The Loup City northwestern. (Loup City, Neb.) 189?-1917, September 22, 1904, Image 6

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    There are cheap net laces, which
make up beautifully, and there come
imitation Irish crochet laces in dull
black that look precisely like the real.
A net gown is not difficult to make
by hand and the lace is easily ap
plied. And afterward one has only
to add the touch of blue and the gown
is complete. For a sash one can pur
chase the inexpensive and glossy blue
Liberty, which ties without wrink:
ling.
Taffeta and Point D'Esprlt.
Little jackets of all sorts are great
ly in vogue and make ideal summer
wraps. This one is worn over a waist
of point d'osprit and is of antique
green taffeta matching the skirt, the
trimming being folds of velvet. The
waist is simply full with wide sleeves
that are finishel with graceful frills
of lace but is eminently becoming and
suits lace, net and an thin materials
to a nicety. The bolero is cut with
fronts, backs asnd wide sleeves and is
laid in plaits over the shoulders that
give the drooping effect. The quan
tity of material required for the me
dium size is for waist 4% yards 21,
4 yards 27 or 2% yards 44 Inches
wide; for bolero 2% yards 21, 2 yards
27 or 1% yards 44 inches wide.
Currant Jelly.
To make currant jelly that will Reel
almost any length of time: Weigh
one pound of sugar to each pound oi
fruit; after weighing, put the currant*
in a patent wine press or in a fln«
sieve that the seeds will not gt
through; it is not necessary to strif
the currants from the stems; pres! :
the juice all out; then strain i* i
through a very fine sieve or through i
a cheese &oth; pour the juice aftei j
straining into a preserving kettle, anc
stand it over a slow fire. When the
juice is quite hot. stir in the sugar, j
and keep stirring until it is dissolved
I^et the whole simmer gently till it
drops as thick as jelly from the
spoon; then pour the jelly into glasses
and stand it in the sun until it is
quite stiffened; then paste paper over
the tops of the glasses.
Care of the Hair.
Eau de quinine has no effect upon
the color of the hair and is excellent
to make It grow. Sprinkle It on the
scalp three times a week before re
tiring and massage it in with the ti;e
of the ten fingers, then divide the hair
into small proportions and brush well.
Whenever possible, let the hair fall
loose. This will add to its growth
Pure vaseline also massaged into the
scalp once a week is very good
Never touch the hair with a curling
iron, but if it needs flufflness, rough ii
underneath with the comb as the hair
dressers do. This should be carefully
brushed at night.
Asbestos Table Coverings.
A new covering for dining tables 1e
made from asbestos, especially pre
pared, covered with double-faced can
ton flannel. It is so soft and flexible
that it can be folded into any desired
size without being clumsy. The samd
material can be had in doylies and
mats to put under plates, chafing
dishes and platters, when no dining
cloth is used. The covers of linen are
then laid over them, and one is spared
the vexation of finding a handsome
table covered with the spots and rings
left by hot dishes.
Latest Neck Trimming.
The latest neck trimmings are dou
ble ruchlngs, formed by combining two
widths of the goods, or two kinds ol
material, in different widths. The
wider portion is folded down, giving
the effects of a turnover collar, while
the narrower portion remains upright
in the form of a ruch. This turnovei
frill is usually three times as wide as
the other. It is of sheer goods, such
as fine batiste, and is knife-plaited.
Leather as Trimming.
Leather is making its appearand
again as a trimming and is employed
not only on raincoats hut on cloth
blouses for rough wear. It is not like*
ly to be much used, although on eer
tain materials for hard usage it is ap>
propriate.
^tcbin
In using guMjlJne, what is left may
be again utilized. In a few days it
will have settled and the clear part
may be poured off Into other bottles.
Potato peelings, if dried in the oven,
are said to be very useful for fire
kindling. If sufficiently abundant they
naay be used instead of wood, but, in
any case, they will economize it.
Gallon bottles are best for gasoline
and the careful woman will not bring
them Into the house at alL Unless
one has a back yard or a porch clean
ing with these dangerous agents is
best not undertaken at all.
Lamb stew is very much Improved
by the addition of curry powder, espe
cially if it is a rechanffee or “left
over.** Made of cold roast meat, with
fresh raw potatoes and the curry, it
becomes a delicious entree, deserving
of a more euphonious name than
“stew."
Hate for Small Girls.
Children’s pique hats are cow mads
with high poke crowns. Both crown
and brim are of the piqne. and firom
the latter depend full lingerie ruf
fles.
I
THE BEAUTIES OF NATURE.
Young Woman Decidedly- Handicapped
in Their Observance.
The young man who aspires to the
intense was walking with the young
woman who doesn't quite understand
all he says, but nevertheless thinks
it simply grand. •
“Look on the glories of the western
sky!” he exclaimed.
She seemed puzzled for a minute
and said:
“Let me see, you face to the north
—that's the way our house fronts—
and then on your right hand is east
and on your left is west. Why, it’s
the direction we’re walking in. Isn’t
it?”
He looked a trifle gloomy, but re
sumed:
“How the great masses of color are
piled one upon another in nature’s
lavish and transcendent art!”
“Yes," she sighed. “It makes me
think of Neapolitan ice cream.”
“And there, close and closer to the
horizon, sinks a great crimson ball,
the setting sun.”
“Right over there?”
“Yes.”
“Straight ahead of us?”
“To be sure.”
“Well, I’ve been wondering about
that for the last five minutes. You
know my little brother is so mischiev
ous. He broke my glasses this after
noon, and I am so near-sighted that
I couldn’t be sure whether that was
the crimson setting sun or somebody
playing golf.”
SATAN AS A LANDLORD.
Spot of Earth Owned by Monarch of
the Underworld.
There is only one spot on the
earth’s surface that has actually been
willed, deeded and bequeathed to his
Satanic Majesty, This spot lies four
miles and a half south of Helsingfors,
Finland. A few years ago Lara Hui
laricne died in the little town of Pie
lisjarvi, in the above named country,
leaving considerable property in the
shape of landed estate. How he had
come into possession of so much land
no one seemed to know, but as he was
a very bad citizen it was generally ad
i mitted that he was in league with
Wintahausu (Satan), and that they
had many business deals with each
other. This somewhat startling opin
ion was verified when among old Hui
lariene’s papers a certified warranty
deed was found which deeded to Satan
all his earthly possessions. The win
was to the same effect. The family
have repeatedly tried to break the
will, but so far have been unsuccess
ful; thus the records plainly show that
his Sulphuric Majesty has a legal
' right to some excellent ground in the ]
near vicinity of Helsingfors. The sim- I
pie people of the neighborhood have
changed the course of the road which :
formerly skirted the Huilariene home
stead, and declare that they would not )
enter the possessions of Satan and Co.
for all the money that the three es
tates would bring.
Vale.
I am not fair.
But you have thought me so,
And with a crown I go
More rich than beauty’s wear.
I am not brave.
But fear has made me so
And dread lest I forego
The honor that you gave.
•
I am not wise.
But you loved wisdom so
That what I did not know
I learnt it in your eyes.
I am not true.
But you have trusted so
That I faithfully go
Lest I be false to you.
If heaven I win.
I can no virtue show
But that you loved me so.
Will they let me in?
—Ethel Clifford, "Songs of ©reams."
Only One Black Hawk Pensioner.
William H. Lee of Shobonier, 111., is
the sole pensioner of the Black Hawk
war, and so far as known the only
survivor of that Struggle between
white settlers and the Sac and Fox
Indians. He was born eighty-nine
years ago in Cayuga county, New
York, but wras brought west by his
parents three years later. He was
only 16 when the Black Hawk trouble
broke out in 1832, but he w'ent to tne
front and fought wrell. He went over
land to California during the gold
excitement of 1850. Later he made
two more trips to the Pacific coast.
—
The Sleeping-Car Pillow.
A Cincinnati man recently returning
from the East was about to get into
his berth on a sleeping car, when he
heard the voice of a huge Kentuckian,
who was holding up a pillow between
his thumb and finger while he roared
out to the porter:
“I say, you boy, come back and take
this away!”
‘‘Wha’ for, sah?”
"Because I’m afraid the derned
thing will get into my ear!”
None other, however, was to be had,
so, placing his head on the feather or
two inserted in the tick, he was soon
asleep.
So He Did.
Judge Parker is said to tell as a
favorite story the tale of a young
man in Savannah named Du Bose,
who invited his sweetheart to take a
buggy ride with him. The young wo
man had a very fetching lisp. When
they reached a rather lonesome bit
of road the young man announced:
“This is where you have to pay toll.
The toll is either a kiss or a squeeze."
"Oh, Mr. Du Both!” exclaimed his
companion.
New York Capital Punishment.
During a celebrated murder trial in
New York city two Irishmen were
among the many interested specta
tors.
’Sure the evidendte will convict the
prisoner,” remarked one.
"Not only convict him, but will hang
him,” returned the other.
"Man alive! They don’t hang mur
derers in New York!”
"Well, what do they do with them."
"Kill them with elocution.”
Writer’s Real Name.
The real name of Joseph Conrad, a
well-known writer of sea stories, is
Korzenlowskl. He is a Pole.
Fastest Time on Bicycle.
The fastest that has been done on
a bicycle is the record of 66 feet a
second.
v
1
A Trick in Seed Selling.
The Grain Dealers’ National Associ
ation, recently in session in Milwau
kee, passed the following resolutions:
Whereas, Seed houses do a large
business in the sale of seed grains,
and thereby may materially affect the
general business of the crops of grain
thus produced, either for better or
worse; and,
Whereas, It is known that seed
thus sold by seed houses does not al
ways possess the merit of type and
breeding sufficient to meet the expec
tations of the purchaser, and in fact
often does not tend to raise the
standard of the general crops pro
duced. For example it has been too
common a practice for seedsmen to
purchase ordinary corn from farmers'
cribs and sell the same under special
brands when in fact it possessed no
special merit whatever, with respect
to type and breeding, and the same is
true in regard to other grains; there
fore.
Resolved, That the Grain Dealers’
National Association, now in conven
tion assembled In Milwaukee this 23d
day of June, 1004, does hereby urgent
ly request all firms engaged In the
selling of seed grain to adopt a line
of business policy that will result in
giving more attention to the questions
3f type and breeding and adaptability
and thereby assist in improving the
Quality and yield of grains; also.
Resolved, That the secretary be In
structed to send a copy of this reso
lution to all the principal firms en
gaged in the business of selling seed
grains In the grain producing states,
and also to all the leading agricul
tural pape.-s In the country.
• • •
The practice against which the res
olution is directed is one that has
long been condemned by conscientious
dealers. It not only injures the farm
ers, but injures the firms that are try
ing to do an honest business. It is
gratifying to see a great association
take the stand that this one has taken.
The agitation is 6ure to bear fruit.—
Farmers’ Review.
Com In British India.
The cultivation of Indian corn, or
maize, has within the past century
become a factor of great importance
in the rural economy of British India.
The Indian Agriculturist (Calcutta)
of June 1, 1904, says: “This grain, if
we consider the whole of India col
lectively, is now of equal economic
importance with wheat In the hilly
tracts of the country especially, and
among the bulk of the aboriginal
tribes, it is chiefly depended upon as
a means of subsistence. Yet the bot
1 anist, Roxburgh, writing about a hun
dred years ago, described it as 'culti
vated in various parts of India in gar
i dens, and only as a delicacy, but not
anywhere on the continent of India,
as far as I can learn, as an extensive
j crop.’ Its use in upper India may have
j been more general at that time than
; this writer was aware, for its most
; common vernacular name, makkai,
derived from Mecca, is supposed to as
sociate Its introduction with the Mo
gul dynasty. But there is no name
for maize in Sanskrit, and the grain
, has no recognized place In the re
j ligious or social ceremonies of the
Hindus. Few of those who cultivate
<t now have any idea that it is an
innovation, and the fact that its local
name is often that of some much older
crop encourages the pioua belief
It has been the staple food of the
district for untold generations."
Loss In Over-Ripe Wheat
In 1879, Dr. R. C. Kedzie, In an ex
haustive study of the ripening of
wheat, pointed out that there was a
slight loss In weight between com
plete ripeness and the stage generally
designated as dead ripe. Subsequent
experiment at this college and else
where have given like results. There
is not only a loss by shelling .when
the grain becomes over-ripe, but a
given number of well dried kernels,
or the product of a given area, kept
in the ordinary manner, will weigh
less if taken from an over ripe flt-ld
than if taken from a field cut at t ie
proper time. Moreover, the amoi it
and quality of the flour produced tr:d
the germinating vigor of the gr^.n
Itself are less if the wheat Is allowed
to become over-ripe than if cut at an
early period. These facts are now
well recognized by farmers, and ordi
nary practice is regulated by this
knowledge. The loss in shelling is un
doubtedly the most Important one. and
fortunately it can be controlled In a
large measure by a proper selection of
varieties combined with harvesting
at the proper season.^-Michigan Sta
tion.
On the Range*.
Reports from the ranges indicate
a largei supply of cattle and very good
agricultural conditions. The rains
have been copious during a large part
of this grazing season and conse
quently the production of grass on the
plains has been good. The lack of
drinking facilities has not been felt
on the plains this year as in some
former years; for the reason that
many of the springs have been kept
supplied by the rains. This has made
a condition that is favorable for graz
ing. The only drawback is that last
winter was unusually severe on range
stock and they came into spring in
poor condition, thus necessitating a
longer feeding period in summer for
their preparation for market The
abundance of good grass encourages
the rangers to believe that the cattle
will put on weight rapidly from now
on.
Lice are great destroyers of young
turkeys. It is difficult to find them
on the turkeys, but this la no reason
why the owner should not take pre
cautions against them. A good greas
ing will do as a protection.
Those who have watched the live
stock interests of the country know
that they are advancing slowly a lit
tle each year. It is, however, pos
sible to make a more marked ad
vance.
As Milk Grows Old.
In an experiment on the relation of
temperature to the keeping property
of milk, at the Connecticut Storrs
station, the bacteria in milk multi
plied fivefold in twenty-four hours
when the temperature was 50 degrees
F., and 750 fold in the same time
when the temperature was 70 degrees.
Milk kept at 95 curdled in eighteen
hours, at 70 in forty-eight hours, and
at 50 in 148 hours. So far as the keep
ing property of milk is concerned, low
temperature is considered of more
importance than cleanliness.
In milk kept at 95 the species de
veloping most rapidly is the undesir
able one known as Bacillus lactis aero
genes.
At a temperature of 70 this species
develops relatively less rapidly in the
majority of oases than Bacillus lactis
acldi, which latter is very desirable
in both cream and cheese ripening.
The bacteria in milk kept at 50 in
crease slowly, and later consist of
very few lactic organisms, but of mis
cellaneous types, including many
forms that render the milk unwhole
some.
These bacteria continue to grow
slowly day after day, but the milk
keeps sweet because the lactic organ
isms do not develop abundantly.
Such milk in the course of time
becomes far more unwholesome than
sour milk, since it is filled with organ
isms that tend to produce putrefac
tion.
Although the temperature of 50 de
grees Is to be emphatically recom
mended to the dairyman for the pur
pose of keeping his milk sweet and in
proper condition for market, he must
especially be on his guard against the
feeling that milk which is several
days old is proper for market, even
though it Is still sweet and has cot
curdled.
Quite the reverse is the case. Old
milk is never wholesome, even though
it has been kept at a temperature of
50 degrees and still remains sweet and
uacurdled.
This very considerably modifies
some of our previous ideas concerning
milk, for it has been generally be
lieved that, so long as the milk re
mains sweet, it is in good condition
for use. Quite the contrary in this
case, if it has been kept at a tempera
ture of 50 degrees or in this vicinity.
It is not unlikely that it is this
fact that leads to some of the cases of
ice cream poisoning so common in
summer.
The cream is kept at a low tempera
ture for several days until a consid
erable quantity has accumulated or a
demand has come for ice cream, and,
when made into ice cream, it is filled
with bacteria in great numbers and
of a suspicious character.—Prof. H. W.
Cotin.
Russian and Siberian Butter.
Grass is the great foundation of
dairying, and it will be a long time
before dairying will flourish in lands
where grass does not grow spontane
ously. The great plains of Russia,
with her sparse inhabitants in some
portions of the empire, furnish just
the condition on which a great dairy
industry may be* built up. In the
colder parts of the temperate aone
sod forms naturally. The frost strikes
deep each winter and prepares the soil
for the passage of the tender root
hairs and makes unnecessary the
work of the plow, so far as grass is
concerned. In these little inhabited
regions more grass grows than men
can gather. But the dairy cow can
gather it and change it into butter
that brings from 16 cents to 20 cents
a pound even in that land of low
prices. Coupled with this is the use
of the milk for bacon making, which
Is an industry sure to follow closely
on the heels of the dairy cow.
Dairy schools are springing up in
Russia. If there is any one thing
that will stimulate the production of
good butter and other dairy products
it is the dairy school. Judging from
experiences in other parts of the
world we may expect the graduates
of the schools to go out into the num
erous creameries that are being estab
lished in all parts of Russia and Si
beria. How much the dairy industry
there is to be set back by the present
war it is hard to say, but it is believed
that the chock to its development will
be only temporary. The great objec
tion urged against Siberian and Rus
sian butter is that the larger part of
it is poor in quality. The students of
the dairy schools will cure this to a
very large degree, especially that part
of it that goes to foreign lands.
When Salt Appears In Butter.
Ia the summer time it is quite com
■ moo to see butter with salt standing
on it Agricultural papers frequently
receive letters asking why the salt
comes out on the butter. The explana
tion Is simple and the butter can be
easily kept In a normal condition. The
salt comes out of the butter simply
because the butter is kept in a dry
atmosphere. This causes the mois
ture In the butter to moYe toward
the surface of the butter and evapor
ate into the air. As It was salt water
in the butter it Is salt water when it
gets to the surface of the butter.
But in evaporating It cannot take the
salt with it, but has to leave it. At
first the amount of salt deposited is
so small that the residue of salt is
not noticed. Later, however, the ac
cumulations become so large that they
are apparent to the eye. If the but
ter were weighed before the evapora
tion and afterward It would be found
that the loss of weight had been con
siderable. Keeping the butter In a
moist place will prevent the accumu
lation of salt If the place where the
butter is stored is opened several
times a day it will be advisable to
keep a crock of water in it that the
evaporation may regulate Itself. But
where butter Is stored In a cool place
that is not often opened there will be
little trouble from this cause. The
lower the temperature the less the
evaporation. Places where the tem
perature is high and ventilation good
dry out the butter quickly and leave It
covered with salt
Yarding Fowls.
A good deal of experimenting will
have to be done before the question of
yarding fowls is settled. With the
small flock on the farm the problem
Is not a large one, but with the large
flock the problems increase both it*
size and number. If a man have sev
eral hundred hens shall he let them
all have the run of the farm; shall
he confine them in one yard; or la
several? The man with a good many
fowls will hardly care to let them
have the run of the farm. With a
small flock it is different; and he will
need to keep them confined only while
the plants are getting a start in the
spring. After the garden has got to
growing well the birds may be turned
in with no possibility of harm except
to lettuce and to tomatoes when they
begin to get ripe. As to other vegeta
bles the birds will only prove a help
by picking ofT the bugs. Also ia the
fall of the year when the grain has
been harvested the birds will do the
farmer much good in his grain fields
by picking up the seeds that have
dropped from the heads in time ef har
vesting. Incidental arrangements and
circumstances also affect the problem.
A lady told the writer that she had 2O0t
Brown Leghorn hens. She said her
husband was a thresher and much
grain was hauled to his farm and
threshed there. This gave a consid
erable amount of lost grain which
supported her 200 fowls with little
other feed. This was a happy arrange
ment that seldom exists.
All things being equal, it will be
better to keep large flocks yarded
most of the time. If there are more
than one flock they may be turned cut
after the grain harvest, one flock one
day and another another. But it is
far easier to keep the flocks shut up
and establish a regular system of
yarding and feeding them. In this
country of cheap land there seems lit
tle reason In depriving fowls of room.
The more room the less the required
height of the fence. Yards on farms
should be large enough so that they
can be divided into two or three
parts. Green 6tuff, like rape and oats
may be sown in one part, and after it
has obtained a good growth the fowls
may be turned in and another part of
the yard seeded. It is not possible to
grow any crop while the fowls are
in the yard as they will feed off the
developing crop to the roots.
If a man have heavy fowls the
fences need be not more than three
feet high. The birds will not gen
erally try to fly over. This does not
include the Plymouth Rocks, which
are both quite heavy and good flyers.
We have found that with a good-sized
yard a four-foot wire fence will stop
even the Leghorns if there is no board
at the top of the fence. They will
not make the attempt to fly over un
less they can have a board to light
[ on. On the other hand, In cramped
quarters we have seen Leghorns be
come very expert In gettiag over a
wire fence even without a top board.
It is a mistake to suppose that
fowls having the run of the farm lay
more than birds yarded. Carefully
conducted experiments have failed to
show any advantage of this kind,
popular impressions to the contrary
notwithstanding. The man that yards
his fowls must simply supply them
with the green and animal food they
would get on their foraging expedi
tions.
The Narragansett Turkey.
The Narragansetts are next in size
to the Bronze. The ground color of
their plumage is black, each feather
ending with a band of steel gray
edged with black. This gives a gray
ish color to the surface plumage.
Narrasransett Turkey (Male).
They are beautiful In form and feather
and breed true to shape and color.
The female is lighter in her markings
than the male. The weight of the
males runs from 20 to 30 pounds and
of the females 12 to 18 pounds.
Habit and Hens.
Anyone that has had the feeding of
fowls for a number of years will no
tice what creatures of habit they are.
They become used to one kind of feed
and want to stick to that feed, in pref
erence to other feeds of the same gen
eral character. That is If the chicks
are fed oats they will always prefer
oats to other grain, and the same is
true if they are brought up on corn.
This does not hold good in the case
of meat or green food being offered
after they have been on a single graiD
diet for months. Their feeling of a
lack in this respect overcomes theii
inclination to stick to one thing. This
can be illustrated by keeping chicks
for a mimber of weeks after they are
born on some particular ration like
cracked corn. They will then takt
that in preference to other things ol
the same general nature. The writes
has had Illustration of this again and
again. Thus Borne men have declared
that hens will not eat oats. The
writer has always fed oats in large
quantities to his fowls from the time
they were old enough to eat grain
He once kept his fowls from oats fo»
a few days, giving them corn instead.
Then he took the corn away and gave
the fowls a mixed ration of corned
oats. The birds made a lunge for the
oats, pushing the corn aside with theii
bills and picking only the oats till
they were satisfied.
ggSu**?
rSwMHL©
BMEPfe- ^
Negligee With Round Yoke.
Tasteful negligees are among the de
sirable things of life of which no
woman ever yet had too many. This
one is graceful, becoming and simple,
withal, and can be made from a va
riety of materials. The round yoke
extended well over the shoulders,
gives the broad line of fashion and
the pointed sleeves take the long Hues
and folds that always are desirable.
The model is made of white batiste,
**ith the yoke of all-over Valenciennes
lace banded with narrow folds of the
material and the sleeves edged with
lace insertion, but the design will be
found admirable for soft silks and
wool fabrics as well as for washable
ones.
The negligee is made with full fronts
and barfs, that are joined to the yoke,
and wide, full sleeves. As illustrated
It is closed by means of ties of rib
bon but buttons and buttonholes can
be substituted if preferred.
The quantity of material required
for the medium size is 4% yards 27
Inches wide, 3% yards 32 inches wide
or 2^5 yards 44 inches wide, with Vz
yard of all-over and 2l£ yards of In
sertion to make as illustrated.
Showing the Coming Mode.
One new gown in advance of the
season deserves mention, since it rep
resents the coming mode in dress
toilets. Intended for a blonde young
woman, it is of the loveliest shade of
rose pink, silk of a weave closely re
sembling Louisiene. The skirt is danc
ing length and is made on a founda
tion of white taffeta. The ruffles,
which are deep, are shirred on in
fancy design, making scallops and
small rosette effects. There are two
pt these ruffles, which run into a
Itraight panel in front. The bodice
has a yoke of cream, snowdrop-pattern
lace and a deep fall of the same over
the shirred front of the bust and over
the shoulders; the sleeves are elbow
In length and consist of an upper
sleeve in three deep scallops of silk,
ahirred on the edges and bordered
with lace, under which is a full puffed
pleeve of rose pink chiffon with a lace
fall. The high girdle is of silk and
lace with jet nailheads set in the cen
ter of each of the six small rosettes
which form the front as well as the
back decoration. About the bottom of
the short bodice is a deep flounce of
lace, which falls over the hips and
forms a ruffle. The stock and the front
of the yoke show a narrow trace of
gold and black, which, together with
the jet nailheads, gives the requisite
touch of black which is almost indis
pensable If the costume is to have the
best style.
Embroidery on Gowns.
Glimpses of a few new gowns and
blouses Indicate that hand embroidery
will be lavishly used. Persian effects
in embroidered bands or bold designs
form the newest garnitures. Well
gowned women are wearing long-skirt
ed or basque coats, tightly fitting, and
buttoned down the front. Most ot
these have the regulation coat sleeve.
Others have leg-o’-mutton sleeves,
with gauntlet cuffs. Where sleeves
are large the fullness is generally
above the elbow. To be worn with
these long coats, tailors are making
strikingly smart little Louis XV
vests. These are made of the hand
some vestings which come for men’s
waistcoats. Lace and tucked net vests
are worn with dressy broadcloth
gowns, where narrow bands of fur
are used as a bodice and skirt trim
ming. Some of the short walking
suits are also fur-trimmed.
doir
nSidences
l
Coarse meshes rule in veils.
Shirred “nun's tucks" make an ef
fective and stylish garniture.
Fine tucks in body depth are a fea
ture of the gowns of little girls.
All sorts of rosettes are made of
handsome double-face ribbons.
Ribbon bows and sashes add a pret
ty touch to most thin gowns.
Guimpes will play an Important part
In the small girl's wardrobe.
Chiffon scarfs, two yards and a half
In length, will float from some fall
hats.'
Full, fluffy modes are more becom
ing to the tall, slender girl of awk
ward age.
A scalloped lower outline marks
many stylish collars and deep berthas
on girls' bodices.
Lovely Drawing-Room Gown.
A lovely gown worn In a fashion
able drawing-room the other day was
of black net. It was trimmed with a
very heavy lace applique. This trim
ming extended around the foot of the
gown and up the front. The lining
of the dress was of black satin.
Bnt the distinguishing feature lav in
its note of blue. For the gown, which
was of heavy black net, lustrous and
trimmed with much gorgeousness, w as
belted around the waist with a wide
blue sash. This, which was banded
around the waist to form a girdle, was
tied on the back in a heavy knot,
while the ends hung down to the foot
of the skirt. They were wide sash
ends, too, and made a beautiful note
of color upon the skirt.
This fancy for wearing a blue sash
with a black gown is quite a growing
one and is to be observed frequently.
Again, a wide red satin ribbon sash is
tied around the waist of an all-black
gown. So that the note of color is
complete.
Velvet Hat Trimming.
A new and simple method of using
wide ribbon velvet on a large hat was
exemplified by a woman lunching at
Sherry’s. The hat was a dull green. It
had a wide brim and low round crown,
the latter very small in proportion to
tke brhn. The straw was a fine chip
A band of dark green velvet encircled
the crown, and from it, at irregular
intervals, extended plain flat widths of
the velvet ribbon, the ends cut in two
poiats—that is, a V-shaned section was
cut out of the centre at each end.
These pointed sections were of differ
ent lengths, and one extended nearly
to the edge of the brim. Two or three
similar sections were fastened to the
underbrim, which flared up a little at
one side.—New York Tribune.
Neckwear Novelties.
Novelties in neckwear are to be met
with everywhere, and so kmc as the
throat is enveloped in some smart
style it scarcely matters what is worn.
Just a few women—they are always
English and as a rule of the rag and
bone and hank of hair persuasion—
still denude themselves of a collar
and wear a string of pearls to supply
its loss, but they are hopelessly out
of style. Eor an afternoon or semi
evening blouse the transparent dollar
of lace or embroidery is necessary,
but for morning wear fancy runs riot
in the way of little linen jabots and
cravats. The narrow turnover collar
of linen or lawn is still chic, and so
neat and becoming that it will not eas
ily be ousted from the fashionable re
gard.
t
White Linen Embroidered.
Yoke waists made of linen embroid
ered in openwork, or eyelet, style
are much worn and always are hand
some. This very stylish model is
peculiarly well adapted to the treat
ment, as it includes a central box
Design by May Manton.
plait and shaped cuffs both of which
are eminently effective, and is closed
invisibly. When liked, however, the
yoke and the box plait at the back,
which is applied, can be omitted and
the model used for a plainer waist.
Also the back can either be made to
blouse or drawn down snugly as liked.
To make the waist for a woman of
medium size will be required 5*6
yards 21, 4% yards 27 or 2%, yards 44
inches wide.
Everything Tucked.
Everything is shirred or tucked this
summer. Shirt waists are tucked,
and whole frocks are tucked, and
smart little coats are tucked or plait
ed all over. Gowns of soft materials
are shirred, and it is the prettiest pos
sible way to make them. The one
illustrated this week is a charming
example. It is of white dimity, dotted
with pink. The waist has a shirred
yoke, and then blouses over a girdle
of pink silk. The skirt is shirred in
four places, and finished with a little
ruffle at the foot. A hat of white
shirred lawn is w'orn with this frock,
the only trimming being a big soft
bow of pale pink ribbon. The shirt
waist illustrated this week is of a de
sign suitable for silk linen, or any
wash goods. The flat little box plaits
are very smart, and the lace or em
broidery used down the front and
around the neck gives a very pretty
finish.
r
To Make Cup Custard.
One quart of milk. 5 eggs, 5 heap
ing tablespoons sugar, % saltspoon
salt, 1 teaspoon vanilla. Heat milk;
beat eggs, whites and yolks separate
ly, beat salt and sugar Into yolks; add
heated milk a little at a time, stir
well; then add beaten whites aad re
turn to fire. It is almost impossible
to make custard successfully without
a double boiler. Use two pans If you
have no boiler. Stir gently while
cooking. When cnstard is nearly
cooked, the foam on top disappears,
the custard clings to the spoon. Do
not leave It a second; stir constantly.
When cooked perfectly smooth, take
from fire and turn to cool In cups In
which it is to be served. Sherbet
glasses are most commonly need.
In Black Lace.
“How can I hare a pretty black
lace gown,'* asked a perplexed wom
an, "without paying for it?” The ques
tion is a difficult one, but may be an
swered by suggesting a substitute.