Handling of Striped Materials
It seems that everything is woven
In stripes this year, and the frock of
gingham for the half-grown schoolgirl
may show them as well managed as
they are in the visiting gown made for
her mother. The handling of striped
fabrics is not a particularly simple
matter, but when well done the re
sults are something to be proud of.
A good model for a dress of striped
material is shown in the picture. It
is in every way commendable for the
girl of from nine to fourteen years and
merits the attention of those who
must provide clothes that shall be at
tractive for girls of the awkward age.
One of tlxe strongest points in favor of
striped fabrics for children's wear lies
In the fact that they allow simplicity
and variety at the same time. By the
simple expedient of changing the di
rection of the stripes the trimming
is provided of the same material as
the frock.
The model shown is so good that
It should be followed exactly as It is,
by the copyists who use it. The bodice
Is cut with long shoulders and large
arm's-eye, and the simplest of neck
openings. In it the stripes run up
end down and the slight fullness gath
ered in at the waist line gives them
r
the right direction. They slant to
ward the middle of the belt at the
back and front. At each side a band
of the material, having the stripes
running horizontally, makes a neat
decorative feature and adds to the
shapeliness of the waist. In the elbow
length sleeves the stripes run length
wise.
The neck and sleeves are finished
with an embroidered edging in a sim
ple, well-made design. Pearl but
tons, two at each side, and simulated
buttonholes of narrow braid, are ef
fective little touches on the front of
the waist.
The skirt is moderately full with
panel at the front and plaits at the
sides and back. Above the three-inch j
hem a band of the material, with the
stripes running horizontally, gives the
skirt a neat finish and a desirable
flare at the same time.
The belt may be of patent leather or
suede or of some heavy fabric. Alto
gether,'this dress follows many good
points in the inodes of spring for
grownups and at the same time con- 1
trives to be prettily childish and very
practical. It is meant to be developed
in wash fabrics and is easy to launder.
New Combination Garment
A new combination lias appeared
imong undermuslins and has proved
i great success in the spring dis
plays. It has appealed to the senses
of utility, economy and daintiness,
which women exercise when outfitting
themselves with summer underwear.
This garment is called the “envelope
themise" and is engagingly pretty as
well as practical.
To cut the new combination, one has
only to vary the lower part of a
chemise pattern by sloping the side
seams outward to provide for a flare
at the bottom. Also the back breadth
is cut longer than the front breadth
and with a tab at the center of the
lower edge. This tab is more or less
narrow and is provided with button
holes which fasten over small, flat
pearl buttons sewed to the bottom
edge of the front breadth.
This arrangement divides the skirt
of the chemise, making it as easy to
walk in as muslin or silk pants and
giving the appearance of a short un
der petticoat.
The envelope chemise is developed
in nainsook or other thin cotton fab
rics and in wash silk or crepe de chine.
It is trimmed with the usual lingerie
laces. The cc’-sat cover, pants and
short skirt may be dispensed with
when this chemise is adopted, since it
takes the place of each of tj)em.
Id the picture two developments of
this new garment are shown, one with ;
lace sleeves and lace trimmings and
the other made with small hand-run
tucks at the front, a narrow handmade
edging about the bottom and top and
finishing the arm’s-eye. Any needle
woman can make this chemise and it
is a very simple matter to launder it. !
It is cool for summer wear, for it dis- i
penses with at least one pioce of un
derwear.
JULIA BOTTOMLEY.
Smart Outing Costumes.
For smart country club costumes
in norfolk style there is a new silk
material called khaki-kool. which
com6s in various crisp weaves re
sembling shantung and rajah pongees
and in smart shades of sand, putty,
dreadnaught gray and in pearl and
oyster white. These costumes are
very simple and very smartly tailored
with belted coats above wide circular
skirts. The natural shade of the
khaki-kool is sometimes matched by
natural silk stockings: stockings to
match the dark and light gray shades
are also carefully selected for weat
with black pumps or boots. This
khaki-kool has a virtue of springing
up, however it is crushed, and will
without doubt, be fancied also for
summer motor coats.
Colored Blouses.
Colored handkerchief linen blouses
are shown again this year. You re
member last year they were intro
duced for country wear. They, are
still on tailored linens, frequently
with pockets. They have long sleeves
and sometimes the fronts are scal
loped.
Red Hair and Light Eyebrows.
A word of warning to the red-haired
woman with light brows and lashes.
Don’t make them black; the effect
you achieve by so doing will be weird
m the extreme, artiflcialness being
its predominant note.
In such a case light brown water
cosmetique, well diluted and care
fully applied, gives' the very best re
sults, for it imparts to the brows and
lashes a ruddy brown tint which has
at least the appearance of being nat
ural, which coal-black brows with red
hair are decidedly not.
If resolutions could not be broken
few would be made
PORTABLE SWINE HOUSES ARE ECONOMICAL
farmers Type of Sunlight Hog House.
(By J. G. FULLER.)
The proper housing of swine is best
accomplished by using a central hog
house with a number of colony pens.
The large central house is well suited
for winter shelter and spring farrow
ing. The portable houses are espe
cially useful for housing different
classes and sizes of hogs in separate
fields, particularly during summer or
after farrowing.
Portable hog houses have been used
satisfactorily for a good many years.
They are quite generally in use by
breeders of pure-bred swine where
they often And it more satisfactory to
quarter but a few animals together.
The farmer who produces swine for
the market and depends on a large
central hog house w;ll also find a few
portable pens very useful in separ
ately housing odd lots of swine.
Some farmers prefer a shed roof
hog house to the A-shaped cot. Six
feet four inches wide and eight feet
long makes a good size house. In th«
rear it is provided with a door two j
feet wide and two and one-half feet j
long, the same size as a lower front
door which is placed diagonally oppo
site so that by opening all the doors it !
makes a cool house in summer. On ;
the other hand, by closing both lower |
doors and opening an upper door :
which is put in above the lower door !
in front, so that ample ventilation is !
provided, it makes a warm house for j
cold winter weather. It is very im- !
portant to have a door at the top in
front for it is a serious mistake to i
build these houses with but one open- j
ing, as is sometimes done. There is ]
no ventilation whatever, and in warm j
weather the house becomes suffocat-!
ing. The upper front door is ar
ranged with a wooden ratchet on the
back side, by means of which it may
be held in any desired position. By
having hinges on the top, the storms
and hot sun cannot enter, ana yet air
can circulate freely without causing
a draft on the animals.
To build the shed roof house, con- J
struct the frame eight feet long by j
One piece 1 in. by 12 in. by 16 Tv
for sides and ends.
One piece 1 in by C in. by 12 ft
for braces and cross pieces for doors
Thirty-six pieces O. G. battens 10 ft
long for side/;.
Thirteen pieces 1 in. by 12 in. by
10 ft. for roo’.
For a shingled roof it will require
130 feet of rcugh lumber 14 feet long
and six bupches of shingles laid
four and one-half inches to the
weather. A shingle roo* is preferable
A practical farmer's sunlight hog
house may be constructed 24 feet by
50 feet with a four-foot alley. The
building should face the south. A
most substantial building may be built
with ends and sides, six feet in height,
of solid concrete, eight to twelve
inches thick. Nine windows are
placed in the first elevation, four of
which are continued tt> the floor to
form door openings. The top of the
low root is eipht feel and the top of
the high roof 11 feet iVom the ground.
Movable partitions ora provided and
stored above *o give separate pens
for 20 sows at farrowing time. The
flood is of solid concrete, and con
crete feeding floors ftre laid outside
on both sides of the building. The
dimensions an# height of this build
ing are arranged to secure the maxi
mum amount of sit; light, for early
spring farrowing.
AVOID EGG SATING
BY PROPER FEEDING
Hens Seldom Indulge in Habit
While on Free Range—Grit
Is Quite Essential.
Wrong feeding is the commonest
cause of hens eating ?heir eggs. They
seldom do it in the s .-ramer when they
are on free range. Then, the fowls
get everything that their system
craves. It is the -reiving for some
Large Portable Hog House With Temporary Shade Roof attached—A Moot
Excellent Arrangement for Summer.
six feet four inches wide on seven
two-inch by four-inch joists six feet
long, and two pieces of two-inch by
four-inch nailed across the ends of
the joists. This will make the foun
dation for the floor six feet four inches
wMde and eight feet long. Beneath
the frame are nailed three two-inch
by four-inch pieces which serve as
runners for moving the building. The
house is built six feet two inches high
in front and three feet high in the
rear. Seven 12-foot boards cut in
two can be used for boarding the
front of the house. The small space
left at the top may be closed by a
batten or frieze board. Two eye
bolts should be securely inserted in
one end of the joist, for attachment
when the, house is to be moved. A
shingled roof is necessary to insure
the best results, and that, of course,
is what should be desired.
A large portable hog house eight by
twelve feet ma. be constructed on the
same plan as the small shed roof
house just described. It will accom
modate from eight to ten mature hogs
or twenty or more growing pigs. By
constructing a partition in the middle
the house can be used for two differ
ent lots of pigs or for two sows at
farrowing time. Being provided with
four doors in front and one in the
rear, it is well ventilated and may be
adjusted to suit many conditions. A
shade may be attached to the house
during the summer.
This house has proved very satis
factory where it has been found de
sirable to keep more animals in a lot
than can be accommodated by the
smaller houses. However, it is mdre
difficult to move and does not differ
greatly from a small stationary house
in that respect. The bill of lumber
for this house is as follows:
Eight pieces 2 in. by 4 in. by 12 ft.
Three pieces 2 in. by 6 in. by 12 ft.
Two pieces 2 in. by 4 in. by 18 ft.
Six pieces 2 in. by 4 in. by 16 ft.
Three pieces 2 in. by 4 in. by 14 ft.
Eight pieces 1 in. by 12 in. by 12 ft.
(rough for floor).
Eight pieces 1 in. by 12 in. by 14 ft.
Six pieces 1 in. by 12 in. by 12 ft.
thing that is lack tig in the wintet
ration that causes *gg eating.
Usually the thin? that is lacking is
some form of aniir'tl food to take the
rlace of the bugs d worms the fowls
pick up in the sun mer. Meat scraps
i green cut bone or : iim milk should be
fed. Hens won't lay well, anyhow, un
less some one of t' ese enters into the
rations.
Soft shelled eggs which are easily
i broken in the nest are a constant
I Temptation to the hens. The cause of
soft shelled eggs i3 either not enough
i lime from which the hens can make
shells or the hens being too fat.
Ground oyster t hells kept where the
hens can help themselves is about the
i cheapest way of supplying lime. To
j prevent the hens Vom getting too fat,
see that they take a proper amount of
exercise. Feed the grain in litter so
the fowls mus t scratch for it. It is
probable that fgg eating may be
caused from the hens not having
enough grit. Crt is the hen’s teeth.
They can’t dig 011 their food without
it. So, if grit i - racking, much of what
they eat passes through them undi
gested. The fowls will feel hungry
though ge ting plenty to eat. Then
they are apt to eat eggs—but not to
lay very many or look very thrifty.
Small pebbles, broken crockery or
stones will do for grit.
Have the nests rather low. A hen
must stand up in the nest to eat eggs.
If the nest is too lowr to allow her to
stand up she can’t eat the eggs.
Gather the eggs two or three times a
day and don’t have too many nests.
Nests which the hens are not using
with eggs laying in them are a tempta
tion to the hens.
Value of Chief Crops in 1914.
The value of the principal farm
crops was:
Corn, $1,702,599,000; wheat, $779,
069,000; cotton, $519,616,000; oats,
$499,431,000: potatoes, $198,609,000;
barley, $105,903,000; sweet potatoes,
$41,294,000; tobacco, $101,411,000;
rye. $37,018,000; sugar beets, $27,050,
000; rice, $21,849,000: flaxseed, $10,
540,000; buckwheat, $12,892,000.
Charcoal for the Chickens.
Charcoal iB a health promoter for
the fowls. If you will put some ears
of corn In a hot oven and let them
bum quite black and feed when the
grain gets cold enough you will per
haps be astonished to see how greedily
the poultry will partake of the charred
com. Give such a feed every two
weeks. We do not mean that the
fowls should have to depend on the
charred grain for the meal, but an
opportunity to eat what they wish
from the cob.
Study Climatic Condition*.
One of the commonest mistakes
which orchardists make is to try to
follow the same system of pruning in
all parts of the country. Climatic and.
other conditions make a big difference
in the growing and bearing habits o'*
trees, and in order to secure the bes-:
results it is necessary to adapt prun<
ing methods to suit local conditions.
^Ifalfa Paya.
Alfalfa fills the haymow and payi
for the privilege.
RUSSIAN ARTILLERY GOING INTO ACTION
UNDEKWOOD
UNDERWOOD
3
The Russian artillery has won fame for Us efficiency and mobility. A battery of the Black sea division
here shown wading through a stream on the way to the front.
ITALIAN OFFICERS AT MOBILIZATION CAMP
Should Italy enter the war these Italian officers, who are shown at one of Italy's mobilization camps, will
lead their men against the Austrians now concentrating in the Trentino.
SUPREME COURT OF BUSINESS IN SESSION
»
Left to right in the reproduced photograph are: George Ruble* of New Hampshire, William J. Harris of
Georgia, Joseph E. Davies of Wisconsin, Edward N. Hurley of Illinois, and William H. Parry of Seattle. Wash.
These men are the members of the new federal interstate trade commission, the “supreme court of business.'*
j which has just been organized. The picture shows the commision holding its first meeting in the department of
commerce at Washington. Mr. Davies was made chairman at this meeting.
FLOWER NAMED FOR MRS. WILSON
^UNDplWOOD
o
UNDE.Fe.WOOD
lit
sits
Anions me rare and beautiful flowers exhibited at the third anuuai inter
national flower show in New York was this ever-blooming Nymphaea. which
is named in honor of the late Mrs. Woodrow Wilson.
A Brief Spender.
-Maude Fulton, the clever actress,
has a fund of anecdotes, and here's one
of the best of them:
"She had stopped, panting, by the
road to rest. It was the shell road in
Pass Christian, and she was black. Re
side her was a heavy market basket
filled to overflowing. A passer-by i
smiled and she responded with a full
and free confidence: 'Yas'n, 1 is
some tiahed. An' lame. All painful
wid miseries. Yass’m I coulda done
sen' someone else to mahket fo me.
Mah grandson he coulda gone. But I
dasn’t trus' him. He spends mah
money too briefly.' ”—Young’s Maga
zine.
TASTING SOLDIERS’ FOOD
A colonel of the Russian medical
corps tasting the food prepared for
the soldiers fighting in Galicia.
“Ghost" Easily Laid.
A colored man stood shivering with
fright because of a “ghost” which he
saw and which he had "seed ev’ry
night foh a week” in a cemetery at
Pottstown. Pa., when a white man
came along. The white man ridiculed
the idea of a ghost and persuaded the
colored man to accompany him into
the graveyard. When they reached the
“ghost" they found it to be a highly
polished granite monument which ap
peared white because of the reflection
of a nearby arc light
WAR AND FUTURE STATURE
No Doubt That the Next Generation
of Europe Will Be Smaller
Than Present One.
War ■will make the next generation
of Europeans smaller than the present
one. Men and women will be of
shorter stature by from half an inch to
an Inch, and they will weigh perhaps
four or five pounds less.
Apparently much more trifling
things than sending 12,000,000 of the
strongest and most vigorous young
men to war to kill each other affeo»
the size of a human being. Dr. W. C
i Hollopeter has made an extended
: study of the effects of food.
“Ten years of an excessive starch
diet,” he tells us. "took half an inch
off the English race and two pounds
off their weight."
The doctor spent a great deal of
time in London looking into this ques
tion of human diet, and that is one of
the things he discovered.
Measurements made at Smith col
'ege show that the girls are larger
‘han their mothers. The parents were
of the Civil war generation, and who
knows the effect produced upon the
size of people during the 30 years fol
lowing Appomattox?
An Oversight.
“I m surprised at Mrs. Newcomer's
actions." said the editor's wife "She
hasn’t returned my call yet.”
"Perhaps." rejoined the weary blue
pencil manipulator, "you neglected to
inclose a stamp.”