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About Capital city courier. (Lincoln, Neb.) 1885-1893 | View Entire Issue (March 11, 1893)
CRPITHL CITY COURIBR, 8 NEAV WOOLEN GOODS. ATTRACTIVE LINES DISPLAYED FOR. SPRING AND SUMMER. Henrietta ttousstau Describes the New Fnbrl Shown by New York Importer. Crinoline Will Not lie Iteeelved With Favor In This Country. Copyright, IKU, by American Proas Asaocla tlon.J Tho now woolon goods now displnyod for spring and smntnor, for thoro aro many days on which n woolon gown is n necessity oven in midsummer, aro of mnrked. beauty. Thero aro soft finish cheviots that aro bo tino and light that their very touch is a pleasure, and these como in tho light tints, such as gray, drab, biscuit, fawn, cream nickel gray and steel blue. Thero aro also others in old sago which moans, doubtless, dried sago, as it is just of tho Indistinct groon isli gTay of that plant. Somo of tho spring woolens aro of palo bluo cashmcro, with lozenges of flccco in gray, brown, black or whito, and they aro worn auko by children and grown persons. Tho plaids aro seen in force, tho most elegant of them being in shades of gray and blnck. Tho shepherd's plaid in light tints and pin head checks will always bo wom, and so will tho gray clair ettcs and silk warp henriottas, which gain their tint, light or iiomeoown. dark, simply by tho mixture of tho natu ral black and whito Australian wool Sod white silk warp. Thoy aro not yed gray, and In consequent never fado. Thcso are all imported Priestly goods. Thero is a now lino of domestic goods Which aro exceedingly pretty and val uable. Thero aro stripes of, say, red and green over bluo, but tho bluo is dull in digo and tho stripes softened shades, so that tho wholo 1b roilnod and pleasing. There is another whoro tho weave is sorgo twill, and thero is a navy bluo stripe ono full inch wido and a white ono not over an eighth of an inch. Tho sorgo has in somo way a soft finish, so that it drapes llko clmllio. TIiIb samo design is brought out in several colors, but nono Bo protty as tho bluo and white. For fall I saw in a leading importing house somo dosigns for plaids where tho pattern is so enormously largo thut it cannot nil bo worn in ono dress, at least unless the wearer is unusually largo, and in that case she had better not wear plaid. Thero is another material for dresses called "vestings," which will doubtless be much worn this spring and fall. It Lb of solid wool body in dark colors, such as brown, slato, gray, black, navy blue, etc., and thrown up on tho surfaco aro pin heads of silk in whito, old gold or fiomo other sharply contrasting color. I remember when very small to have had my grandmother show mo a piece of stuff just liko this in black and gold. Sho said it was her first dress after lay ing asido her widow's weeds, and that this particular pattorn was called "tho gleam of comfort." Out tho material is rich and will mako suerb costumes. Another now fabric consists in hair linos of gray and whito twilled wool and silk, a gown mado of which is shown hero. This was mado with a slight apron drapery in front, and deep, underlaid plaits in tho back. Around tho bottom is a looso fold of mossy green satin, nnd thero is a twisted belt of tho samo and a sailor cravat. Tho sleeves aro of tho silk, with a fall of lnco, and a little laco Is sown upon tho corsage, which can bo high in tho neck if so proforred. Ono reason why I givo theso threo spe cial costumes is to show that whilo somo of tho foreign modistes aro trying to forco crinolino and distended skirts upon us thero aro others quito as much in authority who do not intend that wo shall wear them. For my own part I care littlo and think that tho better class of New York ladies havo docided against them personally. To roturn to tho goods shown for spring. Thoro aro somo very protty light satin brocades for tea gowns and negligeos that nro sold very reasonably, and thoy nro certainly more stylish and elegant than nny cotton fabric can possi bly be. Thoro aro some all garnet, with medium sized floral pattern, and somo stono nnd slato grays that aro truly beautiful. If ono wishes theso light bro- BfllINO aOOPB AND OOWNS. cades to look liko tho heaviest, ono has but to intorliuo them with thin canton flatinol, tho cottony side next the satin, which secret I learned of u famous dress maker. For strictly summer goodB nnd for dancing dresses thero is n now line of light silks, taffetas with dainty dots and figures thrown up on tho Iridescent sur face I saw one pattorn thut I culled MM Damo Trot, It was changeable black and fild gold, and tho figures were littlo diamonds set on u leafy nest. The dia monds wcro black, shading to old gold through uovural gradations, and it was impossible fir ono to understand how many slnulcs junto from tho mixture of black and old gold threads. Tho wholo pattern was quaint to n degree. Thero nro vary many now silk grena dines of the most oxquislto design and excellent quality. Some havo hico ef fects between satin lines, somo brocades, and some havo a sheer foundation, with flowers thrown over tho surface, among tho most oiTcctlvo being small French marigolds in volvoty yellows, bluets or bachelor's buttons in their own rioli bluo or somo other artistic floral design. These peculiar styles aro to wear over silk slips. Thero aro striped grenadines, nnd thero is a larger variety than I havo ever seen of roally fino black woolen dress goods. Ono pattern I noticed ns being especially handsomo. It was a "dead lino" em press cloth, with n small, square raised dot about an eighth of an inch square scattered closely togother all over the surface. I saw also a now black challic, some thing quito now. It drapes in tho most artistic folds Imaginable and will bo a boon to Indies in mourning who rcqulro something for ordinary morning nnd homo wear, nnd whilo this clmllio Is not a cheap material its lightness and grace will recommond its uso to save tho mora oxponsivo silk warp henriettn, which is tho ono recognized material for ceremo nious wear for (loop mourning. Cashmcro nnd sorgo havo beon worn to somo oxtont for "bocoiuI best" mourn ing, but neither 1Mb all tho requirements, and alpaca of course I out of tho ques tion. Camel's hair is too hc.uy f r an ordinary dress a.tl cutches d.t.M too easily. Thero is anot'i r now weave just brought out of silk and wool, dead lino nnd absolutely flawless, which has not yet been christened. It combines all tho best qualities of cashmcro, empress cloth, serin) and silk wart) hcurietta, ami It i tho added recommendation that it will not take 0:1 that disagreeable utiue that is such a sad fault of some of the very finest woo'.en goods. Thero is n now weave In whipcord v. 1 dellcato broe.t led patterns mid diagonals with satiny stnix'a. tirniure weaves s. J a great variety of serges, an v. oil ns tho beautiful silk warp honriettu. This is so fino that It Ib impossible to traco n thread, and so strong that it will not tear, and whilo it has n wool surfaco it has tho fold and bloom of silk. Thero nro many so called heurlettos, but only thoso on tho varnished board nro tho genuiuo. nnd when ono pays high for a fine picco of goods ono should havo what is paid for. IIeniuettk Koussuau. Now York. A HEALTH REFORMER. Miss Marguerite Llnilley Journeys Yearly From St. AtlKiistlno to San FrancUeo. Among tho many health reformers who nro engaged In lecturing to women audiences may bo inontlonod Miss Mar guerite Llndloy. Much of Miss Llndloy's work Is philanthropic. At St. Augus tino, whoro sho spends tho months of early spring, her timo Is largoly divided into hours sot apart for the instruction of "poor whites" and working pooplo who do not havo tho benefit of lectures nnd "talks," and Jo whom a homomaga ziuo or a good nowspapor Is n rarity. MAnOUERITK MNDLET. In appearance Miss Lindloy is slight and almost delicate, but she boasts nono tho loss of enjoying tho best of health, which sho claims is largely duo to tho beneficent results of good living and proper exercise. Clad in a looso gown, sho exorcises daily until her mus cles aro as firm and her flesh as hard as thoso of the typical prizefighter. When not in gymnasium dress, Miss Lindley'a costumo is not different from thut of other women, save that under ueath the well cut gown thero is a broad waist instead of a steel corset. Moal ton, in his "Biographies of American Women." pays Miss Lindley a high trib ute not only for her health reform ideas, but for her personal sweet uchs and generosity of character ns well. Everywhere Miss Lindley goes sho is received in the best society, and if bin could bo persuaded to tell tho story of her work thero would bo many an In teresting tale unfolded of well known socioty people who Ituvo gone too deeply into society's whirl and havo had to bo reclaimed by wholesome health culture. AUQU'STA PlllSCOTT. Why They Oppose Woman Suffrage. It Is owing largely to women that pub lic attention has been aroused to tho mis management of poorhouscs and tho mis treatment of police prisoners. Yot it is a disgrace that women hardly ever havo nny official recognition on hoards whoro theso wrongs can bo righted, Orru Langhoruo writes that it was the aid of the women's leagues that miido it possi ble to suppress tho Louisiana lottery. Tho ladies did this working in their un represented capacity. How much more they could do in an ofllciul, recognized capacity is pluinly teeu by spoils poli ticians everywhere, nnd that is the rea son why they fight with such despera tion against women as public ollicers. But never mind I AT THEllt NEW DESKS. WALTEP WELLMAN CALLS ON THE CABINET OFFICERS. Orrnlinin In 1'osler's Clmlr Carlisle In a lllntorle Itiioni llnalnrnn Characteris tic of Heerrtarles Nuiltli, Herbert, Ills ell, Morton ami Olncy, (Hprctal CrrrHKiiiiloiice. Wamhnoton, March I). I havo just mado a call upon each of tho members ot tho new cabinet. I found them at their desks hard at work. They aro eight strong nnd interesting men, and aftci they have been somo timo in ofllco and wo havo had an opportunity to study them more closely I shall then (ell you more in detail what I think of them. Now I am giving you simply my Im pressions, Several of them wo already know very well In Washington, Judge Grcsliittii, tho premier, has been In two cabinet posts before, that of postmastet general and secretary of tho treasury. Ho has his characteristics, just as ho had when ho was n member of tho Artluu cabinet. With nil his affability and lovableticsi Gresham can bo quito Imperious v. hen ho likes, nnd ho often chooses to decide things in a rather summary ukuiuu-. Woo to tho man who attempts to pre sumo upon his good nature. If Gri'shnin has a fault, it is that of being u little too suspicions. That was ono of Gen ernl Harrison's faults too. Both Gresh am and Harrison nro too much inclined to suspect that thero (h a job or an im proper motive lurking behind every mat ter that Is pressed upon their attention. Neither of them has this t ...ructoristic in privuto life, but both have it very strikingly in performance of their pub lic duties. Secretary Gresham occupies tho twine room and tho name desk which his Im mediate predecessor, John W. Foster, used during tho short time ho was at the head of tho state department. Mr. Blaine used tho same room nominally, but pre ferred to sit ut tho endf tho great table In tho magnificent diinomatic room ad joining. It was n queer choice to make, lor few men liko to work in such a large apartment, Tho room which Secretary Gresham now occupies is ono of tho handsomest apartments in tho war, state and navj building, which is by long odds tho finest of our public buildings in tho capital. It is nn apartment about -10 by 110 feet in bize, with plenty of light streaming in through threo largo windows, and with u charm ing view over tho valley of tho Potomac and to tho Virginia hills beyond, In ono corner of tho room Ib u screen, be hind which sits tho privuto secretary. This assistant can hear everything thut Is said at the desk of his chief. An odd way to do business, you think. But wait till you learn tho real uses ot tho secretary. In tho first place, his presenco deters somo men from saying things to tho secretary of state which it would bo just as well to leavo unsaid. They nro moro on their guard than they would 1)0 if closeted nbsolutely nlouo with tho secretary. Again, at n touch of n button on his desk Secretary Gresh am orders tho stenographer behind tho screen to take down names and dntes and such other facts from tho conversation of his visitor as it may bo important to remember. Seo what 11 great loud of detail this takes from tho mind of the man who us oecretury of state has about ns many things to think of as an ordi nary mortal should attempt. But if the caller bo ono with whom tho secretary really desires to converso in private ho simply touches another button, and tho assistant gets quickly up and wulks out of the room. Thero is no nonsense ulwtit Gresham. It is as easy to get to seo him us it is any lawyer in your town. You simply send in your enrd and await your turn. When you get up to tho desk of tho hand somo premier Gresham is by long odda tho handsomest man in tho cabinet nnd Dun Laniont tho plainest you aro in vited to sit down. Tho secretary looks you full in the eye, asks you a few plain questions, drives btruight at the heart of your business, makes a noto with Ids lead pencil, indicates that tho interview is practically at an end, and us you rise to go ho speaks a friendly word or two thut makes you llko him in spite of ids abrupt ness and his quick way of getting rid of you. Secretary Carlisle uses tho same room which secretaries of tho treasury liavo used for a number of years John Sher mau.Wiudom, Greslmm, FulrchUd, Man ning, McCulloch, Foster. Mr. Carlislo has been in olllce but four working days, and already ho is weary. His is not tho temperament thut enables a man to hit all day ut a desk receiving callers, shift ing rapidly from ono topic to another, denying requests and standing off even his friends without mental worriincnt. Just ns soon as tho conditions settlodown a littlo it is Mr. Carlisle's purpose Ut shut himself up ns much us possible nnd bo tho theoretical manager and brain engi neer of tho great department, Ienving to his assistants the bulk of the work of dis posing of applications for ofllco, Tho booner ho is enabled to do this tin- better. But Secretary Carlisle is courteous to' all comers. With his fino Kentucky training ho could not Ixi otherwise. Ho told mo today that he had constantly to fight against u tendency to interest him self in tho purely financial business of the department, and thut it wus with difficulty sometimes ho could rouse him self from study of tho financial problems with which ho is confronted to give decent hearing to tho office seekers. But when ho does rouso himself ho getsulong surprisingly well. Mr. Carlislo bus such keen perceptions thut before his caller litis uttered hnlf n dozen words tho secretary appears to know tho wholo story of his errand. It is not necessary to explain. Tho secre tary bees tho indut, and with a iliihh of that matchless intellect of his has taken in all the conditions and collaterals. In a twinkling ho seems to think of every thingthe objections, the difficulties, the strength and the weakness of tho proposi tion. Thero aro few such minds in the world, imd few men who could "bitup words out of tho mouth" A a caller and state his own ease for him better than he could state it himself, and without giving olTense, us Mr. Carlisle often does, Carlislo loves tho abstruse problotm of finance. Even now, tired as ho It when night comes, ho gets his dlnnei nnd then sits down ut a big round table In tho top story of his residence, lock tho door nnd studies reports, documents and great columns of figures till I or S o'clock in the morning. Hoke Smith Is a success. This man, whoso peculiar name has so quickly be come n household word throughout the country, bus been in NN tishlngton lonji enough to show us thut ho is made oi sterling stuff. It is a delight to seo how ho goes at his work. Ho Is ono of thost big, masterful fellows to whom all things even tho great, numerous nnd iwrploxlng things pertaining to the ofllco of secre tary of tho interior, como easily. Ho re ceives his numerous cnllorn with thut na tive grace nnd pleasing manner which nro tho heritage of every true southerner. Thero seem to bo two departments tolili brain one to think about tho bushiest of which his culler Is talking and th( other to uso in consideration nimultuuo ously of the more Important matters ol the day. And ho does it all without up parent elTo. t. Ono thin;' I liko about this now mat In tho national arena is thut tho man columns of jokes and doggerel that him been printed about his name havo found no more appreciative listener than him self. Ho laughed with 1110 today nboul ono of the latest of theso jokes nnd re marked that tho "Hoke" business had probably added 10 years to his llfo by In ducing him to laugh and grow fat. lit has been smart cuniif;h ut tho same time to perceive that a wholesale system oi advertising liko that which lins sent hit name thundering dovn tho nges Is not 11 bad thing to have in tho house, partlou lurly when It doesn't cost a cent. Hero in Washington the uowspupet men nro already sinking of Secretarj Lament us "tho daisy." This is not 0 very dignified manner of designating a member of tho cabinet, but it is quiU expressive If you want to realize the forco of the term as applied to Mr. La ment to old Wushlngtoniuns ho will never bo nnythlng but "Dan" even If lit reaches tho presidency itself you should pay tho new secrotnry of war a cull in his beautiful olllce. Stephen B. Elkiusis known ns a "sleek' man in tho transaction of business and in the disposition of a miscellaneous lot of callers, but Latuont can givo him curdt nnd spades and then beat him nut. Tin callers como by tho hundreds, but Dun gets through with them suns friction, sans rullliug of his own or any ono elso'c temper, nnd with apparent satisfaction to all concerned. If ho shows himself nblo to munngo tho war department with out having tlio usual outbreak of hostil Hies between tho staff and lino officers, he will do well indeed. It is ono ot tho traditions of this de partment that a now secretary must le taken in bund ut onco by tho bnrnaclct who havo been hanging on for tho Lord only knows how many years, and that his chief duty is to sign tho letters which nro placed upon his desk. If ho wantt to bo u real good ami comfortable Bccro tnry of war, ho will not even bother him self to read tho letters. A man stands over him and huvh, "Sign thero," Judi eating with bis finger, and tho complal sunt Bccrctur v signs. But Dun Lament is not thut kind of a secretary of war. He has bis own ideas of how tho business of his ofllco should be managed, nnd I am thinking that for a month or two there will Ih moro war In tho department than out of it. Tho new secretary of tho navy bus set tled moro easily and gracefully into his work than nny of his colleagues. Secre tary Herbert has tho immense advantage of knowing every detail of tho depart ment, 11 knowledgo that wus acquired during his long service on tho naval af fairs committee of tho house. Ho knows tho chief bureau officers, too, and they all like and admire him. Therefore Mr. Herbert is getting along very nicely. He sits nt tho sumo desk which Mr. Tracy used four years, and when I talked with him today ho said a very graceful tiling about his predecessor. "If I shall bo uble to do as well in the navy department tut General Truoy has done," ho said, "I shall bo well snUsiled." General Tracy and Generul Herbert are warm friends. Postmaster General Bisholl is perhaps tho hardest working man in tho admin istrutiou just now. It is for tin post ofllco department that great nninliers and an immense variety of person, make tho moment they arrive in tho town. Thousands of them came hero fur the inauguration and started out bright and early Monday morning to sit Ui.ssell about that little ltostufilco matter. Ful ly two-thmls of the DeiiMxrutie mem bers of eo'tgress uro Mill iu town, and they have certain rights, or think they have, when it comes to tho distribution of postollico plums, and they uro not at nil backward about making their wishes known. They haunt tho ofllco of fat, big, good natural and easy going Mr. Bissell from morning till night, lie seems to get along with them tolerably well, consid ering the immense disadvantage which ho labors under in having had no Wash ington experience and iu being wholly unacquainted with public men nnd tho methods of public ollices here. Attorney Generul 01neytwns bending over his desk hard ut work when 1 called. Ho is a lawyer a typical lawyer and that is the most I can say for him till I know him better. Ho has charm ing manners despite his directness, nnd his blunt way of speaking his mind must have been one of tho things which Mr Cleveland liked iu him. The member of the cabinet who seems destined to greatest popularity is Secre tary of Agriculture Morton. He is a worthy successor to our good friend L'nclo Jerry, who was ono of tho In-st liked men of tho whole Harrison admin istration. Liko Uncle Jerry, Secretary Morton tells stories. He is fond of sit ting down with his friends for a good, yld fashioned talk. Ho is a great friend to all newspaper men. Wai.tku Wuujun. The TajtaSBBLLHI(!A GAS AND- Gasoline -ARE Monarch all Sizes, Styles Safe, Economical - and - Simple! 1893 Stoves now in stock Kitchen Utensils the Latest and Host. H. J. HALL & BRO, 1308 O STREET Liberal Intyet OHI'It K . It. K. MOOHC, I'icsMont U.K. llllOWN.N'Ico-l'rcK. 0. II tMIIOI'T.Cimlili'r Inturctt niitKcriouH It K Moore, J I) .Miirfurluiul, K K llrown, J V Doweew. J. I Inilioir, 0 K Yalcs, A H Itin notiil. Joint rittKcrnhl, T h Culvert. YOUR JH. TKL. 853 "W 1 iKvinn - tnrFlnn nn nrantlra work ij of Oinnliu, n Director, during which time the ahove Orchestra fur- n.siiiu iiiiiRio iiiritn wiv pronunomoToni, nn:iuuii7,nicnii.-niijr. uiu,, I have located In Lincoln to engage personally Inuicheitra business. ivuiiiiB ciMiiiuuiii unit 1 can iuuubu ius uhi 17 tim, i nj ,tuw , --, times. For tonus nnd Information, call at office of CAPITA I, Cl"T L Couhikii, 1 131 Ostrcol, or call up telephone 263. V ntnTx-iiynrjyrmtTyein trtyrtf t$x-t$rirt$s7ynl Sewing Machine and Gun Repairing Wc have Just employed a skillful workmsn from the East, who li full competent to make all repair In the above lines T. J. THORP & CO., . 320 South Eleventh street Establ cd 1868 1134 () Street. For Pure Ice Cream and Delicious Fresh Oysters ! CAM j AT The Bon Too Telephone 4C7. VJO'J P Street. Geo. Meicfeirleine, Fropr. BHKERY'S CONFCTION6RYS CoflVu mill I.lcht Lunches at all Hours Lincoln, Neb Aii Old School in a New Lo&.tion Ninth Year. 25 Departments. 30 Teachers Hcniitlml, health locntioi, mnpnlllccnt luillilincs tine equipment, superior nccom tntxlntlont., strong JaeulU, comprehensive curriculum, ihotDiiyh woik, high moral and chiUtlnn Influences an J low cpeiHes make thU The SCHOOL FOR THE MASSES A practlcaleilucatlon without needle. wtiMc of time or none I furnished h tht Western Normal College You can Enter any Time and Choose Your Studies Thl great rchool I located In Hawthorne, three miles southwest of the post office an ' will he connectedly electric street car line, YOl'R CAR FAKE I'AlD. In order that nil may see our many advantage. In the way ot buildings, equipment, faculty.etc. we will pay our car fnic from your home to Lincoln provided ou are present on the opening nay oi lite lull term, sept. iSy: .in.. ....HIV mm iiutm-i-or. in .,, j ui n u jifopie iimi we win m'iiu jou cnoieo or nne i.v ,7iy-,Sri,VJV.,?!r.r.'.,,rV'"tM.l.1Kr!l",,",.,. m,r HlurHtil eilucnllotm monthly. C. IKUlr.a ANDC1HCUI.AUH, KUKK. AiUlres WM, M. CHOA.N lre.or ru MK1 WESTERN NORMAL COLLEGE, Llncolo, Best WBlafi'aWiawrrW - Stoves ! THE- and Prices. Absolute Surlty pnlil mi HuvIuim Deposit nt Hie rntoof Klvo per cunt pur Annum, cJiopSavipsBapK 1 1 1 South 10th St, Lincoln. Nobr. EntirB Capital Invested in IT, S.HondB. 8AVINQ8 SOLICITED. MUIIO k Mia rownaaTa P Oft CONOIRTS RIOIPTIONa OANOM,ttf ORCfflOTi with the Mllltcal Union Orchestra. Write for particulars. neb. CATA Neb. J. KINSLKY, b'rercttiry and Treasurer
