, ' ' 4. M. '
'The Sioux County Journal
VOLUME VII.
HAKKISON, NEBRASKA, THURSDAY, JUNE 0, 1895.
NUMBER 40. yG'
i 1
,1
WORN BY THE WOMEN
SOME OF THE VERY LATEST
IDEAS IN DRESS.
Elaborate Garniture of Many Klna
May Be Displayed on the S-wroer
Bodice Varioua Styles in .Taney
Walsta Bloused, Capped and Pleated.
Faahlon's Latest Fancies.
New York Correspondence:
' V that summer
Ih near at hand
the upier half of
you may he tin-used
with the simple
y plainness that tai
lor ruts bring, or
the other extreme
may be safely
reached and the
bodice made the
medium for dis
playing very elab
orate garnitures
of many kinds. It
Is always necessary to a good summer
ffect that such trimmings should be of
the lightest sorts, so that altogether
they cauuot by the slightest possibili
ty constitute a suggestion of lidded
weight or warmth. By using care In
their application It Is easily possible
to have ns much of trimming as there
Is of the garment trimmed.
Of new bodices that are originally
planned with sufficient ornamentation
to get them off daintily, the picture tie
side the Initial shows an especially
dressy model. Made of white cloth
and trimmed with dark silk, it ha a
Test of white chiffon, with collar to
match, and each side Is finished with
three revers. The lowest one forms a
sailor collar In back. Is of white stuff
piped with silk, and the others com
bine both fabrics. The licit first en
circles the waist and Hum one pud Is
carried up to the bust to llnish In a
four looped bow. Cuff and collar
''!
BI.OI SKI1, CAPPKIl AMI n.KATP.n.
trimming Is of Hie silk, and a pair of
silk straps appears on the front breadth
of the skirt, which Is of the white
goods and Is otherwise plain. It does
not hint at unfashlotiableness for this
bodice to say that rever effects are not
as nlcntlful as they were several
months ago, for though they are cor
rect enough, the craw? for bag fronts
Las pushed them from their former
conspicuous place. That stronghold of
the rever, t he eton Jacket, renin ins In
favor for simple outing suits, but the
aklrt this year Is Jauntily short, sets
out In regular folds at sides and back,
and the shirt waist Is Invariably
bloused. Though the outing snlt of to
day Is about what It was last year, It
I Just these exceptions that make It
Imperative to have H uew one.
On the Moused fronts already In high
favor, a new trick Is asserting Itself
fashionably and consists In fitting the
shoulder tightly with a piece that Is
more cap than epaulette. In the earlier
Instances of the use of this device the
rap was allowed to extend well below
the shoulder and, as that necessitated
pushing the sleeve puff downward,
women who bad not very fine shoulders
objected to the shape. Both these fea
turesthe bag front and the shoulder
SF.ItVIC F.AIII.E Pl.KAT POlt MAKlMft OVP.H.
caps are shown. In the artist's second
offering, nnd tho latter fashion Is here
expressed In t way that does not
change the profile of the sleeve puffs.
White accordion pleated crepe Is used
Id this model, which Is made over a
fitted lining and hangs at the side. The
draiied crepe belt hooks with a bow in
back and the yoke epaulettes and cuffs
are made of plain while silk richly em
broidered with a net of large beads
and fringe to match.
In the fancy waist that follows this
In the illustrations, the loosigiess of
front Is attained by a central boxpleat
which is by all odds the most common
method. The fact that It can be easily
applied to last year's waists to make
them over to current styles does not
prevent Its appearing on countless new
garments, among which are many of
costly stuffs, exquisitely made. This
one Is of apricot glace silk, its collar
and belt of strawberry velours, and the
epaulettes and straps over the shoul
ders are white Clunny lace. The sleeves
here are without ornamentation, ex-
A ('HANOI! OF VKSTS poSHIHI.K.
cept for the epaulettes, but. they end lit
the elbow, and this very rule of elbow
length leads to sleeves tint are little
else than bits of lace, ribbon and fix
In's. Dainty examples of this sort are
no more than deep frills of lace set
high on the top of the shoulder and
gathered Into a great lw of ribbon.
Such a sleeve gives grace and finish to
the arm, and the contour of the shoul
der Is not Interfered with.
It surely Is a pity that such a pretty
waist as the next pictured one must be
hidden at any time by an outer gar
ment Soon the season will "ome when
wraps may be discarded altogether
except for outdoor evening uses, and at
such times they will not net as conceal
ers of the beautiful. In the light of day,
or In the glare of artificial llitht this
waist can assert itself, and hiding it
under a bushel when till about Is dark
ness does no harm. It Is sketched In
red and green changeable taffeta, the
back being fitted and of bias material,
while the full fronts open over n baggy
vest of coffee-colored linen embroider
ed In Turkish designs with vari-coloreil
silks. I'lalti silk may be substituted for
this embroidered linen, or a variety of
vests made available. Tin? stock collar
Is of taffeta made separately.
,The great popularity of the bag front
Is clearly due to the ease with which it
Is applied to any dress. A mere box
pleat of material to match, or of some-
thing that shall lend elaboration, can be
put on the old dress and suffices to
make It presentable. In these cir
cumstances she Is a wise woman
who, having a handsome figure, does
not succumb entirely to the bag front.
There Is muh distinction now In a
closely fitted garment anil though she
may have the new gown cut full, she
should not discard her close fitted rigs
tH hastily. Then, as to the new
waist, It Is possible to at le to the
demand for an overhanging front and
still preserve to a large extent the lines
of the figure. The concluding Illustra
tion portrays a model that does this
nicely. Matle here of blue striped silk,
Its front Is laid In three box-pleats flint
are ornamented with several rows of
tiny gold sequins. The plain standing
collar fastens with one button and the
Inner seams of the cuffs show a row
of spangles. The back riMiuilns plain
and a belt of the silk comes around the
waist. This waist will be very dressy
when worn with a black serge or black
satin godet skirt, and its front fullness
Is us slight as It cau be made In this
cut'
Copyright, lMKi.
Student .Several of my friends arc
coming to dine here, so I want a Ids'
table. Mine Host Just look at th.'
one, sir. Fifteen persons could sleej
quite comfortably umbo- It Fllesend
Illaetter.
I 1
A COMPKOMISK. '
TOPICS FOR FARMERS
DEPARTMENT PREPARED FOR
OUR RURAL FRIENDS.
BarfaceCultl vatlon for Corn Will Oi ve
More and 1 arller Grain -No ProBt in
Home Mixing of Fertiliiera How to
1'rune I'm It Trees.
Corn Culture.
Surface cultivation for corn Is In the
air, and the iiuinfuacturers of corn
working tools are working along that
Hue, and the company that will give
us the best Ib the oue we want to pat
ronize. I am ho fully satisfied that sur
face cultivation will give us more and
earlier corn, says S. FavM In the Prai
rie Farmer, that I believe the time will
soon be here when the Intelligent farm
er will no more allow the corn roots to
be broken If he can help It than he
would allow the leg of his calf or pig
to be broken. My plan for planting the
corn Is this: First fit the ground nicely,
have it firm anil free from lumps, the
rows only one way. This will save all
checking and marking. Would prefer
It out In drills, kernels ten inches
apart In this way one can be plow
ing, fitting and planting at the same 1
time (if he has teams enough); If It Is
a small farmer, with only one team, he
can fit any isirt of the piece and plant
it, and then lit the rest In that way
part of the corn will be growing and
ready for the cultivator as soon as one
can get to It I am In favor of a free
use of the common harrow on the field
corn. Commence In a day or two after
the planting is done and harrow till the
corn Is four to six Inches high, but do
not commence In the morning after the
corn Is up, till the dew Is off, for the
corn will break easily when It Is wet.
Itut after the sun is on it awhile, It
gets tougher and will stand a good deal
of knocking around without breaking.
He sure and go over the whole field
before the corn Is up and level It down,
and then the after harrowing will be
less likely to cover any of the corn.
Io not be scared if it does look a little
bud when you first go over it I mean
when the corn is up; unless there Is a
lump or a sod on It It will straighten
up ami take care of Itself, and the har
row will break any crust that may be
formed on the, ground that you cannot
break with any kind of cultivator, and,
besides, you can kill weeds much faster
than with any other tool, and kill them,
too, before they start much. So keep
the fine tooth harrow going as long as
you can, and It will do you good.
Home Mlln of Fertilisers.
Nothing cati.be gained by the pur
chase of mineral fertilizers and mixing
them by hand. All the large establish
ments where fertilizers are made have
facilities nnd machinery for grinding
nnd mixing the fertilizers, so that the
work can be done much more cheaply
than It Is possible to do It by hand. The
competition among dealers Insures a
low price for all commercial fertilizers.
Thirty years ago, when phosphate be
gan to be used In the Northern States,
the price by the ton was $05, aud In
small amounts It sold at 5 cents per
pound, or at the rate of $100 per ton.
We think t tin t at this time Southern
farmers got their phosphate somewhat
cheaper than this. They bought by the
carload for growing cotton, anil paid as
high ns $10 per ton. Competition has
reduced the price. Owing to strict
State InsptH'tion of fertilizers there Is
less cheating than there was then. All
fertilisers have their guaranteed-analy-sls
marked In each package, and they
are almost Invariably what they are
represented to be.
Pruning Frnlt Trees.
In pruning fruit trees attention has
to be given to the manner In which the
particular kind bears Its fruit The
cherry and the pear lioth bear their
fruit on short spurs, and In trimming,
therefore, the effort should le to pro
duce a large quantity of healthy fruit
spurs. Summer pruning docs this ad
mirably. The branches that we want
to remain as leading shoots should not
be touched: but the weaker ones may
be pinched back, about midsummer,
about one ftsit or two-thirds of their
growth. This will Induce the swelling
of a Dumber of buds that will produce
flowers Instead of branches, and In this
way, fruit spurs cun be obtained on
comparatively young trees; but with
such kinds as the grape vine, the fruit
Is Itorne on the branches of last year's
growth, so the effort should be to throw
all the vigor possible Into those grow
ing branches that we want to bear fruit
the next season. To do this we pinch
buck the shoots that we do not want
to extend, or even pull these weak
shoots out altogether. A little pruning
Is then necessary, .In the winter, to
shorten back these strong, bearing
canes, or b prune out altogether the
weaker ones that we check by pinching
back during the growing season.
Cultivating the Small Grulna.
English farmers have learned that
there Is great advantage In spring cul
tivation of winter wheat. But the Eng
llsli method of hoeing the grain by
hand labor Is much too expensive to Ik)
afforded at present wheat prices. What
Is quite as good as hand hoeing, nnd
much less expensive, Is thoroughly har
rowing the surface In spring before
sowing grass and clover seeds. Kolllng
should follow the harrowing. With
spring grain the rolling ought to come
first aud compact the soil around the
young plant It is a mistake to roll as
soon as the seed is sown, as Is often
done. If rains follow after this com
pacting of the surface the young plants
do not easily brek through It and are
weakened. Kolllng the surface after
the grain Is up operates differently. It
breaks any crust that may have formed,
and presses the soil closely about the
roots. Then In a day or two run tho
smoothing harrow over the rolled sur
face, aud It will be as good as running
the cultivator through young corn to
Increase Its growth. After the grain
la up heavy rains will not compact the
surface soil, for the force of the rain
drops Is broken by the leaves, and no
crust over the surface will be formed.
If clover or grass seed Is gown with
spring grain It should be after the roll
ing and cultivating, else the small seeds
will be covered too deeply.
' 'Irrigating the Garden.
The subject of Irrigation of the gar
den Is one of present Interest The
garden Is the most productive part of
the farm, but quite often the product
Is greatly reduce by a few dry days
during which young plants are destroy
ed for the want of water, or the older
ones are so weakened at the blossom
ing time that they fall to set fruit That
most important crop, the strawberry,
especially suffers from the want of wa
ter, and It has been found that some
simple method of Irrigation has tripled
the average yield, with an equivalent
Improvement In the quality of the fruit
It has been showu by scientific experi
ments that the yield of any crop Is In
prortlon to the quantity of water
passing through the plants. This Is not
only reasonable, but easily demonstra
ble, as the only food available to plant
Is that dissolved in water, and if the
water Is deficient In supply the plant
Is starved to the extent of the defi
ciency, while the contrary applies
equally. So that a short supply of wa
ter In the soil Is equivalent to a short
ening of the supply of food, and the
most fertile soil cannot yield more than
a meager crop. It Is the same as If the
soil were deficient In fertility. It is
sunlly proper to Irrigate most garden
truck at the blossoming period, espe
cially If the soil Is dry aud the weather
warm, anil It la again essential to wa
ter when the fruit Is set Denver Field
and Farm.
Illack Mlnorcas.
This breed of poultry Is rapidly grow
ing In favor In this progressive age of
poultry culture, as their good qualities
are better known. They are of Span
ish origin, and have been bred for many
years In England. They are the largest
nonsittlng breed In existence, and ex
cel as egg producers, both In number
and size of the eggs, says Ohio Farmer.
They combine two oluts that render
them especially desirable, xiz.: utility
and beauty. They have large single
combs, red face with pure white ear
lobes, lustrous black plumage, nnd are
proud and majestic.
The American standard weight for
Black Minorca cocks is eight pounds,
and for hens six antl a-half pounds.
They are very hardy, mature early, pul
lets begin to lay when live months old,
and continue through the winter. Their
ability to fill the egg basket is recog
nized not only by the fancier, but by
the practical farmer.
Bruises and Wounds of Trees.
Nothing Is better for covering the
bruises on trees than oil shellac with,
perhaps, a little flower of sulphur and
a few drops of carbolic acid, which last
Ingredient should lie used very sparing
ly. The mixture can be applied with
a paint brush. For the exclusion of the
air from wounds, It Is suggested thnt a
grafting wax, made of four parts of
rosin, two parts of beeswax and one of
tallow, melted together, poured Into
water and Immediately worked and
made up Into half-pound rolls, Is con
venient to have ready for use. Held
In the hands so that it Is softened, a
small lump of It may be spread over
a wound, and It will remain for some
time and keep out alr'and germs of
disease1. If the wound Is large the ap
plication may need to be repeated.
Hural New-Yorker.
Feeding Whole Grain to Horse.
As horses grow older anil their teeth
an' poorer they bolt their grain more j
greedily and do not attempt to chew It I
as hey should. Whole grain fed thus
does little good. (Jrnln for horses whose
teeth are poor ought always to be
ground antl given with cut hay. Kven
when younger horses are fed whole
grain some finely-chopped hay should
be cut nnd wet to mix with It. This
will make them eat more slowly and
they will chew their food better. But
for horses of any age feeding whole
grain Is wasteful however It may be
given. A great deal will pass through
them and give them very little nutri
ment Hose Growlntj.
A rose grower says: "I would never
mix stable manure with soil for roses.
It may be used when thoroughly decom
posed ns a top dressing, but In the soil
It Is bad. I have seeu btsls In which It
was used so full of white fungus they
were fairly matted together. Sheen
manure I consider one of the very best
fertilizers we have, either In liquid torin
or mixed with so'.l at the time of plant
ing. It should not be added to the
compost heap, for too much of It In one
place la sure death to all vegetable lift"
NOTES ON EDUCATION.
MATTERS OF INTEREST TO PU
PIL AND TEACHER.
What Is to Be Done with the Gradu
ate rM unificent Gifts of Wealthy
Men to Columbia College Evils of
Overcrowding in the Public Schools.
After Graduation, What?
Commencement day with its white
.gowns, its berlLiboueu essay, auu its
touching sense of the high aspirations
to be reached after in life, is a charm
ing occasion. But after graduation,
what then?
Boast as much as you will of the pro
gress of the girl, she is rather a help
less being still; and however pleasing
helplessness in woman may be, In poe
try, In actual life it loses its charms and
assumes features which conspire to
anything but the happiest lot In the
world. lu this world more than two-
thirds of the women are wage-workers;
and what does their meed of dol
lars amount to? A majority of them
average less than $1 per day, aud $10
to $15 per week marks the outside limit
of the most favored few In number,
unsurpassed in ability. Women may
be self-supporting, but very few, com
paratively shaking, have reached the
point where they look beyond subsist
ence to a comfortable competency, as
men reckon such matters, or to getting
rich.
True enough, the field of woman's
Industries are broadening. In business
circles, lu cities at least there is very
little distinction nowadays between
what Is properly woman's work anil
man's work, except lu the nil-import
ant mutter of pay. Co Into any large
manufactory, even where every pro
duct is distinctively connected with
man's labor, somewhere about the
building, with needle or brush, tend
ing a machine, keeping btsks, or man
ipulating a typewriter, you will find a
woman at work. On the other hand,
start, any new Industry, no matter how
specially adapted to wonians nimble
lingers or keen eyesight or insight, If
there is "money lu It." man is in the
field anil comes Into immediate compe
tition with woman. The question or a
living in this world, for man or woman
either, Involves a good deal of thought
and study more of each with every
year that goes by.
With the higher class of Industries
to which woman aspires, relations are
much the same as with the lower.
Teaching Is overcrowded. Journalism
Is uncertain, and not an easy profes
sion to get started in. Literature, with
out the highest order of talent, is hope
less. Lecturing Is past Its prime, nnd
public reading Is going the same way.
Iu music, vocal or Instrumental, ex
cept for the one rarely gifted In a hun
dred thousand, there is an absolute
glut In the market. To be a third-rate
musician Is to fail outright. In paint
ing the same.
Taken collectively, the difference be
tween' men und women and it is an In
finite difference Is comprehended In
one Idea organization. A nation, a
State, a city, a church, the public
sehool system, any modern institution
whatever, Is a corporation of men, in
which women are disconnected units.
Business firms and corporations are or
ganizations of men with rarely a wom
an partner among them.
Women have done much, but It Is as
well not to applaud their successes too
loudly till they have done more. Let
them pay to a business education in
business principles the same thorough
attention they now pay to the require
ments of society superfluities; the same
careful thought and study they bestow
upon their evening costumes and a
thousand and one other fancies which
prove but a passing pleasure to so
many of themselves, antl a vain delu
sion antl a snare to as many men. Let
them by systematic study and training
fit themselves for the varied occupa
tions they can enter upon without do
lug violence to their physical organi
zation. This course will bring Its im
mediate result; for men will be com
pelled then to seek a living in those oc
cupations, abundant enough, from
which women are debarred, but which
they themselves avoid because of the
manual labor, the heat of the sun, and
various other discomforts to be en
countered. Surely no Injustice will be
done, for woman must live; antl If not
favored by fortune with a plenteous
provision of this world's goods, she
must struggle for her bread In those
fields open to all the human race the
ranks of the employes. But what slit-
needs to complete success In the Ileitis
open to her, Is faith In herself and a
business courage.
At the same time the accomplish
ments of n perfect wife should be at
tallied. For at marriage and what
girl does not calculate upon It these
will become her stock In trade, and
furnish abundant claim for release
from any cares In the transaction of
business affairs.
The world owes no man a living
Nor does It any woman. As before In
tlmateil, poetic conceptions aud actual.
life experiences, are two different
things. And In the hurry, bustle, and
st lire for the dollars to make life's path
ester, the world sees no distinction In
the nature of dress of the being who re
quires them.
Gifts to a College.
President Seth Low, of Columbia
College, New York, recently made a
regal gift to that institution. The trus
tees were in session, considering ways
and means to push forward work of .
construction on the uew college build
ings, when President Low announced
his niimificlent offer of $l,0W,Ko, to
lie used iu the erection of the library
building. The donor desired the build
ing to be a memorial to his father,
Abiel Abbott Low, "a merchant who
taught his sou to value the things for
which Columbia College stands."
The conditions attached to the gift
are threefold. It Is President Low's
desire, lu the first place, that the gift
shall be the means of exteuiling col
lege privileges to some of the boys and
girls of his native city, Brooklyn, there
by maintaining a high standard of effi
ciency ln both the public ami private
schools of that city. Accordingly twelve
Brooklyn scholarships for boys will be
established in Columbia and twelve
Brooklyn scholarships for girls lu Bar
nard College. The scholarships are to
lie awarded by competition, three a
year, beginning with the autumn of
LSlMi, each scholarship to be held for th
full college course of four years.
Following President Ijow's gift came
one of $."!00,oi0 from Chairman William
C. Schermerhoru, of the Board of Trus
tees, lie said that he made himself re
sponsible for the national science build
ing, or for any other building or part
of a building to cost that amount F.
Augustus Scherinerhorn, one of the
trustees, presented to the college the
Townseud Library of National, State
and Biographical War Records.
Crowded Schools and Health.
Henry Dwight Chapin, of New York,
n specialist In diseases of children, lias
written an article on the subject
"Crowded Schools as Promoters of Dis
ease." Some of his recommendations
regarding sanitary school construction
are valuable and timely. He says: "So
public school building should be con
structed that will accommodate more
than ) or 1,000 children, several build
lugs being put up, if necessary, to
house larger numbers. Expe
rience shows that the health of children
lu our large schools can be best con
served by allowing fifteen square feet
of floor space, 250 cubic feet of air
space, and at least 1,800 cubic feet of
fresh air to each pupil per hour.
No better rough incubator of disease
germs could be devised than a small,
closed, unventilated wardrobe on a
stormy day, packed with the wet aud
soiled outer garments of children com
ing from all sorts and kinds of homes.
The life conditions of thou
sands of poor children in tenement
houses are bad enough. It is at least
the duty of our cities to see to it that
their bad environment is not continued
in the schools. What is needed Is a
more coustunt and regular sanitary
oversight of the schools by experts in
hygiene."
A Sensible School Board.
The Stevens Point (Wis.) School
Board at a regular meeting adopted a
decided Innovation lu prescribing the
dress of graduates of the high school.
The commissioners passed a resolution
to the effect that the girls who gradu
ated shall appear on commencement
day In dresses of "plain white muslin,"
and the young men in "plain neat
suits." The board considered this ac
tion necessary In view of the fact that
well-to-do parents constantly vie with
one auotlier to see wmcn can array
their daughters In the most attractive.
commencement day finery.
Educational Notes.
Eight schools averaging $40,000 each
are under construction ln Buffalo.
The report of the Board of Education
of Kansas City, Mo., shows an enroll
ment of 41,500 In the county during
the past year. Actual expenses for the
ensuing year are estimated at $224,000.
Prof. Nicholas Murray Butler, of Co
lumbia College, chief editor of the Edu
cational Uevlew, has been chosen to
preside over the meeting of the Na
tional Educational Association that is
to meet in Denver.
W. C. Dohm, of Princeton, 00, recent
ly deceased, was a uoted athlete, and
left numerous troplries. Including twenty-five
heavy gold medals, eight silver
cups antl a large number of smaller
prizes. Ills widow lias presented the
entire collection to the college.
The school savings bank system In
troduced In a number of school districts
of Pennsylvania as an experiment iu
education six years ago, has ceased in
Its functions as an experiment anil be
come, according to the Philadelphia
Times, an excellent feature of the com
mon curriculum, not so much as a
study, but as a training Into methods of
economy, self-denial, and as a provis
ion for the future. The most notable
example Is lu Chester and the contigu
ous districts of South Chester, Upland,
Etltlystone, and Marcus Hook. The
April report shows that the pupils lu
the schools of Chester have the hand
some sum of $.'13,075 to their credit, and
those of South Chester 0,858. The ag
gregate amount for the five sections is
$42,251. As an object lesson In finance
lu which loys and girls have a practi
cal. Individual share this Is a very
tractive example.
lasxj
V
