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About The Red Cloud chief. (Red Cloud, Webster Co., Neb.) 1873-1923 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 19, 1897)
..... .- , vh&.wimmJi& m.m!nawiMmTnktAimi9GISStWtil, yfWWWW'SS'-ii? A THE RED CLOUD CHIEF, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY I9 1897. l! ft mmmrm o?r WDAIA &wl- ..&ew ; J&3 . ri ....jw - '-St 5" tnph..rb' .. w ... -, - OODfcYS; Off a u... yjM U., MS!3&U w w ifii a'Ww1i e eriS5ll 1 lv w I'i&m jspyiai vs;e iltesr If the history of womankind lind be gun with her as hUo seemed In 1830, nnd ended with her its she appeared "In 1850 nnd thereabout, the nccount would offer fine argument against the higher education of women. Fortunate ly history goes on, nnd he who will may rend It. Tho lady of 1830 wns meek. Ignorant, nnd lovely to look nt, If you can forget her relaxed shoulders and wee mouth. Tho Indy-womnn of 1850 has started out to pet an education. Tho pretty wnys of 1830 arc becoming mem ories, and I really have had to search for nttrnctlvo pictures of women In the middle of the century. A little learning over has been a hazardous quantity. Our Hlster of 18C0 Is our Bister of 1830 undone the cnd-of-thc-ccntury woman In rudiment. Ab wns nnturnl with the first Intima tion that woman Is not a toy, that she Is a factor In world-making, a force townrd tho good time always coming, tho immediate effect of this knowledge became the cschowlng by the moro In tense, of fomlnlno material vanities. Pretty curls, as soon ns women began to think, were snatched from their cud dling plnco by chcok-sldes and brushed flatly to the head. Pelerines nnd grace ful fichus wcro renounced In favor of straight lines In stiff fubrlc3. Skirts, however, In tho 40s and on, aa It In rebellion from the reforms that wcro going on above the waist, larg ened. Between 1835, say, nnd 1S9G-97. wticn, as In 1830, wo ngnln are enjoy ing u moderation In mode and a reign of comparative tnsto, tho outlines In wo'mnn's dress havo expanded nnd con tracted with persistent though varying disregard of tho figures beneath. Tho study of consecutive fashion nnd demeanor makes, In somo Bort, ovolu tlonlsts of most persons. Euch century, ns our nlnotccnth, has had Its crudities and vulgarities of modu and manner. Yet It will bo found, I think, thnt enor mities In dress accompany tho quicken ing of new thoughts nnd the ripening of types thnt novcr were before. When woman's dress Is rcnHonnblc, beautiful, and graceful, tho times arc in her favor a little resplto Is at hxnd. Her Idcnls and powers of exprcssoln nro tolerably equivalent. Tho costume of tho nlne-teenth-contury-end hns no mnrked ab surdities; though. In tho spiral of his tory, several gauchorles, such, for ex ample, as tho hoop and the towering hcnd-dreBs, may bo about to come upon us. I feel rather called upon to nsk the reader to think with mo sympathetical ly of tho charm of tho present-day costume, nnd of tho end-of-our-century women, because It scams nntl-cllmatlc, after tho pretty maids and lovely dames of 1830 whom wo viewed in Godoy's for January, 1897, to recall In Fobruary tho less obvious beauty of those who came Just after tho '30s. Tho verltnblo Bhowman entreats: "But wait, ladles and gentlemen; only wait until tho next act. It Is going to lr tho best thing on tho programme." May I ask a would-bo ahowman'B llccnso to bid you wait for tho next number beforo concluding, from thu ac companying text nnd Illustrations, that book-learning spoils women? Tho flrBt argument for wotnen'3 men tal growth was that man could not be come perfect whllo she was ignorant. There wna alight question of advantage to her self and her sex In the use of her brain. So Into as 1842 Qodey's says: "All tho external regulations of gov ernment, all the honors nnd ofllces of public llfo bolong to mon; but to quali fy them for these high nnd responsible duties, thoy must havo tho nld or tho onllghtencd moral sentiment of woman. Sho must be educated wisely In order that man may attain his high est elevation. He never can be wise whllo sho Is Ignorant. Next In honor to tho womnn who "looks well to nor own household" and bo promotes Its best Interests that her 'husband Is known In tho gates when he sltteth nmong tho elders of the land, and her children rlso up and call her blessed,' wo hold that thoBe excellent women who aro at tho head of our female sem inaries should take tholr place." Thero aro many Interesting para graphs upon these subjects. One writ ten 1841, quoted here, gives some In formation. Within tho last fifteen or twenty years more hns been written upon thu necessity nnd advantages of femalo ed ucation than is to bo found In nil litera ture of tho preceding nges since the world begnn; nnd whnt n change, too, In tho stylo of man's writings upon this subject. Instead of the mocking ridicule, or bitter satire, on overy effort of female genluaj ovory uttempt to in spire the sex generally with the hope of some higher atainments in learning, and a more respectable station In social life than merely that of household drudge or pretty trlllor, we now find In almost overy now publication, what ever may bo Its design or character, tho education and Influouco of wo mm: In the destiny of the world consldero as Important subjects. Tho increased facility of ncqulrlu knowledge will Boon mnko It no dis tinction for a woman to be learned; Hit question will be: Does she do any good with her learning? Does her superior Intelligence make her more capable of understanding her duties, more faith c OF- cw,. 1037 K ful In discharging them? Is she n plensantor companion for her husband, a bettor Instructress for he; children, a more competent manager of her house hold? If learning Is of real benefit to woman, It will, It must bo shown In do mestic life. Tho Issuo Is to be tried nt home. The destiny of tho human raco Is thus dependent upon tho condition and conduct of woman. And now, when her condition Is so greatly Improved, her standard of conduct must be pro portionally elevated. Wo do not mean by this thnt sho Is to strive to do rutin's work. Sho has n wide, a noblo sphere of her own; the whole world of do mestic nnd social and moral enjoyments nnd duties Is open to hor. In educa tion, literature, religion, she Is tho companion, In truth, often tho mentor, of tho stronger Bex. Yet Nature nnd Providence hnvo nsalgned to her tho quiet nnd retirement of private life whllo dlcharglng her Important trusts, a station sho should consider a privi lege. Thoy harped on woman's duty nnd rcspectnblllty, mentioning only In brief, maters so ephemeral ns her pleasure and happiness. The picture on this page of this Issue shows that woman In 1837 had come to discredit tho becoming halr-pufflngs nnd sldo face curls of tho years Just preceding. Thero nppears, also, an at tempt at hair decoration which pres ages the close, unbecoming bonnet that distinguished tho '40s. What the fashion did not accomplish In the way of rendering women's necks unlovely by dragging tho little curls nway, was dono by tho bonnet with tho valance. Between 1837 nnd 1840 nothing of rare Interest eventuated In woman's clothing. Fashions continually were getting away from the tasteful lines nnd colorlngB of tho early '30s. Pnrts of costumes wero big or little without rcforenco to others. And, as will bo seen by consulting 'the pictures, In a season when somo women wero dress ing with pitiful severity, othors were tricked out with ribbon-bows nnd mis cellanies. Ono woman was wearing her hair Head-tight, and her lelghbor was arranging here with a frlngo to covor the ears. It Is not possible to speak of tho fashion of this century after 1830 ns distinctly that or this. Women havo followed, and yot aro fol lowing, vagaries In design. So when one refers to tho woman of 1840 or of 1850, or what not, he Burely means one representing tho majority of those who acted or dressed similarly. Mrs. Ca8hel Hooy, writing of women's clothes, says that the ladles of 1840 wore "hesitating sleeves and anyhow bodices." It was In tho '40s that tho congress boot flourished generally, as It does yet In rural districts. Queen Victoria, U seems, bought and wore them with delight. Thoy wero constructed variously of moroco, prunella, cloth, silk, satin, ac cording to the senBon. Congress boots 'nve olastlo side-pieces which are sain o Insure fit nnd comfort Shawls wero tho rage In tho 40b. Primly folded across shoulders that oi st whllo had been uncovered, they wero ugly dres3 accessories. Those large enmoo broches, of which nil our jjreat aunts now hnvo one or more, ther ia; Lr "THB BELLE OF TIE BALL," 1844. u were used to fasten shawls, lurgc and small. Women at that period were wearing their waists Immoderately tight, nnd tllo "ngony" of It was referred to by many of the fashion writers of tho day. Somo of the pictures In this February Isbiio show petty the beltmcasurcs were. Caps In tho '40s wero worn by women young nnd old. There vftjre many modols from which to choose, somo really pretty, though tho tenden cy of them wns to odd years io tho appearance of women. For full toilette, small head-drcssci that were all of lace, or of flowers and lace, or only flowers, were chosen. Tho largo "cot tago" bonnet wns put on for out-door use. I must not forget to repeat that high gowns by thlB time wero worn com monly, replacing those which, earlier, Invnrlably had been low. Dress col ors wore bright; to-day wo .liould think them offensive. One frontispiece shows a woman In a garnet skirt and coat, n peacock-blue bonnet, nnd pea-cck-bhio gloves. Pea green wns prized. Thackeray speaks of Lady Crawley's "brightest pea green" as her gown for great occasions, such as tho visits of Lady Crawley's rich aunt, Miss Craw- ley. Parasols wero smaller than bon nets, nnd were used only In the hope of shading the fnce. In 1842 trains came In for a time, but they wore not worn to balls. It was thought that trains were sultnble only for on tho promenade and for half toilette. This, too, wns tho period when no lady felt dressed If she wns without a lnce Handkerchief held gingerly betwixt her thumb nnd first finger. Lace mitts were in favor. Gloves, from season to senBon, wero long or short. Ono of the cuts showB women In evoulug dress, of which one-button gloves are a fea ture. It will bo noticed, without doubt, that aktrts, slnco the '20s, have length ened. The largeness of them, which the cuts show, wns produced In vari ous ways. One was of wearing ninny cambric petticoats, another by putting hair cloth flounces upon silk or wool foundations; yet another mode was to ill MC fa imJ ltaS ?!&. ik IHmiMk. Mm MlMfR mm WmamKKSt .iAwwzM'T,,r ittibu, itmu'yi'Wi.w.ikii jj, i,int mvevraiv: (W v fZf 111 "THB BRIDE AND BRIDESMAID," 184G. to stiffen the ruffles with steel hoops. Tho great hoop, or crinoline, of recent vulgar history, which wns the natural result of thin sklrt-expandlng, wo shall not consider until next month. It comes a little beyond the dao 1850. Of children nnd their dress thero Is room to say little. Girls look ns If they were mclnncholy nuisances, and they certainly did go about with their pam olettCB showing. While boys, as I sci them, were young prudes or dlvlls In i;arments that wcro moro or less grotjesque. Men have worn the mod ern pantnloon slnco 1830-1832. I low Two lrl Mmle Money. "A country girl who Is determined to go to Paris to study art Is laying nsluo, for this purpose, each dollar sho nasi earned," writes Until Ashmore In an article on "The Girl In the Coun try." "She found that there was no ono clsa In the village who could make as good bread and b.'scult ns she; that those who hnd to buy complained of the baker's bread. She made no effort at Bending her bread to a Woman's Ex chitnce, ns she knew thnt such plnces wero alwnys overstocked, but she went through her own town a very small one nnd. asked for orders. Sho la making money because there hns nov er been a sad loaf of bread or a heavy biscuit sent out from her kitchen. Sho will supply a neighbor with hot bis cuits nt tea time, and she hns lenrned to mnke dainty ruitk, especially for In valids, who enjoy these light, sweet dainties. Her prices are reasonable. "Another girl, ambitious to gain something, got her father to let her havo a bit of ground, and to give her tho money that ho would otherwise have bestowed upon her for a wedding dress. With this alio was able to buy plants nnd to hire a boy to help her; and durlug the summer, while the boarding houses around demanded them, she served the freshest of rad ishes, the crlspest of lettuce, the earli est corn, nnd the largest tomatoes; and' she says now that sho thinks sho will double tho slzo of her garden next summer." l'rlnco llUmurrk nt Home. n Is Impossible over to have been witlilu the Bismarck family clrcio without seeing proofs that the Iron Chancellor Is not all of Iron. I have seen him with nis own children now nil men and women nnd with other children. His affection for his own needs no testimony; he Has always ahow'n It. Ills affection and pride In his eldest son and successor, Count Herbert, aro allko part of his nature. I havo seen Prince Bismarck also with troops of children who came to Frled rlchsruh to visit him. His manner to them was charming, fils outstretched Hanil upon the heads of those nearest to H'lm, tho kindly caress, the sympa thetic greeting these are all so many traits of personal character and of a truo gentleness of nature which the outside world, thinking only of his life of storm and stress, might not ex pect to find. But thero they are. George W. Smalley In Ladles' Homo Journal. IIimv One l'rejudlro. Was Conquered. Five years ago no well-known woman in tho West End would have ridden n bicycle through the streets. This ma chine was then generally considered to bo vulgar. If nny clubman had ridden to his club on a bicycle and chained It to the railings, as hundreds do now, tho committee would have disapproved of his conduct, nnd ho would have been a marked man among his fellow-members for life. Ono winter several Pa risian women of doubtful status com- menccd to cyclo, nnd their exumplo was Immediately followed by the fashion able women of 'hut city, nnd to-day seven men and women out of ton In tho West End of London rldo on this machine through the streets and In tho parks, -London Truth. 1 , ' A buff leghorn pullet exhibited at a New York chicken fair lu 1S92 was valued at M00. HAS COURTED DEATH. TRIEL SUICIDE IN MANY WAYS BUT STILL LIVES. Method of III Lot hut Ktperlmenti Tim C'ntma Win Unrequited Affection Itut He Afterward Married tho nirl. RANK II. CHEES MAN. living at 222 7 Ohio street, South Be rkeley, breaks the local record for suicidal effort, says the San FranclBco Ex n m 1 n e r. E Ight times Hns he at tempted to ferry the Styx and only his last call to tho grim boatman seems likely to attract old Charon's sullen at tention. Cheesmnn's persistence In seeking a ready exit from tho stugo of llfo Is consistent with tho varied meth ods of His lethal experiments. Some of His failures were unique, notably when ho Interrupted the circuit of a llvo electric wire nnd survived the deadly voltage of an alternating cir cuit of innumerable ohms. He has also Bwullowed poison nnd Jumped from tho promenade deck of a Southern Pacific ferryboat. Last Saturday He shot Himself through the lungs, nar rowly missing his heart, and tho doc tors diagnose His symptoms ob fatal. Cheosman's first uttempt on His llfo was sensational. He throw himself from an upper-story window In this city, involving himself in two possibil ities of successful suicide. He hoped In the first Instance to perish on tho wires of an electric light intercepting his descent to the pavement, which ho Imagined would mangle him suffi ciently If the wire should break. It happened thnt the wire wns tenacious and Cheesman was rescued. HIb next adventure was n plunge from a ferryboat, reckoning on tho chronic lethargy of the Southern Pa cific to achieve His purpose. But Chees man could not sink. It Is the custom of tho Southern Pacific officials to ar rest people who jump from their ferry boats and turn them over to tho police. This was the procedure on this occa sion, but Cheesman, while on his way ij the station, drew a knife from His pocket nnd stabbed himself three or four times In the neck. This time His lack of precision as an anatomist saved liltu. After His wounds were dressed they locked Cheesman In a cell, and halt in hour later He was found hanging by his suspenders to the grating in the :clllng. When he recovered his breath suffi ciently to explain Cheesman said he wanted to dlo because Eflle Lambert would not marry Him. A few months later tho old craving came upon him again and he poisoned Himself In the basement of his par ents' home in Lorin. Again the doc tors Interfered, this time with the pump, and Cheesman came up smil ing onco more out of the valley of tho shadow. But Cheesman wns still unsatisfied. Ills desire for death may even bo re garded as Insatiate. A little whllo after tho poisoning episode he climbed upon a windmill loftier than those at which His prototype of La Mancha tilted, and, probably Imagining Him self an airship or a thunderblrd, leap ed head foremost into space. Death at this time was inevitable, but a big dog passed opportunely and Cheesman landed safely on tho animal's back. Tho object of these evidences of an insino regard, thus emphatically im portuned, concluded about this tlmo that Cheesman was in deadly earnest and that he meant what he said when he averred that He would not live with out her. Consequently, on Sept. 28, 1892, Frank H. Cheesman and Effle Lambert were married. In books the romance of life usually ends nt the altar, but in real life it is different, and tho Cheesman tragedy was no exception to the rule of realism. Ho began a new series of tragic episodes by trying to shoot his wife. Falling to do so He knotted a hnndker chlcf about His neck and in the pres ence of his wlfo tried to choke Himself to death. Mrs. Cheesman summoned nsslstanco nnd Her Husband mndo rec ord of his seventh fnllure. His wlfo then left him nnd Chees mnn enmo to Snn Francisco, where ho found a womnn whoso throat He tried to cut. Ho wns nrrested and sent to tho Uklah Insane asylum. Ho 'wbb discharged six months later and ship ped on a man-of-war, but deserted at San Diego nnd returned home. He Had a lucid Interval for seven months, during which Ho worked nt tho tfado of House painter In Oak land. Ho was paid off last Saturday night and went to His homo In South Berkley. He carried his suicidal ten dency with him, nnd with n revolver for tho eight tlmo, nttompted his life. Dr. Rowell wns called nnd locnted tho bullet In Cheesmnn's lung. The doc tor says the wound 1b serious. Italians In tho United States. There are obout 1,000,000 Italians in ,he Unltod States. One-third of them are settled In tho principal cities. Half of these are laborers. Fifty per cent are Illiterate. Thoy are hard und Bteady workers, very saving and anx ious to Improve thomselves. When they have no chance to work at tholr own trade thoy will accept any other kind of work and any wages. Tho Italians hate begging. Has any read er of this ever boen stopped by an Ital ian anU asked for a "nickel"? In tho record of charitable Institutions there are very few Italian names, La Luce Evangellca, Newark, N. J. GEM OF AMERICAN SCENERY. In tlie. Cmendr Mouiitulns of OreRon Mute Known to Toiirlt. Crater lnke, In the Cincadc moun tains of Oregon, Is easily the Jewel of thu northwest, says Science. It Is hoped that means of reaching It will be perfected In the near future, so that It may bo visited by the thousands of tourlBts and others who now content themselves with the Grand canyon of tho Colorado, tho Yellowstone park und the Yosemlte. It can now be reached by good wagon roads from Ashland, Medford and Klamath Falls, but thero nro no regular conveyances or stop ping places. Crater lake Is n beautiful sheet of Indlgo-blue water, ubout six miles In length by four nnd one-half In breadth. It occupies the crater or caldron of nn extinct volcano nnd Is completely surrounded by n precipitous wnll varying from 1,000 to something over 2,000 feet In height. A romnrk nbly perfect nnd symmetrical cinder cone, with a crater at Its summit, forms nn Island Wizard Island which rises 840 fcot nbovo the surfuce of tho lake. The hike was sounded by MaJ. C. E. Dutton In 188G and found to be 2,000 feet In greatest depth. Its surface tem perature Is G9 or CO degrees F. The altitude of the rim of the crater varies from ubout 7,000 to 8,200 feet. Crater Lake mountain Is covered with a mag nificent forest of conifers, arranged In well-marked lielts or zones, from base to summit. The monstrous cones of the red bark fir with their bright red seed wings nnd exserted bracts aro among tho wonders of the vegetable kingdom, while the dark hemlocks with their drooping branches draped In the long Hanging benrds of a blackflsh li chen rank among the glnnts, some of their trunks measuring seventeen artd one-half feot around. Tho Columbia blacktnll deer Is common on tho mount ains nnd furnished our camp with fresh ment. Large trout abound In Klamath lake, nt the south foot of the mountain, and ufford excellent fishing. Klamath lnke Is nlso the resort of thousands of ducks nnd other game. Hence tho sportsman, ns well as the tourist, nat uralist and lover of the grand and beautiful In nature, Is sure to find thu Crator lake region a placo of unusual Interest. For scenic beauty and grand eur Crater lake with Its deep bluo wa ters, walled In by towering cliffs and rugged crags, ranks nmong the gems of American scenery. BEATING FATHER TIME. Tho Mormon ltUhop AViin Frightened at tho Speed. From the Chicago Record: Speed was once demonstrated on a western road In n fashion to curl the hair of at least ono old Mormon bishop. Tho churchman considered It a phenom enon, and got off the (rain us quickly ns he could. He Hnd bull-whaclled ncross tho plains In tho early days, und, strange to say, Had never ridden on a railroad train until the time when He entered upon His trip from Green River to Snn Francisco. The speed was, therefore, a revelation to him. He had never beforo seen anything so swift, and ho was scared. About twelve miles from Ogden ho asked the conductor for the time of day, and was told that It was 7:35. Ho Impressed this time forcibly on his mind. Now, for a wonder, the western connection ut Ogden was quickly made, and after the lapse, of but a few minutes the San Francisco-bound travelers were on their way Callfornlaward, Ogden had been left behind only a few miles, and the train was whooping along at a behind-time rate of speed, when the old bishop, frightened and trembling, dared to ask the conductor what was the time of day. If you Have traveled westward you know that at Ogden tho time changes, and San Francisco time, ono hour earlier, is adopted. Tho con ductor had San Francisco time and ho said: "It Is 7:10 ten minutes after seven." The old bishop, previously haunted by a dread of Impending destruction because of the horrible rate of speed at which he was being whirled through space, rose with a wild cry and made for the door. "Lemmo off!" he cried, "It was 33 minutes after 7 an hour ago, an' wo'ro goln' so fast we arc goln' faster than time can count itself. Lemmo off!" Had ho really, been going as fast as the old man had believed, ho would surely have been beaten to bits ns He Jumped from tho train. As It was, he wns only rolled something llko a half mile, nnd was carried back to Ogdeu on a Handcar. llro.nl Minded. "I'm glnorally disposed tor Bldo weth tho kickers," remarked Meandering Mike; "but I mils' say thot I can't rllo up ez much ez some o' tho folks thot wants ter rub out ov'ythlng this gov er'ment's been a-doln' so long, an' start over agin." "That's a nice way fur a down-trodden victim of capitalistic oppression to talk," exclaimed Plodding Peto, con temptuously. "I tries tor bo fulr. I'm agin wealth. But some o' them fellers Is Job' ez much sot again workln' ez wo are. They'vo inherited wealth through no act of their own, an' I can't bring my. self ter bate a man Jes' because he happened ter be born rich." Washing, ton Star. It en ii It Dliuroved It. "This Is nil rot about pure grit wln nlng success." "How so?" "I Bank a fortune In a grindstone factory." Detroit Free Press, The Colleelltic I'uil. Alice I hear Jeanuette is frattlag a collection of rings. Anita Oh, Is she engaged again? Yonkera Statesman, 1 - -I T H X L.