe llano In, and away be
yond In nur front rose the Jabbed teeth of tbe
sierra, with the smoking cone of El Volcan pro
jecting beyond the ruck.
A well-worn crack Indicates the shortest route
to the point where the road enters the forest
Wo keep It In sight for tbe sake of preserving
cur bearing, otherwise one might ride unrestraln-
" edly on the darkest night over this flat expanse,
" unbroken by gullies and devoid of burrows. In
fact, I have crossed It at a hand gallop In a
downpour of rain, when my horse's ears' were not
distinguishable and tbe blurred lights of David
made a lurid beacon patch In the distance.
These llanos are tbe "commons" of tho people
tbe poor man's gracing ground. We pass small
herds of from 10 to 20 head, nibbling the, herbage,
which Is ample for sustenance hut' not sufficiently
rlob and plentiful to condition them for market
Scattered over the range are a few mares, with
foals at their heels. In this country they ride
and work only the male horses, leaving the fe
males constantly at grass. This Is obviously a
bad system, for It retards hereditary transmission
' and results In the development of serviceable
qualities on one side only. The animals are un
dersized and the breed poor, the best strain being
derived from Peruvian stallions. Despite his un
promising appearance, however, the Panamanian
pony Is apt to surprise you with a wonderful dis
play of stamina. I have been carried fifty-odd
miles by one In twelve hours and found him fit
for a good day's Journey the next morning. Tbey
are easy-going beasts, with a single-foot gait, and
If one will be content to ride them In the manner
to which they are accustomed, quite as service
able as the average mount to be picked up la
Central or South America. It Is distinctly advis
able, however, to get rid of the greasy halt bridle
of tbe country, even though no abetter substitute
than a piece of clean rope Is available. Failure
to take this precaution onco cost me a sore hand
of which I was not cured for weeks.
Now and again a traveler Jogs by, with a mut
tered "Qucnos dlas" a salutation that Is never
omitted by man, woman or child. The rider
wears a conical straw hat, a cotton shirt, flap
ping froe In the wind, and a pair of blue Jeans.
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V7
DRESS OF THE ESKIMO WOMEN
Their Apparer Is the Same Summer
and Winter and Is Worn In
the Same Way.
Now York. The dress of tho Eski
mo women Is the snrao summer nnd
winter, and Is worn In tho same wny,
writes Anna Blslrup, wife of tho Dan
ish governor of Greenland, In The
Century. It consists first of a shift
which, in eptto of tho natno, Is, never
theless, not Bhlftcil very often ninilo
of common cotton stuff, nnd cut In the
simplest posslblo form, with no em
broideries. Over this they wear the
32
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Bare feet are stuck in the wooden stirrups. He
and his steed are festooned with bags, baskets
nnd packages, the tout ensemblo suggesting an
Itinerant Christmas treo. Stuck under the saddle
flap, or elsewhere beyond ready reach, Is a rifle
or shotgun, of ancient make, probably unservice-'
able, and almost certainly unloaded. Everyone'
goes armed upon tho road.
Occasional reminders of less peaceful -times
are seen in a small wooden cross set In the
ground nnd surrounded by a rude rail fence, Indi
cating the spot where some unfortunato met a
violent death In the commission of a crime. Pan
taleon rode alongside as I approached one of
theso unconsecrated burying places that contained
two crosses With emotionless precision he told
tho grizzly talo of two compadres who bad fallen
out and hero had fought to tbe death wltb their
knives,
Compadres are bosom companions, bound by a
bond closer than that of brotherhood. Only a
woman can break that tie, and when compadre
turns against compadre bell knows no greater
bitterness. These two hacked each other until
they fell, gasping and bleeding," and foaming at
the mouth, still Jabbing with waning strength.
They were found dead, locked In each other's
arms. Perhaps at the very last tbe spirit of com-
padresblp returned to soothe their passing.
I put this reflection to Pantaleon, but he de
clared U more likely that they died cursing each
other and thinking of (he girl. My own conclu
sion pleased me better, but I felt bound to defer
to my moao's superior knowledge of the charac
teristics of bis countrymen.
Presently the road entered the monte, and we
rode between wooden walls reinforced by heavy
undergrowth. At long Intervals we passed small
clearings where the settlor had cut over the
ground, burned the debris where It fell, and Scat
tered his seed with a careless, confident hand.
The machete Is the universal agricultural Imple
ment. A plow has never been seen In the coun
try. Cultivation Is neglected as an unnecessary
trouble. Withal, harvests are bounteous and re
cur with the Infallible regularity of the solar sys
tem. I saw fields of sugar cane that'had yielded
rich crops for fifteen unbroken seasons, and a
piece of land which has stood In corn contin
uously for half a century.
. All over tbe Pacific slope of Chlrlqul Is a top
soil, from 0 to 20 feet thick, formed by the vol
ages from tbe mountain sides. It Is ricb as any
In tbe world, but not one-hundred-thousandtb part
of It baa been turned to tbe account of mas.
Outside of David, the population Is less thaa four
to the square mile. -Apart from a score of cattle
raisers and coffee growers, no man produces more
than enough to meet his needs, whilst markets at
their very doors are crying aloud for the poten
tial products of the province. Panama Is paying
high prices for Jamaican fruit and Cuban sugar
and American tobacco, whilst these and many oth
er Imported commodities can be grown within
her borders:
Tbe pathetic mystery of It Is that tens of thou
sands are slaving in city sweatshops and facto
ries, or painfully wringing a living from a reluc
tant soil, when land unlimited lies waiting to
richly reward any man who will cast a handful of
seed upon It
Tea miles out from David we came to Alaaje,
a pueblo of only a few hundred In
habitants, but a place of considera
tion In this sparsely settled country.
Thero nro no hotels In tho Interior,
nor Is there need for them whore ev
ery door Is open to the wayfarer. The
first glnnco around tho plnza of
Alnnjo will dccldo tho discriminating
stranger to head for tho comfortable
looking franio house on tho south
side, with Its inviting veranda. Should
ho not Immediately tako that direc
tion, tho llttlo cura, In his long black
robe, Is likely to como to tho door'and
shout a welcome.
The mid-day breakfast at tho cural
was an excellent meal, reinforced by
good wlno nnd superb coffee. The
pleasures of the occasion woro height
ened by tho entertaining rcmnrks of
my lively host. Ho was very young
and very optimistic, qulto content
with hla lot and properly Impressed
with the Importance of his work. It
appeared to mo that his life must bo
a lonely nnd monotonous one, but he
did not share my view of it He was
tho only man or any education In tho village, but
two highways and Beveral byways converge at
Alanje, and every few days ho might look for a
passim visit from some intelligent traveler. Ills
duties occupied thrco or four hours of tho day
nnd the rest of the time bo filled tn with study,
for his ambition pointed to advancement tn his
calling, whilst IiIb envlronmont had awakonod an
Inherent taste for natural history.
We left the table to walk over to tho church,
with Its curious detached tower. I asked for the
records. With righteous Indignation blazing In bis
eyes, the llttlo cura laid before me a pile of leather-covered
manuscripts, molded, worm-eaten, and
torn. Not a page was Intact hardly two consecu
tive lines legible.
"Such neglect Is crime," Bnid my host, fer
vently. "I neod hardly say that tho damngo was
beyond nrrest when these camo Into my hands."
I fully appreciated his feelings. Indeed, I daro
say that my own regret was tho keener. Alanjo
is older than David. In fact, Its history morgos
with tho times of the Conqulstadores and thero Is
no knowing what wondrous1 tnlcs may bo hidden
In those sadly mutilated documents.
"Our church has a legend," remarked tho euro,
leading me to a largo alcovo on tho left of tho
chancel. Drawing BBldo n curtain, ho revealed a
life sized painting of tho Christ In his final agony.
It waB evidently the work of an artist, but did
not betray extraordinary ability.
"I don't know when this came hero, but It was
certainly before tho present generation," the
cura explained, with a slight show of embarrass
ment. "The story goes that one evening a
stranger came to the vlllago and, declining shel
ter elsewhere, begged to be locked alone In the
church over night. His request was granted.
When" the curious villagers came early In the
morning to look for htm he had gone, and the pic
ture, with the paint fresh and wet, hung where
you see It"
I looked at the little cura questlonlngly.
"Ob, I don't know," he said, with a shame
faced smile and a shrug of the shudders. "At
any rate, my people believe tbe story firmly, and
It does them no harm."
On the road between Alanjo and Dlvala we
crossed several streams. A better watered coun
try than this could not well bo Imagined.
Dlvala Is a little settlement of 50 to 60 huts
and, perhaps, 300 Inhabitants, who are entirely
dependent upon the ranch and Insure It a con
stant BUpply of labor. The people cultivate little
.patches, from which they derive almost all the
foodstuffs they need. A few weeks' work tn the
year at 60 cents a day will produce enough money
for clothing and a moderate Indulgence In tho
luxuries that are to be bad at tho vlllago trading
store. -
Dlvala Is 15 miles from anywhere, but the most
unlikely place to look for an American family In
a bungalow that has the appearance of having
been transplanted from a New Jersey suburb.
Mrs. Wilson has lived In this out-of-the-wny cor
ner of tho earth for five years, and has had the
companionship of her Infant during tbe past
eighteen months. There Is not a woman of her
own race within 40 miles. This Is Isolation, in
deed, and I suspected that she must And it Irk
some, though she would not admit as much,
Twelve years ago Leslie Wilson came out from
California and settled In tTTe neighborhood of Dl
vala with half a dozen Americans and Britishers.
Thus tbe settlement, of Dlvala was formed and a
large proportion of the ranch turned Into Potrero
without a penny of outlay, Tbe disturbed condi
tion of the country reduced tho prices of all prop
erty, and Wilson was able to buy the nucleus of
his stock at very low figures.
The owner of Dlvala has worked hard and In
telligently for tea, years on tho Improvement of
bis property, Today he has 5,000 acres of as fine
land as any In Cfelrlqul, well stocked and fur
nlshed with all tbe necessary buildings. The
ranch Is easily worth $50,000. Not a 'bad result
of an enterprise started twelve years ago with
9200 capital
Loss of Appetite
Is loss of vltnllly, vigor or tone, and le
often a forerunner of prostrating disease.
It is serious and especially so to pee
Clo that must keep tip and doing or gtt
cliindhand.
Tlio Iwst inctllcino to lata for It is the
great constitutional remedy
Hood's Sarsaparllla
Which a purifies and cnriclicn the blood
and build up tho wholo system.
Oct it today In usual liquid form or
:hocolaled tablets called 8arsatnb8.
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Eskimo Girl In Full Dress.
Umiak, or bird's skin, with Its colored
cotton stuff for dally uso, and woolen,
silk or velveteen for Sundays and holi
days. Tho hood Is never used by the
women, who always leavo It hanging
down. Around tho neck tho young
girls wear a collar more than a quarter-yard
wldo, made of glass pearls,
set In tho most varied patterns. This
pearl collar Is worn only by young
girls, nnd by wives until they hnvo
got their first child. After that, the
pcarlB aro used as fringes and tassels
for tho nmaut.
Tho pot garments of tho girls, and
of married women, too, aro the
brooches and tho kamlks. They take
much tlmo to make theso garments as
fine as possible. The breeches, which
aro worn noxt .the bare body, are
mado of coBtly sealskins or reindeer
skins. They are not fastoned to the
body by anything, but their stiffness
keeps them In place. Tbe Greenland
ers know nothing of buttons or hooks
or buckles or braces, at least on the
women's garments.
Tbe knmlks consist of an Inner
stocking of skin with tho hnlr Inside,
and nn outer boot made of dyed or
pointed skin In tbe most Bcroochlng
colors-brlght red, blue, violet The
most valued aro tho white half-boots
which aro used on Sundays, holidays
and on certain occasions like mar
riages. The solo of tho kamlk Is not
hard and stiff, but soft and pliable.
Between tho soles of tho Inner and
outer kamlk Is a layer of straw, that
overy day must be taken out and
dried.
The hair-top, the national head
dress, Is the darling of every young
girl, and Is put up twice or thrlco a
week. It Is not taken down at night
and the women slcop with tho top
hanging out over the pillow's edgo,
which 'looks exceedingly funny if one
hnppens Into a sleeping-room at night
Round tho top aro wound ribbons of
different colors, like standards, an
nouncing tbe state of their bearers.
Tho wives wear blue In all Bhades,
the maidens red, the unmarried moth
ers green In all shades, and the wid
ows wear black. All other colors are
forbidden. In front they like to fas
ten on tbe ribbon some shining object
a brooch or an old ear-ting. For lack
of other things, they will pin on, a
niece of colored sliver or gold paper
To get tbe top firm and stiff, the bait I
must be drawn very tight. In some
the hair on each side of the head Is
torn out, and two large bald spots ap
pear, which are not very becoming.
STEAL $21,000 IN TOWELS
Passengers on the .Southern Pacific
Railway Also Take Linen
From Boats.
San Francisco, Cat Twenty-oni
thousand dollars' worth of toweli
were "lost" by tho Southern Pacific
railroad last year and for that reasor
women who ride on. Its trains anc
boats will be compelled to furnish
their own towelB hereafter. Tbe tow
els were stolen from tbe washrooms
on tbe trains and boats, as many as a
'hundred towels disappearing on on
run. Even roller towels were taken
tbougb tho company padlocked U
racks to keep them from being re
moved. The towel thieves simply cut
the towels and slipped them off. In
dividual towels disappeared so fasl
that they were replaced with roller!
after being used but a short time.
Tho Hospital Doctor What did the
farmer say when you tell out of hla
barn and broko your arm?
Tramp Didn't say nothln'. He
wuz too busy a-laughln'.
Ruskln Pitied Americans.
It Is not only tho half million
bricks of Tattershall that have been
numbered for trans-shipment across
the Atlantic. Ruskln, when he was a
boy, pitied the Americans for being
eo unhappy as to live In a country
that has no castles. They will have a
castle now, and no nation likes to
be pitied. But tho other Importation,
mado by Mrs. Gardner as an addition
to her Italian villa noar Boston, was
that of an entire chapel as It stands,
with nil Its Interior furnishings, even
to tho hnlf-burned candles In the al
tar. Tho monks who served the
chapel had been scattered by the
strong band of the law, and the
building was to be devoted to the
pick ax. Tbe courageous American
lady had It packed up In a Venotlan
hill country, where It stood, and car
ried down piecemeal and embarked.
London Chronicle.
Small Circulation.
Shopman Hero Is a very nice thing
In revolving bookcasos, madam.
Mrs. Nowrlch Oh, aro thdso revolv
ing bookcases? I thought they called
them circulating libraries, Christian
Register.
Prudent men look up their motives,
lotting familiars have a key to their
hearts as to their gardens. Shen-stone.
Ssss a Cure In Poetry.
Louisville. Ky. "Poetry-has as prae
tlcal value as vaccination," declared
Rev. Dr. B. Y. Mulllns, president or tn
Southern Baptist Theological seminar)
bereMn an address to a local literary
club. Duly read and appreciated, tin
said poetry Is a real euro for the dls
eases which attend tbo feverish quest
for gold.- This virtue, he reasons, lie
In the fact that thorough enjoyment
ef It demands relaxation.
THE TEA PENALTY,
'A Strong Man's Experience.
Writing from a busy railroad town
tbe wife of an employe of one of the
great roads says:
"My husband Is a railroad man who
has been so much benefited by the use
of Postum that be wishes me to ex
press his thanks to you for tbe good
It has done him. His waking hours
are taken up wltb his work, and he
baa no time to write himself.
"He has been a great tea drinker
all bis life and has always liked It
strong.
"Tea has, of late years, acted on
bim like morphine does upon most
people At first it soothed him, but
only for an hour or so, then It begaa
to affect his nerves to such an extent
that he could not sleep at night, and
be would go to bis work In the morn
ing wretchod and miserable from the
loss of rest. This condition grew con
stantly worse, until his 'friends per
suaded him. some four months ago, to
quit tea .and use Postum.
"At first be used Postum only for
breakfast, but as he liked the taste ot
It, and It somehow seemed to do hint
good, he added It to his evening meal.
Then, as be grew better, he began to
drink it for his noon meal, and now
he will drink nothing else at table.
"His condition Is so wonderfully Im
proved that he could not be hired to
give up Postum and go back to tea.
His nerves have become steady an4
reliable once more, and his sleep la
easy, natural and refreshing.
He owes all this to Postum, for ha
has taken no medicine and made na
other change In his diet.
"His brother, who was very nervous
from coffee-drlnklng, was persuaded
by us to give up'tht coffee and use
Postum and he also has recovered hla
health and strength." Name given by
PoBtum Co., Battle Creek, Mich.
Read the little book, "The Road to
Wellvllle," In pkgs. "There's a reason."
Ever read the abeve letter? A w
fine !nr ires ttoie ttM. They
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