V
Prominent Style Features in Gowns
The most attractive of tho now
gowns already displayed for the com
ing winter, are characterized by the
long straight lines that belong to the
eemlfltting princess, and by the In
spiration of tho Russian blouse. Com
blnatlons of two materials In the same
gown are worked out In one-piece
frocks made of cloth and silk, or cloth
and velvet. Buttons and braids and
sashes of the same fabrics as the
gown appear with such frequency that
they are assured a place in the com
ing season's fashions.
In suits there are numbers of se
verely plain and perfectly tailored de
signs, tho coats semlfltting, with the
skirt portion showing a ripple or full
flaro. Dark cloths are chosen for
these. The skirts, whllo amply full,
are not decidedly flaring but they are
decidedly short.
Tho Russian idea is developed with
fine success in the various pile fabrics
used for dressier suits. Many novel
ties in the light weight plushes and
fur cloths, as well as plain velvet,
promise much for the popularity of
this stylo.
One of tho handsomest of these
Two of the New High
Two out of many beautiful specimens
in footwear for fall are pictured hero.
They are combinations of cloth and
leather in high boots for Btreet wear,
and aro among the most conservative
of tho now designs. They aro trim,
shapely and neat, with everything In
style and finish to recommend them.
The very short skirts, which, in
many Instances glimpse tho stockings
abovo tho boot-tops, make smart dress
ing of tho feet imperativo. Now foot
wear embodies many styles In which
contrasting colors aro used with up
pers mado of cloth and tho remainder
of the shoo In dull finish or In patent
kid. But tho colors used for tops aro
quiet, with various tan and gray shades
predominating. Tho dark colors which
are correct for tailored gownB aro used
in the uppers for shoes to match. Or
for midwinter wear spats like tho
tailored gown aro to bo worn with
black shoes.
Among tho fancier shoes aro thoso
without seams mado of light tan, black
or bronzo leathers, that laco on tho
Inside. Tho leather uppers seem to
suits is shown in the picture. Tin
skirt is full and plaited and reachee
to the shoo tops. It is made of a
plain, light weight, silky plush with
an overdrapery of a striped plush of
tho same color. Tho strlpo is mado
by a dlfferenco in the direction of the
pile and not by a difference In color.
The coat is tho regulation Russian
model buttoning to the side. It ia
worn with a belt of patent leather.
In the management of the collar
and cuffs the designer has introduced
an individual touch. A narrow "V"
shaped collar is attached to the blouse
apparently by high buttons. It sup
ports a wide turnover about the sides
and back.
The wide turned-back cuffs slope
outward and the edges are curved for
ward. A row of buttons finishes each
of them.
The long sash ends of self fabric
which appear on many of the new
gowns merit much consideration. Bo
sldes their pleasing novelty they are
graceful and give opportunity for very
effective decoration which adds much
to the finish of a frock or suit.
Boots for Street Wear
bo in one piece stretched to tit tho
foot. They suggest a close-fitting
boot llko those worn by men ill days
gone by.
Even more daringly masculine aro
tho short Cossack boots with their or
namental turnover band at tho top.
Thoy aro fascinating achievements in
footwear and nro steadily gaining
hoadway, appearing with more fre
quency on the promenado than at any
time slnco their introduction.
Very light shades- In tan aro
liked for all-leather street boots, to
bo worn with suits In any dark color.
Tho Cossack boot ought to appear with
greater frequency as tho season ad
vances rnd Russian street suits, fur
trimmed, como moro nnd more Into
vogue,
JULIA BOTTOMLEY.
Borax for Colored Linens.
Tho delicate shades of tho now
fashlonablo colored linens may bo
kept from fading by using plenty of
puro pulverized borax In tho water in
which they aro washed and rinsed.
THE SEMI-WEEKLY TRIBUNE.
NO IIHffl ON
15 BERLIN REPLY
Noje to American Government
Expresses Deep Regret
for Deaths.
MISTAKE IS NOT ADMITTED
Belief of Submarine Commander That
Liner Was About to Attack Him
Held by Germany to Justify
His Action.
Washington, Sept. 13. Germany's
noto to tho United States bearing on
the sinking of tho White Star lino
steamer Arabic on August lit, which
was communicated to tho American
ambassador, James W. Gerard, for
transmission to Washington, is in tho
form of a memorandum under dnto of
September 7, tho text of which Ib as
follows:
On August 19 a Gorman submarlno
stopped tho English steamer Dunsloy
about sixteen nautical mlleB south of
Klnsalo and was on the point of sink
ing tho prize by gunllro after tho
crew had loft tho vessel. At this mo
ment the commander saw a largo
steamer, as developed later, tho Ara
bic. Sho was recognized as an enemy
vessel, as she did not lly any nag and
boro no neutral markings.
When sho approached sho altered
her original course, but then again
pointed directly toward the submarine.
From this the commander became con
vinced that tho steamer had tho in
tontion of attacking and ramming him.
In order to antloipato this attack ho
gave orders for tho submarlno to dlvo
and fired, a torpedo at tho steamer.
After firing ho convinced himself that
tho people on board wcro being res
cued In 15 boats.
According to his instructions, tho
commander was not allowed to attack
tho Arabic without warning and with
out saving the lives unless the ship at
tempted to escapo or offered resist
ance. Ho was forced, however, to con
clude from tho attendant circum
stances that tho Arabic planned a vio
lent attack on tho submarine.
This conclusion Is all the moro ob
vious as ho had been fired upon at a
great distance In tho Irish sea on Au
gust 14 that is, a few days before
by a large passenger steamer, appar
ently belonging to tho British Royal
Mall Steam Packet company, which ho
had neither attacked nor stopped.
The German government most deep
ly regrets that lives wero lost through
tho action of the commander. It par
ticularly expresses this regret to tho
government of the United States on
account of tho death of American citi
zens. The German government Is unable,
however, to acknowledge any obliga
tion to grant indemnity In tho matter,
even if the commander should havo
been mistaken as to tho aggressive In
tentlons of the Arabic.
If it should prove to bo the case that
It is impossible for tho German and
American governments to reach a hnr
monlous opinion on this point, tho Gor
man government would be prepared to
submit the difference of opinion, as be
Ing a question of international law, to
The Hague tribunal for arbitration,
pursuant to article 38 of The Hague
convention for tho pacific settlement
of International disputes.
In so doing it assumes that as a mat
ter of course tho arbitral decision Bhall
not bo admitted to have tho impor
tance of a general decision on tho per
missiblllty or the converso under in
ternational law, of German submarine
warfare.
FIRST TO SCALE HIGH PEAK
Party of University Students Make a
Record in Mountain Climbing in
California.
Fighting their way to the top of
Half Dome, tho most inaccessible
point on nny of tho mountains about
tho Yosomito valley, A. C. Pillsbury
and 17 college students spent a night
on tho summit and mado tho descent
tho next day.
Tills is tho first timo on record that
a party of tourists has over scaled tho
mountain and reached tho top of tho
domo. Tho summit Is 9,500 feet abovo
sea level and tho last 1,000 feet of tho
climb was mado with ropo ladders
Tho grade is said to avorago 75 per
cent.
The domo rises hundreds of feet
abovo a massivo rock on tho top of the
mountain proper. The rock itself Is
1,000 feet high. Tho overhanging rock
at tho summit of tho dome projects
out from the wall 80 feet and sticks
eight feet out Into a yawning space
Thoro Is a sheer drop of 3,000 foot
from this point.
Tho party spent one night on tho
point nnd built a hugo bonfire that
lighted up tho surrounding heights for
miles, to tho delight of many tourists
on tho floor of tho valley who had ob
served tho climbers through field
glasses during tho afternoon. At raid
night tho bonfire was pushed over the
point, making tho longest stream of
falling flro in tho history of tho state
Six girls wore In tho party. All of
them are studentB of Stanford unlver
slty.
ARABIC
mm
NORTH PLATTE, NEBRASKA.
NEW MARBLE
vorkmcu putting in new marble
time and the weathor had rendered
AMERICAN
Taking a lesson from tho ruses
ties of America aro exporlmentlngnvith tho "cloak of Invisibility" Idea. Tho
boat Tripp painted to resemble tho waves.
SEARCHLIGHT FOR
One of the German field searchlights which aro so useful in guard
ing against nttackB from tho air. The olllcor in tho loft foreground Is observ
ing an enemy neroplano, his instructions being sent by tho telographor at
his sldo to tho nearest artillery position.
BADGE ON THE
Badge of tho Ladles Auxiliary or tho Grand Army of tho Republic, formed
of llowors on tho lawn of tho capltol at Washington. The plants wcro put
in last April, so tho design would bo ready for tho G. A. R. oncampmont.
STEPS FOR CAPITOL
stops at tho capltol at Washington to
unsightly.
NAVY TRYING FOR 'INVISIBILITY"
practiced by. tho navies of tho warring
AERIAL DEFENSE
CAPITOL LAWN
AT WASHINGTON
roplaco tho old sandstono stops which
nations of Europe, tho naval authori
photograph shows tho U. S. torpedo
CONGRATULATING A VICTOR
King Ludwig of Bavaria lat left)
congratulating tho notod Austrlnn
commander, General von Boohm
Ermolll, who won high honors in tho
drlvo of tho Teutonic armies through.
Russian Poland.
Norman Tower Laid Bare.
A London lottor sayB thoro has boeji
a curious result of ono of tho fires
caused by suffragottOB In 1914. The
firo in question practically destroyed
tho historic (church of St. Mary at
Wnrgravo, near Ilonloy, which, among
othor interesting objects, contained
tho tomb of Thomas Day, tho author.
Tho Church 1b now bolng rebuilt. In'
tho restoration of tho towor it was
found that tho present casing of rod
brick is only a covering for tho origi
nal Normnn tower. Tho lattor proves
to bo a very fine oxamplo of Norman
architecture ono of tho best. In tho
opinion of exports, existing in Eng
land. When the towor was cased with red
brick Is a mystery, but tho work was
probably done In tho reign of Henry
VII or that of Henry VIII. Among oth
or discoveries mado as a result of tho
performnnco of tho suffragette "arson
squad" are a number of vaults under
tho chancel, of which no ono had
guessed tho existence.
Plate Removes Tarnish.
Thoro has Jimt been put upon tho
markot a metal plato that removes
tarnish from silver In a fow secondB.
It Is a thin shoot mado of a combina
tion of metals; this Ib put into a dish
of hot water in which two tablespoon
fills of washing soda havo been dis
solved; tho silver is Immersed in such.'
a way that at least ono ploco of It
touches tho plato, then is taken out,!
rinsed and wiped dry. Tho dish In1
which tho operation Is performed must'
bo of glass,, porcolaln or enamoled
metal; If tho lattor tho enamel must
not have been broken,
mans