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THROUGH A LAND OF
CANALS
Xejvjwsj
ROM Antwerp to Rotterdam is loss
than three hours by the rnllB, tiut on
tho little steamer wlilch crawlB
through tho crooks, canalH mid taken
of Zealand It Is a full day
Como, steep yournolf In sober lux
ury In an ntmosphero of self-respect
and much peaco mid dampness
Tho steamer starts In tho cold half
dawn with nil tho Antwerp stretch of
rivor lights burning an ornngo yellow
Aftor two bourn of tonic shivering
you nen thu Htm across h Hat und fertile land, a big
red huh which you may look at without blinking
Thero Ih n mighty river flowing full nnd broad be
twoeii low bnnkH with flcnttored trcos. You glide
Into canalH lined to tho water's edgo with grass mid
btitlerctipB, enlivened with groups of flshora in trou
norH of tho strangost cutH, who Btand chatting with
tho keepers of tho locks and drinking healths In
ichnappH.
Tho trousorH aro bloomnrn, not unllko tho knlrk
ors of tho fair whou full built (Hpeaklng of thu
knlckcrB), nnd thoy wear round knit caps of vivid
greon. OthorB, more sober, wear bomb-Bbaped caB
quottCH of o rati go volvet ouibroldered with black
silk
Jttv&rMZ) awy. jirzteiY -sfflrJwSST
m timtwzmmw1 ;in immmmmu. mmmtwmRrmm&mm
(WmL JrrTsJZ&A n n Q JaS---g . L dry with bath lowel-
BTl;-j!-H7T. r.TT-rr. ryffKrf r ''' ""ffPWHiWil Tll sloping Btono
BBBB?i Ag'r"'' Itf.JiLvTHHIBl ',,,eB nre mopped ev-
BBJSJ flfey ',: j,'i. iiBMillBr' MuMBnBU' cry norning between
KMi 81 ffiBHMHMMHMHnJTllTff! PNIMmV 7 and 0 o'clock. Tiled
J
ijSWiife
VGKD& TJUK.ia&mtBJ&r
Tho captain promised breakfast In five min
utes. That yaB an hour und twonty mlnutcB ago..
Tho second cabin paBBengors aro drinking gin.
Tho captain nnyB tho brcnkfaBt only waits for
Bomo cow to bo milked near a lock.
Tho boat Is still in a canal between high banks,
which thrust on tho vlow tho ankles of tho vll
lago glilu who stand along tho odgo nnd look
down philosophically, knitting; for tliolr skirts
aro very boll-Bljapod. Tho village glrlB nro all
houottoB ngainst tho Bky. Then n ono-horso gig,
with yellow whools and a greon box, flits by
iiiyBtorlously and disappears behind tho rldgo.
And tboro Ih nothing more.
Ah, yes, it ralno.
Tho Bleamor crawjB thtough tho canal, Imped
ed by the locks nnd dams. Hero is nnothor
Dutch girl, She la standing on tho bank above
our henda ns wo doscond, a Dutch girl In n white
dturched porcalo cap, cream-colored korchlof
crossed upon her breast, with a black bodlco, a
.blue skirt, wooden shoes and blue stockings.
Tho boat is iti a narrow river onco again, with
mconory grcon and clean, with awoot offocts of
light tn thia peculiar air n milky, velvety light
near a comic opera villago, Morn village girls,
thu milk and blush rosa blondos of Zealand, with
their silky masses of palu gulden hair, Immacu
lately clean. Thoy look so solid, tight and tidy,
do those little Dutch girls in tholr stiff bodices,
Out in tho open Ooestor Slcelt, three miles
Across, tho yellow brownish water scarcely mnrka
Itself against tho banks of yollow grcon, low
dlkos, with long, long lines of trees, whoso roots
assist to hold tho soil togothor.
' Wo hug tho edge. Along the bank thoro
'coughs and snorts a dinky little ancient auto
mobile. As It 11 earn we see It U conducted by n
pretty girl in white. Shu looks llko a brldo!
Tho villagers run out, rejoicing. Who la shu?
"What Is it? What Is ho? Mystory.
Wo Btcam onward. Now, thoro aro always
those lung lines of trace that stand llko a grim
regiment to dofuat tho floods of tho encroaching
nuu It 1b tho Vordronkcn I-nnd, where thousands
polished villages nnd towns and all tho country
ulde tn 1532, when a dlku burBt.
Thero Is a short Canal do Keotuu
At a vlllngo whom tho captain atops to got
Ills hair cut it fair bumbont girl sella ua schnapps.
Then tho little stcamor qultn thu subdivisions of
tho Scholdo, meandorB through tho mazes of tho
WaaB, comes through tho Krammor nnd tho Vol
feoruk to tho wtdo Hollandsch Dlep, which has
tough water and looks almost liko tho sea. Onco
this bay was land, but long ago, In 1421, a tldnl
Avnvo wiped out a hundred market towns and vil
lages, and upward of 100,000 pooplo porlshod,
and tho water stayed,
Then Boon It 1b tho Httlo Dorocho Kll, a very
narrow Btroam (whoro tho Prlnco of Orangu was
drownod in 1711), which takes us to tho broad
and lovoty Morwcdo, a doublo rlvor, whoro tho
windmills of tho landscape and tho buBy villages
proclaim tho land of Holland ono baa read of.
Now 'it is raining. , Dort, or Dordrecht is tho
first lino town. It is tho cleanest land! Tho very
cows aro scrubbed down with soap and rubbed
'roofs of a soft red
rlso like llowcra umld
tht foliage of tho
trees; thatched roofs
of a dove tint go slop
ing down cIobo to the
ground aB If they
would slip oft thu
cosy houses Just ns
tho dove-colored
shawl slips off the shoulders of a Quaker girl
If thero bo any left who wear dove-colored
ahttwls. I am thinking of Philadelphia nnd Pcnn's
Manor.
Hero there nre villages that do not know the
railway nnd tholr daughters do not know tho
modern fashions. A village girl buys one lino
gown nnd it will InsJ her fifteen yenrs. Do you
thing she la not ust as nice beneath It?
Those girls apuro no cxpenBO on their best
gowns. Thoy have lonl linen nnd real laco and
lino silk stockings if they choose' to wear them,
and each girl has a gold helmet, which Is worth
from $00 to $300.
It begins to rain.
This helmet Is a thin and aupplo shell of gold
which snugly fits tho head. Sometimes It la
flcoqp-ahuped to lot tho back hnlr bo colled tn a
knot, Bomotlmes they plait their back hair In two
long qucuoB, which hang down before tho enrs
on ench sldo of the fnco; but tho gold helmet
must bo always there, though It bo only seen to
shlmmor In tho sunlight through tho meshes of n
kind of night-cap, nUo fitting snugly, which may
bo of linen or of lnre, In which cnao it has ruffles.
Ench girl has her gold helmet, evon thoao who
go to service up In Rotttrdam, though when
thoy grow sophisticated, citified and shame-faced
thoy first put on city bonnetB over their gold hel
mets and whlto nightcaps nnd then Inter on lock
up tholr caps and helmets in tholr bureaus and
take to smart pink cotton pilnts for gowns and
wenr coquettish rutllos of gauzy tulle on their
1 heads, for nil tho world liko London chamber
maids. These holnjots, horned on each Bide of the
forehead with long twisted prongs of gold and
dating back to whon tho Germanic trlbea were
struggling with tho nomnjis, nre, together with
tho bomb-shnped skirts, noon bound to disappear
and flguro only, like the pensnnt costume of tho
north of Franco, In chnrlty bazaars ou city girls
Instead of country girls, who aro nbandonlng
thorn for flimsy trash thren yenrs behind the current-mode,
Tho air is Bultry, llko n gentle steaming In tho
laboring noonday buii. CloudB rising nbove cloude
around tho whole horizon meet nt the zenith llko
a dome. Thoro Is no end of peaceful hamlets,
protty, tidy, busy.
Wo stop for the captain to make an afternoon
call. Small girls pass In procession bearing tu
lips Whoro to What for? Mystery. Wo
Btoam on. And thero Is nothing more.
Tho river widens nnd the windmills and tho
Bnwmllls give place to shipping. Then the squat
Bplroa of a city full of Httlo unartlBtlc churchoa
show thomsolvoB, and wo approach tho seventh
commercial port of Europe.
Thu captain says It looks like rain.
From boozy Delglnn Antwerp to Dutch Rotter
dam and Its mild thoroughfares Is all tho dls
tnnco 'from tho continental system to our Amer
ican respoctablllty. The town la Puritan. Tho
glrla look at you with straight oyea, as Innocent
of coquetry aa lnmba; thoy nro not llko French
glrla walking with their mnmmnB. casting down
tholr oyos consciously. Would n French girl play
lAlfl 2f AI1I c Tftmii
HEAD OF A NEW DEPARTMENT
Charles J. Brand, chief of tho newly
created division of markets under tho
agricultural department's new rural
organization service, has the Job of
attempting to better market condi
tions, and thereby reduce tho cost of
living. His work will bo educational
and ho will endeavor to create a high
standard In packing and shipping food
products to prevent waatc. Co-operative
markets for the producers will
bo tried and everything will be done
to better tho quality of tho produce
and to make its cost lower by estab
lishing n standard method of market
ing. Tho possibilities of tho plan nre
largo and will Involve questions ol
highway and railroad transportation.
It is understood that country commu
nities will be urged to co-opernto as
largely as they can In selling their
products. It Is understood tho plan
is ultimately to go further afield than
marketing, for tho development of tho
agricultural community Is Interlaced with the social development of tho com
munity In such a way that the officials think that one cannot be considered
without conslderlrg tho other.
Mr. Drand was born in Minnesota in 1870, ia a graduate of the university
of that stato and is by profession a botanist and agriculturist.
HjjSin 'i$2N' ?
PROTECTOR OF AMERICAN BIRDS
Copenhagen or other promiscuous kissing games?
Hero thoy kiss nil the afternoon, as innocent as
little billing birds. Thoy kiss In the rnln; and
It rains often.
In speaking of tho handsome quays they call
tho Hoompies (more like a park than any ordi
nary waterfront), the guidebook says that visitors
may enter and Inspect tho vessels without ob
jection provided thoy do not get in the way of
tho work In hand Wo did not enter and inspect,
but I can well believe we might have dotie so.
Wo did walk Innocently Into the garden of tho
most aristocratic club of Rotterdam and mingled
freely wjth the smnrt set who were holding tulip
competition, where the heroine was a blonde,
blue-eyed, fourteen-yoar-old girl who had grown
an apple greon vnrloty! Wo were only mado
awaro of our position when Ave drank curacao
nnd bitters offered by a waiter In blue broad
cloth nnd a yellow vest, who refused to tako pur
money, we not being club members.
Rotterdom Is so airy, open, bright, so shady,
tlowery nnd well wntered that Us citizens may
sing. Cannls aro everywhere, nnd the canals are
beautiful. Thoy glvo a park-like look to all tho
8troots, bordered by lawns, garnished by shrubs
nnd trees and tulips. And tho citizens, from out
tholr kitchen windows or their parlor windows,
whon thoy hnve company for dinner, hook up
frcafl fish In profusion, which adds a labor-saving
oloment to their blltho freedom.
Should a list bo mado of continental cities
which havo no great Bights, no monuments, no
rulna, no collections in n word, no treadmill
tourist round the town of Rotterdam would tako
a placo of honor in It, although she has n marl
tlnlo museum, a picture gallery and a statue of
Hrasmus.
In tho market you enn mnko a study of tho
bodlcos nnd headgear of tho peasants. Catching
tho Dutch taste for still Hfo you may muse on
symphonies of color In tho produce. Hero are tho
tlsh stalls, whoro all tht shades of white silver
white, bluo wllto, white shaded with bronzo
green, whlto with metallic reflections unite In a
clear scale of harmony. Hero all tho tints of
green are heaped together In the vegetables,
molodloiiBly nccompnnlod by tho fragrance of tho
flowers, which sing together with tile fruits in
tho moat diverse color tones.
Though Rotterdam Is a great port and an lm
' portant manufacturing center, my best Impres
sions of tho pleasant city are connected with n
cafe chmitnnt, a park, the markets and tho resl
denlittl streets. The great manufactures aro ship
building, tobacco factories, sugar refinories and
mnny groat distilleries, especially of glna nnd
Dutch llquours. Tho moro Important articles of
commerce aro coffee, sugar, tobacco, rlco and
BpIceB. It Is tho sovonth port of Europe.
Again and again the vUlon of a well-known and
beloved city rises up before tho writer's docllo
Imagination and affects him to tho point of tears
tho city of Philadelphia, Pa., which, I seo. must
bo a faithful moving picture today of whnt Now
York was in 1750. U is the city of homes par
excellence, and it rosomblea Rotterdam, nnd Rot
terdam rescmblca It. Tho wenrlod tourist seek
ing for n anug rotront In which to rnlao a beard
will find Rotterdam n second Philadelphia.
And looking from tho watch towor of St. Law
renco'a church, down on tho trnnqull panoramn;
on tho rlvor and tho suburbs, on tho red ,brlck
housea and tho streets bo straight nnd self-ro-spectlng,
where tho chlldron piny jackatones on
tho front doorsteps, and their big slstora piny
bull In tho ring and kiss tho boys on tho sldo
wnlk; to look down, I say, on tho slow but yel
low trolleys whoso faint jingle rlsos as from some
secure blnmoless nnd fruitful shcop field; to ad
mire the ainoko of mnnufactorlos, and pollco wng
ona taking drunken factory hands to Jail, ho will
cry, "It Is Philadelphia PhHadolphla, for tbo out
sldo of the plattor !b so clcaul"
V
Dr William T. Hornaday, director
of the Now York Zoological park, ap
peared In Washington a few days
ago before tho scnato committee to
ask tho congress of tho United States
to stop the activities of the American
people In tho extermination of birds
for millinery purposes.
On tho day of his return to this city
he told the writer that fully 100 spe
cies of the most beautiful and curious
birds of tho world, aro now being ex
terminated to meet tho demands for
plumes, feathers nnd skins to use on
women's hats.
He called attention to such salient
facts as these:
The number of wild birds annually
consumed by the feather trade Is so
enormous as to challenge tho Imagi
nation. Tho whole world Is under tribute.
No species is spared for sentimental
reasons.
And tho most cautlful and most
curious species are tho ones in tho greatest danger of extermination.
For tnstanco, tho exquisite birds of paradise aro being exterminated
ally before our eyes, and tho extermination of a species Is a crime,
greater and lesser birds of paradise and the Jobl bird of paradise aro
nearly extinct.
fSSv
liter
Tho now
IS NOT A MENACING FORCE
Twenty-live years ago, on Juno 15,
1S88, tho sudden death of the German
Emperor Frederick, after 100 days ol
reign, brought to tho throne of tho
German empire his son Wllhelm II.,
only twenty-nlno years old, and looked
upon as an autocratic and impulsive
youth wrapped up heart nnd soul in
military matters and thirsting for
military glory. When, soon after his
accession, he broko with Bismarck,
the Iron chancellor, making it per
fectly clear that ho Intended to bo
sole master in Germany, the appre
hensions a3 to what hl3 reign might,
bring became graver and moro wide
spread. Within his own domlntona
and abroad Wllhelm was considered a
menacing force a potential war lord.
Now, 25 yeard later, ho id acclaimed
everywhere aa the greateat factor for
peace that our time can show. It was
he, wo hear, who again and again
throw tho weight of hla dominating
personality, backed by tho greatest
military organization In tho world nn organization built up by himself Into
the balance for peace whenever war cloudB gathered over Europe.
And, on every hand, this is enthusiastically acknowledged by his con
temporaries. In this twenty-fifth year of his rule eminent men hero andi
abroad are Intoning a chorus of pralsa to him as the great peace lord of tho'
world. '
In spite of all its ostentation, Germany ia working aplendidly and is
moving forward with the best in science and art and economics and law.
Herein, too, tho emperor with hla. Incessant energy represents the noblest
impulses of the populur feeling.
ENGLAND'S PEACE ADVOCATE
One thing European statesmen and
writers, aro agreed upon is tn giving
tho Brltiah minister for foreign af
fairs the credit of winding up tho
Balkan war nnd In preserving tho
grcntly threatened pence of tho re-
innlmlor nt EurOBC
Slgnor E. Emanuel, a noted Italian
diplomat and writer, for Instance
says: "It wns n stroko of good for
tune for tho Liberal party aa boon as
It returned to nower to bo able to
entrust the direction of foreign policy
to Sir Edward Grey, who during the
South African war had separated him
self from tho party and avowed him
Belt an Imperialist. Ills LlberalUm
was enlightened tampered by a sonse
of reality aud rospect for tho spirit of
tho race. Quietly, without any shock,
ho was ablo to take up and develop
tho work of Lord Lnnsdowno when
the advent of the Liberals to power
had caused a fear lest tho foreign
policy of tho United Kingdom might
undergo an abrupt and radical change. From the outsut of his career as
minister ho was able, naturally and with Innate facility, to find tho Juat path,
nnd this reassured all those, within the diplomatic world and without, who
fenred that tho assumption of power by the Radlcnls might be fatal to Eng
land's prestlgo and iutctesta."
Straightforwardness, In tho opinion of Slgnor Emanuel, 1b tho word
which, better than any other, necounte for the success or "thia exceptional
Btateaman." His program has been, "Make now friendships without ienouuc
lug the old ones," and he has faith in its realization.
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