Nebraska Newspapers

    CAPITAL CITY COURIER, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 1889
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OMAHA, NEB.
i
OF SANTA CLARA VALLEY.
FREDERICK W. WHITE WniTE8 OF
A CHARMING REGION.
Tim Hmnf.irtl University The l.lck Obncr-
tntury Wonderful (Inivra if Oriuign nnd
Ollvo Trts The fllurlous Cllmat of
C'ntlfoi-iiln.
IH'vcIaI (Ximviponiloiice.)
Han J08K, Cnl., Sept. 13. Of nil tho
vnlloyn of Cnllfornln Bnnln Clnrn Is by
Ioiik ol!n tlio most lonntlful, most pro
ductlvo, most InturestliiK. Po-wlldy Us
ncimicAH ti) Hnti Frnnclaco tuny account,
In u iiuutBiirc, for tli Is. Early Bottlers proh
nbly withered nenr tlio coiiunurclnl cen
ter, nnd civilizing iirocciwes nnd Im
provements Icopt jwico with tho growth
of tho ini)lroK)lla of tho Pnclflo. But bo-
PALMS NKAIl BT. JAMK8 PA11K, BAN JOSK.
yond nil tlieso is tho oxquislto nnturnl
Mcnuty nnd rlclincnH of tho vnlloy, which
linn nindo It tho abiding plnco of tlio rop
roBontntivo wealth of tho entiro slopo
nnd given It n distinction pccnlinrly ita
own. I cannot think of any ono hundred
miles of railway in tho civilized world
presenting ou its lino nnythlng liko tho
number of attractions, fnnious hero and
abroad, that aro seen on tho journoy
from San Franc Ibco to Monterey through
tho lovoly valloy of Santa Clara.
First, then, is Mcnlo Park, tlio summer
homo of tho Floods, tho Mackays, tho
Crockors, tho Stanfords nnd other Occi
dental millionaires which has about it
mi oxcluslvoncsa nnd roposo not uuliko
Lenox, Mass. Hero, too, is Senator Lo
land Stanfonl'a "Palo Alto," tho equtno
pjirndlse, a ranch of nearly ten thousand
acres, whero eight or nino hundred
horses livo bettor than half tho humans
of tho world, whero two hundred men
nro employed to caro for them, and
whero tho celebrated Electioneer, valued
at $100,000, heads tho stud. As I patted
tho grand old horso in his roomy stall, I
thought of n fow years ago when ho waa
bought in tho cost for a mero iKigntelle.
Ilia get, thus far, has been sold for a
round million at least.
To tho north of Mcnlo Park Is tho Ice
land Stanford university. I wandered
through ita superb yot unfinished walls
of yellow stone, which, when completed,
will havo cost twenty millions of dollars.
Tho senator pays tills twenty millions
and then endows it nil with thirty mill
ions more, as n, beginning. Upon what
a largo scalo those California millionaires
dothlngsl Within sight of tlio univer
sity buildings is San Joso, tho prettiest
and most cultivated city in tho state,
with a community of much moro than
aVcrago intelligence. Just boyoud tho
city, ou n "heaven kissing hill," is tlio
famous Lick observatory, tho Mecca of
tho avcrago tourist. Not many miles
away aro tlio big trees and Santa Cruz,
nnd near them nro tho two great estab
lishments of Sprcoklca, tho sugar king,
whero thousands of tons of beets nro
made into sugar. At tho end of nil is
Del Monto, n inlninturo gardon of Eden.
Tlioy havo a legend in Santa Clam
which tho loyal nntivo of San Joso will
kindly tell you, to tho effect that in tho
far distant, prohistorio times, this was
tho homo of tho fairies, who watched
over all tho provinces or counties in em
bryo of California; that when tho Span
ish padro camo with his bell and book
thov departed from tho Pacific to other
undiscovered lands; that before going
tho fairy representatives of nil tho coun
ties met at Santa Clara and into her lap
poured tho gifts for which thoy wero
each most noted. Thus it has come to
pass that this valloy and county of Santa
Clara lias "something and tho best" of
all tho other valleys and counties pos
sess, and is therefore so rich in natural
treasures that it is called the- earthly
paradise. Of coureo tliU pretty legend
is shrewdly advanced by tho worldly
wiso resident ns part of tho glorification
of his homo, but tho gist and implication
of yio fairy talo ia not far from the
truth.
Tho visitor to tho Lick observatory has
a sentimental journoy if nothing more.
Tlio distanco up and down tho mountain
aide or thcro and back is fifty-two
miles, tho faro is $5, tho tlmo occupied
about ten hours. Tlio road is an excep
tionally flno ono and tho scenery ox
quislto. It suggests poetry and things,
and they say that miles of tender verses
havo been written by Inspired tourists,
who leavo tho Vcndomo on tho big Con
cord stages in tho oarly morning. If
you tako tho ordinary convoyunco, not
built for ordinary mountain travel, you
aro likely, howovcr, upon your return to
San Joso in tho evening, to fully appre
ciate Horaco Qreeley'a remark when
Hank Monk, on a wngcr, drove tho great
editor over rocky roads from Virginia
City to Plocorville, 113 miles, in ten
hours.
Tho old man, getting down from tho
coach with much difficulty, observed to
tho waiting and gaping mob: "Qcntlo
men, I'll bet $30 that Hank Monk is tho
boat driver in America, and that I'm tho
sorest man," Tho olwervatory la built on
tho crest of what is now called Mt. Ham
ilton, a sightly cminenco which tho
Spaniards a century ago gracefully chris
tened Mt. Ysabcl. The now imiuo is a
gross impertinence. Somo village doc
tor wandered up thero ono day, aud in a
burst of tremendous egotism called tho
mountain nftcr himself. Ho wrote some
thing about it and then decently died.
When the visitor geta to the observa
tory ho stays thero a couplo of hours,
wanders through tho buildings, is told
sovcral times that "thero, sir, is the larg
r. nil Jblki!k
fMmmmmMWF
est teleseoK) on Mod's wide earth," nnd
-that under Its foundation of ono hundred
tons or moro James Lick, pioneer and
philanthropist, Is laid iormancntly and
deep. He rests under tho great domo of
tho olmcrvatory, Jimt us Naioleon rests
under the great dome of the Invnllden In
lirln. Hut tho Frenchman gives, oven
to this home of death, a touch of artistic
beauty by brightening It with ilch colors
nnd decorating It with line mosaics.
Lick's vault, on the contrary, is dark and
gloomy,
The Lick olmervatory has been hero
for several years mid is jet to m heard
from. It remind moof Charles Dickens'
refreshment station at Mugby, "whose
proudest boast was that (I had never re
freshed anybody," I can't for tho lifoof
mo see how James Lick acquired a repu
tation for great philanthropy by build
ing this observatory with Its "biggest
telescopo on earth." Your corresond
out may U of tho (Irudgrlnd species,
aud might make palatable, soup of his
grandmother, but ho really cannot see
what practical uso tho observatory Is. It
has been hero nearly a decade and its ns
tronomors havo accomplished nothing.
Possibly there Is nothing to accomplish.
Astronomical science has virtually
reached Its r.enlth. Tho movements of
tho heavenly orbs, tho principles by
which their motions nro regulated, with
tho causes of tho various phenomena,
aro known thoroughly, and If nil tho
observatories on tho' globo wero aban
doned today tho science of navigation,
for example, would know, nnd does
know, nil that can nld it for tho next
thousand years. San Joso, howovcr, Is
very proud of this observatory, which
overlooks Its beautiful valloy, nnd novor
asks unpleasant questions concerning its
utility.
At tho broad bases of these towering
hills lies somo of tho fairest land under
tho sun. Deep green ornngo groves, lus
cious vinoynrds, oxtonslvo orchards, with
ollvo and prune trees galore. I spent
two or threo dnys driving nbout under
tho shadow of Mount Hamilton, and
novor did my eyes rest on a rosier or
moro prosperous country, seeing uowhero
a sign of poverty, and meeting a people
of uncommon thrift. Ono afternoon I
unexpectedly visited nn ollvo ranch,
mooting tho owucr on tho highway by
accident. It was near Los Qatos, n fow
miles from San Jose, and Is known, I bo
llcvo, ns the Quito grove.
Could 1 1)0 in Cnllfornln? I recalled a
day In Tuscany, when I sat eating olives
nnd black bread with n sandaled Italian
priest, nnd heard him sing his dreams of
hope, and laugh his satisfaction over tho
drooping yield of his purplo trees.
Somo ono has said that no landscape, Is
spiritual from which tho ollvo is absent.
I do not know ns to that, but tho grow
ing ollvo to mo seems to havo tho breath
of heaven on its body just as it had on
that mount whero tho sermon tvas
preached moro than eighteen centuries
ago. Quito grovo isan Italian reproduc
tion. All the men employed on it havo
been brought from tho olivo groves near
Florcncoj and havo given a nntional
cliaracfer to their present homo. Tho
owner is Mr. Goodrich, a gentle
man with a passion for ollvo culture
Ho Is an eastern man, an alumnus
of Yalo and a traveler of observation
nnd taste. Ills family Is living in Flor
ence, whero his children nro being edu
cated, and ho has mudahis present quar
ters resemble tho Italian homo of his
wlfo ns much as possible. Tho servants
and tho scrvico nro Italian, which is tho
ono iangungo spoken, and tho wholo
plnco has tho truo Tuscan flavor, Ho is
Improving tho olivo nnd, I assumo, mak
ing money in this delicious vnlloy, wliilo
all about him aro tidy llttlo ten aud
twenty ncro farms do voted to tho French
pruno, tho grnpo and tho olivo, whoso
owners say they realize two nnd threo
hundred dollars an aero. To tho visitor
it scorns nn ideal existence; what its
drudgery may bo I do not know. Dut
this I do know, that tho roads of a neigh
borhood aro a fair criterion of tho neigh
borhood's Intelligence nnd prosperity,
and tho roads of Santa Clam nro mag
nificent, well graded and ballasted. Tho
Aiauicdn, for instance, a broad avo
nuo running from San Joso to Santa
Clara, la lovel as a floor and shaded
by trees planted by tho mission
fathers 100 years ago. In tho perfection
of ita roadways California gives tho east
many points in tho game. "If you nro
In San Joso next Sunday I will run up
and dlno with you at tho Vendomo,"
said a San Francisco friend ns on a
ifnrcfi Monday ovening ho saw mo off for
Del Monto and Monterey. Tho noxt Sun
day I sat in tho cool of the veranda
awaiting tho arrival of the noon train,
when my friend quietly bowled into the
court yard ou his bicycle. Tho distance
from San Francisco to SanJoso is fifty
miles, no hod mado it in a triflo over
threo hours, bo perfect nro tlio roods.
LBLAND STANFORD'S MKMOIUAL. CHAPEL
Toward dusk ho returned, thinking noth
ing of tho spin. It Is ono of tho ordina
ry Sunday jaunts of tho wheelmen, es
pecially during, say February and
March, when the warm spring sun has
nothing enervating In its caress.
Wasn't it Cervantes who said ' It was
liko bidding farewell forever to a travel
ing companion with whom ono has
passed ngreenblo travel from home? He
is not a friend, yot you eem to lovu him
liko one, and you will remember him nil
through llfo wlthafcellngof desiro moro
lively than you would experience toward
many of thoso to whom you glvo tho
namo of friends. And fco, with a tingo
of regret I bid ndiau to tho prosperous
city of San Jose, tho enchanted gardens
nt Del Monte, tho marvels of Mcnlo Park)
tho "gloiious climate of California."
Fueueuicu W. White.
'its
THE COSSACK IN CENTRAL ASIA.
Information A limit an Iiitotmtliig I'eoplo
by it I'miiou. Tratrrlnr.
(Rppclnl Corrcsitondcncu.
Nkw YoitK.Sept. 20. A wide, treeless
plain, looking vaster aud drearier than
over Ixmcutli tho creeping shadows of
evening, amid which tho last gleam of
sunset glows red nnd angrily lu tho far
west: a dark belt of matted brushwood,
marking the winding coiirso of n shallow,
muddy river; a score of camp fires
twinkling faintly along its bank nmid
tho gathering (IIiiiiickh, like stars seen
through a mist: sheaves of Inures aud
rifles piled around them with mili
tary exactness, nnd groups of gaunt
white clad llguresaiid (lark, lean, wolllsh
faces lllltlng ghostlike to and fro in tho
spectral glare of the firelight? Such was
tho scene iiimiii which i came suddenly
ono evening in Central Asia during Rus
sia's last war with tho iiativu tribes of
Tartary.
These men were tho renowned "Cos
sacks," of whom tho world has heard so
much and seen so llttlo, nnd whom it
usually pictures to Itself as forever rush
ing nt full gallop across a boundless
plain, with n writhing bnby on their
lanco jHiInt and a slice of raw horseflesh
"keeping hot" between tho steed and tho
saddlo maintaining thcmselvesnnd their
horses where thero Is nothing to eat, nnd
amassing stores of 111 gotten gnln whero
thero Is no ono to rob. In reality, I havo
always found this legendary ogro a very
jovial, boyish, siuiplo hearted fellow,
who, though too often committing fear
ful atrocities when his blood Is up in
battle, has nover done anything worso
than many recorded deeds of far moro
civilized FoldlerB within tho memory of
living men.
It Is with warriors liko tlieso that Rus
sia Is now bowing n path of conquest
across tho wholo breadth of Central Asia
and overpowering tho fierce Afghans and
Turkomans with a hardihood aud en
durance even greater than their own. In
bearing heat and cold, thirst and hun
ger, long marches and unwholesomo
camping grounds no man living can sur
pass the Cossack. It is truo that ngainst
tho disciplined armies of Germany tlieso ,
wild spearmen would bo of llttlo uso ox
ccpt as scouts and foragers; but for tho
Irregular warfare of tho eastern deserts
they havo no match on tho fnco of tho
earth.
Most of tho men wero lying stretched
on tho ground after their tunrch, in lazy
enjoyment; for a Cossack's life has no
medium either rushing ncross tho stop
po like n whirlwind, or snoring in the
dirt like a hog. But n fow wero still
busy around tho fires, nnd somo of them
struck up nil at once an old Russian war
song as familiar to my cars as to their
own:
"Soldiers, KOldlora, lads of tho czar.
Who nru your fathers, say!"
"Our fathers nro battles wlicwo famo rings loud,
They nro our fathers thoy I"
"Soldiers, soldiers, lads of tho czar.
Who nro your mothers, say f "
"Our mother aro tcnU standing white on tho Held,
They aro our mothers Ihcyl"
"Soldiers, soldiers, lads of the czar.
Who nro your slstil-s, say f "
"Our sisters aro sabers whetted to smite.
They aro our sisters they I"
"Soldiers, soldier , tell mo onco more
Who aro your brides, I pray?"
"Our brides they nro gun well loaded for flght,
They aro our brliles nyo, theyl"
As tho song ended, I walked Into tho
camp quite unnoticed: for, in my soiled
whlto Russian forage cap, travel stained
cotton jacket and trousers nnd kneo high
boots, I was quite lllto enough to tho
men around me to havo passed for ono
of themselves In that uncertain light.
But I had no wish to avoid their observa
tion. I sat down on a Btono nnd, taking out
my colored map of Central Asia, pre
tended to bo studying it, knowing well
thnt tho CobKickuf who, like most sav
ages, aro as curious as children) would
soon bo drawn around mo by tho sight
or this strange object, which, with its
gay colors, queerly printed nnmes and
puzzling network of crossed lines, would
bo a very novel and startling thing to
them.
And so it proved, I suddenly liecame
nwaro of a gaunt, sallow, gray mus
tached visage so crisscrossed with saber
scars as to look just liken railway map
peering inquisitively over my shoulder.
Then another and another camo edging
in lesIdo it, till I was hemmed in by a
complcto ring of wild figures and grim
faces.
"What's that picture, father? We
can't quite, mako it out."
"It's not a picture at all, brothers it's
a plan that shows mo tho very way by
which you havo como hero from Holy
Russia and all tho places that you havo
passed through. "
And then, seeming not to notice tho
looks , of unbelief and meaning grins
with which my hearers received what
they considered to bo a most outrageous
lio, I went on:
"Up hero, at Orenburg, you passed tho
Ural river and then marched eastward
to Orsk, whero you crossed tho frontier
nnd turned to tho southeast."
"3o wo did. comradcsl" shouted half
a dozen voice at onco. "He speaks the
truth 60 we did."
"Then you paused Fort Kara Butak,
crossed tho Kara Koum desert and halt
ed here and hero and hero (naming and
describing the various posts, all of which
I know well).
The Cossacks listened open mouthed
and wido eyed to tho familiar names,
nnd thu excited clamor was followed by
a sllenco of utter amazement. Then one
said timidly:
"Father, can you show us tho very
place where wo aro now?"
'To bo sure I can, my lad, See, that
black spot la the village yonder: there's
the river, twisting nnd winding; nnd
hoi e, just where you see this lino, la
your camp."
Thero was another pauso of blank be
wilderment, mid then the scarred jet
crnn with the gray mustache nsked In
awe stricken u hlsper:
"But, father, tell mo, for tho lovo of
4iven, If hii' marched n thousand
miles sinco leaving Holy Russia, how
tho devil can It nil go into n llttlo scrap
of paper no bigger than an Easter enke?'
David Kkh.
hhhbI
Wo
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l&MAt
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Including main lines, branches and extensions East and West of the
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and Sioux Falls, In DAKOTA Camoron, 8t. Joseph, and Kansas City, la
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E. ST. JOHN JOHN SEBASTIAN,
General Manager. OHIOAQO, ILL. Qea'l Ticket Pass. Ace-1.
100 Engraved Calling Cards
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If you have a Plate, we will furnish 100 Cards from
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mnkn n speclnlly of Kino I'liologrnplili nnd'
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THE
my M U J V
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Opened Sept. 1, 1883.
Finest Hotel in the West
Now Burr Block.
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