GOWNS AND GOWNING
WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION
WHAT THEY WEAR.
Olaacae at Fauclea Feaalnina,
Frlvelaaa, Mayhap, aod Tct Offered
la I ha Hope that tba Reading- Prove
Beetfai to Wearied Wowanklad.
Ooaalp from Gay Uotbaam.
York ctmMioDduc9:
OUE thau half of
the Item of Inter
est that the spring
fashion display
fur dressmaker
concern coat bod
ices, o womeu
bould cot tire of
bearing about
them. Fashion
baa reduced Itself
to a coat of an
other color aud re
fused to do more.
A 1 1 tulloruiade
gown are being
modeled with
c o a t , though,
truth to tell, most
of them have silk bodice to go be
neath, milliliter towns are being made
with laee cohih over fronts and foun
dation of silk anil little coal a of chif
fon and of net so dainty that they
would seem too frail to survive more
than one wear, arp really planned for
Ix-liiS adjusted over varying waists.
If your ImmIIiv Is a coat In no other
wtif. at least It will have a little pair
of tails, perhaps no more than the
extension below the waist of (he bark
breadth of the bodice, or there will be
fconir-thlng In the way of hip piece set
on at the sides. Perhaps coal edges
will lie simulated by braid alsive the
waist, or, Just because the skirts of
the ImmIIiv that were carefully hidden
under the dress skirt last year are al
lowed to show Im'Iow the belt this
mason, you say It's a coat, and fashion
backs up the statement.
Hut there's no need of doing the
trick on tint w hnle-effect-at small out
for thl me. lu eome Mr the frill
I of mat -rial and -olor to match thi
ribbon of whli'.! the collar 1 made, J
but U faced with Velvet on the side
ueit the -'ace, then the frill stands out
flat, putting the fa'-e, so to spcik. on
a platter. AH sorts of variations ate
rung on this effect, an I many of them
are very Is-conilng. But tlie close
stock collar Is no longer to be con
sidered, ludeeit, why should It be,
when the required alteration la no
aslly made?
It 1 atteutlon to Just ucb little things
at these collar tricks tuai mase a
woman aeeui well dressed, aud prompt
copying -au, in this Instance. t- ef
fected at auiall outlay. Another meth
od of attaining the concealment of the
neck that 1 deemed essential la by the
wired niedicl collars. These are much
worn, as may be Judged from a glance
at the remaining Illustrations. In the
flrnt of these the collar la In one with
it 'vi,h
ALL ABOUT THE KAItM
SUBJECTS INTERESTING
RURAL READERS.
TO
Potato Planting with Modern Mr
cnlnery-tiood Fences Are Important-Many
I'lcaaurea In Ksrm Work
-How to Guard Aitainat Hoc Cholera.
Planting Pointer.
In planting potatisn, either for home
or for market, the first essential, says
tin; American Agriculturist, is a well-
drained, rich plat of laud. A new
which has Im-cii two years lu clover is
usually the best. To Uils apply a heavy
dressing of well-rotted bainyani ma
nure. ISreak the simI In the fall or thrt
wiuter three or four bu hl's deep, then
lu spring turn it over to a depth of eight
or nine inches, and cut up thoroughly
with a disk harrow, continuing .he
operation until Ihe soi-d ImiI Is wen
fined and lu the lM-st condition. I se a
snnsrthilig harrow to compact It suffi
ciently, ao that it will not Iw dried out
unduly. The ground Is now ready for
planting. The old method of hand
planting will probably continue for :h
A HI.KN'II OK ( Al-E AND JACKET.
unit rm.i.AH to r.AH Ties.
lay principle. There tire a plenty of
way to make the bodice tiiuuistaknbly
a emit, and a handsome model of this
kind Is shown altove. It is In lml XV.
atyle, but that signifies little to most
f u. What Is more to the point Is
"the material of it. That was royal blue
cloth encrusted with lace applique.
The deep ginlets lit back were border
-d with narrow lace Insertion, and
the fitted cloth vest had large revers
of white faille and bands "f the same
In the waist, each fastened with large
fancy burtons in different size. A
profusion of lace nppllipie showed on
the sleeve puff, and a white chiffon
ruche and Jabot finished the neck.
With this came a plain skirt of gray
ish blue doth.
The presence of handsome but Ions
nn this rich tmdlce shows the way the
wind blows. Buttons ate still a fen
tur on elegant gowns; Indcod, nnlesa
buttons are made ft renin re they are
ntoio not to ntmear at all and the
.own fastens Invisibly. The ruche
about the neck, too. Is another re
upon to current demands. These
neck filings are lieconilng more and
more pronounced. Capes and coats
are made with wired battlement
.i.linv nr. to i he ears. Inside these
.i ..... - i -
battlements two or three rows of tine
i ..lnaiod mull are set. the mull, tulle
or net atandlng well above the battle
menui The face Is literally shrouded
bout with these soft billows of ruf
ut.Lr ami rilibon collars are
an Ingenious cape-like linlsli to tlitf
bodice The stuff here Is bronze-brown
doth, a narrow white satin vest show
Inir In front. Each side of the vest has
u tlnv nocket. and the tots of both
fronts and vest show brown silk em
broidery. In the second model the
collar la lu one with odd revets, the
stuff being old rose bcngaline. The
same fabric- is gathered for the bodice.
while or. the revers It Is richly embrold
ered with n-d and pink silk and span
gles. Triangular pieces of garnet vel
vet utMM-ar on the shoulders, and Mock
collar and belt arc white taffeta rib
lam. Skirt and sleeve are garnet silk
i-i.imn thouL'h the latter may be of
the bengallm- if that Is preferred.
v.if lex elalsu-ati! ami dressy are
some ol tin- gowns lor e.ui.v no' in
that are trimmed In cape effect, the or
naineutalloii In many cases taking not
only the shape of a cape, but supplym
so much of the capo's protection ngalm:
hilllm-ss that the dr.-ss may be safely
worn without an outsiue garment -u
ooeeal Its lM-antles. A type of this
sort is next pictured, lis comiiuiauon
of cape and Jacket effect being quite
unliite. The matetiaj Is gray cloth,
while satin being used for pointed vest
and as faring to the ripple nasque,
rever a ml wired collar. Inside the
latter there Is a white satin collar, end
lug lu a line JalMft, and the eape-llku
nverlofs to tlie sleeves are In two
nnrts. of lace, tlie otner 01 cioiu,
A MW HKVKH KfFKtT.
generally mounted with frill of some
kiod, even If they do not extend all
around them at Ihe back. The long
Jlaeardad wlilto and yellow ruchlng
that wnc by the yard appear ag.ilu
FIO. 1. IIANtl CUTTKR.
general farmer who cultivates but
amall patch for his own use. The pota
toes are cut by hand to two eyes, drop
ped In rows three feet apart, with the
hllbi eighteen inches apart lu the row
If they are to be plowed one way, and
two and one-hulf to throe feet apart if
they are to 1m- cultivated crosswise
Checking, however, la hardly ever m e
essary except where the bind Is very
foul. For commercial planting, hand
processes are entirely too slow, conse
quently Inventor have constructed ma
rhinos birth for cutting the potatoes Into
suitable sized pieci-s and for planting
them. There la also on the market a
machine which cuts the wed and nt the
. , . ..i ... r-1
name time does me piannug. ri i
and 2 represents a hand lHrtato ctrtter
w hich will do the work of eight or ten
persons. I lie potato is uroppeo imo me
hopper, the handle brought over and
pressed dow n, and the potato-is cut Into
piece of a uniform size. rig. t repre
sents the Ixrttom of the hopper, enwsed
by six knives, with one running length
wise. The number of knives can ho
di-crcam-d so as io make larger pieces
of It, or can lx- Increased and smaller
piece obtained. This machine can
auto be tisi-d for cutting boels, turnips.
uarrots, and other rools for stock feed.
ask advice about weeding clover tQ
grai Held that baa Im-cu lu hot-d crw
for two year, but for which he haa no
manure or fertilizer unless he buys on
credit, ay Ktorr'a Agricultural Stand.
rd. If he ha use for the fodd-r, it
crop of oat and pea, aud clover growii
,therewith, for plowing under lu tint
fall, would be a good order to follow
In-fore si-ediug dowu. If this plan la
adoiiteil. I would advise the use of .VKI
pounds of lsjne and pounds of muriJ j
ate of potash per acre when the oataj
and peas are sown. Sow oue aud oikm
half bushel each of oats aud of peas as
early as the ground can be worked,
plow the peas under and sow the outs
and fifteen pounds of common red
doversii-d after plowing aud harrow
lightly, liilews tlie ground is quite dry
the doversced should only be bushed lu.
mflerrnt Kinda of Itone Meal.
Hone meal is not couliued to one
name, but is known aluo as ground
bone, Isme flour, Ismedust, etc. We
find In the market raw bone meal and
steamed bone meul. Itaw bone meal
contains the fat naturally present in
lsities. The presence of the fat I oIh
Jectiouable, Is-cause it makes the
grinding more difficult aud retards th
decomposition of tlie Isine in the soil,
while fat ltelf has uo value us plau
food. When boues are steamed, the
fat Is removed and the bone Is more
eaully ground. Mori-over, the chemical
nature of the nitrogen compounds ap
pars to l changed lu such a manuei
that the mini undergoes decomposition
In the soil more rapidly than iu iitse of
raw bone. The presence of easily de
caying nitrogen compounds in bones
hastens, In the process of decomposi
tion, to dissolve more or les of t lie
Insoluble phosphate. Hone meal should
contain from 8 to 5 per cent, of nitro
gen, and from 2(1 to 25 per cent, of plnm
phorle add. About one-third to one
fourth of the latter appears to be In
rwadily available condition. Raw 1mih)
meal generally contains somewhat mora,
nitrogen (1 or 2 per cent.) and rating
less phosphoric acid than steamed boml
meal. The fineness of the meal affects.
Its value; the liner the meal the word
n-adily available is it as plant food.
Hulletiu New York Station.
rio. 'I. KMKK OF HAND Ct'TTKH.
A (OMPIIOMISK IS STIIAI-S.
Machines for planting potatoes at the
rate of four to eight acres per day are
no longer eu experiment. One man
only is needed to operate the machine
that plants cut seed, while the auto
matic cutter and planter requires a
man and loy. These Implements open
the furrow, drop the Heed, and any
desired amount ami kind of fertilizer,
ami cover evenly with soil to a uniform
depth, bringing nn even stand. A mark
er Indicate the next row and keejis tlie
rows straight. One of these machine
soon saves tts com on a inrin wnen-
potatoes are growu to any extenl.
Plcaaurea of Farm Work.
Manv people despise their work,
When thev ought to be thankful that
Draining In Place of Grading.
It la often said by farmers that low.
wet places need to be filled In so thai
the water that now settle in them can
run off over the surface, says the Amen
lean Cultivator. Hut anyone who tries
to grade up even a small hollow know!
how inelTiH-tlve this method proves.
tile drain dug through the center of tin
wet place, If a small one, and with two
or three branches If larger, will do tba
work much more cheaply and effect a
permanent Improvement. Where
large quantity of water runs Into 1h
low place from adjoining uplands the
drain may not at once be able to re
move it. Hut water standing over n
field even for two or three days, whlli)
an under-drain beneath it is carryinfl
off the surplus water, does no harm tfl
any crop. There are. In fact, no crop
on the land In spring excepting win
grain. We have had winter wheat cov
ered on a flat piece of land several Inch
cm deep with water, which froze ovi
the surface, but without any injury I
tlie wheat. The water sank away un
der tlie Ice. Hy the time a thaw cainf
the surface was dry ami the crop had
simply been saved by the Ice from ex
iioHiire to tlie freezing and thawing ol
Htirface soil it would otherwise have re
ceived.
PRETTY Princess Marie, of taxe-Coburg-tiotha,
was taken to Her
lin In 1M2. when she was just
17, and there met the handsome crow n
prince of Itoumaula, who very quickly
recognized her charms. Princess Marie
was equally attracted to bim, for be,
as w ell as being handsome, is possessed
of great charm of manner and upright
ness of character, a prince fitted in ev
ery way to be a hero of romance. Tlie
betrothal took place not long after
their meeting with the cordial assent of
all the relatives of both prince and
princess; and on Jan. 11, their
marriage was celebrated at Sigmariu
geu. The beauty and youth of Princess
Marie touched nil hearts, and her w in
ning manner soon made ln-r as beloved
by King Charles as if she was actually
his ow u daughter. The Queen of Hou-
manbi is us charmed with her new niece
as the king is, and looks on her and
treats her as a daughter, finding in her
compuniniishlp a relief from her sad
memories aud tits of melancholy.
The costume worn by the Crown
rim-ess Marie of Itoumaula, iu the por
trait which accompanies this article,
was worn by her at a recent festivity
in Hticbarest. The petticoat was or
plain silk, the overdress being of rlch-
st brocade, the design of bunches of
feathers tied together with true lovers
knots being very dainty :ind effective.
Tlie fichu of Ht-usselH lace was draped
in exact Imitation of that worn by a
lead and goue beauty iu a portrait
from which the costume was copied.
Since Princess Marie's advent in
Ruehnrest the leaders of society there
have done their best to devise novel
and brilliant entertainments to amuse
her royal highness, and she and her
handsome young husband are untiring
in attending festivities and other func
tions in aid of dimities when the pres
ence of the rovaltv is desired in order
to secure the success of the undertak
ing. Now that Qui Ca rmen-Sjiva's
health does not permit her to exert lier-
wbat taste may be. If moiM-grama ar
hoarded, it is these that decorate in
stead of tlie wax impressions. A "tripj
fan means the record of a wiuter jour
ney, and it holds on its sticks tlie pretrj
imprints with which all first-class ho
tels now stamp their stationery. If a
European trip has been undertaken,
so much the ls-tter. as that insures
steamship and other effective insignia;
Sweater for Women.
I-'or a long time girls, and even wo
men, have felt that they would lie hap
pier if they could wear sweaters. It
was tried by some adventurous spirits,
and while found perfectly satisfactory
about the throat lacked the symmetry
women have learned to prize alxiut the
w aist. This had led to the manufacture
of women's sweaters. These luck that
M A 111 It, KL'TIRB Ql'EKN OF llOt MA.VIA
TIIK KEMIN1NK SWEATER.
self, the burden of acting as her ma
Jesty's representative generally falls
on Princess Marie's shoulders.
n tiiu Mleea- are iMirdered with cold thev have something to do. A man or
and steel galloon, aud white satin bow woman who goes through life loathing
are nut on the cloth cape pieces. 1 dally work Is a miserable mortal
Slran garnitures that make a great w mkes this world full of hell, and
.hnn nt fu i on I ii iT tiarls of a (I rcss to- nrenares the way for plenty of It In
cether and that really have no pur- (. next, says Kuriil Life. A child
., lu'vund lhat of ornamentation are n,,it hiis not Im-cii laught to work has
ytlll in voirue. but on them buckles have u lM.en half
.rtv-i.n wv to buttons, and It I more
often the plau lo have the straps servo
as fasteners. The final gown to re
ceive 1he artist's attention la a com
promise In this matter, the strap upon
bodice being practicable, while on the
.1,1. find uleevea thev are rolely for
pivii v -- -----
effect. The stuff from which they are
cut Is inn doth, the other goods being
brocaded green km tin. Panels of the
Inner appear on the skirt, aud It gives
tl... whole bodice, the collarette being
from the cloth.
The blaze of color In spring and sum
mer will rival the tulips. Hats, too.
are almost garish In their abundance
of bright hues. Turquoise blue prom
ises to be the most popular summer
color, but geranium scarlet and bright
grass green are not far lK-hlnd. That
menus Hint the brunettes will have the
best of It. but they need not lie over-
..(vnni'.cnt. Ict aome sudden shift of
favor turn the tide ngaJnst them.
Copjrltht, 1HDC.
In man, the sense of smell Is less tle-veloK-d
than that of alRnt, a It Is mucli
less needed.
All motha produce aoum form of aUlc.
raised. An education
that does not develop mi lilts or in-
luslry Is a curse lo Its recipient, and
the recipient Is a curse lo the State.
Iu this new country of ours there is
abundant opportunity for everybody
who loves to work lo get rich. In
dustrious people are tlie happiest, most
virtuous, and companionable of all so
ciety. Industry begets nil Ihe cimlinnl
virtues, while indolence begets mis
ery, want, vh-p linn crime, ami tnese
things follow the rich as well as the
poor. I met a fanner not long ago
who bad learned In hate bis lot upon
the farm, lie had determined to sell
out and CO to a certain Utile village
aud open a restaurant. The village
ting already twice as many restaurants
ta the customer needs. The farmer
lins never had any experience In run
ning a reslaurnnt or walking In town
life. It Is, therefore, safe tp predict
that he will utterly fnll and learn to
hate the restaurant tenfold worse than
the farm.
Hniolt Llttera Arc Beat.
T lM-lleve that a sow that produce
six or eight pig at a litter will bring
h better Income generally than one
that produces twelve or fifteen pigs.
says a writer In an exchange. The rea
son why I think so is this: A sow in
farrowing twelve or fifteen Is alinosl
sure to have a lot of them small
very runty and no account whatever
Almost sure to be all sizes, and what
Is more disgusting than to have a largt
litter of pigs of all sizes. A litter ol
this kind seldom grows and does as
much good according to the food con
sumed as a smaller litter. The un
evenness of tlie litter seems to be thf
worst feature or the situation, lot
the reason that the larger. oues fight
off the smaller ones, and thereby, aftei
a while, tlie smaller ones begin to
dwindle and die, and after all, you
have nothing left of your large llttei
but a few of the larger ones, where, l(
you hud eight goods pigs to start with,
you would not be lxt tiered with tin
trouble 1 have sixiken of.
Heeding to tiraaa.
A Conne-cticut farmer, who jrlves no
clew as a the character of the soil, nor
the kltvd of fanning he la engaged In,
llrinklnx Water.
Speaking of drinking water for Urn
bens is n subject too often left out
of consideration, says Home and l-'nrni.
They don't want or need a great deal,
but they want it with n vehemence
that makes up for any lack in quanti
ty. And in cold weather they oughl
to have it willi the chill taken off.
Cold water may not hurt the hen'
leeth. but It does tlie rest of Iheli
organism, and lis Isn't good for them
A good plan is lo give the flock watet
three times a day, and to empty thf
vessel from which they have drunk
afterward, so as to prevent thcwiitei
freezing in it.
Guard AtcuiiiBt Hon Cholera.
On farms where cholera appeared
last Slimmer and fall new hog lot
ought lo be provided this spring, and
the animals should not be allowed t;
run In pastures which weri frequented
by diseased slock. If necessary, H)
n patch of clover, which will take tin
place of a regular pasture field. I.oll
can usunllv Ik- moved at comparative
ly small expense. 1'nless precaution)
of Ibis kind are taken, another out
break may occur tit any time. Propel
sanitation, food and good enre may
ward It off.
(Jooil Fence on the Farm,
flood fences are hii Important thlnj
on every farm, nnd they need to bi
kept In good repair. Keep weeds nu
brush well culled out of tne corner.
Nourishment for tlie Hkln.
A dry, scaly skill is a sure Indication
of u blood disturbance, and frequently
accompanies dyspepsia. The best treat
ment for It is a careful diet, an avoid
ance of all highly seusoned food, coffee,
tea and alcoholic stimulants. Some
times a dry skin Is the result of a long
Illness where fever has literally burned
tlie cuticle so that it is parchment. The
skin food which nourishes and builds
up the skin tissues und supplies the oils
that, have beeu exhausted by heat is
most efficacious if applied at night, af
ter a warm bath. It is well to rub it
thoroughly Into the skin. Massage Is
excellent In connection with this treat
ment. Melt In a water bath three
ounces of spermaceti, eight ounces of
oil of almonds, four of laiulollne. and
two ounces of cocoanut oil. Stir briskly
until cold; then add, drop by drop, one
ounce of orange-flower water and ten
drops of oil of Jasmin. Keep sealed,
except when using.
Timely and Untimely Calls.
The only objection to having a recep
tion day eugraved on your cards is lhat
sometimes, as the Irishman said, It w-as
"niolghty oni-onveulent." "It is the un
expected tba t always happens." For
tunate the lady who has grown-up
daughters or an unmarried sister who
can fill her place temporarily. It re
quires more unselfishness than most of
us possess to give up one day every
week to the claims of society; so we
only have the name on our cards and
go on year after year missing friends
we long lo see. and being "at home" to
numerous acquaintances whom we
wish had not been quite so fortunate
In timing their calls.
style which made the manly sweater
so desirable In women's eyes. Hut, on
the other hand, they gather in at the
waist and are entered after a manner
more familiar to women than Is the
male sweater. At first they were only
used lu gymnasiums, but now they are
considered a necessary part of almost
every woman's wardrobe. The up-to-date
sweater Is not only a sensible gar
ment, but an exceedingly stylish one
as well. The coming summer girl will
lie devoted to Hie sweater. She can
wear it. when wheeling, riding, or sail
ing, and in fact, they are sure to be the
fastest friends, for there will lie dozens
of times when the little knit arrange
ments will just fit Hie occasion.
The modernized sweater is far re
moved from awkwardness. It tits like
a glove and the sleeves are generally
the long, full bishopy sort, with a tight
webbed cuff, which dings to tlie arm
snugly from elbow to wrist, and over
which Hie full upper part falls with
all gracefulness that fashion demands.
One can find all colors and styles in
sweaters. Sailor collars and neatly
rolled-over small ones are the kinds
most generally seen and they give a
very jaunty effect. The act of getting
Into one of these garments looks to be
a heart-breaking operation, but in real
ity it is simplicity itself. They either
button on the shoulder or lace in front,
aud it is no more trouble to get Into
one of them Ihiiu an ordinary waist.
Novel Matrimonial Hureun.
It is reported thill the ladles of the
W. C. T. I", of Portsmouth, Va., are
about to organize a unique movement
tinder the name of tlie Naples Matri
monial Society. In Naples girls 14 and
over assemble once every year In one
of Ihe churches of that city, and the
uiinia i-rieil men who so desire go there
and chixme wives. Tlie Portsmouth la
dles propose to work on the same prin
ciple, but both the girls and the men
must, register three months before
making choice, In order t lint iitvestlga
tlon of character may be niad.
lieautie of Olden Daya.
Sappho is said by the Creek writer
to have been a blonde.
Jezebel, the Queen of Ahab, according
to one of the rabbis, had 'black eye.
that were set on fire by hell."
The Empress Auna of Itussla waa
very portly and the fleshiness of hei
face greatly detracted from Its good
looks.
Margaret of Aujou bad the typical
face of a French beauty. She waf
black-haired, black-eyed and vivacious,
Her features were Indicative of hei
strength of character.
Pocahontas is described as ha vim
features as regular as those of a Euro
pean woman. She is also said to hav
had a lighter complexion than usual
among Indian women.
Theodora, the wife of the famous Jus
tinian, was beautiful, crafty nnd.uii
scrupulous. She Is said to have been
tall, dark and with "powers of conver
sation superior to any woman lu th
empire."
Catherine of Hraganza, queen ol
Charles II., was singularly gifted both
in person and in intellect, but In spite
of her beauty and her good sense she
was never able to wiu Ihe love of hri
dissolute husband.
Cleopatra was not an Egyptian, but a
I reek beauty, with pertectly white
skin, tawny half and blue eyes. Het
chief fascination was her voice, whlcll
is described as low, well modulated and
singularly sweet in tone.
Tlie Empress Catharine I. had a
coarse, red face, generally broken oul
with pimples from the constant use ol
at rung drink. She waa n slave to brandy
and died of a disease brought on by In
temperance. In youth she had been
famous for her beauty.
M on oar am Fan for Young; Women,
Seal and monogram fans are a notion
of the moment among young women
till In their teens. A plain white or
delicately tinted fan Is selected, nnd
the say seals are arranged upon It with
Tame Fish in Irrigating Reservoirs,
The useg of 1ho artificial reservolrt
are not limited to Irrigation; they an
usually stocked with fish, which mul
tlply with surprising rapidity nnd en
able the farmer to Include this Item
ot home produce In bis bill of fan
every day in the year. .These Hsli an
very tame, nnd In some ease are act it
ally trained to respond to t he ringing ol
the dinner-bell, coming In scurrylm
shoals to light for crumbs of bread
thrown upon the water. The reaep
voir also yield a profitable crop of lei
In wlnler.-Oetitury,
