GOWNS AND GOWNING
WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION
TO WHAT THEY WEAR.
Brief Glaacea at Piacici Femiaiaa,
Frivolous, Xijhip, and Vet Offered
la the Hope that the Heading Prove
ateatfol to Wearied Womankind.
Goaalp from C-mj Gotham.
York lrr!oIll-ne
' Vl'Al V care should
be taken with
house ilrcwM-H, and
'It 1 a very fool
ish woman who
r.' lij.'f'-'ljjt.r I wise woman
'knows that It Is
easy enough to
look her best when
she lit. so to speak,
on parade, and It
Is uo matter of dif
ficulty to make a
food Imprewslon
and to plan a
gown that ahall
second one's beat
-ffort to please for a half hour or an
evening, but to be attractive at home,
to make the people who see you every
lay look a sii-ond time and Kay, "I nev
er naw you looking better," or even
"prettier," that'll a problem to tax the
"wit of a witch. To meet all the re
quirement of domestic, sial and Inti
mate home life and be gowned suitably
and becomingly for all, that's a ques
tion. To go on giving the husband sur
Jirlws, to ward off the sneer of one'
host woman friend who happens in at
Inopportune times, and then gis-s away
Mid tells how you have "gone off" since
yrur marriage, all these things need
DMtant anl careful thought. It Is, In
a. word, safe to be well dressed every
rt!nute at home. To allow yourself an
off moment when you think no one will
ee you, or to go trailing als.ut In un-
roH A IIOWNSTAIIIS lll!K. K PAST.
tidy unbceoinlngness, H practically to
oonfiws that no one cares how you look.
Commence at the day's higlutiing to
carry this out. Don't allow yourself to
turn out of bill, a some women do, and
Ktatwl around through n jiortlou of your
toilet in your night drew. Even those
women that claim artistic beauty and
h.11 that for Uie night 1ns time their
praliM to the hours of moonlight anil
tom Jet, and admit that In the glare of
morning it becomes a different matter.
While to have a. dainty substitute Is
not a riei-esslty, It yet Is not an affecta
tion; and if a garment's lsiiuty be suf
ficient excuse for lis employment, as
some claim It Is. then the adorable gown
of becoming soft silk, fluffy with nif
flif, that Is to be slipped oil over the
night dress is beyond the need of ud vo
ltes. The first picture gives a dainty
utiggct-tlon for such n garment. It hits
big sleeves, ami knots In at the waist
with a sash tie. 'Jims, all in a moment,
a woman nmkes a new picture of her-
wlf. If that iHtrtlciilur friend happens
In, or Die dresimHker, or some one who
must be wen, there Is further service
for It There are such luxurious wom
en, fhat. In a gown like this, they have
their breakfast coffee and roll. Then
In Illness, what could tend more to mak
ing the patient ls-tter than to feel that
when the dislor comes he will find that
nhe l far from a flight. Such a gown
may be made of soft fin unci, and may
ahow the pretty neck, or be high about
the throat, jiwt a.s seems the most be
coming. Attired In it a woman will he
every bit bj fetching as when she Is ar
rayed for a formal breakfast.
i-'or the latter, when a gown Is want
ed that will be loose and easy, try some
thing of the Kinplre kind. The Mother
AS MOIIMI.m KNIl.
Hubbard li an abomination. 1 he man
-who wife appears before him In one
oufht to b allowed a divorce at once
ra tfnt ground afotio. It la a problem to
plan gown th.t ahall not be formal
and tight and yet not wrapper-like and
aloticny. A feaafble design next baa
1b artist's attwitlon. It Iscnt prloceaa,
but follow the lines of the figure only
(
-
over the bunt, the skirt spreading away
from there. A cunningly devised ar
j mngcmeiit of drajery can slinulaie
tartlally the tit of a bodice, the gown
! i.)...u'li. ip alu.o.. ! K..L-., If....-
uvn,,iA ........ 1 1. jwnr mil i. iH M H I r
of dumpiness ill your wrapers, net the
wily long ended bow where It will do
the most good, a In this model, for in
stance, at one shoulder, the ends hang
ing to the Boor. Beware, too, of show.
ing tov much of the throat and neck
In a morning gown. Nothing better lie-
conies one than a high, clow collar
mounted with a ruche that clings close.
Choose soft, "affording" colors. You
may risk an unbecoming gown by gas
light, but the color must be just right
for the morning. Breakfast time Is the
test of a woman's beauty and of her
taste In dress, too. It Is a wise notion
to wear trained gowns as often as possi
ble In the house. The young matron
can simply revel In trains, thereby
making herself look as dignified as can
be, and can so Impress her school
friends who come to talk over old times
that they will depart wondering how
she ever grew to it all so quickly.
Nothing aeeuis more suitably digni
fied and graceful for the house than a
trained dress, especially those for early
In the day when an effect of dlshablllf
Is admissible, but by noon yon ls-gln to
be more trim. You need not look just
like the next picture, but you should
seem daintily groomed when you bsik
over the bills, and perhaps appear lie
fore the awed tradesman to tell him
that he has overcharged, or that "Mr.
Jones does not approve" of something.
You may wear a trained skirt still, but
the belt needs to be distinctly de
fined, even though yon we.n- over
your shoulders some dainty fichu affair
with long tabs that hang Is-low the
waist line. There are lots of these af
fairs that give Just that air of dressi
ness without which a woman cannot
afford to be at home. It is Just this at
tention to detail that makes the "some
body" of home feel Just the least bit
"prinked" for. and nothing so flatters
a limn as to see that his wife Is fixing
up to please him.
Ity afternoon you must be more trim.
(Jive up the train, have the gown lit
more snugly, let the material be crisp,
and play a general effect of exactness.
All sorts of pretty effects are to be had
out of the half Jacket model. Follow
this next pictured one and try n Iswllce
that looks like a blouse snugly fitted In
at the walsi by a close belt. I.lttlo flar
ing Jacket skirts show below the belt.
The blouse fantetis Under the (inn; In
front It Is slanhed from tlmmt to bust
line, and turned back in cisit collai
revetn to whow a pleated yoke. Tin
blouse has no sleeven, only extending
epaulettes that stand out over the undet
sleeves, which are of maternl to match
the yoke. l,et 1hls hloiiHe lie soini
dainty flowered challle or wah stuff
and the yoke, sleeves and skli t of plain
jolor.
As much as possible, go In for wash
goods for the house. All the dresse
suggested can be made of wash goods
There are women that have their Hum
mer garden dresses all made with a
view to house wear In the winter, and
some of the very ewelhtit hostesses art
starling the fashion of afternoon and
morning receiving In cotton drewsc.
the lovely crepes that yon can't tell from
wool wtt hout touching them. The sleeve
len blouses dcscrllied herein are very
pretty made In openwork, all-over wash
stuff, allowing a aolld color end materi
al beneeth, but whatever you wear look
your bent In the house, no matter what
the rime of day.
f'npyrleht, ISO.
Col. Thomas Wenlworth Illgglusou
Is recovering, though slowly, from bit
recent serious Illness, lie Is still coo lin
ed to his lied, hut a few of hli mowt In
timate friend are now permitted to
see him for a few minutes each day.
Had habits are ai Infectious by exam
pie as the plague Itself Is by contact
-FlaJdlng.
AFTEKNOOn EXACTNESS.
IN HIK OHAV OK tlOMKSTICATION.
CHAMPION WOMAN ANGLER.
JK any proof were needed that main
strength is a secondary considera
tion with the practiced angler it
could be found In a recent experience
of Mrs. J. N. I'attersou, of 1'hlhidflphia,
who with her husband is passing the
winter In Florida. Mrs I'atterson Is
an enthusiastic angler, and Is able to
show unexpected endurance consider
ing her Jietlte figure. One day last week
her husband made what was for him
an uuexpect dlygood t a ten better than
anything Mrs. I'atterson had as yet
been able to do. Of course, he bantered
his better half freely on her supposed
lack of ability with her rod and line.
Roused by his teasing, Mrs. Patterson
rose early the next morning, called her
boatman and rowed out on the Caloosa
hatchle Hlver, where tarpons are said
to abound. The morning was pleasant,
and there was every Indication that
the tarpons were hungry. In a very
short time one was hooked, ami then
began an exciting struggle. The tar
pon Is a very timid fish of the herring
kind, and his timidity, coupled with his
WHS. I'ATTKItsOX's WONDKHKt'I, CATCH.
great size, and strength, makes hlin a
desirable prey to the nugler. After
Mrs. Patterson had hooked her fish It
bsik twenty minutes of hard fighting
to tire him out. Then he was hauled
up alongside and gaffed by an enor
mous hook fastened to a pole. This Im
plement was handled by the boatman,
Mrs. Patterson relaxing the feminine
character of the proceedings far enough
to permit of his humble assistance.
The fish weighed 10" pounds and was
. feet H Inches In length.
Not content with this prize and de
termined to forever stop her husband's
good humored boasting about the catch
he had made, Mrs. Patterson baited her
hook again. An hour passed before she
got a second bite, but. It was a whop
per. The monster made heroic efforts
to break away, but there was a now
woman on the other end of the line
and all his struggles were unavailing.
She let the fish leap and roll and plunge
and dive as it would, the line was al
ways stretched out to the proper degree
if tantness. It todk sixteen minutes to
kill this fish, which was exactly six feet
long and weighed 120 pounds.
Mrs. Patterson was back in the hotel
In time to catch her husband and other
guests at breakfast. As may be sup
posed she did not fail to compare her
champion catch with that regarding
which he had boasted so much. Resi
dents of the nelghborlKMid declare that
Mrs. Patterson's basket was the big
gest ever landed bv a woman.
Proper Position for Walfcra.
The objivtlouablo method of encir
cling a young woman's waist while In
the act of waltzing has been subjected
to adverse criticism. The imsle which
now prevails Is graceful, modest, and
entirely consistent with propriety. To
acipilre the proper Misitlon the gentle
man's left hand should be placed Just
below the shoulder of the lady. The
body should Incline slightly, a in I he
should relax a little in order thai ar
tistic grace may be observed. He holds
his partner's hand In his right, while
his proficiency as a dancer and his good
taste tell best how to dispose of the
chispisj hands.
t'ood China Omeiit.
A cement for mending broken glnvi
or china Is made bv dissolving liuir mi
oi e of gum arable in a wineglassful
of Isillliig water ami adding enough
piaster or carts to make a thick paste.
Apply It with a brush to the edics of
the broken pans. Hold the pieces care
fully together until the cement hmi hr.
dened suftlclently for them to adhere.
If llie article to be mended Is broken In
several pieces, do not attempt to ce
ment a second piece herore the Hnrt
has thoroughly hardened.
Advice from Hetty Green,
A New York reporter a day or two
ago Interviewed Miss Hetty (irean,
"the richest woman in America," re
tarding the lest way to Invest small
sums of money. Mrs. (ircen said:
"I would advise any woman with
f.VIO at ber command to Invest It In real
estate. Hhe should buy the real estate
st auction on occasions when circum
stances have forced the sale. If she
will watch for such an opportunity it
will surely come, and she will find that
she can buy a parcel of land at one
third its appraised value. I regard real
estate Investment as the safest means
of Investing idle money. It does not
always bring a steady interest, but it is
less likely to depreciate lu value than
stocks, which are always somewhat
uncertain. A woman with tact and
ability will be on the alert to learn of a
mortgage alout to be foreclosed. In
such cases ahe should negotiate with
the owner of the property and give him
enough to clear his debt, thus saving
him the costs of a sale. Many a woman
has profited by an opportunity of this
kind. Of course, If a woman has $500
cash and wishes to speculate she may
branch out more broadly and take
greater risks, with the prospect of
greater returns. Rut she should l)cnr
In mind that real estate Is the collateral
to be preferred to all others."
The Conservative Woman.
Writing of "The Conservative Wom
an," In the Ladies' Home Journal,
Ruth Ashmore, considering her "as a
companion," pays her this pretty trib
ute: "She is the woman who with her
husband and her sons Is the best com
panion. .She surrounds herself, uncon
sciously, with a spiritual atmosphere
that Is a rest to the weary, especially to
the weary man. She Is not a bigot.
She Is lu sympathy with whatever
work the man may be doing; in many
ways she may help him with it, but
when he has thrown off the trammels
of labor he finds In her all the sweet
ness, all the rest and all the happiness
that can be given by a woman who sets
her life so that it Is 'like perfect music
unto perfect words.' "
Feta the Style for Itlsr Huts.
It has come. It Is In the concrete,
anil It Is making Itself felt. It may lead
to revolution and bloodshed; it may fill
many asylums for the hopelessly mud,
and may Increase the mortality from
suicide, but It Is here and It will stay.
Consuelo Vanderbllt, who Is the Duch
ess of Marlborough, devised It, and it is
named and hailed the "Marlborough
Hat." Consuelo has revived the F.Iiza
betlmn ruff, but her hat Is her piece de
resistance. It Is making a sensation
abroad, and Is a success because It Is
essentially one of the queer things the
scurrying years at the century's end
are flinging off. The thing Itself has a
broad brim and a round top. It may
be trimmed to suit any woman whose
genius Is diverted from usefulness In
the direction of millinery. Hut this
Marlborough hat Is of is'tunla velvet,
which covers the crown and brim In
soft, uneven folds. At the left are
grouped three stately black feathers,
and three shorter ones fall negligently
toward the front and repose on the
brim. At the back Is another cluster of
three that nestle close to the hair. A
giant chrysanthemum of the velvet Is
tucked on the biini on a bandeau. The
iMtchess has money enough to have all
the hats her heart craves for and her
heart craves for very many, and she
has them. Sometimes she likes-velvet
and sometimes felt, but the shape re
mains constant. She'll have no dalli
ance with the shape. It's got to be
Marlborough or nothing.
t'nlque Novelty for the Nursery.
An excellent Invention for the use of
mothers and nurses has been brought
out In Iondon In the shape of a bath
with a hammock hung In it, on which
the baby can comfortably rest while
It Is being washed. It Is really a cnpltnl
Invention, as the child can He at Its
ease while It is being washed, while for
timid children who object to Isdng put
Into water It will prove Invaluable, as
the hamnKK'k will allow them to be
thoroughly sponged without being Im
mersed. Hallo llmleraklrta with Lace 1 naet tlon
The new underskirt baa many charm
and the pretty silk creation decked
with lace Is a costly article, but never
theless a triumph of art. 811k under
sklrts are advancing In favor, and from
the plain silk to the richest aatln with
laco Insertions And ready demand. 811k
skirts for spring will supplant the
heavy, stiff, and weighty moreens re
cently revived.
NOTES ON EDUCATION.
MATTERS OF INTEREST TO PU
PIL AND TEACHER.
Eaaential Kequiaitee of a Good Teacher-
Music Usually Poorly Taught
Cigarettes In He boo a Propitiate
lesk Work-C ii uituble Desks.
What a Teacher -Needs.
I. Chuructcr. No one should assume
to teach who does not possess genuine
goodness. The uspirutious of the
teacher must be noble, his purposes
pure, his daily life a model. .So much
depends on what the teacher is, that
what bhe does is of secondary import
ance. The spirit of the teacher per
vades the school. Character in action
attending to the multifarious duties of
the ucbool room, is a very powerful
educational force. The teacher must
be the man or woman. They must be
synonymous. It is not enough to as
sume goodness. The article must be
there. It must inhere in the nature of
the teacher. The human soul exerts
its greatest influence through charac
ter. 'Jills, then, is the first great need
of the teacher.
II. Scholarship. While we empha
size character, yet this alone Is not
sufficient for the teacher's office. One
may be thoroughly good and upright,
and yet be a very stupid individual.
Goodness should be coupled with intel
ligence. The soul must energize as in
tellect. Scholarship lies at the foun
dation of one's success as a leader lu
the school-room. One cannot teach
what she does not know.
Her knowledge should be clear, posi
tive, and fresh. Through scholarship
more tliuu througU,ahy other channel
the teacher secures the confidence of
her pupils and wins their support in the
execution of her plans. It pays to make
dally preparation. Fresh knowledge
serves a two-fold purpose In class In
struction; it arouses interest and stim
ulates mental vigor. Some one has
aptly said, "Thorough preparation is
the foundation of all genius." My
teacher friend, If your school work does
not go to suit you, and you have been
laying the blame upon your pupils, it
might be that your trouble would dis
appear If you should Improve your
sholarshtp. A strong teacher may be
come stronger a good one may become
better. An Investment in knowledge
pays big dividends In satisfaction when
applied to the matter of leadership lu
a school. Scholarship Is also au Im
portant element In the government of
the school. It puts the teacher lu a
position to do her best. It gives free
dom. It multiplies eyes and ears. It
doubles the value of an hour. It
shortens the distance between u diffi
culty ami Its solution. The teacher
needs scholarship.
III. Animation. Nothing is so dispir
it Ing as a slow, sluggish, inert teacher.
Put such an Individual In charge of a
room full of bright, active boys and
girls I the result can easily be
guessed. Human nature can stand a
great deal, but childhood should not
be deprived of the inspiration that
conies from an active mind. The keen
eye, the quick movement, the apt word,
the ready sympathy, reveal the spirit
of the teacher. Fusslness is not anima
tion. It Is not even a poor substitute.
Animation is Intellect in action. It is
self asserting its best being. It Is en
thusiasm without egotism. "The teach
er needs animation."
IV. Cheerfulness. Life after all is
what we make it. Kong faces, sour dis
positions and bad tempers can usually
be traced back to selfishness. If we
should spend half the time In trying to
make other people happy that we now
spend in fault-finding and complaining,
we would no doubt double our own en
joyment. Good cheer In I he schoolroom
Is wholesome. The teacher should not
forget to smile. She should modulate
that careworn countenance, look up in
to the heaven's blue and thank God that
she has been called to bo a teacher.
Who can compute the value of the
cheerful, sunny nature that presides at
the teacher's desk day after day? We
cannot afford to be gloomy. It costs
too much. It results in loss of Influence.
It drives our pupils from us. On the
other hand, cheerfulness is au inspira
tion. "Laugh, and the world laughs with
you."
Smile, and you get a return message
of the same kind. Our pupils reflect
those things that are most prominent
In our ow n daily lives. "We need cheer
fulness." V, Ready Speech. Words are pow
erful things. The right word, at the
right time and In the light place, with
a soul behind It, has a wonderful po
tency for good. A teacher may talk
too much. She should guard against
this. Hut when lalk Is necessary the
tones of the voice should be pure, the
articulation should be distinct, the
modulation should Indicate Interest and
feeling, and there should be the proper
animation. Too few teachers appre
ciate the good that flows from a culti
vated voice. The expression of thought
either orally or lu written form, with
clearness and precision, is one element
of the good tencher. Select words with
nice discrimination. The sharp, keen
statement the thought that Is barbed
la the one that sticks. Many of the
running remarks of teachers In the
school room are valueless because they
are thoughtless. "We need readiness
lu thoughtful speech." We also need to
remember thnt "silence la golden."
VI. Heart Power. The love element
must be strong in the teacher. Her
affections must set strongly toward
those whom she would lienefit. The
power of making friends Is heart pow
er. You cannot do your liest work for
a pupil until you have his confidence
and good will until you have gained
his friendship. Time apent in forming
friendships la time put to good use.
Sympathy springs from the affection.
Through thla channel the teacher en
trra the atrongholda af the shut-In Uvea
of her pupils. y degrees they yield
themselves to be molded and guided by
her superior skill, through the love
manifested in kindly acts. The ele
ment of love is a big factor In the pri
mary teacher's success.
VII. There are various other neede
that might lie emphasized, such as pa
tience, self-forgetfulness, gentleness,
dally preparation, freedom from wor
ry; and the list might lie extended in
definitely, but to treat each separately
would prolong this paper Iteyond its
proper length. I will only add that the
growing teacher must recognize her
needs and reach out after that which
will supply.- Iowa Schools.
Muaic in the School.
To be able to govern a school, a
teacher must first able to govern
himself, and then to succeed in teaching
he must first know what to teach and
then how to teach It.
Perhaps of the many branches of
learning that are taught iu our schools
there Is none more poorly taught than
vocal mimic. It is not on ax-count of the
parents, however, as nearly all parents
like to have their children sing, and
there is nothing that places a teacher
higher hi the estimation of both parents
and pupils than devoting a few well
spent minutes each day In singing.
After the school has learned to sing
well they may be taught to march to
appropriate songs, and thus the two
hand in hand form one of the most use
ful and developing exercises taught in
a school.
Religious Instruction is not tolerated
in our schools; threfore you must reach
the finer sensibilities of man in some
other way. This way is singing. By it
you may enable men to elevate their
thoughts to higher and better planes lu
life.
Men in the earlier ages were first re
claimed from ferocity and brutality
by the beautiful melodies which arous
ed the feelings of love for their fellow
beings.
In these times of labor troubles and
the diversity of interests of different
parts of the country, it becomes a mat
ter of Importance to unite these con
flicting elements.
The boy of to-day becomes the citizen
of to-morrow; therefore inculcate these
principles in his mind by means of
patriotic songs, that teach him to be
loyal to his God, and to his country.
Shukspeare says:
"The man that hath no music in him
self Is fit for treasons, stratagems and
Hindis,"
And Carlyle says:
"The meaning of the song goes deep,"
which means that It purifies the heart,
refines and ennobles the feelings.
There is no better cultivation for the
human voice than singing. It teaches
the children to become independent in
the use of voice, and thus lays the
foundation for good readers. The rudi
ments and principles of music need to
be firmly fixed In the mind. Much of
this the children learn by Imitation,
such as beating time. They can readily
see that A, H, C, are called jyiti'li names;
that 1, 2. ,1, are called numeral names;
and do, ni, mi, are called syllable
names. This can be shown quite nicely
by the teacher's drawing the musical
staff upon the blackboard, locating the
letters and other signatures. ( f course,
where charts are available both labor
and time may be economized. Careful
attention needs to be paid to time and
expression In music. 'They go together,
and music becomes eloquent only when
the executant sees farther than the
notes and interprets the idea, just as
the gifted orator goes back of mere
words and gives ns thought.
Kvery schisil room has its dull days,
when the pupils become dull and rest
less. Let us then lay aside the books
and sing, and see how how soon it wlH
arouse Hie benumbed faculties of both
teacher and scholars, and bring back
the heavenly sunshine.
"There's music in the sighing of a reed;
There's music in the gushing of a rill;
There's music In all things, if men had
ears;
Their earth Is but an echo of the
spheres."
Educational News.
Self-Reliance. "
Insist on yourself; never Imitate.
Your own gift you can present every
moment with the cumulative force of a
whole life's cultivation; but of the
adopted talent of another yon have
only an extemporaneous, half-possession.
That which each can do best,
none but his Maker can teach him. No
man yet knows what it is, nor can. till
the person has exhibited It.
Where is the master who could have
taught Shakspeare? Where Is the mas
ter who could have Instructed Frank
lin, or Washington, or Bacon, or New
ton'.' Kvery great man is unique. The
Sclpionisni of Sciplo Is precisely that
part he could not borrow. If any
body will tell whom the great ma I
Imitates In the original crisis, when !n
performs a great act, I will tell him
who else than himself can teach him.
Shakspeare will never be made by the
study of Shakspeare. Do that which
Is assigned thee, and thou cnnsi not
hope too much.
There Is at this moment, there Is for
me an utterance bare and grand as the
colossal chisel of Phidias, br trowel of
Egyptians, or the pen of Moses, or
Dante, bill different from all these.
Not possibly will the soul all rich, all
eloquent, with thousand cloven tongue,
deign to repeat Itself; but If I can hear
what Ihese patriarchs say, surely 1 can
reply to them In the same pitch of voice,
for the ear and the tongue are two
organs of one nature. Dwell up there
lu the simple and noble regions of thy
life, obey thy heart, and thou shalt re
produce the Foreworld again. Ralph
Waldo Kmrrson,"
The practice of placing a rouniful of
pupils at desks of the same sire has
conduced to near-sightedness to an
alarming extent, and to spinal disor
ders aa well. Thla la the discovery or
physical training In the public school
of Boston,