The Sioux County journal. (Harrison, Nebraska) 1888-1899, August 19, 1897, Image 4
ll v - It- I GOWNS AND GOWNING WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION TO WHAT THEY WEAR. Brief Glancea at Fancies Feminine, Frivolous, Mayhap, and Yet Offered in the Hope that the Beading PrC Restfbl to Wearied Womankind. Goeaip from Qajr Gotham N Tor l .-orresnoaaeaee: ETTING toward the styles of au tumn are the cur rent fashions In dress, though as yet there are uo In dications of radical departures. If there were a plenty of outright and radi cal changes, the present array of fashionably dress ed women would not be ag handsome as It la, because ad vanced notions al ways Jar the ob server's feelings, though those same notions may come In time to be gener ally adopted. One striking feature of the fall fashions Is to be, If only wom en will take the designers' dangling bait, a rush Into big pLaids In woolens. Just now these fishers for favor are not claiming that the plaids' colors will be brilliant, but they Insist that the squares must be big. If women accept so much there Is little reason to doubt that before one knows It the hues will become garish. Then, for a while, we'll wish we could wear smoked glasses, and if we dislike the display of horse blanket stuffs enough to ignore their promoters' claims, they'll not be come stylish; If they gradually win favor, then we'll soon come to view FUOM THIE END tbein with the miked eye and vote them tasteful. Besides the evidence of hesitancy on . the part of the weavers that declares at first for subdued shades, there is an other slzn of their uncertainty; though It may be fairer to characterize It as shrewd scheming. That is that the first gowns offered in these stuffs are for Indoor wear. Later will come th.. outdoor rigs and the forty-horse power colors. One of the lures set by these manufacturers is shown In to-day's smallest picture. Tlx: stuff had a soft browu ground crossed by fine lines of green and red, the skirt was a modified godet and the bodice, alike In back and front, was arranged in deep tucks be low the yoke, which was green silk covered with cream passementerie. The stock collar matched the yoke and was trimmed In back with green silk wired points, the whole edged with a narrow puffing of white chiffon. The rather full sleeve puffs were tacked down as shown, white chiffon ruffles finished the wrists, and green velvet furnished Q the belt. Thus aiade the goods was certainly attractive, so it may be said to bare scored its first point. Women who would leave to others, more daring than themselves the test ing of new fancies, and who do not In sist that the end of every season shall provide them with a new set of dress rules, will have a chance to choose from many materials and methods of making that hold over to autumn. Cashmere promises to be stylish and very pretty new dresses are made from It. Gown number 5 In to-day's large picture was of white cashmere, em tVoMerj Id porcelain blue silks orna menting Its skirt as Indicated. In the bodice the goods was tucked, yoke, s rest and revere being white silk em broidered with roses and forgct-roe- Tbe belt nnd the two tiny ro in front were mauve velvet. Etch closer to the summer styles was the brows dress Immediately above this In the picture, and like the other It was a very dressy model. It was white mull, lined with ml silk and made with a wide fluffy skirt gath ered at the waist. The bodice had a plain rest finished with cascade frills of the mull and a novel yoke divided by the vest, but square hi back and trimmed with bands of scarlet satin ribbon. Below the yoke the mull was tacked, and the slashed basque was atae trimmed with ribbon. Per the remain Ing boose dress of this number 2, lettuce green taffeta 1 as ctbt Using, aad over this I was white embroider! chiffon. The b"dle had a fitted lining and a square lashed yoke of the taffKa edgd with green embroidery. To this yoke the embroidered chiffon was gathered and fell loose to the waist The sleeves were also of taffetas with a ruffle of embroidered chiffon around the arm holes. New weaves of taffeta are appearing, and this silk promises to soon have other uses than as linings and trim ming. One new sort that Is woven close with metallic thieads Is really regal and Is one of the few dressy materials that lend themselves to the needs of elderly women. Draped with lace or net, the metallic gleam flashing through, the result Is at once artistic, dressy and dignified. It Is not at all the sort of thing that buds should wear, but neither Is duchesse lace. Only the delicate web laces are suitable to young folk, Valenciennes above all. Older folk may wear any lace that is beautiful, but all the heavier types belong espe cially to the dignity and beauty of years. But for the young folk there are beautiful new taffetas, rich of weave and well recommended as to durability. One of these, In pale rose pink, made a beautiful gown of num ber 1 in this group. In the skirt the silk was tucked lengthwise several times In the center of the front, and also in groups around the bottom that separated frills of narrow black Ghan tilly lace. The blouse waist was trimmed with a band composed of black lace bordered with tucks and narrow lace frilling, and on either side of this the material was tucked crosswise with bands of black lace Insertion be tween. The belt of black satin had long sash ends. Such gowns as the one numbered four here are the sort that assert the complete stylishness of cashmere, for if such pretty dresses as this are made of it who can say it nay? Narrow bias folds of white siik trimmed it in the skirt, flitwl the bodice's white silk lining i 5 OF SUMMER AND FORESHADOWING THE FALL. supplied a slightly bioused vest that was partly hidden by a huge drapery tie of white chiffon. Over this came a bolero of the cashmere trimmed to match the skirt and finished with plain sleeves. The remaining gown of this cluster of novelties was an exceedingly unusual combination of silks.- Two flounces of striped silk, the strip's matching perfectly at the edges, gave the skirt, and the blouse waist was white silk covered with gathered white chiffon and finished with a bolero of black Chantilly edged with black vel vet and held together with two black velvet straps. A lace yoke trimmed the skirt at the hips and the folded belt was of black chiffon with long ends In back. From these pictures it Is apparent that we are not tiring of blouse lodlce. So cleverly are these now made that they suit every sort of figure. There are bodices bioused iu front, bodices tight In front and bioused in the back, bodices bioused both front and back and tight at the sides, and bodices bioused all around. These last are made most cleverly In Imported gowns, the blouse portion standing smartly out from n well-defined waist round. When the blouse Is only In front or is front awl back.' then, as a rule, the loose por tion droope below the belt. But no fixed rule can be given, except that If the Moose makes yon look baggy It Is the style la on becoming to WBAPPKD FOR LOOKS, NOT FOR WARMTH. you, but Nvsuw it hat not been adapt ed artUtlcally to your need. Half sleeves Ik-Iow loose puffs are be- ing worn again, in our grand mother style. The half sleeves are delicate muslin, which Is, If you are lucky, heavy with hand needle-work. Dainty round collars of needlework, such at we see in the pictures of our great aunts, are worn with these sleeve, only they are now set on a high collar. Is It that we have not the throats out great aunts had? Have long yeara of gripping high collars really spoiled th line of the throat when It is cut off sharp by a mere neck band? However that Is, even the girl who looks stun nlng In low dresses can hardly wear a round collar without the relief of neck swathing above. Thj collar above should be made of a bit of muslin yel lowed as the collar la, with a bit of needlework from some old piece apllqued on. Every tiny scrap of hand needlework Is precious these days even if the muslin on which it is wrought la falling to pieces with age. Cut out the beautiful embroidery close to the edge and buttonhole it to a new piece of net or muslin. It Is well worth the pain. The dressy wrap Just now is of laxx or net, cut work and embroidery. We are beginning to admit a prejudice against appearing out of the bonsc without some effect of a wrap to drape the outlines of the figure, even though that wrap does not add a bit to the warmth of the costume. For this nom inal protection the gauzy wrap la, of course, perfect A pretty type of it la shown here by the artist. It was made of black moussellne de sole and white embroidered tnouasellne, consisting of two short capes; the lower black, the upper white. Commencing at the col lar In front two long tubs of pale gray silk reached below the waist and were garnished with Jet beads and lace applique. The collar employed both ma terials, and the embroidered mousse line formed a cascade Jabot In front. Some of these dainty garments are no niore than elaborated fichus, made with point reaching well to the belt at the back, and attached by a dainty belt te the fluffy knot at the waist In front Consistency and clearness of detail are given by bands of velvet or satin, and black Is the favorite color, though for country use lovely confections of this sort are gotten up In black dotted white. Liberty silks are also much used In their more gauzy qualities. Now that autumn Is not far away, it would seem to be time to consider wraps that are essentially protective, but fashion able women haven't a thought of that as yet Copyright 1897. NOVEL FORM OF HOSPITALITY. Plan by Which an Irishman Added to the Pom of H nman Enjoyment. A man with an unusual Idea of hos pitality was Mt. Mat hew of Thomas- ton, Ireland, who lived In the earlier years of the last century. Mr. Matbew Inherited an annual income of about ?12.",000. For many years he lived abroad In a very frugal manner In or der to accumulate an amount that would enable him to Indulge in a form of hospitality in hi own country In harmony with the plan he had devised. Ills house in Ireland might le com pared In size with a modern hotel. Each of those be wanted to vlrilt him had a suite of apartments and ordered his meaLs at the hour that best suited him. He could wit alone or he could invite others to Join him. All the vis itors hunted, shot, fished, played bil liards or cards at will and all brought their own horses. There was a regular bar where drinks were served with out stint Mr. Matbew as host com pletely effaced himself. He mingled with his visitors as one whose stay was as definitely fixed as theirs. In fact, he conducted hU house as if H were a hotel, with the exertion that- nJI was without charge. No servant was al lowed to accejut a ttp. Violation of this rule was followed by the liwtant dis missal of the offends. Thte establish ment, unlike otJier country bouses of Ireland of the period, was conducted with perfect order and wWJiout waste His hospitality was lavish, and attract ed to Mr. M.n!iew all of the more fa mous mem of the thne. The great sum that he had put askle during his reatf donce abroad enabled him to Indulge his hospitable Instincts until be died. Han Francisco Argonaut Russia will establish a Dermaneat diplomatic legation In Abyssinia. ' ''''' i v am j rwm A Fnmmer Mllkhonae. In the summer time a mllkhouse built like the one In the Illustration Is very convenient. It is adapted to sit uations where there Is no natural spring, but where the water must le pumped around the milk. A man who has tried a small bouse of this kind says of the one he built: It is 0 feet square and 0 feet high at the eaves, which is large enough for the milk of two or three cows. The house Is built under a large grape arlor, alout 20 feet from my kitchen pump. The milk tank, which Is 12 Inches deep and 14 Inches wide at the top, extends along the north side. It has a screen cover. which may be covered with cloth in very hot or dusty weather. A table with a shelf underneath occupies the southeast corner. A smce Just above the level of the tank, 2 feet wide and extending on all sides of the house, Is covered with wire screen. Shelves alwve the screen and below the tank give sufficient room for milk and butter dishes. The milk Is set in pulls. A gal vanized iron piie leads from a small tank at the side of the pump down 18 Inches below the surface of the ground, across the 20 foot space and up again to the level of the milk tank. An over flow pipe at the other end of the tank carries off the water after It has reach ed the proper height In the tank. An other pipe, at the Inn torn of the tank, is used for emptying it when desired. Handling a Ifulkr Kod'ler Crop. In cutting ensilage or fodder, a lit tle work transferred from hand to horse power often goes a great way to lessen exense. In the Illustration, which Is taken from Farm and Home, a simple method Is shown of unloading fodder or hay. Two ropes alut 'At feet long, depending on the length of the rack and height of load to be drawn, are used, one end of each lx-ing fastened to the hind axle of the wagon. They are then jmssed liaek and over the top of the rack between the two outer boards on either side. While loading, the ropes may be brought back under the outside of the rack and fastened almost any place on the rear part. When the load Is completed, the ropes are drawn over the fodder and tied to the back of the rack, acting in CKLOADIXO FODDER MADK EAST. the capacity of a bl tiding pole. To un load, fasten the ropes to a beam, and with the team draw the wagon slowly out from under the load. The first few times may not always prove success ful, but with a little practice the wagon may be unloaded in a few minutes. Mralg-bten the Stroma. It does not matter much how erook d the little stream may be that mean Sers through pasture lands. Hut if the field is to be cut for hay, or especially If It is desired to use the land for plow ing, It is important to have the brook tralghtened, so as to take as little room as possible. In many places a itralght, deep ditch, cut to lead off a ttreara that only runs In the spring, nay be profitably turned Into an under lain. A space a foot square each way, with an even fall, will carry off an im mense amount of water. If large, flat itones can be got for covering and heavy stone for siding such a drain Is ot expensive. The convenience of plowing over It and the land saved will make It pay. Pranlns la Important. The tn-giect of pruning for a single rear is never less than a serious Injury :o any fruit tree. Without proper vlgl 'auce dozens of shoots will spring out ind grow, to the Injury of the tree, not nly for that season, but for a consld irable time after. "Thumbnail" prun ng Is always the best, because It leaves 30 wound that will not cover itself the tame season. Every observer can see hat this Is true; but many orchards bow a neglect to apply the truth. Profit in Bran Ker1ln -. Every time a farmer buys bran for .'eedlng bis stock he also buys fertlllz irs. Bras and cotton-seed meal are rich In all the elements required In the teU, aad the cost Is repaid by the in BIMMKR MILKHOrSE. crease In weight of the animals. If the farmer can make the gain from the animals pay for the feed there will be a fair profit left In the immure heap, Hut this profit Is valuable according to the manner In which the fertilizing elements are preserved while In the heap. It Is In the management of the manure tlr.it the profit Is retained and future traps increased. How IMnnt Get Water. The fact that In wet weather the soil dries slowly even when covered with plants thiit ordluarlly drain the soil rapidly, leads some to think that when wet the leaves ubsorb moisture on them. Hur the fact can lie equally well accounted for by the knowledge that water on the leaves prevents them from evaporating the moisture brought from the soil by roots. This soil con tains some mineral elements which unite with carbonic acid gas from the air In forming plant tissue. While the leaves are wet they cannot absorb car bonic acid gas. This with the effect of stopping evaimratlon, makes the sapy growth which many, Jumping too quickly at conclusions, think must be caused by the direct absorption of wa ter through the leaves. Injury from Over Pruning. Most of our American varieties of grapes are very strong growers, and will not lMar the severe pruulng to which German anil French vlneyard ists subject their vines. We plant our vines further apart than do European vintners, and must leave proportion all.v more wood. As the vines grow older It Is generally found necessary to take out alternate vines so ns to let each vine occupy twice the trellis space originally allotted to It. Vines thus treated are much less liable to mildew. At the same time some root pruning Is advisable by cultivating more deep ly, and keeping the roots of the vines where they will lie less affected by sudden changes of temperature that usually precede attacks of mildew and grape rot. For Portlne Hoaa. A sorting pen Is most convenient when a herd of hogs Is to lie divided. Mine, says a correspondent of Hie Or ange Judd Fanner, Is built alongside a partition fence; a and b represent the two com part means. Tlie hogs are drivenfrom the pasture through the gates at h and d Into b. To sort them, one man stands at d and operates the gates d c nnd f e. Another man gets Into the pens and drives the hogs out, one at a time. The man at the gate turns them into the punt lire, g, or Into the pen, a, as d-lred. If the hogs are coming In a string thru' feet apnrt, they can lie put where wanted by sim ply swinging the gates. Kecerttly we sijirted In with a bunch of about 100 and sorted out W in 15 minutes with out a mistake. Fancy Farmer. "Fancy farmers," or the owners of "fancy" stock, are frequently ridiculed, but it Is due to their willingness to im prove stock and their ierslstency In ad hering to their belief In something bet ter than scrubs that the farmer Is bene fited. The man of capital goes on with his Improvement of stock, and may suf fer loss at first, but after a while he Iteglns to make profits, the fanners !e Ing lifted up with him, as the farm on which Improved breeds are specialties becomes a fountain source from which superior animals are distributed In all directions. Farm Notra. In all breeding defective points are more easy of reproduction than desir able products. On great help lu killing out weeds Is not to allow nny to mature seeds. Look after this now. The triple income from a flock of sheep, wool, lambs and mutton come in at different seasons. System in feeding and breeding to and for correct standard is essential In the management of all stock. Allowing weeds to grow is robbing the soil of needed plant food and moist ure. Keep the weeds down. A hog Is not necessarily a filthy ani mal, and If he is to make meat for food it Is essential that he should lie cleanly raised. Keep the young pigs growing during the summer while on good pasturage, and It will lm much easier to fatten them In the fall. When wheat is to follow corn it will lessen the work of seeding very ma terially If the cultivation of the corn has Is-en clean and thorough. Cut wheat when the grain begins to harden well, and shock up as fast as cut Wheat requires but little curing and should be stacked soon after cut ting. The sprouts which grow up around the base of a tree from the roots should le cut out as fast as they appear, as they appropriate plant food that should nourish the tree. They are also un sightly and destroy the appearance of an orchard. Orowers who raise cucumbers for market say the first crop from a par ticular field is better than any subse quent one. The soil Itecomes filled with enemies of tbe crop and a change Is necessary. Some growers find It ad visable to take new soil every year. 8 r -a f id J b J I'KJt FOB SOHTIXO UOOS. Fait and lt Properties. Used In washing the hair It will pre eut the hair from falling out. A teasjMKinful of salt in a lamp will lake kerosene oil give a brighter light Added to a bucket of water It fonns a emarkably effective fire extinguisher. A handful of rock salt added to the ath Is the next best thing to an ocean ip. Damp salt will remove the dlscolora- lon of tea and the like in dishes that ave leen carelessly washed. New calicoes soaked in a strong solu- lon of salt for an hour before wash- ag will retain their colors better. As a dentrliJce salt and water will ot only cleans' but whiten the teeth. nd will harden the gums. When broiling steak a pinch or two of alt thrown on the fire will quench tha 'ames arising from the dripping fat. A weak solution is good for sore hroat, to be used as a gargle, and this i still better If a few grains of red epper are added. Ink stains may be removed by the 'se of moistened salt. When It becorws Iscolored remove It and use a fresh upply until no color remains. A weak solution of salt In water Is a ood remedy for slight indigestion, es ecially that characterised by a sense f weight and oppression. Dissolved In water and snuffed up he nostril It Is of use In curing catarrh, lit when chronic Its use must be per istal In night and morning for several tionths. A little salt in raw or Iwilcd starch rill prevent the irons from sticking, tnd make the starch whiter. If the rons are rough lay some salt on a piece if brown paper, lay a piece of muslin iver It and rub the Irons on It until hey are bright and smooth. Why Ice Wnter I Injnrlona. The reason why so many physicians bject to the drinking of water during aieal time Is that Americans, as a rule, Irlnk Ice water. The temperature of the stomach Is from OS degrees to 100 legrees Fahrenheit. After a meal It diould le from 00 degrees to 102 d- rroes, and if a in rson is exercising It tomet lines will run up to lf.i degrees. Sow this temperature is necessary to rarryon digestion In a perfectly health ful way. Constant drinking of Ice water luring the meal or an Ice at the close jt the meal will reduce the tempera ture of the stomach sometimes to 05 icgrces, which would stop digestion, and sooner or later render one a con Q lined dyspeptic. Water of an ordinary temperature Is not so objectionable In fact. It would be ts-tter to take a swallow of water now and then dur ing the meal provided the water is cool, not Iced. FcmsIs that are slightly dilute ed are more easily digested than those which are concentrated and dry. La dies' Home Journal. To M nke foar. A good way to make soap Is with soda and lime. Dissolve six pounds of common washing sislu and three ixmnds of uuslacked lime in four gallons of boiling water. Let the mixture stand until the water above It Is perfectly clear. Drain off this water. Now pour In two gallons of cold water and let It settle dear. Drain this second water off In a pan. Put six isjunds of clean grease with the lime and soda, and let the mixture boll slowly for two hours till It Is'ulns to burden. Thin It as It lstils with the two gal lons of water which was drained Into the pan. Add this water as It is need ed; It will not require all, only enough to prevent the soup from boiling over. When a little of the cooled soap hard ens, add a handful of salt and mix well, and pour Into a mold that has lieeu well wet with water to prevent the soap sticking to the mold. When it Is solid cut it Into bars. Let the bars dry for three months. The "Chocolate Habit." Phys11ans feel called upon to warn us of rhe dangers of the "cluwolute habit." They say the women and glrU of the jK'riod are quite too fond ft chocolate in the form of bonbons, lc Ings, Ice creams and soda too fond for the welfare of their complexions. 8o much chocolate makes the skin ye I. low and brings on derangements of the stomach. Too much chocolate and cocoa, as beverages, are also unwhole some, lxith Uflng constipating in tuoli effect. To Clean Stove Steel. Hurnlshed steel on stoves and grniei Is sometimes mistaken for nickel. St it?) is used wiiere exposed to great heal Is-enuse the nickel s-ali off at a high temjMTRture. A manufacturer oJ stoves says the bet way to dean thli steel when tarnished Is to rub It oil with tsiphtha. Of course there mual be no fire In the stove, or in the room, when this Is done. Wet a soft clot! with naphtha awl rub the steel brlsklj tlH well polished, then rub with a drj cloth. Pleaalag Table I'ecoratlona. Ferns ore much liked as cental pieces. Exquisite vases of glass, four fee) high, are now used for long-stcmmes roses. I4irge, odd shaped shells are exqul site whi n filled with vines, mosses and fine flowers. Noticing can le more effective lu tb way of vas for roses than the neai glass Jars which are used for electrU Iwtteries. Quaint shaped jugs or Jars of Japan ese ware In dull, subdued hues can Is utilized for admlraMe receptacles tot brilliant colored flowers. J X A..