Harrison press-journal. (Harrison, Nebraska) 1899-1905, February 20, 1902, Image 6
Grass Basket Dr. Hugo Kinncr of 1103 Kutgei street, St. Louis, has brought from the Moki, Navujo and Havisupal In dian reservations in New Mexico a collection of wonlerful Indian bas kets, the malting of which is said by Geoige Wharton James and Plot's. Holme. Mawm and McGee to the FmithMMilan to be fa.-it becoming a lost art. Dr. Kinner has baskets so artistical ly woven as to be water tight. Some" of them, in fait, were made to hold soup arid other liquids. This Heav ing, which is done by patient squaw with no accounting: of time or profit, is pronounced by. ethnologists the tin tit and most skillful in the world, even excelling' that of the buskttmakers of Japan and the coil weavers of the Congo river. Desiring that the wonderful work of the-se Indian women of the Southwest sh;;ll not pass without record. Prof. Mason, curator of the department of ethnology at the Smitlieonian, has pre pared, with the assistance of Profs. Holmes and McGeee, a government publication descriptive of Indian bas ketry, j Dr. Klnner goes every year among some of the Indians of the southwest. He has several times visited the In dians of Mexico, and it quite familiar with the basketry of these people. The Moki have been wonderful basket ma kers as long as white men have known them. They weave their baskets of grasses or the roots of grasses and And many things in the desert flora that serve to decorate the baskets. Dr. Kinner has secured some especially fine specimens within the last year, being more successful In bargaining with the squav.-s than he had been upon any previous visit. The Moki are the most ceremonious of all primitive peoples, and they scarcely make any thing that Is without some religious attachment and is not regarded as a fetish necessary to the peace and happiness of the Moki people. For this reason It Is difficult to purchase some of the finer creations of the bas- ket weavers. Dr. Klnner has one water-tight bowl which Uc only secured after a residence of four weeks among the Indians and an acquanltance with the Indian agent through a letter frohi the secretary of the Interior. The coveted grass bowl secured by Dr. Kinner is an almost indestructible vessel. It is made of coils of grass so closely woven as to render the threads almost Indistinguishable. The coIIb are almost an Inch In diameter, and they have a consistency very much like that of wire rope. Dr. Kinner says the old squaws of the tribes do this work, bending over their weaving in their smoky hobans ten and twelve hours a day without uttering a word or tasting food. Their skill at the weaving seems an Inheritance from an cestors who were doing the same thing Prince Huiwha Prince Huiwha, third son of King LI Hsi of Corea, is at the Corean le gation at Washnigton awaiting the ar rival of J30.000 from his father, that he may pay various debts contracted from money lenders. Much of this money was spent In Coney Island and New York In clothes, theaters, banquets and various 'other allurements calculated to attract a prince only 20 years old. Prince Huiwha was sent to this country with J4.000 a year at his com mand to attend the Roanoke univer siay. This was In 1900. After a year at the university, during which time he learned a great deal of the customs and manners of the country. Prince Huiwha visited this city and incident ally Coney Island. An ultimate ex penditure of $30,000 was the result. For this amount he gave a great many notes to money lenders, who did not sea fit to refuse the son of a king ; anythii.s lie might ask. ! There are no dissipation In Corea . upon which a young and active prin"e can spend 14,000 a year. There are no merry-go-rounds, or chutes, or knock out drops, or "heads-I-wln-tails-you-ione" games at which a. crown prince may enjoy himself. It is probable, therefore, that the prince never had a thrill until reached the Roanoke university. he For years he had been hidden away and preserved from assaaslnalion.much as a careful housewife preserves a su gar plum from little Johnny. In Corea It Is said that all youth are callow until they marry and set tle down. Huiwha had visions of settling at Roanoke for a four-year course of study. He did nothing of the kind. In a moment of benevolence some of the Roanoke youths took him out to see life. Huiwha succumbed. No more pot bat and morning glory pajamas for him. He began to acquire American hab its and American clothes. Eighty-seven suits and eighty-seven fancy waist coats Vc his present number, which la undoubtedly the Corean record. Ia a short time he had outgrown his M.M a 7r by several thousand. Then mil th summer vacation. What would Primes Huiwha dor Go to New Tsrk, asoong other things. EXJhsr t went with hla tittle browa TsJst Far a fsw days he was stun aofl, Tfcsa with graft preasnca -of salad 1st ftiwsa to tba occasion sad cast DM aawvotkal ftotaa which, by th way, at pavteotly m oft tha Xew Tars waters. Zj Cars tfcar to Nek tfctftf M Weaving Becoming a Lost Art : when the first Spanlnh explorers In vaded the southwest. James George Wharton James, a student of the In dians of New Mexico, says the art of basketry is being lost because the old squaws are dying and the young wo men are not weaving baskets, being satisfied to buy cheap utensils from the white man. Prof. Mason credits the Puma In dians of California with being the TtioSt" exjiei t of air basket wea vers. Pome of the Poma baskets run from forty to sixty stitches to the inch, and ill the finer vessels Jhu threads can not always be counted with the aid of a glass. The few baskets that are now being made are merely for commercial pur poses, and are hurried and coarse af fairs. So longer does the squaw sit patiently and fiimly weave her treas ure basket, destined to be buried with her chief or to be handed down to the next generation as an heirloom. No more does she search for roots and berries which make the soft browns, and dull burnt reds that colored so effectively her works'-of art, but the baskets are hurriedly woven, the faster the better, and the crude aniline dyes of the paleface are good enough for blankets throwing the dice into the decorative purposes. In the fancy bas- tray for wampum, their raoiu y. The kets no longer do the feathers lie as spots on the dice counted for noth stnooth as on a bird's back, but are ing, but the man who threw them in thinly scattered and point In all di-!sucha way that the fiat sides faced reetions The ceremonial or sacrificial baskets of the Poma Indians are considered the highest art in lasketry. The sun basket, which was treasured more than any of this variety, was made basin - shape and was eo.'ertd with red feathers worked In such a fashion that they were as smooth as on a bird's breast. These baskets have become exceed ingly rare, and many collectors would willingly pay !lf0 to obtnln a first class one. Other much sought after baskets of the Pomas are the "tsal," "bam-tui.n," "bum-tfu-wu, "cusel" and "ti" weaves. The "tsa!" wav is commonly known among basket collectors as the coil weave. These baskets are mostly used as trinket and treasure receptac les, and were rarely seen about the wig- warns, the Indians kerning them well concealed frorn the light, and baskets made many years ago, but with the app?aranoe of recent manufiicturc.have been discovered. Some of the larger and coarser flbered baskets were. how ever, used for mush and soup bowls. Those of the bam-tuo weave were probably the most useful baskets to the Indians. They were principally used a? burden carriers. The "bam-tsu-wu" weave Is eonsid- ered the finest of the Fomas, and made a basket so closely woven as to he water tight. These were ued tor treasure and trinket caskets, and were rarely in evidence about the wigwams. Sees the Sights forbidden fruit, especially for a prince I of the blood. But here he must buy. I And with a prtsenoe of mind equal to that of Huiwha himself everybody raised the price. The Hay-market, the Tivoll, the Rans Sonel, whet ever he went he was gently but firmly sep arated from a portion of his money. He had been 'instructed to maintain the most cordial relations with the people of the United States." Coney Island seemed a likely field for cordial relations, so thither he hied with his valet on a trolley car. This was at the height of the fash ionable season last summer. ' Here at last was the real thing the paradise approximating that prom ised by Buddha. He sent back to the city for his trunks. He was 20 years old and money was j toorommon to k,'-p. ion the Bowery as a He went down likely point of vantage from whic h to enter society, -''t-''J It with a plunge. Thf tnbl's at v. hirh he 3;et In the various ronrt looked like football scrimmages ir.d l!t!v.h looked like the man with the m-n. In tV-e epeni-pters he lost no button or hair or cuticle. He lost nothing but money, , But to him a thousand dollars was a trivia bubble, thirty thousand a mere bagatelle. Many of the odallsqu-s along the Bowery tried to stake out a claim and establish an ownership on the ground that they had seen him first. But Huiwha was nothing If not Im partial. As for the valet, he had ne ver had such a time In his life. Whenever a note ran to matur(r Huiwha, not being contented with sorm. of the programs In the concert halls, arranged private entertainments a la Otto of Bavaria, at which the lan guishing hourls of the stage danced with extreme candor. When the $30,000 was gone the hou ris, to use a Coney Island expression, "miged." The prince from New Tork went to Washington, whither, it is said, vari ous clamors had preceded him, In the way of suits at law. Prince Huiwha has no Intention of disowning his acts. As be himself aays: 'This la a Just debt Tha mon ey was borrowed and I owe It. How It was spent la a matter of my private concern." With Oriental complacency ha thus admits the spending of tba monay, but declares that tba detail thereof are tow ffttbjulBt to remember. H to vary tatotmat toward the busl- BMft who bftTS swad bba. Ha hot roitafe tha pmbtteity, bat to WM3I &ftt UV ahouM gat tbslr The baskets are made from the root of an exceedingly fin? slsush gr"j and were generally elaborately spEn gled with wampum and abalone shells. The Indians, always careful to show appreciation for a guest, walked a fine bowl-shaped basket out of this weave and used it only as a gue-st plate. The gambling tray and dice of the Tulare Indians and neighboring tribes is probably one of the r.iot Interest- irrg-speetnieTTS Tn tfte wwM, ii-Untidlmmg Kong -and Cawion -is-infenUd other reason than for Us rarity, th -re being no more than six in existence throughout the country. The tray is plakue shape, and is of ordinary weave, but the dice are the very odd est seen. They are made of a haif shi 11 of the native walnut, an ex ceedingly hard shell nut now believed to be extinct. The kernels and Inside walls were dug out and the hollow filled with a combination of asphaltuin and pitch, and the filling Inlaid with bits of abalone shell or with glass beads for -ornamentation. The rough ness of the nut shell was then ground away with rocks till the surface was perfectly smooth, and they were flien highly polished. No longer are lh Indians seen silting in groups on their upward counted a point, and the first one who ot twelve won Hie game. Kight dice constituted a set, and the Indians had a certain knack In throw ing them that, as a rule, left at least (half facing upward, but let a whilt man try and all would invailably f.ic, 'down. The squaws made ail the ba- kets and dice. fj ! The bottle neck baskets of the Tu lare and Kern Indians were used most ly for the storing of treasures ui trinkets, and were never brought out by the old squaws, who always nan them burled with them The culinary baskl of the Tulare are some what similar in shape to those of the Pomos. although a trifle e-oarsei In weave. The cooking of soup in j these baskets was done by putting th liquid in and then dropping in ho! 1 stones, the liquid preventing the siones from burning the fiber. The Tulare had a course rd basket for eveiyday use In which they stored their edibles. Iyoulsville Courier-Journal: Is Dr. Parkhurst. in now breaking out with the announcement that only some fumlc it re Immitrlnl r1urriiiu f.F quiring further notoriety at the hancK say of that Chicago minister who j wishes to skin allv the man who j question the Infallibility of the bible j and of those Nashville ministers who propose to use shotguns to keep the- atrlcal performances out of the build ing erected for the performances of Rev. 8am Jones. of New York, Judgment again him and th-n pass the bill and costs along to his roa! papa In Seoul. f- He hardly cares to consider whether or not the plaintiffs In the suits could recover anything froix- him or hit father. He is accustomed to turn all these little mailers over to chamber lains and royal stewards. His royal highness does not seem to understand the reason why ny money lender should doubt him. The attendants and attaches of the legation look leniently on the prince. They have assured hlrn that he has not transgressed any law. It Is a matter of course that he should need money. When spoken?to about It by arwriter for the press, Prince Huiwha looked rather bored. "It is not extraordinary." he said. "Often when I took a trip my valet forgot to carry my things along, and there was nothing to do but to buy new ones. "Sometimes we left for little Jour neys with hardly any preparations and then of course we had to buy clothes and all that sort of thing." With every one of his eighty-seven suits of clothes the prince has a beau tifully embroidered waistcoat. The money he owes will be paid as soon as communication can be had with Seoul, the Corean capital. Of course the payment w 111 be made In the usual leisurely munner peculiar to the Orient. In the meantime Coney Isl and will continue to hope for the re crudesce nee of the piince. Prof. Charles Wilson has announced to the Koyal Society a new determi nation of the tmperature of the sun, which with due allowance for the slight and unavoidable errors is placed at M00 iW. Centigrade and 11,132 dec. Fahrenheit. If, the probable absorp tion of the sun's radiated heat by Its own atmosphere is allowed for, the mean temperature Of the sifni body is placed at 6.CO0 deg. Centigrade. I'rof. Wilson started bis calculations almost ten year ago. It has often been claimed that tha presence of nickel In dust I a suffi cient criterion to distinguish It as of cosmic arther than of terrestrial or igin. It has lately been shown that nickel la found In soot and hence that nlckaUferou duat may be terrestrial. Q allium, also Is found In all aluminous minerals, In many flue dusts, in many Iron oram, to soot and In atmospbarto dost Tha hasUlva of tha a-rtnoa la iha mrcn yet diacovtraeL " ', j I The Pirates of Piracy on the high seas is a thing of the past exept'ris In China. "High seas" covers rivers In Its meaning. On river piracy still exists In China, par ticularly on the rivers that meander through Interior China outside the pale of European Interference. On the Yang-tse Kiang on which Is situated Canton, the operations of these river wolves are flagrantly fre quent. The stretch of river between with them, but not so much as the upper river, as It Is patroled by Brit ish, French and German gunboats and all foreign steamers are armed. The fact that piratts exist In largj numbers on this stretch of water Is not known to travelers until after they board their steamer at Hong Kong foi Canton. After the boat has left her berth one Is surprised to see the crew cast the lashings from fix or seven rapid-fire cannon placed In advantage ous positions about the vessel. He Is further surprised to ree the crew don cutlasses, revolvers and rifles." As he enters the rrfsln saloon he Is dumbfounded and begins to think he has taken passage on a man-of-war when he is confronted by a rack filled with Iee-Metford rifles' over which a sign hangs. On it is printed: "Don't Handle In Case of Trouble Take One." TALES OF CKtELTY. The traveler turn-i to the ship's onV cers and inquires the reason for so much warlike preparation for a Voyage to Hong Kong and is informed that the river Is Infested with pirates. Inquiry further develops dark and daring deeds performed by these celestial water wolves, which almost make one's hair raise. The danger of open attack by these vermin Is not feared. It Is the stealthy night attacks from those who have secreted themselves aboard the steam er before she leaves port and who aiise at an opportune time, overpower ciew and passengers and run the steamer up some creek in the interim of the country and loot her at their pleasure. To avoid taking aboard this clans, every Chinese pa-esenger stepping aboard the steamer at her stalling point is rigorously searched for arm of all kinds, if a Chinaman Is caught with even a knife in his possession, he is arrested and sei.u-nced to carry the "coque" about the streets of Can ton for a period of three months. A toque is a bamboo frame weigh ing about 100 pounds. In the bottom of the frame Is a hole, Into which is in serted the head of the offender. The frame is then fastened so that he can not remove It. The ofTendc-r's name Is ped on the frame. Anyone may, If he or she chooses, spit at the unfor tunate or subjec t him to any other in dignity. CHINKSK SCHEMES. The Chinese resort to all sorts of schemes to smuggle arms aloard and the officers of the vessel have to be vigilant at all times. The Chinese cus toms department, which is handled by' a 'corps of Englishmen, aids vessels In examining Chitn.se passengers as do Execution of Jai k. the huge elephant, hese mar velous tricks have dellghte'd half the urchins of the west and set the older to wondering. Is dead at Haraboo, the victim of an execution at which a brother elephant acted as the c hief as sistant. The head executioner was Jack's keeper and trainer. Pearl Hchadde, who had a lender afiwtion for the big beast, and who adminis tered the fatal dose of chloroform in mercy to the poor beast's esuffering Hhumatlsm had pursued the big ele phant relentlc-sly, and his owners, the Itingling Brothers, deemed it more humane to end his sufferings than to let him roar and shriek with pain a he had done for the greater part of the past two seasons. The spot selected for Jack's execu tion wees In the building adjoining the elephant house. With wonderful Intui tion the big fellow- seemed to 'know waht was coming and became hard to handle. Huge pulley block were at tached to stakes and anchors driven In the ground, and during the prelim inary operations Jack pricked up his ears and listened to the hammer and sledge blows in the next house with every Indication of alarm. Finally, the scaffejld complete, Jack was started for the death chamber, followed closely by a brother elephant, i took great Coaxing to get Jack Into the house, and this finally had tor he supplemented with a little prodding reeded In ge tting Its uilors together, ' )hTpi ,n(' ,on Perpendicular sprays, with the familiar elephant hook. (and by working almost night and day rmin' which all the rest of the mater Once at the death blocks strong completed the 1,600 pieces required at Cut away, allowing them to bang ropes were put around the beast's it o'clock a. rn. the following morning. In detatched rootlrei. legs and feet. Another was tied around his neck. Thence the ropes ran through the pulleys and were at tached to the assistant elephant's har ness. At a signal Jack's brother mammoth tightened on the ropes, but Jack, seeming to know he was fighting for bis life, resisted to the uttermost. With a roar that shook the earth he struggled to free himself. His strong trunk awung with dangerous force and lightning rapidity In' all directions, and In hla excitement and Impotent rage be drove hla great Ivory tusks Into the floor. Weakened by his long sickness, he wss, however, no match for Ms strong brother at the other and w "pew, anej bhist b iaw momantr stngg Im fa" P and sank to ths China s Rivers, the English river policemen. As these steamers carry from 2,5u0 to 5,000 Chi nese on each trip, It can be readily seen that an uprising by them would be very serious in Its result to th crew and other passengers whose total number at any time does not exceed 200. The English, French, German and Chinese keep small gunboats patroling the river and its tributaries for pl ralau but Cjpcasionally he Chinese avoid these watchful dogs and capture an unarmed steamer or sailing craft. During the time I was there a small steamer chartered by a naval officer and a party of English and French residents of Hong Kong for a hunting trip on the river, was attaeked by pirates in the night and narrowly escaped capture. One of the steamer's occupants was killed and two wound ed. A story Is told of the capture thre years ago of a big steamer in the pas senger trade between Hong Kong and Canton by pirates. Thirty of them smuggled revolvers aboard the steam er in Jars of ginger. When the vessel was well on the way ip Hong Kong, they secured the weapons and captured the officers and crew. STEAMER WAS LOOTED. With a revolver at his head the en gineer was forced tp run the steamer up an obscure tributary of the river where the whites were turned adrift and the vessel was looted. Her skele ton, stripped of plates, bolts and ev erything else, was found by a gunboat some inonths later. If the mandarins who govern the territory adjacent to the river were not hand and glove with the robbers the pirates would be very short lived Occasionally a pirate is captured and he Is beheaded with great ceremony. But the execution is only a sop thrown co me Europeans to cause them to cease their clamor against piracy for a time. The flotilla of silk Junks which con vey (he silk to Canton and Hong Kong are spec ial prey of the priales.'x Thev eome down the river from the far in terior away from the protection of the gunboats. Home use sails for propul sion while others use a big wooden sti-in whe-el which Is revolved by fifty of sixty Chinamen who use a tread mill. All these Junks are armed with long Iron i,nd brass cannon of very obsolete pattern. They are- all the same patternabout ten feet long and about six Inchers In diameter at their blgge-st end 'and taper down to the muzzle to about the size of a small caliber rifle. They are swung on a swhel which resembles a row lock and not much bigger. The crew of the Junk are- armed w ith spears and old flint loe k guns. Barely does an account of the many tierce encounters between the pirates and crews of these silk Junks ever reach the, English settlements. Although prices have fallen greatly at Dawson, there Is still no use for f or 10 cent pieces. The price of a fe-w articles only Is as low as a quarter of a dollar. an Elephant, .round, pinioned r,,,,i ;,i the 'mercy ol his Hl.iy.-is. The other, elephant waf then tnken from the building that he might uot witness the sights that Wert to follow. , Two quart bottles, nearly filled with chloroform were brought out, and twe huge sponges, saturated with the liquid, were applied to Jack's nejstrlls. The spongt-s were covered with heavy cloths, so that none of thJ deadly fluid might evaporate in the air. Jar-k gazed into the eye-s of his keeper with a mute' appeal for help that taxed Hchndde's fortitude to the uttermost. Finally the great monster closed hif eyes, restoration became harder, hii heart beats more Indistinct, his breath ing more difhVult and at longer Inter vals, and after several minutes, during which the sponges were again wet, the mammoth of the African Junglet was dead. At the last he uttered on frantic cry, which was taken up by the animals In the adjoining quarters The other members of the elephant h ,-. I Vi fi 1- A , i . , , - , 1 I . ' ... , ,,. ii juuril Hi'H, Held out of habit, still leave an opening be tween them, where he was accustomed to stand. The British army clothing factory , in Calcutta recently received an order for 800 khaki sufts for a regiment al- p. in. on a Saturday. Although the day was a holiday the factory suc- forwarding them to overtake the de- parting regiment before It left India. ' This savors more of American plan than English methods. She's as pretty as a picture, A stylish aa can be; She's a pleasant conversationalist - And quick at repartee. In fact, she's quite a paragon, Though not without a taint; With all her winning qualities, he will aay "ain't." For tha biggest fish ever offered for aala at OstenS. tA has Inat Kn nalil It was a sturgeon, weighing nearly 400 pounds, and measuring nine feet In length, with a firth of twenty-four lnchss. -. I MatRICB HMTWM, Friends of Barry mors recent! oa- , Joyed a little witticism at bis eipenso . by Augustus Thomas. The celebrated playwright bad been mercilessly pick ing flaws In the actor's drama until tha S9!4-n!ihired Harry winced. "Oh, come, Gus!M be Interruptad, "don't be cnlte so hard If It's not an 'Alabama.' Just remember that I wrota It in a week." j "Did you. Barry?" retorted Thomas. "Then you must have loafed." Steel Mackaye diagnosed Barrymora as an actor who In order to become fsmouT'heetTed ohTy a great sorrow." To Mackaye he Invariably replied that he and sorrow were still strangers. Once, however, he went to Mackaya with a long fare, arid melancholy brow, low and tremulous tones, and, choking back a sob. said: "D?ar old Steele, when you ftjade that jesting prediction a'ootit me and sorrow you had no Idea how soon It would come true, and you can not be surprised that I now coma to you for heartfeU sympathy. Steele! Steele! my friend, I have broken my pet fingernail! " Admlrr'i -f Barrymore will remem ber his hb!t of lighting scores of cigar ettes during a performance and have, of course, supposed that part of tha "business" of the play. But it was a "business" that Barry injected for the author. The actor was seldom letter perfect in h!s parts, and h!s memory of late years was not to be depended upon. "Whn I'm at a loss for ft word." Barrymore explained to a friend, who asked hin about this habit. "I alwaya light a clttarette. It gives me a chance to think." Barrymore undoubtedly bad to think very often. BARTI.KT CAMPBKIX, II l Karroaane nn iha Night His First Piny Was I'naantad, Campbell was originally a reporter on a Pittsburg paper, and it wag while he was go employed that he had the manuscript of "The White Slave" ac cepted for production at a local theater. He had to defray some of the expenses of the production, and having no means of hig own, had succeeded In borrowing a couple of hundred dollars from friends for the purpose. The night of the first performance his naturally nervous and exriteable nature was so wrought up by anxiety that he was afraid to go to thet heater and watch the performance. Meeting a friend on the street he took him into an adjacent hotel, and telling him of his fears, besought the friend's com pany. Afier taking three or four drinks of brandy with his friend Camp bell mustered up enough courage to go to thei theater. The first act was al most ended as the two men entered. and at its conclusion the applause was so tremendous that all doubt as to the play's success was dissipated. "Let's get, out and get a drink." said Casobrll to his friend. The two men were soon back at the hottl with a botrlo of champagne be fore them this time. As Campbell emptied hig glass he aid: "Do yott know what I intended to d tonight, Dick ?" , "No," was the friend's reply. Campbell reachf d into hi pot ket, and bringing out a wicked-looking revolver, laid It on the table. "If 'The White Slave had failed," be said, "I was going to blow out my brains there In the theater." Campbell didn't blow out bis braina, but In a few succeeding years of pros perity managed to drink them out II turned night Into day, and in a few years the Inevitable result of his reck less dlglpatltn developed Itself. Pare sis came, and the madhouse became bis home. A brjef period of detention, and the brilliant Hartley Campbell was taken out a corpse. Chicago Inter Ocean. Tha Matorn to Iha Tnnle. Advices from Paris say that the re turn of tunics appears a settled ques tion, less, however, for general street wear than in the case of more dressy toilettes. This Is but natural, as' a longer skirt show them to better ad vantage. There is a new and pretty manner of disposing them which meets with much favor. The long underskirt may be of ailk or the aamo teitilo It matters llttl hilt the bem of the tunic la adorned by -err d. rt,-,,n , .,,. ) a very deep design cut In the material Itself and forming part of it If of a floral description It Is In the shape of Theso are flxd on the underskirt over which they are cut to the length f ten nr t,iv .1.1... . - buttonhole stitch surrounding them, or metallic thread. Tba affect Is extremely good and . novel. If another description of design ' Is adopted It Is arranged so as to form aa Irregular and Indented a border as possible. " o Tba underskirt Is usually of th same color, but occasionally of 00Q -treating shade, losing nothing by tks latter arrangement Though In pott of fact " torm inm bat u Mpoaraaot of a stparait t1