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JANUARY 10, 1908
The Commoner.
11
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the figure be full or slender. After
adjusting the waist at the shoulders,
have an inch-wide band with the raw
edges turned in, find the center back
and front of the waist line, and if
the waist opens at the back, pin the
center of the tape to the center front
of the waist; if the opening is at
the front, put the centers of the tapx
and back together, then draw the
tape snugly around the waist and pin
it, allowing for a little shrinkage.
Under the arras, the waist should
be kept smooth, with an easy fit and
no pulling, so that when the arras
are raised there will be no pulling
above the belt, or tearing under the
arms.'
For the Homo Seamstress
The neck band of a shirtwaist
should be divided into three equal
parts back, and two fronts.
If the space between the shoulder
seams at the back Is too narrow, it
will cause a "riding up," or hump.
Hooks and eyes should be sewed
in place with a space of one and one
half inches apart with hooks on the
right side, and eyes opposite..
Shoulder seams should always be
straight at the neck-band, and any
alteration should be made toward the
back, or front at the arm hole.
In cutting goods with a nap, some
tailors recommend to cut with the
nap running up, as this will prevent
rubbed spots, and improve appear
ance. Black silk should be sponged with
a strong black tea containing a few
drops of ammonia, and then rolled
while damp very smoothly and tight
ly on a smooth, round stick. It will
thus be greatly improved.
To gather fabrics on a machine
where the ruffler is not used, loosen
the upper tension, stitch the desired
length, then draw the upper thread
straight to the space desired. Tho
gathers will be more even, will re
tain their place better, and distribute
better than with hand running.
In making a placket, cut tho un
derlap double, about one and one
half inches wide when finished, and
allow the underlap to extend one and
one-half Inches below tho placket
opening, joining tho underlap for this
length with the breadth seam. Do
not allow tho goods to pucker whon
sewing. Then turn tho free odge
of the lap over the raw edges of tho
seam and hem down neatly on tho
inside,. Face the overlapping side
with tho same width as that of the
underlap.
To insure tucking on both sides of
a shirtwaist to be exactly alike, take
twice the length of goods required for
one side, fold whore the shoulder
point comes, lay tho front of the pat
tern along the selvedge edge of the
goods and mark with a tracing-wheel,
or pins, just how far tho tucks go;
then tuck the goods the required
length between the marks or pins,
for both sides of the tucked portion.
Make the tucks exactly even as to
length, width and spacing. The same
rule applies when the waist opens
at the back.
For hand-hemming of table-cloths,
or napery, put on the hemmer-attach-ment
of the width desired, but do not
thread the machine. Run tho goods
through the machine just as though
you were sewing, and tho hem will
be evenly turned and ready for hand
hemming. If hemstitched by hand,
draw the threads carefully and baste
the hem down neatly and evenly, then
with the stitch regulated to the do
sired length and without thread,
stitch close to the edge as in ordi
nary hemming. The line of accurate
perforations will be easily followed.
FOUND A WAY
To Bo Clear of tho Coffee Troubles
"Husband and myself both had the
coffee habit and finally his stomach
and kidneys got in such a bad con
dition that he was compelled to give
up a good position Ihat lie had held
for years. He was too sick to work.
His skin was yellow, and I hardly
think there was an organ, in his body
that was not affected.
"I told him I felt sure his sickness
was due to coffee- and after some dis
cussion he decided to give it up.
"It was a struggle, because of the
powerful habit. One day we heard
about Postum and concluded to try
it and then it was easy to leave off
coffee.
"Win fearful headaches grew less
frequent, his complexion began to
clear, "kidneys grew better until at
last he was a new man altogether, as
a result of leaving off coffee and tak
ing up Postum. Then I began" to
drink it too.
"Although I was never as bad off
as my husband, I was always very
nervous and never at any time very
strong, only weighing 95 pounds be
fore I began to use Postum. Now I
weigh UL5 pounds and can do as
much work as anyone my size, I
think.
-"Many do not use Postum because
they have not taken the trouble to
make it right. I have successfully
fooled a great many persons who
have drunk it at my table. They
would remark, 'You must buy a high
grade of coffee.' One young man
who clerked in a grocery store was
very enthusiastic about my 'coffee.
"When I told him what it was, he
said, 'why I've sold Postum for four
years but I had no Idea it was like
this. Think I'll drink Postum here
after.' "
Name given by Postum Co., Battle
Creek, Mich. Itead "Ttie Road to
Wellville,"iri pkgs. 'There's a Rea
son." '- .
glvo a more graceful flguro to stout
women.
Little diamond-shaped corset
shields, lined with washablo rubber
and covered with sultablo wash
fabrics, are attached to the corset
under the arms, for the protection
of the corset from perspiration stains,
and to prevent "friction of the gar
ments. They cost according to ma
terial and elaboration of covering.
"Boston Baked Beans"
Pick over one quart of navy beans
and allow to soak over night In cold
water enough to well cover them.
In tho morning, drain off this water,
cover with fresh water and put over
the fire, bringing slowly to a boll.
Cook until tho skins will .crack open
when a few aro exposed to cold air,
then drain off tho wator and throw
it away. This will Improve U10 flavor
of tho beans, as tho first boil water
has a strong flavor. Wash very clean
tho rind on half a pound of cloar
fat salt pork, cut the rind in gnhon
with a sharp knife, and bury tho
pork in the beans. Mix ono table
spoonful of salt, ono tcaspoonful of
muHtard, two tablcspoonfulH of mo
lasses In a cupful of boiling wator
and pour over tho boans, adding
onough boiling water to cover. Cover
tho vessel and sot in the oven and
bako for six to eight hours, adding
water when neoded. Tho last half
hour tho boans should be uncovered
and allowed to brown. This is an
excellent dish to cook when tho
kitchen range is kept going all day
with moderate boat.
Wool Filling for Comforts
Have the wool well washed and
the trash all picked out of it Pick
all the lumps to pieces, and, If you
can hand-card the wool, 'do so. If
not, pick it loose and fluffy, a little
handful at a time, laying it into a
large, flat pan, evenly, and pat it
down lightly. Fill the pan, then,
turn the "bat" out on a sheet of
newspaper, and repeat, until three or
four pounds (according to the weight
wanted) have been "batted," separat
ing the bats with a sheet of news
paper. Put the lining of tho com
fort in tho frames, stretch smooth,
and lay the wool bats on, as you
would cotton, until tho lining is cov
ered, then put on tho top cover, fas
ten in the frames, and knot with wool
yarn three Inches apart These com
forts are light and warm, and never
mat down like cotton.
A woman who has but a few
clothes, and those of good material,
and who' gives them good care, will
always appear well dressed. Brush
ing, pressing, airing, and putting
away, allowing no spots, stains, mis
sing buttons, hanging hooks, frayed
edges, gaping stitches and tell-tale
rips, add materially to the life of a
garment, as well as to the comfort
of the wearer.
For tho Seamstress
When the basting" threads have
done their duty, carefully pull them
out and wind on a spool; they will
do for another service,
Thread of inferior quality and less
cost is usually finer and softer than
the high-priced kinds, and answers
the purpose of basting as well, if not
better, as tho softer thread leaves
less impression on delicate materials
when pressed.
Women of plump or short figure
should be slow to adopt the draped
skirt, as it cuts their apparent height,
and gives a larger appearance to the
size of the hips. Long, straight lines
Latest Fashions for Readers of
The Commoner
1208
OK
7rfer
2 1 Oil
SJI77
Hint
2208 Boys' Blouse or Shlrt-BIousi
with or without Back Yoke-Facing
and Permanent Turn-Down Collar
TIiIh model 1h adaptable to all shirt
ings. FIvo sizes, 5 to 13 yean.
2194 Misses' Evening Coat, In
Seven-Eighths Length, Without SlooVf
and with Capo and Hood, Any of tin
season's light clotJiB aro used for tli"si'
coatH. Four slzss, 14 to 17 yearn.
2177 Ladles' Shlrt-WalBt. Thin
model 1h very appropriate for any of
tho thln-I'.annolH, or fancy cotton shlrt
IngH. Seven sizes, 32 to 44.
2183 Ladlos' Sowing Apron and Hag
Combined. Made of sheer Persian
lawn, batiste or nainsook this 1h u
charming little outfit. Ono size.
2185 -Ladlos' Tucked Shlrt-Walut
CloHcd at Left-Side of Front. Shadow
plaid Bilk, shading from tan to brown,
has been used for the development of
this charming Bhirt-walst. Eight
sizes, 32 to 40.
220S Ladies' Fifteen-Gored Box
Plaited Skirt. Such a model is appro
priate for light-weight wool goods as
well as any of the thick Winter ma
terials. Six sizes, 22 to 32.
2103 Ladies' Shirred Shirt-Waist,
with Yoke and Three-Quartcr Length
Sleeves. In challis, cashmere or albat
ross this would be a stylish model.
Six sizes, 32 to 42.
2200 Boys' Overcoat. Broadcloth,
mixed tweed, tailor suiting, Btriped
or plain cheviot, and freize cloth are
all suitable materials for the develop
ment of this little overcoat. Five sizes,
3 to 11 years.
gift
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THE COMMONER will supply its readers with perfect fitting, seam
allowing patterns from the latest Paris and New York styles. Ihe de
!tenl are practical and adapted to the home dressmaker. Full dlrcc
S how & cut and how to make the garments with each pattern. The
ri oftoSo patterns 10 cents each, postpagc prepaid. Our large cata
logue containing the illustrations and descriptions of 1,000 seasonable
.ttkfe to?ladlesT misses and children, as well as lessons in home dress
making full of helpful and practical suggestions In the making of your
wardrobe mailed to any address on receipt of 10 cents.
In ordering patterns give us your name, address, pattern number
RDd Address THE COMMONER, Pattern Dept., Lincoln, Neb.
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