:a, ...
i
i
LEND THEMSELVES EASILY TO
SHIRRING AND PUFPINQ.
Lnco In Lavishly Used on Bummer
Organdies and Brings Coat of Gowns
of Compnrntively X,owPrlced Ma
terial Up to High Flsure.
New Tork correspondence:
ABRICS so thin
aud soft ns thoso
now In universal
uso are flno medl
ums for shirring
and puffings, and
In c o n b o a u o n c o
this treatment Is
much soon In sum
mory gowns. Now
and then a bodico
nppcars tliat Is
puffed all ovor
buck mid front,
though much more
often there are
only n fow lines to
outline the yoko or
to ornuuicut the
bust lino. Shir-
rings aro much em
ployed, too, in tlio
finish of skirts
lust below belt or girdle, and at times
thoy aro in sufficient area to give yoke
fcffect, though in most of the latter mod
fels they are not so extensive. Elsowhere
white silk pongee was trimmed I ' vltl
Irish point lace. A tucked waist showe
msido its bolero. Such gowns are espo
oially impressive when so few, yet thej
are far outnumbered by tho pongci
dresses of natural color. A very hcav
ily embroidered example of tlieso Is ai
the left in the next picture. Tromondou!
work is put upon such dresses, and often
the whole is entirely without relief ol
color. Tho all white idea is moro abun
dant in mull, and usually is ornato with
embroidery, often accompanied by liberal
supply of laces. The model shown bo
shies this dress last, described was fln
lshed with white silk embroidery, ship
rings and whlto silk tassels. Next to this
in the picture is a gown of whito taffoto,
touches of dark green coming at neck
and in the buttons. This dash of color
in tho otherwise all white dress is a new
touch. Pink often is the color, and may
bo used in moro liberal quantity than a
dash usually implies.
The choice of colors existing in dress
materials is remarkably wide. From
bright pinks and brilliant greens, to
white, soft grays and tans tho offorlnga
run, with women a-plenty, apparently,
to make choice of each item in tho long
list. She who keeps up a largo wardrobe
has a chance to make It fairly bewilder
ing in Its variety, and by tho same token
each woman who has but a fow drosses
has a flne chanco to have all remarkably
well suited to her. Side by side in the
nfext picture tho artist put a self-trimmed
gray liberty silk, And a green oud
bluo plaid silk, with Btltchod whlto silk
vest. Each was stylish in new manner,
the one in most quiet taste, the othci
counting as advanco interpretation of th
'Mjl""'!
V V -r -
JDITORIAL
Opinions of Great Papers on Important Subjects.
49
ii i mii m
t
Triumph of Forestry.
OGORDING to United States Consul Tourgee,
of Bordeaux, Uie growth of the "pin maritime,"
or marine pine, lu the Lnndcs and adjoining de
portments of Franco, "undoubtedly marks the
most remarkable achievement over wrought
by human agency in tho modification of natural
conditions of soil and climate for the bonellt
of mankind."
A century ago the region between tho Glrondo and
tho Pyrenees -was In most of Its extent "not only ono of
the most barren in the world, but apparently altogether
hopeless of reclamation." Sand dunos were advancing from
the sea at rates varying up to 1100 feet n year, swallowing
up fields, meadows, vineyards, houses, churches, villages,
and leaving nothing but a gray desert. The old forests had
been destroyed, and now nature was taking its revenge.
There seemed no hope for the heart of France, when It
occurred to Bromoutlor, a native of the threatened region,
that the devastation might bo nrrdsled by planting the
"pin maritime."
The Idea was submitted to Napoleon, who saw Its valuo
and ordered Its execution. Tho result, says Consul Tourgee,
has been tho greatest of his victories. "To-day the dark
squadrons of tho pin maritime aro posted on thousands of
sandy slopes, faithful guardians in tho shelter of which
the vineyards and Wheat Holds rest secure." Thoy give not
only protection, but prollt. "Lumber, llrowood, turpentine
and all the by-products of resinous distillation aro now pro
duced in such abundance here as not only to prevent the
need of importation, but to make southwest Franco a con
Hidernhle and profitable exporter." oven to tho United
States.
Meanwhile, by permitting tho reckless destruction" of
our own much richer long-lea fed plneS, which formerly pro
tooted our coasts and which asked only to bo lot alone, we
aro bringing upon ourselves the same desolation that threat
ened France a century ago. Milwaukee Free Press.
STYLISHLY SCANT OF COLOR.
on the skirt shirrings and pulllugs may
supply the sole trimming, even if tho
skirt be ono that ranks as lavishly orna
mented. Groups of shirrings arranged
In wary lines are pretty ornamentation,
and are especially effective when employ
ed with cord trimmings. Theso are but
a few of the many current uses o'f these
Hrrangements, which are made available
for almost everyone, while their beauty
Is enough in tho newer materials to tempt
those who hardly ought to resort to such
trimmings. But your adroit dressmaker
will so disposo of puffings that their full
ness will not bo a detriment to any ordi
nary figure, and as for shirrings, they arc
current liking for mating blue and green.
As different from either as each wui
from the other was tho biscuit cloth suit
displayed with them, with its trimming
of dark red silk. This is an oddly dis
similar trio, perhaps, yet in any stylish
gathering you're likely to seo Just such
strong contrasts side by sldo at any min
ute. Fnahlon Notes,
Snako plumes are oxqulsito in mauvo.
B'.s green gooseberries and little whita
roses combine on some modish millluory.
The colored linen gown is to bo lr
arrcnt favor for midsummer vogue, in
Our Cnd College Spelling.
UC1I Is said In the papors about collego En
gllsh. The people within and without college
walls declare that students wrlto badly. But
there Is a thlnir more fundamental thnn thoir
C7PW77)i poor English style; it is the matter of their
U2SSjbJ) spelling. Many college men, as proved by their
essiivs. cannot spell. They frequently make
tho mistake of transforming writing Into wrltting, and of
dining into dinning an echo probably of tho noise of a
collego dining room.
But poor spelling is not confined to collego students
Collego professors aro not free from the blame. A letter
lies before the writer in which the distinguished head of a
most important department In an American college do
dares that a certain candidate, whom ho has recommended
is "competant." , A New England college professor has
rpcontlv said that in making applications for a place in
English several candidates wrote of the salery. Of coursi
also, a man may lack culture and spell correctly. Spelling
Is more or less a matter of an arbitrary bit of knowledge
But whatever inn.v be the psychological relations of th
art, the schools should teach boys and girls to spell. By in
correct spelling the higher ranges of learning are rendered
less impressive. Leslie's Weekly.
awyer of exporienco knows that nltuost Invariably when
couples aro divorced there aro tho very boHt of reusons
why thoy should bo. Tho lnsido history of uuhnppy mar
riages, as old In tho prlvato ofllcea of attorneys, is some
thing appalling. Even tho ministers, who dual In theories
often instead of actualities, would stand aghast at tho
revelation.
Tho lndissolublo mnrrlugo of mlsmated men nnd women
would bo an unnecessary hardship which the people, whoso
inlluenco makes tho laws, would not stand. Nor Is It to
bo presumed that an Indissoluble tnarrlago law would make
any dliferonco in tho matter of hasty marriages. Tho
couple who embark on matrimony do not look forward to
or tako Into consideration tho matter of escapo, should tho
tlo become burdensonio. Tho thought of divorce, like ro
morso, comes later. Chicago Journal.
jrj
Tho Wonders of tho Wireless.
HE time Is coming when the ardent newsgath
erer will go to a hilltop, rig up a small Jointed
polo, point it heavenward, and read tho hap
penings of tho world on a dial; when tho cur
ious man will thrust his wireless instrument
into tho nssuro and pick therefrom the doings
of tho nations, But Just at present Uussla is
objecting, and raising questions ns to the legality of such
measures on tho part of tho Japaneso and British par
ticularly tho British, who have a fondness for getting au
thentic news no matter to whom It belongs. Uussla says
tho correspondent who purloins any wireless messages shall
bo troated as a spy. We pass up tho question of Just
how sho is to enforce nor doniands, seeing her navy is
mostly in winter quarters for tho war.
Everybody has an opinion about the woman who takes,
down tho recolvor on a "party line" and studies up on hor
neighbors. But here Is another problem: Is It gentlemanly,
according to International law, to speak over tho heads of
tlio censors, and, as tho Injured New York Times puts It,
"cast dispatches on tho uncovenantcd nirV"
Our own government does not fool called upon to sottlo
this little question. The Department of State prefers to
wait till some American citizen Is Involved before It decldcB
on tho Justice of the Russian claims. But this simply
means that public opinion will step In and determine whoth
er it 1b a breach of neutrality for a mau who has some
thing to tell to say It through tho atmosphere Instead of
by copper wire through a strictly guarded olllce. At present
the London Times, whose correspondent Is tho person in
evidence, prefers to speak of the. three-mile limit and neu
tral waters. It contends, with British mildness, that If tho
British Hag flies on tho correspondent's ship, there can bo
no question that It is all right. In the cabinets of tho
governments there Is pondering nnd palavering, and the
result may be a Joint note agreeing to the Russian con
tontlons. San Francisco Argonaut.
Jwj
MORE OF ASSERTIVE IIUE.
jald so flat wheir that Is desired that lack
bf slendemess is not thereby suggested.
All whlto dresses aro not nearly so
fcnany as thoy wero a year ago, but just
Jia one begins to think them quite out, 'a
gorgeously flne one appears, one that car
ries an unmistakable air of authority
With it Such a dress was the original
fastest shades, liko palo green, blue
mauve and yellow.
Ecru lawns aiul India linens are sub
stitutes for natural linen batiste and
grass cloth, and morcerized champagnes
ar'j substitutes for Shantung pongees mid
the other natural colored silks now w
much in vogue.
When Divorce Is Nol an Evil.
HOLES ALE and reckless denunciation of di
vorce, so often heard from the clergy, is not In
keeping with reason or with public policy.
Divorce is not always an evil. Often it is a
blessing.
The woman with a brute for a husband
would bo In sore straits, indeed, if there were
no escape through tho law from a union worse than death.
The wife who found herself hopelessly bound to n drunken.
sot might well despair if sho could find no relief In dlvorcu
laws.
In most States of the Union divorce Is not so easy to
procure as the ministers would Intimate. Most State laws
provide that there must be good and sufllclont reasons be
fore a husband nnd wife can be legally separated. Every
Politeness nnd Crime.
,UR language and vocabulary, with our grow
ing slackness, are changing. Wo aro carrying
things (otherwise Insupportable) with a laugh,
and coining phrases for tho purpose. As has
been said, wo aro still sensitive to such coarse
words as "thief" and "steal," but it is vain
to deny among ourselves that certain unchal
lenged doings of to-day forcibly suggest those forms. So,
we save our face with an Indulgent gayety not devoid of
humor. Wo give a twist and a turn to the rapidly changing
English language, and the ugly words disappear In tho
process. When a conductor steals a fare we Jocularly
remark that ho Is "knocking down on the company;" whwa
we steal a ride from the same company and conductor wo
laughingly refer to our success In "beating the game;" whoa
wo bribe we merely "Inlluonce" or "square things;" when
we are bribed we collect "assessments" or "rebates" or
"commissions" or "retainers," and so on until we reach a
grave definition of "honest graft," which would be mora
humorous if so many people did not feel that the term sup
plied tlA'in with a long-felt want. Now, these expressions'
and others like them may bear a strong resemblance to
thieves' slang, but they merely reflect the language of a
people unconsciously retreating to a lower moral level.
Everybody's Magazine.
IN A TIBET NURSERY.
Rock-ii-bj'-UnlylBin in the ForcstB of
This Little-Known Country.
C.ir first meeting witli tho Slfans
presented, many ludicrous features,
says a writer in Collier's Weekly. Wo
wero plunging through the gloom of
the forest when our ears wore assailed
witli a concourse of yells which echoed
through the supernatural silence with
ghostly welrdnesB. In this forbidding
wilderness we had not looked for signs
of human habitation, so hastily ar
ranging ourselves in position wo pre
pared ourselves for what seemed an
Inevitable hostile attack. Long and
anxiously wo awaited tho onslaught
of our supposed hidden assailants,
when again the peace-disturbing sound
echoed almost, It seemed, over our very
heads. Glancing upwnnl Hie mystery
was soon explained, iorTn tlio lower
branches of the free we could descry
numerous small bundles, each too largo
for any eyry and too small for a wind
fall. Both my Klangsi and Glmrlkntiosc
escort, with their superstitious nntures
roused by these ghostlike sounds, vis
ibly paled beneath their dusky skins,,
and gazed furtively round in order to'
seek means of escape from this en
chanted spot. Even I was not a little
puzzled and awed until, peering moro
closely, I became aware of tho fact
that the disturbing elements which
had caused so much concern aroso
from tho fact that we had unwittingly
stumbled upon an liborlglnul nursery,
PROOF OF THE NECESSITY FOR IRONCLADS.
Ilelplesiiicas of the Wooden Ships "Auuinemnon" and "Snnspnrcil" Under thi
Shcll-Flrc ot the Scbnstopol Forts, 1854.
and that the weird and ghostlike
sounds emanated from several hungry
and lusty-lunged infants. Then tho
solemn Stillness was broken by our
heartjf laughter, tho ICiangsi and
Glulrlkaucso, as if to make amends for
their credulous fears, linking tho
woods ring with thoir forced guffaws.
Tho SiCan Tibetans, as wo subse
quently learned, place their children
in skin cradles and nang these from
tho trees In the fqrosts near to thoir
villages, for tAVo reasons tho first,
from a belief that. they " will bo in
structed by the deities; tho second
that their full existence may not b
endangered by the abominable lilt
Mind squalor of tho settled regions. Soa
oral times In the day they are vlsite
by their mothers, who provido tliei
with food and romnin with thorn du
ing the night, and in this forest hoir
tho child romnlns until It Is 2 or
years old nnd has grown strong an
healthy enough to stand the rigors
hardship and disease.
The incubator relieves tho old In
of u lot of responsibility.
hi
( 11
Ti
1-
1
I M I,