.If i
The Sioux County Journal
VOLUME VII.
TIARKISOX, NEBRASKA, THURSDAY, MAY 1895.
NUMBER 37.
GOWNS FORTH E BRIDE
M4RROR SILK AND RIOH SATIN
HOLD THE UIAD.
Me MpllniM la tke Wedding Tail
nd It Can B Want or Not Travel
Imm DreUM that Do Not Advertlae
fca Bride.
Daaia Paahion'e Vendee.
Haw Tork eorraapondauoei
HE month of
roees and wed
ding 1i near, and
many a prospect
ive bride U now
wrestling with bar
dressmaker over
the tronsssau
dreasea. These
must be had and
of the latent fash
Ions, even If their
wearer tlroa her
self eo mtii'h In
the process of their
making a a not to
'become them
when they are
done. The costumes of this depletion
should lie of great assistance to the
ever-busy planner, for here are bridal
costume, traveling rig, house gown and
afternoon dress, with a low-cut get-up
beside the Initial. Thin dopHn't consti
tute a very olaliorate outfit of drowned,
but the purpose of each one Is dls
tinct ami others that might bo added
to the wardrobe would be In respect
to the uses for which they were In
tended, duplicate of some of these.
Mirror silk and rich satin hold the
lead for wedding gowns. The round
skirt with a long train added at the
back la the cut, and In the caae of an
; i :
MltSRED FOB Tng CEREMOXT.
laborate wedding where train hearers
are part of Uie pageant thin cut la ex
fremely desirable. Usually the foot of
tte gown la softened by a festooning of
lace. A round bodice, very short on the
hips and slightly pointed in front is
esteemed the most becoming, and all
the bodices of thin season are softly
draped with lace In front, thus render
ing the satin and white more becoming.
In many caws the neck is cut out a
little and filled In with a tiny chemi
sette of delicate tulle through which the
Bean tint shows, a soft fullness of tulle
Betting closely under the cliln and
.bout the throat. The veil Is "real
lace" If possible, and by all means an
"heirloom," If one can be had. It Is not
worn over the face, but arranged on the
head to give dignity and beeomliig
newa. The ends float dowu over the
train.
If the traveling dress be not the next
thing In Importance to the wedding
rig, It is the next item of the trousseau
needed, and the next one pictured here.
At It Indicates, the patient bride has
revolted against the simple gray gown
that Is such a give-away, and her trav
eling dress Is planned along new lines.
Above all It must be stunning, and In
hang, fit and style Irreproachable. Ev
erything like sentimental romance Is
avoided, and there must be dash and
el) .'sssesslnn In that gown If there
isn't any In the rest of the trousseau.
This la a departure that sulfa modest
IOnes, for such a traveling gown be
eernea without change a very accepta
yoixjwoga advertises ths iiidi.
ble street dress. Quite the moat ees
reet choice of goods la a big soft En
glish tweed plaid. The skirt Is made
with all lines matched diagonally and
not a seem to be traced except with a
microscope. A plaid of green, tobacco
brown, dark blue, and a lighting up of
cream Is the best choice. The bodice
shown here has a little sleeveless Jack
et of leather-colored broadcloth, seem
ingly worn over a plaid under-bodlce,
but really all In one, for no ordinary
Jacket could ever get over thoae sleeves.
Time was when tbe very nlceet
brides stopping at a hotel were privi
leged to appear in the public dining
room in their trousseau wrapper. Of
two oowtrs IK ON s.
course, it is blood curdling to merely
think of this now, yet It seems a pity
not to be able to show publicly the
lovelv notions that are called morning
and boudoir gowns. The sorts of these
are legion, but the one chosen for Illus
tration Is new and Ingeniously made In
two parts. When the bride wears
both parts, she appears, as in the pic
ture, arrnyed In a billowing, organ
piping robe of gray sslta, with below-the-shoulder-puff
sleeves that arc held
In place by bands of blue silk ribbon
drawn over the round of the shoulder
and finishing with soft rosettes. Rich
laoe follows the rise of each orgau
pipe, the gown sweeps the floor at
back and sides, flts closely at the back,
hangs free at the side, and Is open en
tirely In front A simple gown of pale
gray soft silk, belted simply at the
waist shows beneath. A yoke of Ince
discloses the soft pink skin and a high
ribbon collar makes the face seem
youthful. The Inside of the over gown
Is llnod with turquoise blue satin, so
there Is a lovely combination of soft
colors.
For the morning or afternoon trous
seau gown nothing can be daintier than
one of the many aecordeon pleated mull
confections that are offered. One of
the prettiest of these was of smoke
gray mull pleated and worn over tur
quoise blue, and Is portrayed in the ae-
j mam,
PIIWJ
I'T.KATF.K AND RK-ltiniloSKn.
cotnpanylng picture. Its skirt whs full
and flared at the foot, and the bodice
was of the popular loose blouse pat
tern, bound In at the waist under the
"overhang" with a folded belt of mirror-blue
satin. Long ends of ribbon
with big bows for finish gave relief to
the severity of the skirt, and a pair of
folded silk sash pieces crossed the bust,
fastening with bows on the shoulders.
Thlsaceordeon-pleated material comes
by the yard, and since it sells 'pulled
out" and It takes three yards plain to
uiake one yard pleated, a woman may
feel her financial standing sustained,
If she have a couple of these gowns,
even If she doesn't wear diamonds.
Diamonds she doesn't wear, for the
rule now Is that a bride must wear no
Jewels, even on state occasions. Her
wedding ring, the solitaire engagement
ring, and the necessary watch are all
that are In strict correctness allowed.
Borne folks sre saying that this permits
the young husband to "put up" the
whole cargo of wedding gift Jewelry
to help him keep up his establishment,
but that can't be so, because "bride
mornings," when the young wife re
ceives ber girl friends and shows all
her presents, are quite 0e rage, to make
np for tbe taboo placed on the display
of present at the wedding.
Copyright, 108.
A really nice girl Is not always bains
"shocked" by the young nn.
Mm
mm
YANKEC SHOES IN ENGLAND.
Popalar aad the F.nalUk Aro
van Taalaa Ut Habbara.
"The suggestion that American boot
and shoe manufacturers should take
advantage wf the present trouble lu the
Eofllsb boot trade to establish a mar
ket there reiulnda iue uf the receut no
table Influence uf American ideas ou
the British shoe business of which 1
learned last summer," e&ld a traveler
to a New York Hun luau. "Iu this, as
In many other iua tiers, there has been
In Kugland lately an adoption of Amer
ican models and American ideas that
has brought about sutue radical changes
In fact, a complete reversal of type.
"English footwear has been for many
generations inoat distinctively peculiar
characteristically Kugllsh. The shows
of men und women alike have beon of
the strongest, heaviest pattern, and the
standard of excellence was that the
thicker the sole the better tbe boot
Half an inch wus about the ordinary
thlckiiLnH for tbe sole of a man's shoe
and few women wore walking shoes
with soles less than a quarter of an
inch thick.
"Rubbers were practically unknown
and this was the prluclpul reason for
the thick soles. They wero intended to
keep out the wet Many devices were
used to attach the tongue to the uppers
in such a wuy us to make the shoe
waterproof even if submerged quite to
the top. Then the soles and heels were
studded thickly with steel ualls, and
In extra giod shoes the welt extended
half an Inch or so all around the. sole.
As a consequencH, the average winter
slide of the average Englishman or En
glishwoman was very much like a
heavy hunting-boot This Is largely
the case to-day, but a marked change
has set In. The? shoes are certainly
waterpnsif and proof agnlnst almost
any kind of weather or wear, but their
clumsiness and ugliness when worn In
to the office or house, as they of course
have to be, Is very apparent
"Two winters ago, whou Great Brit
ain was visited l)y a real old fashioned
winter, with plenty of snow and slush,
some gonitis imported a lot of Ameri
can 'arctic' overshoes and put. them on
sale In London and the chief provincial
towns under the name of 'American
snow boots.' Their success was mark
ed. The English people, especially the
women, were quick to see tho advant
age and comfort In being able to wfir
a light summer-weight shoe for the
house and office, with the protection
outdoors of the snow boots,- and the
cumbrous heavy winter shoes fell Into
disfavor. Then the following summer
a lot of American light rubber over
shoes, for ordinary rainy-weather wear,
were put on the market, and were an
equal success. Previously one oidy saw
rubbers, giilm-hes the English cnll
them, once in a very great while, and
one might wulk about London for a
month of rainy days and never see a
single pair. The people depended on
their heavy shoes for protection from
wet feet.
"I could not find, however, that the
American footholds the half rubbers
so popular with ladies here at home for
damp rla.vs. mid occasions when It Is
wet tinder foot without actual rain
were known at all. I have this last
winter sent some over to English
friends, who admired the footholds my
wife wore while there Inst summer,
and they are delighted with them.
"The Introduction of the arctics and
ordinary rubbers emancipated the En
glish people from the clumsy, tiring,
thlck-soled shoes so long worn, and as
a consequence there has been a nota
ble tendency to reduce the thickness of
the soles, to make the uppers of more
pliable material, and generally to
adopt the American model In shoes.
There has also been some effort made
In the last two or three years to Intro
duce. American shoes In the English
market, and they are on sale at some of
the best shoe stores lu London. The
head salesman In pne such store told
me that the American style of shoe was
well liked, too, and that the model was
being adopted to a large extent In
their own factory.
"A good Illustration whs afforded to
me while I was talking to this sales
man. An Engllsman came In looking
for a pair of heavy shoes. He wanted
a pair of tho kind he had always worn,
strong tops and enormous soles, with a
half-inch welt lie expected to pay a
good, round price for them HO or 40
shillings he said. Hut there wasn't a
pair of shoes in the store that suited
him, although he declared he had al
ways bought his shoes there wnen he
came to Ixmdon every year or so. 'We
are not making that kind of shoe now,'
the salesman explained. 'We have little
call for them. People want a light
shoe nowadays, something like tills,'
and he showed nn American shoe. The
man ended by Uiklug a llgut pair for
trial.
"Of course the price of shoes will
come down as they come to be made of
about half the amount of material. A
guinea or thirty shillngs has been the
usual price paid for good shoes of the
heavy, thick soled kind. This Is equal
to $3 to 97 a big price In England. My
wife bought an excellent pair of Amer
ican shoes, of New Tork make, at a
swell Regent street store last autumn
for It. The same shoe would doubt
less cost more here In New York, but
difference In rents and wages might
account for that I think there Is a good
market fur American shs-s in Great
Britain, especially Just now."
lituo and Mouse.
A mouse was put in the cage of a lion
to teat whether, as the old fables assert
ed, there was a natural affection be
tween them. The experiment demon
strates that each was so afraid of the
other that no affection could exist be
tween them. The lion saw the mouse
before be was fairly through the bars,
and was after him Instantly.
Away went the little fellow, scurry
ing across the floor and squeaking In
fright Wluo be had gone about ten
feet the lion sprang, lighting a little In
front of him. The mouse turned and
the Hon sprang again. This was re
peated several times, the mouse trav
ersing a shorter distance after each
spring uf tho lion.
Finally the mouse stood still, squeal
ing and trembling. The Hon sUxk! over
him, studying him with Interest Pres
ently he shot out his big paw and
brought It down directly ou the mouse,
but so gently that the mouse wus not
Injured" In the least, though held fast
botwen die claws.
Then the lion pluyed with him, now
lifting his uw and letting the mouse
run a few inches, and then stopping
him again as before. Suddenly the
mouse changed his tactics, and instead
of running when the Hon lifted his paw
sprang inlo the air straight at the
lion's head.
The Hon, terrified, gave a great leap
back, striking the bars with all hit
weight. Then he opened his Jaws and
roared and roared again, while the
little uiouso, still squealing, made hie
escupe. nf tho two the Hon was thu
more frightened.
Nearly Ituii Down.
An old French soldier, Colonel t
Oonnevllie, In writing the story of hla
military career, describes one curlout
adventure, which hud nothing warlike
about It, but in which for a moment he
was in danger of his life. During one
of his campaigns he had stopped for
the night at a house In which lived a
lady and her daughter.
It was early May, and in tho evening,
after dinner, I went out with tbe ladies
for a walk. We took a road leading
out of the village between stone walls
about four feet In hHght. Here, at a
place where the road made a sudden
turn, so that we could not. see what lay
before ns, I heard all at once a strange
noise. It might have been produced
by a tempest but there was not a
breath of air stirring.
At that moment my two companions,
with sit'iis of extreme terror, clambered
over the wall, and I Instinctively fol
lowed I hem. We were hardly on tho
other side before a dense drove of pigs,
at least a hundred and fifty feet long,
came round the turn with such fury
that, no obstacle could have stopped
them.
If we had not been ont of the road
we should have been knocked down,
and the whole drove would have gone
over us. The women told me that we
should have been picked tip dead, or at
least so mutilated as to be good, for
nothing.
The swine, It appeared, were driven
out to a wood in the morning and at
night were driven back to tho village
and fed. The prospect of the trough
made them so eager that they entered
the village like an avalanche.
Furls Vs. Ships.
One of the facts brought Into strong
prominence In connection with the re
cent operations at Wei-IIal-Wel is the
helplessness of ships against well-constructed
forts, admirably located, and
armed with disappearing guns. The
Chinese ships and mainland forts and
artillery, which, after fallinglnto.Iapan
ese possession, co-operated with the
fleet In bombarding the Insular de
fenses, never succeeded In touching
tlii-so forts once. They remained to
the end absolutely unimpaired by the
storm of Iron which was directed
against iliem. Similar immunity was
enjoyed even by an ordinarily con
structed fort on the Liukung. The Jap
anese ships did no harm whatever,
while, on the other hand, the Chinese
gunners in the forts, though not con
spicuous for their skill, succeeded In
hitting and more or less seriously dam
aging no lees than seven of the Japan
ese ships. The fact Is, the Incompara
bly greater vulnerability of a ship
handicaps It seriously In a fight wlih a
fort A do7.en shells from a ship's guns
may exhaust their energy upon the
massive parapets of a fort, whereas
one shot from the heavy guns of the
latter can not fall to Inflict cruel In
Jury upon a ship If It strikes her. The
question of a moving and stationary
target seems to be of secondary Im
portance. Polite. Dismissals.
William Itean Howells' father, who
emigrated to Ohio half a century and
more ago, used this formula to get rid
of an Intrusive visitor who had worn
out his weeome. He would be called
out on some business, and would say
to the guest: "I anppose you will not
be here when I return, so I wish you
good-by!" This was not bad, except In
comparison with the superb stratagem
ascribed to Oerrlt Rmlth In such emer
genciesas that he used to say In his
family prayer, after breakfast: "May
the Lord also bless Brother Jones, who
leaves us on tho ten o'clock train this
morning."
VINEGAR.
How the Article of Commerce Is Made
Bo Quickly.
No farm cellar In the apple region,
says the Chicago Record, is quite com
plete without its vinegar barrel.
Each fall, as soon as the sweet cider
comes in from the presses, a part of
it is funneled Into a dusty barrel that
occupies a place In the corner of the
room. It is given every opportunity
to turn "bard" and then sour as sour
as the sourest vinegar. Sometimes the
housewife hurries the operation by add
ing a little "mother" the thick, vel
vety growth, a product of fermentation,
which sometimes rises In her cruets and
Jugs. Hy the next spring or summer,
if conditions have been favorable, the
cider has become vinegar and is ready
for ue with the early lettuce.
But that Is a slow process and only
small quantities are made at a time.
If the city epicurean depended on
such a source of supply he would have
to take his salads without the acid ele
ment. For tills reason great manufac
tories have sprung up, and many of
theui weekly make more vinegar than
all the farmers of Michigan or any
of the other apple. States make In a
whole year.
Tbe visitor Is warned of his approach
to a vinegar factory while yet a long
way off. There Is a pungent odor not
unlike that of loug-conliued smoke and
the atmosphere for blocks in every
direction fairly reeks with it. On ap
proaching nearer it grows more and
more acid, until Inside of the building
one has the rather novel sensation of
tasting the air. It Is almost equal to
eating pickles.
Vinegar Is of two or three different
kinds. The most expensive Is made
from red wine and Is of a deep purple
color. It Is very strong in acid so
strong, Indeed, that It fairly bites the
tougue. It costs about 40 cents a gal
lon. Then there Is the elder vinegar
of farm fame and it Is the most popular
of any for general household use. It re
tails at from 12 to 16 cenU a gallon,
and It may be said In passing that some
disreputable concerns make a variety
of "cider" vinegar that is wholly guilt
less of apples. Great quantities of
white-wine vinegar are also made, usu
ally from corn and rye. 'It Is perfectly
colorless, very sharp to the taste and
Is usually used for making pickles and
condiments of various kinds.
The process of manufacturing this
white-wine vinegar Is most Interesting.
In the first place the manager starts
out Just as if he were going to make
genuine corn whisky, but when he gets
part way through with the work he
suddenly switches off and the product
is vinegar. The corn and rye come
to tho side of the factory In cars and
are elevated to the top floor, where they
go Into big bins. In the morning when
the superintendent gives the word a
workman pulls the side from a spout
that leads down through four stories
and Into the top of the cooler, a huge
Iron boiler holding 100 bushels. The
corn comes ratting down and It Is soon
boiling away under a steam pressure
of sixty pounds. At the end of two
hours it. has been reduced to mash
a well-known whisky term and Is quite
toothsome enough to tempt any cow
home from a June pasture.
It Is now blown through a pipe lead
ing upstairs to the groat mash-tubs
holding 8,000 gallons each. Here about
fifty bushels of malt, fresh from the
maltsters, and ground to a pulp In a
little mill on the next floor. Is dumped
In and two awkward paddles begin to
revolve, churning the mass until It
looks like the surface of a geyser.
The cooking of the corn separated
the sturch and the addition of the malt,
together with a temperature of 14S de
grees, turns the starch into sugar. At
this period of the process the mash has
a really sugary smell, like molasses
candy on the back of the kitchen stove.
After being beaten and churned for
three or four hours cold water It turn
ed into a coil of pipes In the bottom
of the huge tub to cool the nia.sh. In
the meantime some workmen have
been preparing the yeast in a little
room at one side. Malt and rye are
boiled together In a copper-lined kettle
holding 'J00 gallons, aud, a little of the
yeast ferment being added, the plant
begins to grow. When the process has
gone far enough Just the right propor
tion of the yeast Is taken and "planted"
In the mush-tub, where without more
ado It begins to make Itself felt
Now the mash is allowed to slide
down through a pipe to the fermenting
tanks, where It sizzles and bubbles
away for seventy-two hours, hard at
work fermenting. The alcoholic spir
its are being slowly extracted by the
"working" of the sugar. Thus far the
process has beeu almost Identical with
whlsky-niakliig.
A lnis.v chugging link pump now sends
tie mush upstairs to the still real
whtsky stills, except In the use of
''worms" or colls of pipe for collectlug
and condensing the alcoholic spirits. A
"worm" would be used In vinegar
manufacture, bin Uncle Sum Is afraid
that some day a very well-meaning
charge of com might by some mistake
turn to vhlsky Instead of vinegar.
Uncle Sam always looks after such
things In a prompt and business-like
way.
The alcohol Is forced out of the nuisli
and Into fhe still by means of steam,
which rapidly vaporize It. The pipe
In the stilt Is surrounded by cold water.
which quickly condenses the alcohol
and collects it below In a receptacle.
All the rest of the mash "slops," as 1
is known to the vinegar man and the
whisky man is carried off to one side,
where it is stored up ready to sell to
the stock-raiser for cattle feed. It con
tains all the corn except the alco hollo
parts, and it therefore makes very rich
food.
The spirits are now pumped to ttbl
generators, the only distinctive vine
gar-making devices in the whole proo
ess. These consist of tall, cylindrical
tanks made of white wood and bound
with iron hoops. They extend from
floor to celling, with an appliance oa
top for allowing the alcohol to trickle
in and a cock at the bottom through
which the vinegar may be drawn off.
Several floors are covered with thee
generators as thick as they can stand
and the visitor who goes among them
Is compelled to sneeze in deference te
the pronounced acidity of the atmos
phere. The tanks inside are filled from top
to bottom with beach shavings, nothing
more. When the alcohol drips In at the
top it spreads over the shavings where
the air has ready acct?ss to it The
oxygen pounces uKn it and changes
it without more ado into acetic acid
or vinegar, in which condition it runs
out at tho cock aud into a trough that
carries It down to the next floor into
a huge storage tank. The. shavings
in the generators are merely for the
purpose of providing a great amount of
surface over which the spirits must
flow.
After having seasoned for a time
in the tanks the vinegar is pumped
out into barrels, labeled and sent all
over the country to the pickle manu
facturers. Every bushel of corn makes
about four gallons of whlte-wlne vino
gar, which sells all the way from 7 to
10 cents a gallon.
Tbe cider used for vinegar comee
almost entirely from Michigan, Ohio
and New York, enough being secured
every fall to last a whole year. The
barrels are corded up in endless rows
a whole, great room filled full, with
only little alleyways piercing it and
allowed to stand until the cider Is
quite hard enough to make an old cider
drinker dizzy-headed. When at last it
has sufficiently fermented It is mn over
the shavings In the generator and be
comes a light-brown cider vinegar. It
is now run into old whisky barrels and
allowed to stand as long as possible.
The whisky barrels assist greatly la
the ripen lng-proces8, which so much
Improves vinegar. Only a few firms In
the country have this method of mak
ing their product more palatable.
Red-wine vinegar is made Just like
cider vinegar, a shade greater care
being taken, perhaps, to keep it clean
and pure. The wine used comes large
ly from California and Ohio, which of
lato years has been making a good
deal of It The factory can easily turn
out eighty barrels a day and where one
considers that a teaspoonful at a meal
Is a very large average for the ordinary
adult it will be seen how far such a
quantity will go. The prices are now
so cheap that the farmer can hardly
afford to make vinegar even for home
consumption. He can sell the cider te
better advantage.
The Kiddle of the Cid.
A mediaeval condottler in the serr
ice of the Moslem, when he was fight
ing to fill his own coffers with perfect
Impartiality against Moor or Christian,
banished as a traitor by his Costillaa
sovereign, and constantly leading the
forces of the Infidel against Aragon,
against Catalonia, and even against
Castile, he has become the national
hero of Spain.
Warring aginst the Moslem of Va
lencia, whom he pitilessly despoiled,
with the aid of the Moslem of Sara
gossa, whose cause he cynically betray
ed, while he yet owned a nominal al
legiance to Alfonso of Castile, whose
territories he was pitilessly ravaging;
retaining conquered Valencia for his
personal and private advantage, In des
pite of Moslem and Christian kings, bei
has become the type of Christian loy-!
alty and Christian chivalry In Europe,
Avaricious, faithless, cruel aud bold,
a true soldier of fortune, the Cid still
maintains a reputation which is one of
the enigmas of history. History of
Spaln-U. R. Burke.
The First Wills.
Wills were at first oral, as were also
gifts of lands, and were only morally
binding ou the survivors. Orlgen and
other fathers of the early church cred
ited Noah with having made a will, and
in the fourth century tho Bishop of
Brescia declared a 11 those heretical who
denied Noah's division of the world to
his three sous by will. The oldest
known wills are those of Egypt Both
oral and written wills not Infrequently
contained Imprecations on those who
should neglect them.
The earliest written wll In existence
Is that of Sennacherib, which wasfound
In the Uoyal Library of Kanyunjlk.
There is a great sameness about our
own royal wills. They mainly relate
to beds, bedding, clothes, personal or
naments, gold and silver cups, and
payments for masses, and are general
ly as prosaic as one could contrive.
The Westminster Review.
When the elocutionists get too old to
look nice saying the "Oobilns Will Get
You," they can take the part of Little
Kva In a.ii "Uncle Tom" show. j.
i 'it
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