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ilIE Damascus to Mecca railroad has
many remarkable features which dUttn
tlnguish it from other lines, ltd prin
cipal object is to provide a means lor
faithlul Moslems to perform their pil
grimage to the holy places of Mecca and
Medina with a greater degree of com
fort than formerly.
Its inception is due to the initiative of
the prebtut sultan, and the enthusiasm
create by its first announcement brought in subscrip
tions from the faithlul In all parts of tho Islamic world. A
Bpeciar stamp tax forms a solid annual contribution to the
expenses, somewhat less evanescent than other contribu
tions may irove to be.
Geographically, tho line has provided a means of travel
In a country with a fascination of scenery quite peculiar to
Itself and unlike any other part of the world. Instead or
traversing populous countries and great cities, it seems to
delight in passing through immense solitudes through a
country peopled mainly by the spirits of tho "Arabian
Nights," where little surprise would be occasioned in lind
lng a roc's egg in some inhospitable, rocky valley, or in
seeing a genie floating in a stream of thin vapor out of
a magic bottle.
Tho line com-
tnejices at the tra
ditional parting
place of the great
pilgrimage, tho la
waubet Allah, or
Gate of Allah, In
Damascus. For the
first few miles the
lino traverses the
Ilauran, running
parallel to the
French Ilauran
railroad. From an
cient times this
district has been
an extremely rich
one, and tho Ro
mans used It as a
granary.
The deep, narrow
ravines of the Yar
muk, the ancient
Hieroymax, which
the line follows In
Its descent to the
Jordan, present
everal difficulties
of engineering suc
cessfully overcome.
Largo numbers of
Italian, Montene
grin, Croatian,
Greek, and other
European work
men had to be em
ployed on the diffi
cult rock cuttings,
tunnels, and via
ducts of this sec
tion. Tho Jordan val
ley, where the lino
crosses It, Is S00
feet below Mediter
ranean level; but
the difficulties of
construction cease
when the Yarmuk
valley has been
luccessfully tra
versed, and the as
cent to tho sea is
made by easy gra
dients. South of Deraa
the main line soon
leaves the richer
corn land and , en-
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supplied (bdly from tho train.
At Mrdain-Sallh the valley wlileni
a little, anil hero are found som
rock-cut tombs similar to those at Po
tra, but far fewer and less ornate
Traces of a town exist, but there h
nothing now visible except tho usua
fort of the pilgrim. Here again, us
well as at Tebuk, the site would seem
a favorable one for trying artesian
wells, but no attempts have beei
made to provo their success or other
wise.
Tho permanent way hus been Into
oi 'Vf'v v, Vn'.-x ..'. yj, ,'v
a. O A t
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PJ- THAW LEfWWQ DAMASCUS
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urn mmj0
HQUT1KA PJLLARS JH ARAB J A
ters an upland, undulating country, the land of
Hashan, producing abundant grazing In tho
spring. At that season troops of gazelle roam
about the country, and the Hedouin, with vast
herds of camels, are found close to tho line.
The landscape gets bleaker as the train
moves south. The mountains of Moan are
passed some distance to the west, and the
track is laid far out in the desert, where the
valleys are wide and easy to cross, and before
they deepen Into narrow ravines as they enter
the mountains.
The old pilgrim route Is followed very close
ly throughout, and at the stations tho stone
cisterns and reservoirs, to provide a supply of
water to the pilgrims are noticed. Water be
comes very scarce; In a few places wells have
been dug Hnd water is raised by wind-pumps.
For some reason boring for artesian wells
does not seem to have been tried. Ono at
tempt was made In rocky ground, and when
tho drills broko no further attempts wore
made.
As the line approaches Maan an extremely
desolate country is traversed. I-ow ranges ap
pear to the east, apparently of sandstone or
limestone formation, although the ground is
strewn thickly with black fragments of obsi
dian along some sections of the line. The ra
vines now trend eastward, to loso themselves
in a wide depression in that direction, as
shown In tho recent maps of this country by
Prof. Alois Musll. Maan Is the first point since
Amman where water Is procurable In any
quantity, either from springs In the small town
Itself or from wells at the railroad station.
The place is a large railroad center, with sev
eral stone buildings for officials, a small shop
for temporary repairs, a hospital, and uito a
good hotel a substantial building, rather amnll
In size. Tha small town, containing some good
itono and mud houses, Is not visible from the
railroad, but lies beyond a hill nearly a mile
iff. Two copious springs supply the necessary
water.
Date palms are reared; small gardens with
various kinds of fruit trees and a few ilelds of
corn are visible, but from a little distance tho
placo Is little ciso than a drab patch on a gray
landscape. Its principal distinction is its prox
imity to tho rocky city of Petra, a ride of some
eight hours to the west among the Moab hills.
The climate of Maan Is Invigorating, both In
winter and summer, as tho place Btands 3,025
feet above sen-level, surrounded by the dry, in
vigorating air of the doHort.
Tho principal drawbacks are the severe
dust Btorius. Main Is not uncommon in the
. prlng, and then a tinge of green spreadB over
tho landscape.
The ancient
fortress of Pe
tra and now
Maan owe their
linportanco as
standing at the
gate of Arabia,
and forming the
last outpost of
Syria and west
ern civilization
before the long,
dreary stages of
the northern
Arabian jour
ney. For countless
nces long be
fore the present pilgrimages this was the
route by which tho gold, frankincense, and
Arabian products found their way Into Syria;
but the Suez canal and steamer transport by
the lied sea seem to have abolished all, or
almost all, trade prospects, and only the pil
grims remain.
On leaving Maan it may inded be said that
all hope of dividend Is left behind and the line
enters a spirit world without towns or even
inhabitants. The stages south of Maan, the old
pilgrim route, were tho most desolate of all,
and the way was always strewn by dead and
dying cauxis as tho caravan tolled along. The
line crosses a constant succession of small wa
dis. Some CO miles south of Maan comes the uiost
remarkable change in tho landscape and the
veritable gato of Arabia and tho home of tho
genie Is at last reached. Tho line arrives quite
suddenly at the edge of the curious escarpment
known as tho P.atn el-tlhrul, or the Hollow of
the Genie.
From the station of llutn-el Ghrul, at the top
of tho descent, the traveler can walk to the
edge of the cliff and take in the immense ex
tent of view which unfolds Itself to the south.
The escarpment Is visible for some 20 miles to
the east, and is a sheer cliff without, It is said,
a single passago of descent. For some l.r miles
to the west, also, the escarpment Is fairly well
delined, until it merges In the high ranges ov
erlooking the Gulf of Akaba. The pilgrim route
follows tho descent closo alongside the line
and is from 3.207 feet at the summit to 3,278 nt
tho foot of tho escarpment, or 329 feet alto
gether. The view from the summit is extremely stri
king and comprises a great inland depression,
walled In by a continuation of tho escarpment
on the east, and glowing throughout in the
most brilllunt and striking colors. The prevail
ing note is bright red and yellow, changing to
violet, purple and black, so that every tint ex
cept green seems to bo supplied. Tho escarp
ment is of snndstone, which Beems to have
worn away in some places to sand-drift of all
colors, but principally red and yellow. The
spurs of tho Telesh-Shabim, which run out par
allel to tho line, are covered with glistening
black rocks, at first sight volcanic, but, as 1
was told by an engineer, they were really of
sandstone blackened by the Intense heat of the
sun. Tho depression extends south for a dis
tance of about 120 miles. In this clear, dry nlr
every feature is visible. Inquiries regarding
tha country to the east gave it as an almost
waterless region, although a route does exist
from Maan to Jauf along which soma scanty
wells can be
found. Towards
tho Kcd sea the
district is said to
contain a few
villages, and a
sufficient supply
of water from
Kinall springs.
An endless se
ries of beautiful
mirages unfold
- )
4
Li-
arr in
themselves as the train toils slowly along these
two lines of steel leading through an endless
expanse of sand and rocks, varied with an oc
casional volcanic outcrop raising black-topped
hills.
At Tebuk, 430 tulles from Damascus, is the
first oasis of any size, and hero a depot has
been formed, at which tho railroad can re
coup Itself before another long strentch of
nearly waterless desert Is entered and the next
depot at KI TJla rearhed. A group of buildings
for the employes, a small repairing shop, and a
hospital with CO beds form the principal part
of the depot.
Tebuk consists of a group of date palms
about a half a mile square, deriving water from
a large Fpiing and watched oVer by another
of the masonry forts which mark a pilgrim sta
tion. Altogether there were about (in mud
houses, with a few walled gardens belonging
to the permanent Inhabitants of Tebuk. All
that were seen v.rio of a distinct'" negroid
type, different from the nomad lledoum lh
surrounding country is but sparsely inhabited
by Arabs.
ltesldes date palms, there are in the gardens
a few lemon trees mid pomegranates, and out
side are some few fields of wheat, cultivated
principally as green fodder. The Italian en
gineer in charge of this section had managed
to make a garden In the sand, where by means
of irrigation he grew most kinds of Kuropean
vegetables, but none of the inhabitants seemed
inclined to copy his example.
It seems certain that Mohammed visited Te
buk in his earlier wanderings, and tradition
refers to Jebel Slierora as the Pulpit of the
Prophet, probubly tiom its commanding posi
tion overlooking all the surrounding country.
The rainfall in tliin country is extremely ca
pricious, and perhaps two or even three years
may elapse before there is any appreciable fall
here, although at Maan there appears to be
alwaya some rain in the spring.
Of animal life there appears to be very lit
tle. An untelope, Wileh the Turks call n wild
cow, but which looks to be oryx beatrix, is to
be found in this district, but only In small
numbers. The lurg" troops of gazelle seen
north of Maan do not ronm here. It Is said that
tho ostrich is occasionally found, and the skin
of one specimen Is preserved in Maan station.
The desert air is extremely dry and clear,
always invigorating, and even tho great heat
In summer is not as insupportable as in a
damper climate, whero tho thermometer is
probably lower. Climate has without doubt a
great elfect on the human character and In
tellect, and tho nervous, high-strung tempera
ment of the Arab Is to a great extent tho cre
ation of his environment of desert, with its
splendid mirages to fire the imagination and
spnrkllng nlr to keep tho nerves always alert.
South of Tebuk want of water Is again a
great difficulty, and the small posts havo to be
Tt1 i flfiiati
throughout by Turkish soldiers, but the statlo
buildings, all of very solid masonry, as well t
bridges and culverts, of which there aro
great number, have been constructed most)
by Italian workmen, with some Greeks an
Montenegrins. As many as three or four hul
dred Italian workmen were employed at on
time on tho works near Tebuk, and so llttl
did fanaticism come Into play that they bull
tho fine new mosque nt Tebuk. Subsequent
they Instructed somo Turkish engineers, wh.
continued the work from El Ula to tho Hoi;
City Itself.
It is difficult to think or this railroad be
coming a great highway or developing 141
great trade with Central Arabia, us the sec
tlon from Maan to Medina traverses an unpn
ductive country without possibility of develop
ment, and tho Interior of Arabia has no sui
plus products to dispose of. In any case, wir.
the line reaches the sea, at Sherm Knblgh, I
Is probable that any trade, either export or l-u
port, to Medina or Mecca will pass throng!
that port In preference to the long land Jfci"
ney. The following summary of dlstana'u
shows the extent of tho line:
Damascus to Maan 2S5 ni l
Damascus to Tebuk 430 milei
Damascus to Kl lia C0! mile;
Damascus to Medina S20 mllei
Damascus to Mecca 1097 miles
The gauge of the lino Is the somewhat, curl
ous ono of 1.05 meter (3 feet IH; inches)
which was necessary, when the line was firm
commenced, to correspond with the gaugo ol
th'j Pclrut-Damnscus line, over which tho r.i;i
Ing stock had to be brought. The branch te
tho Mediterranean, nt Haifa, was eonstnicei)
Kubsequently. The rails were supplied by:h
American Steel Trust, by a French firm dom
lciled In Russia, and by the firm of Cockerlll,
in Delglum.
The engineers In charge of sections wen
also of various nationalities French, Poles,
Hungarians, etc. while tho guiding spirit In
the construction has been Melssner Pasha, 1
very able German engineer. Hut besides these
the general direction has been under Marshal
Klazlm Pasha, to whom the greatest credit li
due in bringing the line successfully Into Me
dina, and to HaJJI Mukhtar lley, a brilliant
Turkish engineer, who has absorbed all mod
ern methods of construction, and completed
the last section into Medina without Kuropean
assistance.
In conclusion. It Is difficult which to udmlrc
the most, this far-reaching conception of hlb
majesty the sultan to build the line and thus
to further the interests of his religion and bind
together the outlying portions of his empire
or the Kllent, unswerving devotion of tho Turk
ish soldier who has carried the matter t a
conclusion, nnd who watches without com
plaint over miles of lino through a country al
most without water or Inhabitants.
l'"rotn (tin rnfn thero
coinen a Mm I n
of minliil Joy
Mill! p.UM
IVnrs nil I l:iiiKl;ter,
t;li;hft 11ml mntleH,
Kulnilnu tho by'ono
wlilleu;
Ami tln siiiii; K'K'B
1111 milll
W11 culcli wurils
that w.rtly thrill
ThroiiKli tlHj music
of din bin I
Am 11 xhailuw of cu ll
WUI'il,
Listen! Itrnr It Hlntf
l)f triM'B.
Ami of .drifting
wlnilM that mini
NoiMIiik tllO.HMcilIlN OH
they run
lleraliltiut the rising
nun;
7 iii b'T run,
. lleur It nliiK of
(JJ-, ; tV'i winds tlmt Mlmkn
'V)ft,;', J"wcled waves upon
n V;7Vvf,U A rul of wonilioun
r&VVvA Moflsom-tuiiK
?,L.V,,'7 )' Wheni Dm wll.l
KrupcH eliiteh ami
.1 . 'jk',.Att,il ""lis.
Ml
Hi 'ttiV 2L I And It tells us morn
unit inure
In Ita notes Dint rtnu
ami Hour
As Duiimli they woiitil Hnd tho goal
Kept from tills IniprlHonnil miul.
Faint and ft no Dm music, now,
KlRlng. falling, nil a ooiikIi
KoeUeil upon a itepliyr'H lireaKt,
HwliiKlntf Hum a iTudli-'-ntst.
So It Hlnk' of nlRtit nml morn,
Of Din lierry nml tho thorn,
Of D10 wild, wild HweppH of sea,
Of Din clover ami tho lieo,
Of the myHtlfl woodland lumh
Where tlio fairies romp nnd rush
ThrniiKh Dm mazes of their dance
In their olden nccromunco.
What? You hear It not? Ah, welt,
TIiiih wo brenk tho driviinlnK Rpell
Tlmt nrnilo It. fioth Bweet und strong
Kiiimhlno sparkling Into nntur.
Ami ho illi'H earli tilting nolo
In D10 llttln HoiiKHtor'tl throat.
Thin, nssiirodly thin I hennl:
"I rrmrnilier!" winif the bird,
n
X.V1v.,.A-.t I J
IldMan Giddles, ,
If It isn't a man
who wants to tell
you that ho taken
u cold bath every
morning it Is ono
who insists 011
telling you ho
cats two apples
every Dlght at
bedtime.
Most of ns ex
pect our friend
to bo honest, except when It comes to
our personal characteristics.
Kzra Tlmmons calls himself a pat
riot, bnt that Isn't nny excuse for his
waking pcoplo up In tho mlddlo of tho
night to tell them what ho would do
with Cuba.
Mrs. Lnko Podmoro has ordered her
winter dress mado with short sleeves,
but she Is worried to death because
Lnko won't begin wearing bis fall
overcoat already.
Thero aro men who brag about their
poor memories.
I read a magazine clear through the
other night, advertisements nnd all,
and then sat for an hour trying to
think what wns peculiar about it. At
last I figured it out; nothing had been
exposed In that Ishuo.
When a woman marries a mnn to
reform him she may as well count 011
being a reformer tho rest of her life.
When a woman who does her own
cooking reads a story in which tho
herolno bosses four or five maldd
about she beglnH to think that her
husband doesn't love her as ho
should.
Drawing the Line.
"Doctor," says tho lawyer, "will yon
kindly examine tho defendant, who is
seated within two feet of you, and tell
tho Jury whethiir la your opinion he
"Sir!" haughtily Interrupts tho eml
nent expert. "I will examine any nml
all hypothetical mest.lons you may
wish to ask, but I wish to inform yon
that what you suggest is in tho high
est degree unethical. No, Rlr! 1
cannot do It"
A Spree In the Cooperage.
The keff vim Kuyly nillliiK aero thi
cooper's floor, tho eask wan trylnu
vainly to cdKO In throiitfh tho door,
TT10 hoKshe.'i'l vowcl 'twas rimy to do Urn
liK!P-tli-toop, tho barrel mini; 11
merry otava thai ended with a hoop;
Tho crowd was soon arirKtoil ami tluiiD
Into tho iall their friend, tho wutei
bucket was shortly giving ball.
The Wretch.
"You have deceived 1110!" sighs th
trusting wife.
"I? Deceived yon? How?" tl
mand.s the surprised husband. j
"You have been telling me th
truth uhont whero you spend yout
evenings."