The North Platte semi-weekly tribune. (North Platte, Neb.) 1895-1922, December 18, 1914, Image 11

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The Remodeled Dress
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VEN the poor child of today has
moro In his Christmas stocking
than the prosperous child
circa moil of In tho first century
of whlto occupation of this coun
try. Illnso boys and girls who
can hardly think of anything now
for which to ask tho generous
saint can hardly conceivo of tho
baroness of those early Christ
inns holidays.
In Massachusetts It was tho worst of all, for
keeping Christmas was denounced ns a pernicious
custom, and any child daring to think of ns much
ns n plum pudding on that day would mnke him
self liable to reproof by tho authorities. All along
tho stern nnd rockbound coast tho only Christmus
trees in tho days of tho Puritan domination wore
thoso that nature had planted thero and had
adorned In December with ileecy snow.' Tho fires
burned brightly on tho open hearths, but thero
was no Invitation to tho good saint to doscend tho
chimney when tho embers had burned low. As
far ns tho children knew, Chrlstmns was Just like
nny other day in tho cnlendnr. Even after tho
Puritan reaction against tho forms and customs
of tho old church had spent Itself to somo extent
tho children of tho seventeenth century still ex
pected no gifts In honor of the birthday of Christ
In New Amsterdnm the outlook was a little bet
ter for the children. Tho Hollanders hnd brought
with tfiem their St. Nicholas, and his birthday
was celebrated joyously by young and old Just
boforo Chrlstmns, but this day was kept, too, by
tho Protestant Dutch as heartily ns by nny Catho
lics. Of course, they had not many real toys as
we know thorn today, but in the shoes that tho Ut
ile Hollanders set by tho fireplace in the shining
kitchen, which was also tho living room, wero
bomo-mado sweets and cakes and home-mado
gifts. Many of these were of a useful character,
such ns hand-knit caps nnd mittens, but now and
then a skillful Hollander would carvo a model of
a boat such as that which had brought them to
New Amsterdam or a miniature chest of drawers,
and one can fancy the recipients showing theso
with pride to tho wondering littlo Indian boys
and girls when they camo to bo on terms of suf-
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flcieut amity with them for such conferences.
In Virginia, where the Church of England was
strong and its adherents stondfnsMv nlisnrvnd Mm
V, holidays as in tho home country, there was al-
ways more of the Christmas spirit and abundant
cheer and merrymaking than elsewhere at this
season. Hero tho Yulo log held its place and
hero wero tho games and the feasting that made
It indeed tho merry season of tho year. Later
when New Amsterdam became Now York nnd
tho English came into power the character of tho
Christmas holiday was changed again somewhat,
although tho Dutch influence continued dominant
for many years.
Owing to the large number of Germans in Penn
sylvania Christmas thero partook largely of tho
nature of the festival In the fatherland. It was
largely a family affair. The children for months
before the day of tho Nativity saved their pennies
and bought material from which they fashioned
their gifts for their parents and for one another.
Thoso wore presented on Christmas eve, and tho
next clay tho parents In turn spread out their pres
ents for tho children on a largo table in the best
room. Stockings wero hung, too, and the good
children had them filled with sweetmeats, pepper
cakes and other goodies, but thoso who had been
bad sometimes found n birch rod as a Christmas
gift. There was one custom that was fraught
with great terror to children. Ono Knecht Rupert
went from house to house inquiring about tho
children on Christmas ove and recommending re
wards or punishments according to tho reports
that he received of their conduct during tho year.
Tho Pennsylvania Snnta Claus was popularly
known ns Kriss Kringle, a corruption of Christ
kindleln, the little Christ.
Throughout the colonies in tho seventeenth and
eighteenth centuries toys wero an almost un
known factor, but wherever Christmas observ-
k inces were not frowned upon by religion feasting
nnd good cheer were abundant, nnd bond nnd free,
rlr-h and poor, old nnd young shared In the games,
abundant food nnd genial atmosphere. Not only
did tho munificence of thoso who wero well sup
plied with worldly goods extend to their depend
ents nnd to nil within reach of their charity, but
In somo places even tho animals had an extra
allow mice of food to let them know that Christ
inas had come again.
In tho eighteenth century toys began to mnko
their appearance In tho colonies. Somo of them
were brought from overseas and had the enchant
ing quality of novelty. Littlo girls who had helped
to mother their younger brothors and sisters wero
delighted with dolls that woro nil their own to
dress nnd undioss, to fondle nnd coddle, punish
nnd reward. Simple and quaint wore thoso early
dolls, liko tho children they bolonged to. Ono
can fancy tho surprise and terror of tho timid
when they first beheld a Jack Jump into tho air
when an innocent looking box was opened. A toy
was a thing to bo chorlshed In thoso days. It
wan Indeed a wondrous saint who could bring
such things in his. pack. Somo of the gifts woro
nf real intrinsic value, for tho shipping and trad
dm were growing to bo Importunt factors In tho
olimlcs, and mon brought ti ensures of all kinds
from tho Far Kast to tho sonports, whonco thoy
cero distributed to other pnrts of tho coIoiiIob.
Tho war for Indopondoneo Interrupted this anil
tt,e childron shared In tho sslf-sncriflcos and da
privations that woro
uudorgono by all tho
families living In tho
colonics at that time.
When soldiors wero
starving at Valley
Forgo thero was lit
tlo thought In their
homes fo.r Christmas
merrymaking and lit
tlo to do It with.
After tho war there
wero still lean years,
but by tho opening
of tho nineteenth
century peaco and
plenty smiled upon
the lnnd and Santa Claus found It safe to resume
his visits and mako tho distributions. Ilo still
met with n few frowns In New England, but for
tho most part ho was welcomed In homes of
varying degrees everywhere. Thero wero no
steam pipes or hot-air registers in thoso days and
tho chimneys wero still hospitable. Tho saint
had to increase tho slzo of his pack and get a
now sleigh to accommodato tho Increased variety
and number of gifts for distribution, and whereas
two reindeer had boon entirely adequate for draw
ing Ills load In tho eighteenth century ho now had
to add two at a time every few years.
Another war camo along, but this time Santa
Clnus decided that he did not need to go out of
business; but he found a new kind of toy appro
priate to tho timo which proved wonderfully ac
ceptable to tho patriotic young Americans. Enter
tho wooden soldier In his painted uniform. Hap
py tho boy who found a company of theso on.
Christmas morning. Sometimes ho might oven
get a toy cannon or a warship something like
thoso that wero used in tho stirring engagements
of tho wnr. Tho littlo girls of tho period woro so
expert with tho needlo that they could make flags
and oven littlo uniforms for tho toy soldiers.
In tho hundred years since that timo thero has
been a mighty development In tho toy armaments,
and all sorts of figures and Implements have been
evolved until at tho present timo a fortunate boy
of tho twentieth century may havo a sulllclent
military and naval equipment to carry on a real
war with another boy whoso fighting forco Is
equally Impressive. Tho warships and torpedo
boats are exact models of real ones, and -omo of
them can float upon tho water in all tho majosty
of fighting vessels. Their equipment is perfect,
too, oven to tho wireless apparatus and dovlccs
for saving as well as for destroying ltfo. Ashoro
thero nro forts of tho latest construction and
fighting men of all nationalities.
Ono of tho latest achievements in tho Christ
mas toys Is In tho aerial apparatus. From box
kites to real aeroplanes that will whiz through
tho air thero is everything that tho boy who has
watched real airships and longed to fly ono him
self can deslro to possess. Somo of thom aro al
most largo onough to accommodate St. Nicholas
himself. Evon tho railways accommodato them
solveB to the exigencies of warfare. Tho railways
and their equipment aro tho last word In tho up-to-date
toys for fortunate children. With tho
training thoy furnish thero should bo developed n
race of engineers, managers and presidents of
railroads In the future. The most complete sets
that Santa Claus brings In 1914 have tracks that
can bo Intel straight away and In curves, going
through tunnels, having Improved signals nnd up
todato stations. There nro electric and steam
trains, coaches for several classes, baggago and
freight cars indeed everything required for tho
demands of travel nnd trnfllc.
If a boy hns no tasto for tho dotalls of rail
roading he may bo interested In moving pictures,
and Santa Claus has a fino assortment of appara
tus of that kind, somo of it simple enough for
almost nnjono to oporato and splendid for utiliz
ing plcturo post cards or tho photographs mado
with tho camera, which Is ono of tho favorlto
articles in tho Christmas pack.
Somo persons say that Santa Clnus has dis
carded his reindeer and pack and taken to using
an nutomobllo until tho aeroplane,
which ho expects to havo ready soon,
Is perfected. In nny enso, ho cnrrles
automobiles of varying sizes for boys
who long to run their own cars How
ho ever gets them Into tho houso Is a
mystery, for somo of tho delivery
wngons and other machines aro largo
enough to nccommodato n good-sized
There nro so many things for girls
nowndnys that dolls do not occupy
qulto as Important n- placo In the
Christmas Btocking ns
at ono time, yet thero
is nothing that qulto
takes their placo In the
affections of n real girl
And whnt stunning
dolls thoy aro today!
Dolls that roproscnt
every phnso of llfo,
from baby dolls with
their completo layettes
to perfectly grown-up
dolls with claborato
wardrobes and trunks
to pack them away In.
Tho handsomest and
newest dolls como from
n German studio. No
two nro alike, and they
nro real portrait dolls
of North of Europe chll
dren In quaint costume.
Theso lovely dolls cost
$11, but Santa Claus
never counts the cost
when he Is going somu
plnce. An alluring
French doll says, "Take mo by the hand nnd 1
will walk with you," and she does.
For tho littlo children a woolly sheep used to
be a delightful toy in tho latter pnrt of tho Inst
contury, and when dogB nnd bears that would
actually walk were found on Chrlstmns morning
thero wns a howl of delighted admiration. Now
thero aro lambs and dogs of llfo slzo and ponies
ns big ns tho real ones, nnd all sorts of largo ani
mals with the coats like the natural animal. Thoy
nil walk and move about and uct their partB per
fectly. Whatever father and mother havo Is duplicated
for tho children besides tho thousand nnd ono
things that aro devised especially for their amuse
ment. All through tho year tho Ingenious folk
aro working overtlmo In nil tho toy shopB of tho
world to turn out tho load for Santa Claus to
carry to tho fortunato children who look for him
on Christmas ovo, 1911.
A flguro everywhere dominant In the eclobra
tlon of Christmas In tho mlddlo ages was that o(
tho Lord of Misrulo, also called tho Master ol
Merry Disports. In Scotlnnd this samo mastei
of tho rcvols was known as tho Abbot of Unrca
son, whllo In Franco his tltlo was vory much the
same "Abbns Stultorum" or Abbot of Fools
Tho king, tho great lords of his realm and othoi
important personages must needs nppoint such
a leader and organizer of their Christmas fcstlvi
ties. In Scotland, previous to tho Reformation
the monasteries used to elect such a functionary,
but in 15BC a law was passod for tho suppression
of tho Abbot of Unreason, along with all the
other burlesquo and fantastic features of the
Christmas celebration.
Tho barons and knights kept open houso at
Christmas time for a fortnight. Itevolry reigned
throughout this period, and on Christmas day the
grand feast, given by tho feudal chloftnln to his
friends and rotainors, took place with great pomp
and magnificence. Tho bonr's head was first and
foremost on tho board, and its entranco to tho
banqueting room wns horalded by a groat blare
of joyful trumpets. Porno on a gold or sllvci
platter by the servor at tho head of n procession
of nobles, knights and ladles, tho foromost dish
of tho feaBt mado tho round of tho hall to morry
minstrelsy. When it wns finally given its place
rosemary and liny wero sprend around it, a pippin
wns placed on Its tusk and a mammoth pot ol
mustard closo at hand.
The boar's head was put down by act of parlla
merit In tho timo of tho commonwealth, and nftet
that, although It was officially freed of tho ban, it
never qulto recovered its former placo as a part
or the Christmas feast.
Tho peacock dish was next In Importanco to
tho boar'a head. This bird somotlmes appeared
at tho board with all its feathers on and its beak
gilded, its skin having boen removed beforo cook
ing and carefully readjusted after It was ready
for tho tablo. ,
"Provhlenco Intended mo for a lender of fash
Ion." "Provldenco intended you for a fool."
"Well, whether Provldenco did or not you got
HERE Is a lot of comfort to bo had i
out of a remodeled dress It seems, 1
nnd Is, wasteful to discard a perfect
1" good garment, that has nothing tho
matter with it, except that somo now
idea in outline lias como in nnd dis
placed that on which it was built.
Tho Houso of being economical Is sol
acing, and when a remodeled gown
has all the earmarks of a splck-and-spnn.
up-tc-tho hour flow model, tho
Joy of the nverago woman is com
plete. Sho has achieved economy and
style at tho samo time.
This season tho incoming of tho
tunic, tho vogue for thin bIoovos, tho
wide glrdlo and tho girdlo mado of tho
fabric of tho dress havo all played Into
tho hands or her who Is determined to
romodol her gowns lnstoad of discard
ing them. Skirts sot on tho yokes
havo helped out, too, for tho skin, too
narrow nt tho bottom has been cut
oil whero It begnn to nnrrow, nnd tho
mlsBlng length provided for by a
smoothly fitting yoke. Thnnks to tho
fickle, but not ulwnys unkind goddess
of fashion, Bhort skirts aro tho prop
er thing for tho strcot, and somo of
tho bottom edgo may bo trimmed
away from those that show Blgns of
Then thero Is tho skirl with tho bat
tlement odgo nt tho bottom, that Is,
skirts Blushed Into shallow, straight
edged scallops about tho bottom edge,
sometimes bound with braid. This
ono alteration gives an up-to date
touch to Inst year's gown.
A straight, plain underskirt of satin,
woin under a cloth tunic, has solved
tho problem of changing many cloth
and velvet drosbes of last winter Into
styles Introduced for tho present sea
son. Tho tunic of plaited cnlffon
worn over the skirt of last year's silk
gown and tho introduction of a wide
glrdlo about tho wnlst havo helped
out Immensely In altering afternoon
Nothing has been moro helpful to
the economically inclined than the
vory fashionable bund trimmings
of fur and fur clotlm, Ily means of
those tunics have been lengthened,
thu fashionable collars nnd cuffs In
troduced on Jnckots, pretty turbans
to match suits mado possible. All tho
pattern books abound In suggestions
for clover romodollng.
An attractlvo dress shown In tho
plcturo may bo copied, using a last
year's dross ns a foundation If tho
owner had tho forethought to buy a
littlo oxtra longth of goods with a
view to remodeling her gown. Where
a provision of this kind has not
boen made, it Is best to mako an un
derskirt of Biitln and convert tho cloth
skirt Into a tunic. Or if thu cloth
skirt Is very nnrrow tho underskirt
mny bo finished with a panel or satin
up the front and tho cloth tunic sot
in nt each sldo f this.
Vory wide silk braids aro fashion
able for trimming, and, like tho bands
of fur and fur cloth, havo boen most
useful In tho remodeling of gowns.
At the Ribbon Counter
"Thero novor was a woman who didn't gub
about her neighbors," growled Mr. Onbh.
"Oh, yen thero was," replied Mrs. Gnbb.
"Thnt's right." commented Mr. Qabb, "I forgot
about Eve."
Frenchman This impertinent Yankee slapped
my face.
Wife Well, why don't you do something?
FrenchmanHow can I? I don't know how to
talk English. Lo Illro,
IT is hard to pnss tho guy ribbon
counters and the show cuhos full of
this year's offerings for the liolliluys.
Tho vory Drat thing to catch tho eyo
is tho heaps of half-opened roses,
made of satin ribbon set in small
millinery foliage. Thoy aro mostly In
Amoilrau Beauty colors, hut there are
Borne pink and a few rich yellow ones.
The stems are wound with narrow
green ribbon nnd a stream of silver
half-dollars flows Inward as a stream
of roses flows outward as they change
hands. Tho Blnglo roso pinned closo
up to the nock or on tho shoulder Is
being worn by smart women and many
of them bought ns gifts for friends.
Next ono notices tho neckbands of
velvet ribbon which havo a ruff of lace
or nmllno at tho back and fasten un
der a roso or two small buds, at ono
side. Sometimes tho ruff Is In black
and sometimes In whlto.
Ilelow in tho show cases nro tho now
bags made of tho richest brocadud
ribbons. Among thorn that ono shown
in tho plcturo la of whlto satin fig
ured with splendid An orlcan Boun
ties In thu natural colorings. It Is
moderate In slzo and plain and tho
ioses could hardly bo moro llfollko on
a painted canvas. This 1b ono of many
beautiful bagB brought out for hollduy
Roman striped ribbons havo been
used to mako tho handsomo collar and
cuff seta with which women brighten
up their dark cloth tailored milts. The
collar and ono cuff of a sot is shown
in the picture. Pretty standing collars
of fhesu striped ribbons aro mado by
folding tho ribbons lengthwlso so that
ono odgo Is about an Inch higher thnn
tho other and laying the folded edge
Into box plaits. Tlio plaits aro stitched
down near the bottom and In another
linn of stitching nn Inch or moro
higher. Tho plaits do not extend
across tho front but form a ruff at tho
sides and back. Tho ribbon Is laid
in folds acrosB tho front and fastens
at tho loft sldo under a row of littlo.
flat sllk-covored buttons. Thu buttons
uro repeated on the right sldo.
Many protty ornaments for the
dressing tnblo In tho form or pincush
ions grace tho holiday ribbon counter,
and there aiu the usual beautiful
girdles and sashes in greater numbers
than over.
Lnco Is a vory important factor in
tho costume of tho day. Not only dous
it form Ilouncos and frills ontlroly cov
ering thu boillco and skirt, hut it
mukes modorn or ancient lannots and