GOWNS AND GOWNING
WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION
TO WHAT THEY WEAR.
OlIKM at Fancies Feminine,
FriTtloM, Ma) bap, and Yet Offered
la the Hope that the Beading Pro
Beatfal to Wearied Womankind.
Ooaaip from Gay Gotham,
la York eorreioudeuce:
1 1 LtS In sleCVe
are unsettled-a
glance at the five
fashionable cos
tumes shown here
with will convince
of that and there
are all sorts of
new Ideas on
view. Hut a little
while ago It seem
ed definitely net
tled that any ilse
at the shoulder
was out of date,
I but now the rule
Is o c c a s 1 ou.illy
broken by the
most swagger dresses. Then It I all
right to have the shoulder fitted clow,
and the puff, for, of course, there must
be a puff somewhere, appearing at the
houlder, but this Is a little advanced
as yet The prettier effect is the puff
that bangs softly, being drawn closely
to the outline of the round of the shoul
der. The sleeve called the watermelon,
though very ugly, Is all right It Is
very full at the annhole, though it does
not Interfere with the round of the
shoulder, and It extends In a big, baggy
puff to the wrifet. where it is caught In
to a narrow cuff. Sleeves of this pattern
are made with all the material tii.it
can be urged Into tli in. It Is said that
they "give height" There's more as
sertion than fact in that statement,
but this sleeve does show that the dress
Is lately designed, or at least made over
according to the newer ideas.
Another novel, in sleeves is that
sbown In the hist pictured costume.
These wide puffs are laid in deep folds
and end at the ellows. This dress Is
unusual, also, for novel treatment of
the princess cut. Its skirt Is wide,
deeply pleated, and shirred several
times In the waist in front. It opens
lnvisihily at the side, and both side
status are slashed and lap over, being
garnished w ith fancy buttons. A yoke
that covers only the shoulders and Is
alike in back and front, is of brown
cloth and is cut long enough to form
the pleated collar attachment. Iteige
cloth gives the renin inder. In this con
nection It is not amiss to mention a
modification of the princess dress that
Is universally becoming. It Is a gown
that has the becoming unbroken line
down the back, that Is furnished with
little hip pieces, and that In front ex
tends above the waist line in three
points that reach up over a loose lswlice
front of chiffon. Each point is set
A SWAOOEK JACK ET IS KUIK VIEW.
with a handsome button, and the effect
1s excellent.
Coat bodices are an Important factor
In current dress matters, and are of
fered In great variety. One of the
prettiest of them, the first to be accept
ed into anything like established favor,
atone that fits closely at back and sides
avnd that opens down the front to show
-a vest, shoulder-wide at the top and nar
rowing to a point just, below the waist
line. The edges of the coat as it turns
back are variously finished with revers.
widening into sailor collar effect at
abotilders and back, with facings of con.
treating color and material, with fall
of lce, etc. The vest Is tight and sc
Terely plain, or It is bagged anil ablaze
with spangles. The back of the coat
comes to a little point just below the
waist line, and fluted skirts that stop
Just back of the hips are set on. A high
stock collar matches the vest and usual
ly there Is a big bow tied in front that
either accentuates the severity of the
Test or else blends In with lt elabo
rateness. Sometimes a second set of
coat ekirta are added much longer than
the flrst and these are rather more flat
than the short ones and come all
tronnd. ending at the point of the vest
la' front. Sometimes they are cut away
toward the hack, again they are turned
back. Continental cost fashion, to show
lifting of contrasting color, or they may
haag straight. This long coat skirt
atfect mar be secured by a piece set on
tJ skirt hand Itaelf. Kneli a piece
)res coat effect to any bodice worn.
Hot unlike the short coat described
(ev la the type displayed In the next
I'jxoan. This Is the fouls XVI. sort,
f-ae la this Instance of Persian velvet.
H baa wld pleated basque and loose
f . er anted with large buttons
(1 to square revers, and It
V "1 ovar a bkmae front of white chlf-
rti with whit silk and ear
" :1 tr Ufft butterfly bow of the
. !.: rtSe&Sf collar ! of tbe
r I3t ta bak la of plate
velvet The sleeves bare lact raffles
at the wriu. Sleevelet fur Jacket
try utilized to supply aJd.tlonal
warmth to such a rls, and thus attir
ed the wearer seem lo have reached
the height of Jauntiness. The skirt thst
accompanies this jacket Is unusual,
being of hhmm green woolen stuff trim
med with lengthwise bands of fancy
galloon showing rich but sulnlued Per
sian effects.
Brocaded velvets are uiurh used for
these jackets, and she w ho is lucky
enough to have some old striped bro
cade will have it made up In a coat
with enormous sleeve. It front open
ing over a vest. The latter will lie of
lace over silk, and the Hk will be se
lected of a color found in tbe brocade
and contrasting with Irs dominant color.
Velvet coats of black, brown or any
rich dark color are as fashionable as
last winter. In some cac they are less
heavily trimmed with embroidery. In
dicating a reaction against the vogue
of simngies for street wear, but. on the
other hand, the most gorgeous examples
are found among the newest, Such a
one apis-ars In the third sketch. Worn
with a skirt of pomegranate silk that
has a band of sable about Its hem. its
black velvet is relieved by an inserted
shirred plastron of the cloth between
yoke and belt. A pocket flap is sewed
to each side of the baue, and tbey
and the fitted velvet fronts are srud-
ANOTHER SOKT IX FKO.XT VIKW.
ded with large rhlnestone buttons. The
novel revers are of the cloth and are
banded with wide gold spangle gal
loon, which also appears on sleeves,
yoke and belt.
The dainty effects that are attainable
with fichus lead to their being much
used In dress adornment, and explain
their occasional use in forms that are
especially unsulted to tbe wearers. The
folded sorts, particularly, are produc
tive of unsightly results on certain fig
ures. Women with short necks should
avoid them. Let such secure a fichu
effect by fitting flatly a curve of muslin
that shall lie around the shoulders
without fullness. On the edge of this
put all the ruflles that are wanted, that
the fluffy prettlness so much desired
may lie on the sleeves without taklujr
from the length of the throat and from
the slope of the shoulders. The
huge bow at the throat In the
next Illustration Is another adjunct
that should be relegated to the
sort of neck that the gushing novelist
styles "swau-like." With such it will
give a desirable finish to the jacket
effect below, which Is extremely dainty
of itself. This Jacket effect Is produced
by covering laek and sides of the bo
dice part of the dress with velvet edged
with rich gold galhsm. The velvet
cuffs are topped with wider bands of the
same galloon, and the plain velvet
Mock collar is trimmed with a velvet
edged with fur and fastened with Jew
eled buttons. Pearl-gray silk is the
fabric of the remainder, the gown be
ing princess and fastening beneath an
over-lapping of fur-edged velvet
In planning a new skirt "to go with
anything" just rememler that It must
le brocmle. To be sure, tbe day of the
plain skirt is not gone by, and those
now on hand will see popularity enough
to pay for themselves yet. Hut the
brocade and trimmed skirt Is the coin
lug thing, and when one puts money
Into new garments. It ought to be either
a big bargain In the passing thing, a
gosl bargain on the acceptably settled
thing, or else at regular price It must
1m- the coming thing. For remodeling
the plain colored skirt can be made
JACKET CrrKt'TS ADOK1) TO A PHINt'KSS
PKESS.
enough akin to the new by the addition
of all around flounces of some flowered
or varied stuff, or of lace or anything
to break up the monotony. Tben you
can pipe all tbe seams with something
bright, or ma little perpendicular ruf
fles up the seams; but ace again, for
tbe new akin that la belay plaanad for
lone wear get brocade, flowered, atrlped
or variegated stnff of some eort
KENTUCKY'S JACK CADE
Cade: "li ' brave, then, for your captain is brave and vows reformation.
There shall lie in Knglaud seven halfpenny loaves sold for a penny, the three
booped pot ehuil have ten hoops and I will make it felony to drink small beer.
All the realm shall be in common. " II King Henry VI, iv, 2.
SIXTEEN TO ONE PUT TO SLEEP.
Fh Ceoee of Free Mlver flaa I-ot Ground
Daring- the Last Year.
The election of Nov. 5 afforded tot
few opportunities to test the strength of
the free coinage people since "Coin at
School" became their Bible and "16 to
1" their watchword. In every case
where free silver was made the chief
issue the silverite have either been de
feated or have lost ground since last
year. So unmistakable is the result that
both of the old parties will surely drop
the silver isine in 1SH0, not only from
their national platform, bnt from many
of their state platforms, which hereto
fore have tmekled to the free sliver and
theup ni'iney udviietttes.
Perhaps the ls-st test was made in
Kentucky, which, for the fitt time in
its history, ha elerted a Ilcptibltcaii f' r
I soverni r. Bradley whs elected not be
I :aufo he was a H publican, but ln'atiwj
'he was a sound money man. Hardin
wag defeated berunse he insisted npou
making free silver the isme after Ins
party had nominated him on a sound
money platform. Kentucky is strongly
Democratic and would have elected
Hardin had he decided to cast his lot
with Carlisle and McCreary, instead of
with Blackborn. He now goes down
with Blackborn and the other cheap
money demagogues. Whether Heuator
Blackburn's successor is a Democrat or
i Republican he will not be a silverite.
The next best test was made in the
Eighteenth congressional district of Illi
nois, where the question of free silver
was presented sqnarely in the viewa of
the opposing candidates. Hadley, the
Republican candidate," won by a big
majority in a strongly Democratic dis
trict because his opponent stood for free
coinage and was helped, or rather "boo
ilooed." by the soothes of Bland and
ether leading silverites. The lesson will
be a vh.f - me one for the Illiuoir
Democrat w lat spring went off half
ooekd in faor of free coinage at 16
to 1.
Nebraska. Ohio, Mississippi and other
tinier. gi no consolation to Bland,
Bryan, Blackonrn cr the silver mine
owning senators. Sixteen to 1 is put to
sleep for i generation. May its Rip Van
Winkle slumber be as peaceful as ba
been that of greenbackirm during tkt,
past generation.
The fioe silver bwindle will never
again seriously disturb our finances or
cause another panic. But unfortunately
much positive work remains to be done
before we get rid of fiat money in all
its forms and secure a sound and elastic
currency for our commercial interests.
Iateraet 1 the Return on Capital.
Behind the agitation for 60 ce silver
dollars or no cent paper dollar there is
a strong Populist sentiment which fa
vors the loaning of money by tbe govern
ment to the farmers at 2 per cent inter
est. Tbe free coinage advocates find
their strongest support among those who
believe that interest is nsnry and should
be abolished or reduced to tbe mere cost
of issoing paper currency.
What these Popnlists do not see is tbe
fact that interest is not really paid for the
nse of money, but for the nse of capital.
Tbe money loaned merely serves to oon
ey the capital from its owner to the
borrower. No anti-interest farmer would
rent his farm for 2 per cent a year. Yet
under the system of government loans
vhich he proposes any one who wished
to bay a farm could borrow the money
at that rate of interest ; so no one would
ever pay more rent than 2 per cent In
terest on the valne of the property. The
Populist who thinks that tbe capital rep
resented by his farm is worth more than
9 per cent a year should be willing to
allow tbe owners of other forms of capi
tal such interest as it is worth to any
one who chooses to borrow it
Italaaed Toatk.
My 10-year-old boy," said the fat
is feeling protty sore at him-
self."
"Why?" asked tbe lean man with tbe
yellow Teat.
"He Lt Inst at tbe age wben tbe ble
tory of tbe James boys and tbe like ap
peal to hie tawbarovt Imagination, and
yeeterday be bought a book in a yellow
paper eorer entitled 'The Crime of
1171 " Indiaaapoli J soma L
PROMISED TOO MUCH.
l
INTERNATIONAL VALUES.
No One Matlon f an Maintain the Relative
Value of o JnVtaU.
(Juection. Can the l'uiw-4 States
alone maintain bimetallism?
Answer. No.
Question. Why not?
Answer. Because no one nation in
the world can fix and maintain interna
tional values, and certainly none can fix
and indefinitely maintain the relative
valnes of any two metals. If we put ar
bitrary relative valuta on gold and sil
ver, the one we valued below the price
fined by supply and demand in the
world's markets would seek other coun
tries, where its values and purchasing
power would be greater, while the one
i' valued above the market pritw would
reiiii,iii with in- and tscomethe standard
of value by which we conduct our busi
ness. (nestioc. re you in favor of the
independent free coinage of silver by
the United States?
Answer. No; for the reason that
that would infallibly mean silver mon
ometallism. Question. Why so?
Answer. Because gold is worth 82
times as much as silver in the markets
of tbe world today. In other words, on
ounce of gold is worth as mnch as 82
ounces of silver, and the United Htates
cannot change that relative valuation
and permanently maintain such change
by simply passing a law that an ounce
of gold shall be worth 16 ounces of sil
ver and no more, and as one can obtain
in any of the markets of the world to
day more than 800 grains of standard
silver for 28 8-10 grains of standard
gold our passing a free coinage law that
any one from any part of the world who
brings 412'j grains of standard silver
to our mint shall receive $1, which, by
law, shall pass current the same as $1
containing 25 8 10 grains of standard
gold, would instantly cause gold to 1
withdrawn from circulation, and 412J-J
grains of silver would thus become the
standard by which the worth of our dol
lar would be measured. "Merchant"
in Charlotte (N. C. ) Observer.
I THE REAL CREDITOR CLASS.
! ,
Iaborrr Are ReginalDf to Learn Some
! Truth About Money.
The attorneys of the eilver mining in
' terest have counted large!' on the labor
vote. Sime mouths ago th'-re was some
reason for this. But the agitation of the
subject lias wrought a change. Informa
tion has been so d.ffused that the stupid
falsehoods ol such men as Harvey are no
longer current. The men who work for
wages are awakening to the fact that
they are the great creditor class of the
country. Not to mention the $2,-
000,000,000 which they have in the
banks a nam far in excess of the na
tional debt they are obliged to work
on a ciedit. Whether paid by the week,
month or quarter, they are equally cred
itors for the full amount of their wages.
Tbey get no money until after they have
earned it.
They are beginning, to perceive that
it is to their interest to get their wages
in the best money that is to be had.
The state of wages in silver countries,
which has been injudiciously exploited
by silver men that are employers of la
bor, has contributed to open the eyes of
out toilers. Free coinage would cut in
two the purchasing power of their pres
ent wages, and they know from experi
ence how haid a fight they would have
to get them raised. Louisville Courier
Journal. Marrlaav aa Demonetisation.
Senator Stewart's calamity wail to
tbe effect that the demonetization of
silver had resulted in a decline and fall
of matrimony is punctured by Clerk Bird
of the marriage license bureau, who
shows that business in the connubial
! line is booming. The senator has got his
cart before his hoise. It is matrimony
! that is demohetixing the people. Phil-
1 utolnliia Raxnrri
All The Will C'lrealate.
The people have in their pockets all
tbe stiver that will circulate, and we
ha-e, counted as cash silver in the
J trfesury, $611, 000,000, or Dearly 16,000
,t4u. That is tbe way we have "demon
tttsed" silver Marat Haletead.
S ' I a' 1 .
it
Goad I'ointe, Motb.
Good str.t-ts make good cities. Good
roii. Is make good farms.
Attack the Cause,
Tax the road destroying narrow tires.
It that which caus the damage be
made to repair lL
The Kt-ul Need.
The Times Herald of Chicago offered
a prize of e.-..mu for the best "horseless"
cartage. The offer is all well enough
as far as It goes, but It Is lu order for
somebody to offer a similar prize for
the discovery of a way to Improve
roads to aeiiiiimolate the "horseless"
carriage. The roads In this country at
this time are not suitable fr a carriage
that Is not drawn by horses. New
York Mercury.
The goisl roads convention held at At
lanta may Is- execied to result In awa
kening a new interest lu the sulij-'ct
throughout the country.
True It Is that the movenieti has go:
ten past the point where It will le al
lowed to slumber, but a great meeting
like the one alsivp referred to iuiit give
It a new iiiipcttiji.
Brains are the one quality nwwl nee 1
ed lu road-making, ami this requisite
is now being pretty generally diffused
through the country.
(en. Hoy Stone. President of the na
tional awsisiation. will sn appoint one
g'ssl man for each State It memls'r of
the national executive committee,
chssli)g these members with reference
to their zeal In this matter as well as
their ability and Information.
Kvery cimmiuiil'ty now possesses some
one who has enough Interest In the wel
fare of his community to make him a
valuable aid In forwarding the gissl
roads work.
Steps will be taken to extend the or
ganization to every State in the I'nlon
and Interest the people of nil walk In
life. The Government printing olllce
will Issue circulars and other printed
matter bitirlng on this subject, and the
publication of good roans matter will
be si-cured as far ss possible, In the
newspapers of the country.
The farmers, some of whom have
been a little bit slow about "getting in
line" with the gcsd roads movement,
are now putting gissl thought Into ac
tive work.
The fogli-s who stand in the way of
progress had better get out of the way
of the baud wagon.
Paying Tor the Honor.
In China It Is believed that people
should pay according to their means.
The one burlier In Peking who under
stands the foreign mode of balr-diess-Ing
charges a foreign minister half a
dollar, a secretary of legation twenty
five cents, and an unofficial foreigner
ten cents. Natives "pay alout half a
cent for the same service. So says Mr.
llolfomhe. In his book, "The Real Chi
naman," and he adds this bit of r
sonal experience;
In passing through Japan I had oc
casion to employ 8 Chinese chiropodist
residing there. His charges, so be de
clared, were five cents to his fellow
Chlnese, ten cents to an ordinary Jap
anese, and half a dollar to all oilier
foreigners. In the course of the con
versation, while he was at work, he
said:
"I bear that our Chinese minister
came to this hotel to-day. Do you
know whom be came to sec?"
"Mh, yes," said 1; "he came U call on
me."
"Then you must 1h an official," said
the Chinaman.
I modestly admitted such to Is- the
fact, anil then conversation drifted to
other subjects. When the man's Inlsir
were concluded he demanded a dollar,
In the face of bis own statement that
bis regular charge lo all foreigners, ex
cepting Japanese, was fifty cents; and
be enforced bis claim by this argument:
"Stoscy that China minister come see
you, you bioug all same he. You biong
same he. you tnakey pay one dollar all
same. That biong ploer."
Defoe's Descendant la a Cook.
The New York Sun has received a
letter from Daniel liefoe VI.. the great-
f retit-grandsuii of the Daniel Defoe who
wrote the Immortal tale of "Kohlnson
Crusoe," saying that be Is now out of
a ts-rth In' Kugland and Is anxious to
emigrate to America. Almost exactly
two years ago (Oct. 3. 18!) the British
bark Prlorhlll dropped anchor In the
upper bay, and when a Sun reporter
lsiarded her he found that one of the
most liiisirtiint members of its crew
that Is to say. the cook was none other
than a lineal descendant In the male
Hue of the great Daniel Defoe. Al
though serving as cook, the young man
was really an apprentice, with six
mouths more lo serve l-fore he would
be out of his time; but the captain had
"shipped a steward wlu was no good,"
to quote young Defoe's words, "and so
I'm trying II." It Is worth recording,
too, that the ship's male voluntarily
testified of Defoe as a cook, "a right
good fist at la be Is."
Cook Defoe was at that time It) years
old. Unlike bla famous ancestor, who
waa swarthy, be la of light complexion
and baa blue eyea. In telling of bla
youth be eald:
"I was born In Chelmsford and lived
there until I received a presentation to
the old Blue, oat Scbool In IudoQ.
i bis was given to me on account of uiy
name by Sir John Whltaker, Lord
Mayor of 1-ondon. It Is a famous
school, founded -JU) years ago, and Is
attended by many of the bloody youuf
swells of Knglaud. I staid there nve
years; It didn't oet tue a ceut and a
tine tltpe 1 bad there. When I left I
was apprenticed to a grocery shop and
staid there a month, but couldn't stand
It, wo I went to sea. Wben my time Is
up I will go ashore and stay there.
There Is no strain of sailor Mood in my
family that I know of. My grandfather
was a sea captain, but be was the otdy
one that followed the sea except my
self." When he was seen here he was a
well-mannered youth, entirely devoid of
sailor swaggger, and so imslest about
his ancestry that only his so
cial chum In all the crew of the
Prlorhlll knew that be bad descended
from the great writer whose story of
"Koblnson Crusoe" they bad all rend.
Arrested Tor Laughing.
A serious-looking, middle-aged man,
who gave bis name as Daniel Mackey,
No. .'till North loth street, laughed so
uproariously early yesterday morning,
at Sth and Market streets, that a crowd
gathered, says the Philadelphia Press.
When Policeman Sunders came along
and heard Mm key's laugh be ordered
him to go home.
"Ha, ha, bar laughed the man.
"If you snicker again " threaten
ed Sotiders, and again the laugh jwal
ed out. In a rage Souders hs-ki-d the
man up, ami when Mackey was led 1w
fore Magistrate South several hours
later the magistrate said:
"What's your name?"
"Hn. ha, ha."' laughed Mackey.
"What do you mean, sir?"
"Ha. ha, ha!" was the answer.
By a desperate effort Mackey recov
ered coiiiMure enough to explain that
lie was the victim of a physical ailment
ami that now ami then he could not
ki-cp from laughing. Physicians bttd
tn-ated him, but to no purpose.
"It's a queer story." said the magis
trate, thoughtfully, "but you are dls
churged." Poitery 1H.OOO Years Old.
In digging out the colossal statue of
Ha meses II. nine feet and four Inches
of Nile miid had to !e removed lH-fore
tbe platform was reached. It Is known
that this platform was laid lu the year
l.'U'.l It. c., when Itami-tes was srlll
living. Therefore three and one-half
Inches of accumulated Nile mud repre
sents the lapse ut a century, lt being
known that .i.'.lMi years have passed
since rhe platform was put down, cin
der that platform was found thirty
feet more of Nile inild, before the orig
inal sandy soil w as reached, hence 10.
ikmi years must have elapsed from the
time of the Nile's first overflow down
to the time of Itnmews II. iiic curi
ous part of the story Is this: Pottery and
fragments of the same were found on
the original sandy soil thirty feet under
the base of the statue, whic h shows
that the Kgyptlans understood the pot
ter's art not less than 13ssi years ago.
He Cried "Man Overboard."
The presence of mind of A certain
well-known actor was always remark
able, but whs never put to so severe a
test as ou the following otrnslnn. re
lated by the Amusing Journal. While
acting a part of a pirate chief he was
Ising conveyed In a vessel across he
stage with his baud of brigands on deck
Is-slde him.
One of the siier. w hose duty lt was
to work the waves under large sheets
of gauze, was so unfortunate as to put
his head through the gauze, and to ap
pear standing in the middle of the
mimic sett before the full view of the
audience.
The iii-tor on the vessel, without los
ing his presence of mind, called oui:
"A man overboard.'" ami the aston
ished super was hauled iisn deck by
the pi rales amid the applause of the
s-ctators. who imagined It was u part
of the play.
('sea lor Old Corks.
Corks are throw u a wny in great quan
tities, and very few eople think that
there Is any value attached to that ma
terial after It has served its purpose
oin-e ns stopper of a lstte. Neverthe
less It has liecome one of the most val
uable com)oueiits of a city's refuse,
(rent quantities of used corks tire now
used again In the manufacture of Insu
lating covers of steam pls-s ami boil
ers, of Ice Itoxes and Ice bouses and oth
er iMilnts to lie protected from the in
fluence of bent. Powdered cork Is very
useful for tilling In horse collars, and
tbe very latest application of this ma
terial Is the tilling in of pneumatic
tires with cork shavings. Mats for
bath rooms are made of cork exclusive
ly, ami It also goea Into the comprisi
tlon of linoleum. Cheap life preservers
are now tilled exclusively wjth bottle
stoppers, cut Into little pieces.
Illoonier llU-ydlng- in llnsalav.
The pmfect of police of St. Peters
burg has Just granted permission to a
lady to ride a bicycle lu the st recta of
the city. This Is the flrst occasion on
which such a privilege haa been ac
corded. Before getting the permlation
Uie lady had to satisfy the authorities
that she could ride a bicycle with safe
ty. Found In Tombs.
Hundreds of boxes of gold, allver,
Ivory, alabaster, onyx, marble and oth
er sulistances have been recovered from
tbe Egyptian tombs. When the dead
were burled rbese boxes were filled
with perfume and placed In the tomba.
Many still retain tbe odor of tbe per
fumee with wblcb they were once filled.
Plaed fur HetUag cm Cricket.
At Hheffletd, Knglaud, recently, two
bmb were flnef I7S each, or two moo flu'
Imprisonment, for berCaj at Halkun
Cricket Club aporta,