The Sioux County journal. (Harrison, Nebraska) 1888-1899, July 14, 1898, Image 3
RICH SHIRT WAISTS. WORN IN VERY ELABORATE t 8TYLES. Tbey An Made la Combinations of Different Material, and In Forma Ho Vaacifal as to Alaaoat Take Than Oat af the ahlrt Waiat Cli Faacle of the Reason. Ma York correspondence: JCDUCE her wardrobe ai you will, she can get long If only you will leave her plenty of ahlrt walsta. Among the very prettiest designs for morn ing and early aft ernoon wear are walata made of crisp taffeta or eoft China Bilk of the sort to-day'e Initial ahowa. Aa pic tured these seem almpllclty Itaelf, but fine weTea and artlatlc colors give to then a delicacy that la their beat char acteristic. Tbey are laid In a lot of tiny tucka from abouldera to bust line, and the fulness escaping there la drawn Into the belt. A plain band down the front ahowa little pearl buttona. If linen collar and cnffa are worn with eucb a waist It la severe enough for a tailor skirt. The la teat fad, however, la to lend frivolity by dainty collar and cuffs of One lawn finished with lace, pique gowna are among the moat popu Taffeta or other crisp silk makes up lar of the season, and are Intended for in walata that are a bit leas Informal city wear by tboae detained from the than those of China or almple, soft silk, country. Indeed, a waist like the first three of ! It la an Innovation of the aeaaon that these shown here may be boned, though I different kinds of wash goods are corn one of the potent reasons for the popu-1 blned In maklug waists, just as silk larity of ahlrt waists Is that tbey are 1 and chiffon are combined. Some of the not all stiff with bones. In tbia model, I prettiest and newest walata are made which Is a type of many, diagonal rows ' of white linen, percale or duck, the en of tucks laid In groups of seven or eight i tire front being covered by shirred met In points front and back. Straps ! lawn drawn to a dainty ruche to cover something like the suspender straps of I the fastening down the front. Collar a season or so ago crossed In the back, and cuffs match the plain part of the ELABORATIONS THAT ATTACH TO SHIRT WAISTS. and pasaed from shoulders to belt at , either aide of the fastening In front, A pretty ruche of silk covered the but- tons with which the waist closed, and this ruche showed between the turned-j over corners of the high -plain collar, , which was of silk finished with a mil- liner's fold to match "suspenders" and cuffs. This waist was canary colored, but the design is pretty In any light hade like green, blue or the ever popu- Lar white, though the last Is, perhaps, the least preferable of all. With such ' a waist a belt to match of folded silk Is prettier than a leather one; the leather belt Is more In place with a plainer shirt waist The ruff of alik down the , front gives the finish of daintiness that makes a dainty hat lu good taste, and oiihaihtati t nti.isvas at.KXtKKBSS. an afternoon call or even church In the country are occasions where such a bodies would not be out of place, yet be can Include It among her ahlrt waists. When It comes to allowing aomethlng la the nature of a waistcoat front, elab-at-ate braiding and a really ornate col lar and neck finish, she ought not to Call tb garment a shirt waist. But be argues that It need not match the shirt nnd that considering the present laborats frivolity of the fashion, It aan not be called "fancy," and so It oat be blrt waist The middle one f tbeae three pictures shows how far ill If, In tlil case, ih material is pupie, If the Braiding i the very latest Idea of heavy white linen cord held down by loose overstltching of linen thread, f ,11 the frills are crisp lawn, the stock crinkled lawn and if the sklr. U quite plain except for none braiding to mutch the bodice, then she can claim that the cos'nme la "just a simple skirt with ahlrt waist to match." These waist, and It la the right thing now to have a change of collars and cuffs to match the waist, and not to depend on the "trade" linen collars and cuffs, Shirt waists of this pattern lire made In all colors and sometimes the plain portion Is a soft blue or rose, and the lawn Is white. White duck and rose were used In the model sketched, Neither In cut nor in materials do these three waists Indicate to what limits the shirt waist's elaboration has (tone. The two remaining pictures Mhow this better, for It Is In such waists that organdy and silk are combined, nil sorts of dainty effects being secured by draping the organdy In different direc tions over the silk. In the first of these Is a device that unfits the garment for a plump woman, or one of moderate girth, but full figure, but It makes the waist charmingly suitable to a slender woman. Tbla feature was the two wide puffs of organdy that crossed over the bust, passing from armholes to belt. The organdy was laid In tucka across the chest between the puffs, a yoke- abaped portion of the plain silk show ing above. The rest of the bodice was draped with the organdy drawn very full In perpendicular folds. It Is amaz ing bow much curve and plumpness was thus suggested for the figure, while mere bunchlness would be the result. If the organdy were draped all one way. A stock of folded organdy, and a frill of lace graduated to under the chin made the neck dressy, and the slrfevee had, aa relief from entire plain ness, a few tucka below the shoulder. Such a waist Is dressy enough to wear with a taffeta silk skirt and Is voted not too elaborate to go with a cloth skirt or one of poplin. It may have its skirt to match, or be worn separate and made, as tbla one was, of turquoise blue, will be the prettiest possible thing for a young girl. Draping the waist with lawn, or gandy, liberty silk or chiffon Is possible for the full figure, but It should be ac- compllshed In a different manner. The concluding Illustration showa the way It may be done tastefully and In the newest fashion. Here pink chiffon was drawn Into tiny, close-laid accordion pleats over silk In the same ahsde. Ki uulslte workmanship waa shown In the matching of tbeae pleats In back, the result being as different aa could be from careless "fulling on." Instead of one ruche down the front there may be two, and the ends of aa elaborate scarf may ripple down In the space between Copyright, About one-third of the a treats ac in iuaoiMiii was oocmtis W ITED. SGUUUiS STORIES. iNTERTAININQ REMIN1CE NCt S OF THE WAR. Graphic Account of Mlrrlnc France Witnessed on the Bsttlefleld end In Cap-Vetereneofthe Hebelllon Be rite experiences of Thrilling Nature. Every Man Waa with Him. -W O veterans stood at the desk t I o n swapping reminiscences for the entertainment of a group of eager listeners. T h e enthual aam displayed by you young fellows in rushing to en list," said one, "re mluda me of the impatience and high " feather with which the youngstera of my day hailed the approach of hostilities with the Confederate. You remember how M was, don't you, Bill?" "Yea," replied the second old soldier, smilingly. "I thought I waa going lown South on a picnic frolic, and the only fear I bad was that It wouldn't last long enough but tt did; It did." "That waa the way I felt about if' continued the first veteran; "that la until I got under lire, and then for ten minutes, I'm not ashamed to confess, I was the worst scared volunteer who ever hankered for war. There were tens of thousands who experienced the tame fright, however, and tbey were aot necessarily cowarda, either. But the sight of a couple of thousands of rifle barrels suddenly and moat unex pectedly rising out of a dense under growth in a thick wood, and all seem ingly blazing away at your exposed bosom, is enough to send a cold shiver down any man'a back, no matter how high he may stand In the bard school of courage. "It was at Pair Oaka, May 31, 1862, that Bill here and I first saw war, act ual, terrible war, after weeks of golden dreams of valoroas achievement and no thought of battle's grim horrors. We were In the same company, of which I was Junior lieutenant and Bill waa a sergeant. Our regiment was held In reserve for some hours after the tight opened, and the chafing to get at the Johnnies and spill gore was In tense, especially among the men of my raw company. Long standing at arms. ttv. had begun to tell on them, and they were muttering and apparently on the verge of mutiny. But. at last came the welcome order to go .Into action. nd away with a whoop we rushed. making a detour so as to fall on John ston's flank. Just as my. company wept up to( the rattlesnake fence which edged an adjacent wood banked high with underbrush, about 2,000 of the enemy arose with the rebel yell. and poured one thunderous volley Into us. To say the unexpected fire caused a check Is superfluous. It simply caus ed a stampede. But In a few moments the confusion had sulmlded and I look ed around to see how our men had stood It. Oentlemen, I cannot express to you how gratified I was to find that every mnn under my command was still at my side, like a faithful hero. Wasn't that so, Bill?" "Yes," responded Bill with a laugh which could have been heard a block away, "we were all witn you to a man half a mile away, and flat on our tomachs behiud a stone fence." Chi cago Inter Ocean. Grant In the W Iderness. Oh, It was an Intensely intereating itudy my study of Orant at cloae range In the Wilderness!" The speaker was the Bev. Theodore Gerrlsh, a Maine veteran of the civil war. I repeat his story as I heard him tell It Ah! I can never forget that terrible day In 1804, when was fought the first of the two days' bloody battles of the Wilderness," said Mr. Cerrlsh. "I at the time lay wounded uuder a tree, close to Grant's headquarters In tho field, and hour after hour watched Orant. While serving aa a private In my regiment, I waa severely, though not dangerously, wounded, and like a great number of others, was taken to the rear. I was placed under a small tree, and, as It happened, within a few rods of the spot where the leader of tbat, mighty host of Union warriors waa conducting the battle. In fact I wr.a ao near to Grant that I could see every motion he made, and critically atudy bhn In the momentous, fearfully re sponsible role he was playing. "And such a study! "Why, It is not hyperbole to state lhat It was worth all the pain and dis ability I endured then and thereafter from the effects of my wounds. "There stood the 'silent man of des tiny' In front of his little tent, a man plain and unpretentious, holding In his hands not only the fate of Ills vast army, but the life of our nation aa 'one and Inseparable,' yet as cool and self possessed aa If be were merely review ing a brigade of militia on training day. All about him waa wild excite ment and seeming chaos. In front of him, and for miles In extent the un ceasing roar of artillery mingling and alternating with the rattle of musket ry, the bugle calls, the shouts of the contending troops; now nearer and more terrible, now seeming further away; anon the crashing of shell In dangerous nearness, caualng a tempor ary scare In the vicinity of Its fall, while, added to the appalling din waa the element of uncertainty and Intan gibility, causing that almost overpow ering mental strain which comes of dark anxiety and forebodings of dis aster. "Everybody waa agitated except Ma rfco had most cant for travail. . , -'I' "P cvei j few minutes, to e:n h of whom ! would give u brief written order for transmis sion to some ln-hoi'li' or division com mander, perhaps Involving the fate of thousand of brave men. Orderlies were dnshlnj: hither and yon. Gen. Meade, ou his alert charger, was so ner vous that he. could not long remain in the saddle, but would dlsmouut and pace the ground a while, remouut and Bit a short time, then off and walk as before, his handsome face wearing all the time a worn and troubled look; and yet, through these long and terrible hours Grant never once lost his head, but kept constantly In bis mind's eye all the details and Intricacies ol the stu pendous plan which devolved on blm alone to carry out the solution of that mighty problem, the key to which lay In hla right hand, which held the fatal pencil! "Yea, Grant knew precisely what he waa about and he knew, moreover, that a cool bead and well-balanced mind were ail essential to the great work la hand. "The lesson of that day's study of Grant was, that be was one of the moat wonderful men tbla century baa pro duced!" Boston Transcript Redeemed Theaaeelvea. The late General Rosecrans ran up agalnat a tartar once, but he had the good sense not to let bla ruffled dig nity cause him to lose bla temper. The story, aa told 'by Colonel James T. Sterling, Is as follows: Company A, of the Seventh Ohio, waa formerly the light guards of Cleveland, and waa one of the rery beat drilled companies In the army. It was commanded by Captain Cretghton. The Seventh Ohio was In West Vir ginia In 1861, and "Old Bosy" was In command. The supplies for the army were brought up the Kanawha river In boats which were unloaded by details from the regiment. General Rosecrans bad ordered that soldiers on duty must wear tuelr equipment. Company A waa sent out to unload a boat and Cap tain Crelgbton permitted the men to take off their equipment and their coats as well while engaged In this hard work. When the work had been completed, the men and officers sprawled out on the grass for a rest, and then General Rosecrans and some of his staff rode up. The general look ed at the soldiers a minute and then called for the commanding officer. Cap tain Crelghton did not know Gen. Rose crans, but he rose to his feet. "Who commands this company?" asked the general. "I do, to the lest of my ability," re plied the captain. "Don't you know, elr," Inquired the general, sternly, "that tt Is against or ders to allow the men to remove their equipments when on duty?" "I have heard some such order," said Captain Crelghton, "but the man that leaned It never did a day's work in his life. When my men have to work hard, I'll see him In the other place be fore I'll let them swelter with their accoutrements on." "Old Rosy" stared at the cool captain a moment and then rode down towards the boat. A soldier approached Captain Crelgh ton, and said: "Do you know who that Is?" "No, and I don't care." 'That's General Rosecrans, the com mander of this department." "Whew!" ejaculated Captain Crelgh ton. "Company, fall In!" Without question it was the finest company in the command. When the general and his officers rode back from the boat the company In full equipment stood In perfect order and gave him a present In such splendid style as to at tract his attention. Gen. Rosecrans re turned the salute, and requested the captain to put his men through the manual. When It wasllnlshed the gen eral raised his hat, turned to the cap tain, and said: "I think that a company that can handle muskets as well as that should be allowed to unload a steamer without anything on, If they want to." Tost of the Civil War. The New York Journal of Commerce lias published an article showing the enormous expense of the civil war. In the four years of the war the direct ex penditure of the national government amounted to about $3,180,000,000, of which $2,020,000,000 should be charged to the war. Of this amount $730,000, 000 was raised by taxation, while $2,450,000,000 was obtained by Issuing greenbacks and bonds. The Interest on the war debt during and since the war to July 1, 1807, amounts to $2, WM.OOO.OOO; penaions since the war $2, 127,000,000, making the total cost of the war to tho end of the laat fiscal year $7,711,000,000. Much of this expense Is continuing, and If we are to believe a recent statement of the Commissioner of Pensions, the pension part of the expenditure Is to be Increased. The country Is now paying In penaions and Interest money on account of the civil war about $3,500,000 every week. The Journal of Commerce estimates that by the time all the liabilities are settled, the money cost of the late war will have amounted to no less than $12,000, 000,000, a sum equal to the entire assessed valuation of all the property In the United Statea at the beginning of the conflict How Hampton Lost Hla Lea. "The statement that Gen. Hamptoa lost a leg In the war reminds us of a little story," says the Montgomery Ad vertlser. "In the daya before the war there waa a hotel on top of Stone Moun tain, In Georgia, aad the water for use of the gueata was raised by a force- nunip from below. A Northern trav eler who knew something of the use of hydraulic rams accosted the landlord with: This Is On water, landlord; la It raised by a ram f 'Ram, hell!' snort ed the landlord, If a durned big mule!' And that's the way Wade Hampton lest ale." AGRICULTURAL NEWS THINGS PERTAINING TO THE FARM AND HOME. Need of Agricultural Instruction la the Schools Value of the Garden Jllnts for Tobacco Growers-Soil Variation In Fields-Home Cheese. Agriculture in the Fchoole. There Is a general demand among speakers and writers on agricultural subjects, says the Farmers' Journal and Live Stock Review, for the adop tion of some system of Instruction In country schools that shall Include not only the elements, but the practice of farming and gardening. This la not only a sensible move, but It is already in practice In various parts of Europe, with such success that the term "mar velous" Is sometimes applied to It, and already aa elaborate system of Instruc tion wlfj traveling professors has sprung up In some countries, based on the actual results so far as well aa the possibilities of more careful and ex tended Instruction. While there Is much need of something of the kind In this T countr it will have to be confessed that the problem Is a much more diffi cult one. The Europea n country boy or girl Is reared with the Idea of remain ing In the vocation of the family and will readily take to the study of tilling the soil, but the American youth. In country aa well as city. Is not attached to auy particular calling or Idea. Then the scliool systems of America are so different. In one of Alphonee Daudet a short stories the hero is a country school teacher In France who has been at the bead of the same school for forty years. Of course he Hved on the school premises and had his garden, wnion the children helped him cultivate. How easy It would be to teach agriculture In such a school. America aa yet lacks the stability necessary to success In farmlna schools; lacks also the neces sity of producing food at low cost. The conditions are not so unfavorable as they used to be, when the poor farmer, owing to the demand for his crops, could still make money, and It la time to be studying the problem, though hair the school districts do not own land enough to carry on any sort of experi ment In farming. The Garden. Many fall to make the most out of the garden by falling to keep uie zround occupied all tbrougn me grow- ing season, says nueKuau ... Farmer's Voice. Many take consider able pains to have a good early garden, hut as fast as these mature and are URed the weeds are allowed to take possession. With all of the early crops especially It Is easily possible to grow two good crops In one season, and with i little planning this may be done with i number of later ones. And it Is cer tainly a less drain on the available fer tility to grow a crop of some kind of vegetables than to grow a crop or weeds. One Is profitable, the other is not. On every rarm mere snouia ue a supply of vegetables all through the Slowing season, and plenty to store for winter. Teas are about the only gar den vegetable that does not thrive well u summer, and beans will take their place. But with nearly or quite ail tne jthers it Is possible to have a supply all through the season, commencing with lettuce, onions, asparagus, spin ach and radishes In the spring and fin ishing up with sweet corn, tomatoes, ;elery and cornfield beans In the fall, with cabbage, potatoes, turnips, celery, beets, parsnips, carrots and onions at least to store away and use during the winter. The garden Is nearly always the richest part of the yard, and It should be made to yield all it will. And this will not only lessen the cost of living, but add greatly to the enjoy ment of It Better to have a little sur plus to spare to those who have to buy than to be obliged to buy or go without yourself. There are few fruits or veg etables that the average farmer can buy as cheaply as he can grow, while with the majority depending on buying Is qulvaleut to going without. Tointer to Tobacco Growers. Commenting on the manipulation of the tobacco market by speculators, a corrctqtoniduiit iu an exeliauge says: There Is a movement on foot by which that gigantic monopoly, the tobacco trust, will control the entire tobacco market of the United States, and In consequence the producer, or ln other words, the tolwcco raiser, will be at the mercy of the tmsit, and the prices will be put dowu to such low figures that It will be Impossible for the raisers to make any profit out of the raising of tobacco. W hat we propose for the farmers Is to orga.nlze themselves, raise a fund sufficiently large to establish a market of their own, Imlld large man ufactories and dry house, and put stock out at $25 a share, to be held only by boiia-llde tobacco ralsera; elect men of their own class, or unquestioned bus iness ability, pay them respectable sal aries, and fight the trusts with their own weapons. By this move the organ isation could prevent. In a measure, an overproduction of the crop and receive therefor an adequate and uniform price for the weed, and, as the majority of people ore antagonistic to trusts, there will be no difficulty In disposing of the product of such an enterprising and solf-pro'tcetlng move. As the cost of manufacture of toltaceo Is about one tenth that of Its raining, we could sure ly manufacture our own productions at handsome profits. Under tills plan we would receive from $20 to $30 per 100 M)umlM for our tobueco, where now It Is $3.00 to $13." ftoll Variation In Fields. It Is a misfortune to a farmer to have different kinds of soil In the same field, though It may be an advantage to have ftrlaUoo In different field on the same farm, so as to gr-v u greater variety of crops. Difference In fertility sal may be easily remedied with manor. But with clay spots, sandy knolls and gravel beds all In the same field, muV formlty of fertility cannot be expected. Cheeee for Uoase f'ee. It Is surprising that farmers do use more cheese. It la a health nutritious article of food, and can am made far more cheaply than nitrogen ous nutrition can be supplied In any oth er form. Another reason why farmers) should use more cheese Is that It wlQ prevent the glut In prices of milk which every year causes so many farmers ts) sell milk at a loss. Such farmers d we think, get In the bablt of making more or less cheese, and their tables are well supplied. It Is the farmer with only one or two cows who UM least cheese. We used to make cbeesa on a farm when we had only two cowa, putting night and morning's milk to gether In a single cheese. merkaS Cultivator. The March of the Keepers. As we list with the esr ef the spirit There's a sound on every hand 'Tie the ststeiy march of the reapeaa Thro' this glorious Western land. Where but yesterday waa desert. Or sand dunes vast and lone, Or prairies, flower-studded, That the Indian called bin Where lonely aileooe brooded And no other Bound was bean Save the thunder of the buffalo Or the Bong of prairie bird. To-day o'er countless acres Waves now the harvest fair, ., And the marching of the reapers Is sounding thro the air. Where the gnif waves wash fair Texas May s sunshine brings the gold Of the ripening wheat for harvest Not the sickles, as of old But with hum of vaat steel reapers And the march of myriad feet. As northward moves the harvest Of the ever-ripening wheat Next Oklahoma's valleys J- , Take up the ceaseless tune, ' Then Kansas' rolling prairies Itipen with the skies of June. ' Then northward, ever northward, -. Sounds the reapers' bnay hum, Till to far-off Manitoba The harvest home haa come. , And this is what it meanetb, This vict'ry of the wheat, It ie breud for earth's vast millions That they one and all may eat Aud still its march is onward The barren UlikIs to save, Till from Southern coast to shore Norma Its field in triumph wave; Aad greater still Its victories, Till in the years to be, In lands now counted desert Its waving fields we'll see, Till in place of famine's wailing cry Shall be heard the reaper's tread, And far and near Ln every land The people shall have bread. Kansas City Star. The Use of Aehea. Fresh wood ashes are often of little benefit. I think probably the caustic potash Injures the roots of the tender plants In some cases, as I have tested by experience, ln putting overdoses In the hill of corn with the seed or by put ting around tender plants, as I have seen quite a number badly injured. But the aehes soon lose their caustic proper ties. In the soil vegetable decomposi tion Is constantly throwing off carbonic acid, and this, with the dampness of the soil, soon neutralizes the alkali of the potash. Old ashes, which have long been exposed to the air, absorb consid erable amounts of ammonia, and to this leached aahes owe much of their value. What potash they do contain after leaching Is in the form of a nitrate and ready for immediate use. In early spring, before vegetation has made mucin start, they are one of the best manures which can be applied to the soil and all growing crops. On a thin plot of laud I applied for two yeara in succession a double handful of leached ashes to each hill of corn when about six inches hih, with very decided ben efit. Agricultural Epltomlst. Potash to Make Grapes Better. It has always been known that that vine Is a great lover of potash. It Ifl necessary not only In perfecting the seeds, but It also heightens the color and Improves the flavor of the fruit. No kind of fruit, not even excepting the cherry, requires so much potash as does the grape vine with its numerous seeds! ln the fruit and potash In leaf, branch and stem. Lack of available potash la in mosrt cases the reason why grape vine and leaves mildew and the fruit rots. It Is true these are fungus dis eases, and the scientists have found, that they proceed from spores, so that once the disease Is started it con propa gate Itself, even after plenty of potash Is applied. Dress the vines, therefore, heavily with wood ashes or other form of potash, and then spray the vines with Bordeaux mixture or other fungi cide to kill the spores and keep foliage healthy. In Europe vintners manure the vine only with potash, using the asl from the burned prunlngs for this pu -pose. This is probably not enough, as the fruit Is always taken off the land, and thus the supply of potash ln the soli must constantly decrease. Rowing Grain for Fowls. The henyard ought to be large enough to allow a team with plow to go Into It and turn the surface frequently. All that Is needed Is to expose a new sur face of soil, burying he droppings of the fowls, and also turning up worms, grubs and small insects. If some oats or other grain Is sown on this plowed surface, and slightly covered with soil, the hens will scratch diligently until they get nearly all of It clearing them selves of vermin by the dust which they purposely throw among their feathers. It is a dust bath, and la as good tor fowls as a water bath la for men aad women. If some grains escape and come up the bens will eat the toads blade, and then dig down uattt tbsY aad tbo awoltoa gnla i ghirt waist Unas tt mil U. Mt Pitt are oraamaatsd wkb