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I
GOWNS AND GOWNING
WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION
TO WHAT THEY WEAR.
Brief Glancea at Fancies Feminine,
Frivolous, Mayhap, and Yet Offered
in the Hope that the Beading PrC
Restfbl to Wearied Womankind.
Goeaip from Qajr Gotham
N Tor l .-orresnoaaeaee:
ETTING toward
the styles of au
tumn are the cur
rent fashions In
dress, though as
yet there are uo In
dications of radical
departures. If there
were a plenty of
outright and radi
cal changes, the
present array of
fashionably dress
ed women would
not be ag handsome
as It la, because ad
vanced notions al
ways Jar the ob
server's feelings, though those same
notions may come In time to be gener
ally adopted. One striking feature of
the fall fashions Is to be, If only wom
en will take the designers' dangling
bait, a rush Into big pLaids In woolens.
Just now these fishers for favor are
not claiming that the plaids' colors will
be brilliant, but they Insist that the
squares must be big. If women accept
so much there Is little reason to doubt
that before one knows It the hues will
become garish. Then, for a while,
we'll wish we could wear smoked
glasses, and if we dislike the display of
horse blanket stuffs enough to ignore
their promoters' claims, they'll not be
come stylish; If they gradually win
favor, then we'll soon come to view
FUOM THIE END
tbein with the miked eye and vote
them tasteful.
Besides the evidence of hesitancy on
. the part of the weavers that declares
at first for subdued shades, there is an
other slzn of their uncertainty; though
It may be fairer to characterize It as
shrewd scheming. That is that the
first gowns offered in these stuffs are
for Indoor wear. Later will come th..
outdoor rigs and the forty-horse power
colors. One of the lures set by these
manufacturers is shown In to-day's
smallest picture. Tlx: stuff had a soft
browu ground crossed by fine lines of
green and red, the skirt was a modified
godet and the bodice, alike In back and
front, was arranged in deep tucks be
low the yoke, which was green silk
covered with cream passementerie. The
stock collar matched the yoke and was
trimmed In back with green silk wired
points, the whole edged with a narrow
puffing of white chiffon. The rather
full sleeve puffs were tacked down as
shown, white chiffon ruffles finished
the wrists, and green velvet furnished
Q the belt. Thus aiade the goods was
certainly attractive, so it may be said
to bare scored its first point.
Women who would leave to others,
more daring than themselves the test
ing of new fancies, and who do not In
sist that the end of every season shall
provide them with a new set of dress
rules, will have a chance to choose
from many materials and methods of
making that hold over to autumn.
Cashmere promises to be stylish and
very pretty new dresses are made from
It. Gown number 5 In to-day's large
picture was of white cashmere, em
tVoMerj Id porcelain blue silks orna
menting Its skirt as Indicated. In the
bodice the goods was tucked, yoke,
s rest and revere being white silk em
broidered with roses and forgct-roe-
Tbe belt nnd the two tiny ro
in front were mauve velvet.
Etch closer to the summer styles was
the brows dress Immediately above
this In the picture, and like the other
It was a very dressy model. It was
white mull, lined with ml silk and
made with a wide fluffy skirt gath
ered at the waist. The bodice had a
plain rest finished with cascade frills
of the mull and a novel yoke divided by
the vest, but square hi back and
trimmed with bands of scarlet satin
ribbon. Below the yoke the mull was
tacked, and the slashed basque was
atae trimmed with ribbon.
Per the remain Ing boose dress of this
number 2, lettuce green taffeta
1 as ctbt Using, aad over this
I was white embroider! chiffon. The
b"dle had a fitted lining and a square
lashed yoke of the taffKa edgd with
green embroidery. To this yoke the
embroidered chiffon was gathered and
fell loose to the waist The sleeves
were also of taffetas with a ruffle of
embroidered chiffon around the arm
holes.
New weaves of taffeta are appearing,
and this silk promises to soon have
other uses than as linings and trim
ming. One new sort that Is woven close
with metallic thieads Is really regal
and Is one of the few dressy materials
that lend themselves to the needs of
elderly women. Draped with lace or
net, the metallic gleam flashing
through, the result Is at once artistic,
dressy and dignified. It Is not at all
the sort of thing that buds should wear,
but neither Is duchesse lace. Only the
delicate web laces are suitable to young
folk, Valenciennes above all. Older folk
may wear any lace that is beautiful,
but all the heavier types belong espe
cially to the dignity and beauty of
years. But for the young folk there
are beautiful new taffetas, rich of
weave and well recommended as to
durability. One of these, In pale rose
pink, made a beautiful gown of num
ber 1 in this group. In the skirt the
silk was tucked lengthwise several
times In the center of the front, and
also in groups around the bottom that
separated frills of narrow black Ghan
tilly lace. The blouse waist was
trimmed with a band composed of black
lace bordered with tucks and narrow
lace frilling, and on either side of this
the material was tucked crosswise
with bands of black lace Insertion be
tween. The belt of black satin had
long sash ends.
Such gowns as the one numbered
four here are the sort that assert the
complete stylishness of cashmere, for
if such pretty dresses as this are made
of it who can say it nay? Narrow bias
folds of white siik trimmed it in the
skirt, flitwl the bodice's white silk lining
i 5
OF SUMMER AND FORESHADOWING THE FALL.
supplied a slightly bioused vest that
was partly hidden by a huge drapery
tie of white chiffon. Over this came a
bolero of the cashmere trimmed to
match the skirt and finished with plain
sleeves. The remaining gown of this
cluster of novelties was an exceedingly
unusual combination of silks.- Two
flounces of striped silk, the strip's
matching perfectly at the edges, gave
the skirt, and the blouse waist was
white silk covered with gathered white
chiffon and finished with a bolero of
black Chantilly edged with black vel
vet and held together with two black
velvet straps. A lace yoke trimmed
the skirt at the hips and the folded belt
was of black chiffon with long ends In
back.
From these pictures it Is apparent
that we are not tiring of blouse lodlce.
So cleverly are these now made that
they suit every sort of figure. There
are bodices bioused iu front, bodices
tight In front and bioused in the back,
bodices bioused both front and back
and tight at the sides, and bodices
bioused all around. These last are
made most cleverly In Imported gowns,
the blouse portion standing smartly out
from n well-defined waist round. When
the blouse Is only In front or is front
awl back.' then, as a rule, the loose por
tion droope below the belt. But no
fixed rule can be given, except that If
the Moose makes yon look baggy It Is
the style la on becoming to
WBAPPKD FOR LOOKS, NOT FOR WARMTH.
you, but Nvsuw it hat not been adapt
ed artUtlcally to your need.
Half sleeves Ik-Iow loose puffs are be-
ing worn again, in our grand mother
style. The half sleeves are delicate
muslin, which Is, If you are lucky,
heavy with hand needle-work. Dainty
round collars of needlework, such at
we see in the pictures of our great
aunts, are worn with these sleeve,
only they are now set on a high collar.
Is It that we have not the throats out
great aunts had? Have long yeara of
gripping high collars really spoiled th
line of the throat when It is cut off
sharp by a mere neck band? However
that Is, even the girl who looks stun
nlng In low dresses can hardly wear a
round collar without the relief of neck
swathing above. Thj collar above
should be made of a bit of muslin yel
lowed as the collar la, with a bit of
needlework from some old piece
apllqued on. Every tiny scrap of hand
needlework Is precious these days even
if the muslin on which it is wrought la
falling to pieces with age. Cut out the
beautiful embroidery close to the edge
and buttonhole it to a new piece of net
or muslin. It Is well worth the pain.
The dressy wrap Just now is of laxx
or net, cut work and embroidery. We
are beginning to admit a prejudice
against appearing out of the bonsc
without some effect of a wrap to drape
the outlines of the figure, even though
that wrap does not add a bit to the
warmth of the costume. For this nom
inal protection the gauzy wrap la, of
course, perfect A pretty type of it la
shown here by the artist. It was made
of black moussellne de sole and white
embroidered tnouasellne, consisting of
two short capes; the lower black, the
upper white. Commencing at the col
lar In front two long tubs of pale gray
silk reached below the waist and were
garnished with Jet beads and lace
applique. The collar employed both ma
terials, and the embroidered mousse
line formed a cascade Jabot In front.
Some of these dainty garments are no
niore than elaborated fichus, made with
point reaching well to the belt at the
back, and attached by a dainty belt te
the fluffy knot at the waist In front
Consistency and clearness of detail are
given by bands of velvet or satin, and
black Is the favorite color, though for
country use lovely confections of this
sort are gotten up In black dotted
white. Liberty silks are also much
used In their more gauzy qualities. Now
that autumn Is not far away, it would
seem to be time to consider wraps that
are essentially protective, but fashion
able women haven't a thought of that
as yet
Copyright 1897.
NOVEL FORM OF HOSPITALITY.
Plan by Which an Irishman Added
to the Pom of H nman Enjoyment.
A man with an unusual Idea of hos
pitality was Mt. Mat hew of Thomas-
ton, Ireland, who lived In the earlier
years of the last century. Mr. Matbew
Inherited an annual income of about
?12.",000. For many years he lived
abroad In a very frugal manner In or
der to accumulate an amount that
would enable him to Indulge in a form
of hospitality in hi own country In
harmony with the plan he had devised.
Ills house in Ireland might le com
pared In size with a modern hotel.
Each of those be wanted to vlrilt him
had a suite of apartments and ordered
his meaLs at the hour that best suited
him. He could wit alone or he could
invite others to Join him. All the vis
itors hunted, shot, fished, played bil
liards or cards at will and all brought
their own horses. There was a regular
bar where drinks were served with
out stint Mr. Matbew as host com
pletely effaced himself. He mingled
with his visitors as one whose stay was
as definitely fixed as theirs. In fact, he
conducted hU house as if H were a
hotel, with the exertion that- nJI was
without charge. No servant was al
lowed to accejut a ttp. Violation of this
rule was followed by the liwtant dis
missal of the offends. Thte establish
ment, unlike otJier country bouses of
Ireland of the period, was conducted
with perfect order and wWJiout waste
His hospitality was lavish, and attract
ed to Mr. M.n!iew all of the more fa
mous mem of the thne. The great sum
that he had put askle during his reatf
donce abroad enabled him to Indulge
his hospitable Instincts until be died.
Han Francisco Argonaut
Russia will establish a Dermaneat
diplomatic legation In Abyssinia. '
'''''
i v am j rwm
A Fnmmer Mllkhonae.
In the summer time a mllkhouse
built like the one In the Illustration Is
very convenient. It is adapted to sit
uations where there Is no natural
spring, but where the water must le
pumped around the milk. A man who
has tried a small bouse of this kind
says of the one he built: It is 0 feet
square and 0 feet high at the eaves,
which is large enough for the milk of
two or three cows. The house Is built
under a large grape arlor, alout 20
feet from my kitchen pump. The milk
tank, which Is 12 Inches deep and 14
Inches wide at the top, extends along
the north side. It has a screen cover.
which may be covered with cloth in
very hot or dusty weather. A table
with a shelf underneath occupies the
southeast corner. A smce Just above
the level of the tank, 2 feet wide and
extending on all sides of the house, Is
covered with wire screen. Shelves
alwve the screen and below the tank
give sufficient room for milk and butter
dishes. The milk Is set in pulls. A gal
vanized iron piie leads from a small
tank at the side of the pump down 18
Inches below the surface of the ground,
across the 20 foot space and up again
to the level of the milk tank. An over
flow pipe at the other end of the tank
carries off the water after It has reach
ed the proper height In the tank. An
other pipe, at the Inn torn of the tank,
is used for emptying it when desired.
Handling a Ifulkr Kod'ler Crop.
In cutting ensilage or fodder, a lit
tle work transferred from hand to
horse power often goes a great way
to lessen exense. In the Illustration,
which Is taken from Farm and Home,
a simple method Is shown of unloading
fodder or hay. Two ropes alut 'At
feet long, depending on the length of
the rack and height of load to be
drawn, are used, one end of each lx-ing
fastened to the hind axle of the wagon.
They are then jmssed liaek and over
the top of the rack between the two
outer boards on either side. While
loading, the ropes may be brought
back under the outside of the rack and
fastened almost any place on the rear
part. When the load Is completed, the
ropes are drawn over the fodder and
tied to the back of the rack, acting in
CKLOADIXO FODDER MADK EAST.
the capacity of a bl tiding pole. To un
load, fasten the ropes to a beam, and
with the team draw the wagon slowly
out from under the load. The first few
times may not always prove success
ful, but with a little practice the wagon
may be unloaded in a few minutes.
Mralg-bten the Stroma.
It does not matter much how erook
d the little stream may be that mean
Sers through pasture lands. Hut if the
field is to be cut for hay, or especially
If It is desired to use the land for plow
ing, It is important to have the brook
tralghtened, so as to take as little
room as possible. In many places a
itralght, deep ditch, cut to lead off a
ttreara that only runs In the spring,
nay be profitably turned Into an under
lain. A space a foot square each way,
with an even fall, will carry off an im
mense amount of water. If large, flat
itones can be got for covering and
heavy stone for siding such a drain Is
ot expensive. The convenience of
plowing over It and the land saved will
make It pay.
Pranlns la Important.
The tn-giect of pruning for a single
rear is never less than a serious Injury
:o any fruit tree. Without proper vlgl
'auce dozens of shoots will spring out
ind grow, to the Injury of the tree, not
nly for that season, but for a consld
irable time after. "Thumbnail" prun
ng Is always the best, because It leaves
30 wound that will not cover itself the
tame season. Every observer can see
hat this Is true; but many orchards
bow a neglect to apply the truth.
Profit in Bran Ker1ln -.
Every time a farmer buys bran for
.'eedlng bis stock he also buys fertlllz
irs. Bras and cotton-seed meal are
rich In all the elements required In the
teU, aad the cost Is repaid by the in
BIMMKR MILKHOrSE.
crease In weight of the animals. If the
farmer can make the gain from the
animals pay for the feed there will be
a fair profit left In the immure heap,
Hut this profit Is valuable according
to the manner In which the fertilizing
elements are preserved while In the
heap. It Is In the management of the
manure tlr.it the profit Is retained and
future traps increased.
How IMnnt Get Water.
The fact that In wet weather the soil
dries slowly even when covered with
plants thiit ordluarlly drain the soil
rapidly, leads some to think that when
wet the leaves ubsorb moisture on
them. Hur the fact can lie equally well
accounted for by the knowledge that
water on the leaves prevents them
from evaporating the moisture brought
from the soil by roots. This soil con
tains some mineral elements which
unite with carbonic acid gas from the
air In forming plant tissue. While the
leaves are wet they cannot absorb car
bonic acid gas. This with the effect
of stopping evaimratlon, makes the
sapy growth which many, Jumping too
quickly at conclusions, think must be
caused by the direct absorption of wa
ter through the leaves.
Injury from Over Pruning.
Most of our American varieties of
grapes are very strong growers, and
will not lMar the severe pruulng to
which German anil French vlneyard
ists subject their vines. We plant our
vines further apart than do European
vintners, and must leave proportion
all.v more wood. As the vines grow
older It Is generally found necessary
to take out alternate vines so ns to let
each vine occupy twice the trellis space
originally allotted to It. Vines thus
treated are much less liable to mildew.
At the same time some root pruning
Is advisable by cultivating more deep
ly, and keeping the roots of the vines
where they will lie less affected by
sudden changes of temperature that
usually precede attacks of mildew and
grape rot.
For Portlne Hoaa.
A sorting pen Is most convenient
when a herd of hogs Is to lie divided.
Mine, says a correspondent of Hie Or
ange Judd Fanner, Is built alongside
a partition fence; a and b represent the
two com part means. Tlie hogs are
drivenfrom the pasture through the
gates at h and d Into b. To sort them,
one man stands at d and operates the
gates d c nnd f e. Another man gets
Into the pens and drives the hogs out,
one at a time. The man at the gate
turns them into the punt lire, g, or Into
the pen, a, as d-lred. If the hogs are
coming In a string thru' feet apnrt,
they can lie put where wanted by sim
ply swinging the gates. Kecerttly we
sijirted In with a bunch of about 100
and sorted out W in 15 minutes with
out a mistake.
Fancy Farmer.
"Fancy farmers," or the owners of
"fancy" stock, are frequently ridiculed,
but it Is due to their willingness to im
prove stock and their ierslstency In ad
hering to their belief In something bet
ter than scrubs that the farmer Is bene
fited. The man of capital goes on with
his Improvement of stock, and may suf
fer loss at first, but after a while he
Iteglns to make profits, the fanners !e
Ing lifted up with him, as the farm on
which Improved breeds are specialties
becomes a fountain source from which
superior animals are distributed In all
directions.
Farm Notra.
In all breeding defective points are
more easy of reproduction than desir
able products.
On great help lu killing out weeds
Is not to allow nny to mature seeds.
Look after this now.
The triple income from a flock of
sheep, wool, lambs and mutton come
in at different seasons.
System in feeding and breeding to
and for correct standard is essential
In the management of all stock.
Allowing weeds to grow is robbing
the soil of needed plant food and moist
ure. Keep the weeds down.
A hog Is not necessarily a filthy ani
mal, and If he is to make meat for food
it Is essential that he should lie cleanly
raised.
Keep the young pigs growing during
the summer while on good pasturage,
and It will lm much easier to fatten
them In the fall.
When wheat is to follow corn it will
lessen the work of seeding very ma
terially If the cultivation of the corn
has Is-en clean and thorough.
Cut wheat when the grain begins to
harden well, and shock up as fast as
cut Wheat requires but little curing
and should be stacked soon after cut
ting. The sprouts which grow up around
the base of a tree from the roots should
le cut out as fast as they appear, as
they appropriate plant food that should
nourish the tree. They are also un
sightly and destroy the appearance of
an orchard.
Orowers who raise cucumbers for
market say the first crop from a par
ticular field is better than any subse
quent one. The soil Itecomes filled
with enemies of tbe crop and a change
Is necessary. Some growers find It ad
visable to take new soil every year.
8 r
-a
f id
J b J
I'KJt FOB SOHTIXO UOOS.
Fait and lt Properties.
Used In washing the hair It will pre
eut the hair from falling out.
A teasjMKinful of salt in a lamp will
lake kerosene oil give a brighter light
Added to a bucket of water It fonns a
emarkably effective fire extinguisher.
A handful of rock salt added to the
ath Is the next best thing to an ocean
ip.
Damp salt will remove the dlscolora-
lon of tea and the like in dishes that
ave leen carelessly washed.
New calicoes soaked in a strong solu-
lon of salt for an hour before wash-
ag will retain their colors better.
As a dentrliJce salt and water will
ot only cleans' but whiten the teeth.
nd will harden the gums.
When broiling steak a pinch or two of
alt thrown on the fire will quench tha
'ames arising from the dripping fat.
A weak solution is good for sore
hroat, to be used as a gargle, and this
i still better If a few grains of red
epper are added.
Ink stains may be removed by the
'se of moistened salt. When It becorws
Iscolored remove It and use a fresh
upply until no color remains.
A weak solution of salt In water Is a
ood remedy for slight indigestion, es
ecially that characterised by a sense
f weight and oppression.
Dissolved In water and snuffed up
he nostril It Is of use In curing catarrh,
lit when chronic Its use must be per
istal In night and morning for several
tionths.
A little salt in raw or Iwilcd starch
rill prevent the irons from sticking,
tnd make the starch whiter. If the
rons are rough lay some salt on a piece
if brown paper, lay a piece of muslin
iver It and rub the Irons on It until
hey are bright and smooth.
Why Ice Wnter I Injnrlona.
The reason why so many physicians
bject to the drinking of water during
aieal time Is that Americans, as a rule,
Irlnk Ice water. The temperature of
the stomach Is from OS degrees to 100
legrees Fahrenheit. After a meal It
diould le from 00 degrees to 102 d-
rroes, and if a in rson is exercising It
tomet lines will run up to lf.i degrees.
Sow this temperature is necessary to
rarryon digestion In a perfectly health
ful way. Constant drinking of Ice water
luring the meal or an Ice at the close
jt the meal will reduce the tempera
ture of the stomach sometimes to 05
icgrces, which would stop digestion,
and sooner or later render one a con
Q lined dyspeptic. Water of an ordinary
temperature Is not so objectionable
In fact. It would be ts-tter to take a
swallow of water now and then dur
ing the meal provided the water is cool,
not Iced. FcmsIs that are slightly dilute
ed are more easily digested than those
which are concentrated and dry. La
dies' Home Journal.
To M nke foar.
A good way to make soap Is with
soda and lime. Dissolve six pounds of
common washing sislu and three ixmnds
of uuslacked lime in four gallons of
boiling water. Let the mixture stand
until the water above It Is perfectly
clear. Drain off this water. Now pour
In two gallons of cold water and let It
settle dear. Drain this second water
off In a pan. Put six isjunds of clean
grease with the lime and soda, and let
the mixture boll slowly for two hours
till It Is'ulns to burden.
Thin It as It lstils with the two gal
lons of water which was drained Into
the pan. Add this water as It is need
ed; It will not require all, only enough
to prevent the soup from boiling over.
When a little of the cooled soap hard
ens, add a handful of salt and mix well,
and pour Into a mold that has lieeu well
wet with water to prevent the soap
sticking to the mold. When it Is solid
cut it Into bars. Let the bars dry for
three months.
The "Chocolate Habit."
Phys11ans feel called upon to warn
us of rhe dangers of the "cluwolute
habit." They say the women and glrU
of the jK'riod are quite too fond ft
chocolate in the form of bonbons, lc
Ings, Ice creams and soda too fond
for the welfare of their complexions.
8o much chocolate makes the skin ye I.
low and brings on derangements of
the stomach. Too much chocolate and
cocoa, as beverages, are also unwhole
some, lxith Uflng constipating in tuoli
effect.
To Clean Stove Steel.
Hurnlshed steel on stoves and grniei
Is sometimes mistaken for nickel. St it?)
is used wiiere exposed to great heal
Is-enuse the nickel s-ali off at a high
temjMTRture. A manufacturer oJ
stoves says the bet way to dean thli
steel when tarnished Is to rub It oil
with tsiphtha. Of course there mual
be no fire In the stove, or in the room,
when this Is done. Wet a soft clot!
with naphtha awl rub the steel brlsklj
tlH well polished, then rub with a drj
cloth.
Pleaalag Table I'ecoratlona.
Ferns ore much liked as cental
pieces.
Exquisite vases of glass, four fee)
high, are now used for long-stcmmes
roses.
I4irge, odd shaped shells are exqul
site whi n filled with vines, mosses and
fine flowers.
Noticing can le more effective lu tb
way of vas for roses than the neai
glass Jars which are used for electrU
Iwtteries.
Quaint shaped jugs or Jars of Japan
ese ware In dull, subdued hues can Is
utilized for admlraMe receptacles tot
brilliant colored flowers.
J
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