t m
on
Top of the
derfully
Immense Fields of Ice.
Favorable Conditions Aid Bold American Ex
plorer in Realizing the Ambition of His Life
He Denies Cook Arrived at the Goal.
Nojico to Publishers.
Tho following account by Command
er Robert E. Peary of hla successful
voyago to tho north polo was issued
on September 10 by the Now York.
Thnca Company at the request of
Commnndor Peary and for his protec
tion, as n book only, copyrighted and
exposed for salo beforo nny part of It
was reproduced by nny newspaper
in tho United States or Europo, in
order to obtain tho full protection of
tho copyright laws. Tho reproduction
oTthia account, in any form, without
permission,, is forbidden. Tho penal
ties for violation of this form of copy
right lncludo imprisonment for any
person aiding or abetting such viola
tion. This article Is copyrighted In
Great Britain by tho London Times.
Copyright, 1900, by tho New York
Times Company. This narratlvo is
also copyrighted as n nowspapor arti
cle by tho Now York Times Company.
REPORT OP THE DISCOVERY OP
THE NORTH POLE by Robert E.
Peary, Commander U. S. N., Copy
right, 1900, by tho Now York Times
Company.
Denies Cook Reached Pole.
Battle Hcrboi, Labrador (via Marconi
Wireless, Cnpa Rny, N. F.). Sept. lO.-Do
not trouble about Cook's story, or at
tempt to explain any discrepancies In Ills
statements. Tlia alTatr will settle Itself.
He has not been at the pole on April
II, IMS, or at any other ttmo. He haa
Imply handed the public a gold brick.
Theso statements are mode advisedly,
and I have proof of them. When he
makes a full statement of his Journey
over his signature to some geographical
society, or other reputable body, if that
statement contains the claim that he has
reached the pole, I shall bo In o posi
tion to furnish material that may provo
distinctly Interesting reading for tho pub
Uo. ROBERT E. PEARY.
Battle Harbor. Labrador (via Marco
ni wireless. Capo nay, N. F.), Sept. 9.
The steamer Roosevelt, bearing1 tho
north polar expedition of the Peary
Arctic club, parted company with tho
Erik and ntcamcd out of Etah ford late
In the afternoon of August IS, 1808,
setting the usual course for Capo Sa
bine. The weather was dirty, with
fresh southerly winds. Wo had on
board 22 Eskimo men, 17 women, and
10 children, 228 dogs, and some forty
odd walrus.
We encountered the Ice a short dis
tance from the mouth of tho harbor,
but It was not closoly packed, and was
negotiated by the Roosevelt without
serious dimculty.
Find Much Water.
As we nearod Capo Sablno tho weath
er cleared somowhat and wo passed by
Three Voort Island and Cape Sabine,
easily making out with tho naked eyo
the house at Hayes harbor occupied by
me In the winter of 1901-02.
From Cape Sabine north there was
bo much water that we thought of Bet
ting tho lug sail before the southerly
wind, but a little later appearance of
Ice to tho northward stopped this.
There was clean open water to Cape
lAlbert, and from there scattered Ico
to a point about abreast of Victoria
Head, thick weather and dense tee
bringing us sorno ten or fifteen miles
away.
From here we drifted south somewhat
and thon got aslant to the northward
out of the current. We worked a little
further north and stopped again for
some hours. Thon we again worked
westward and northward till we
reached a series of lakes, coming to a
top a few miles south of the Wind
ward's winter Quarters at Capo Dur
ViUe. From here, after some delay, we
lowly worked a way northeastward
through fog and broken Ice of medium
thickness through one night and the
forenoon of the next day, only omcrg
Jng Into open water and clear weather
off Cape jrraser.
Strike Ice and Fog.
From this point we had a clear run
through the middle of Robeson channel
uninterrupted by either Ico or fog, to
Ladv Franklin bay. Here we encoun
tered both Ice and fog, and while
working along In search of a practl
cable opening were forced across to
the Greenland coast at Thank God
Harbor.
The fog lifted there and enabled us
to make out our whereabouts and we
teamed north through a series of loads
nast Cape Lunton. ana thence south
ward toward Cape Union. A few miles
ff that caco we were stopped by Im
practicable Ice, and we drifted back
south to Cape Union, where we stopped
again.
Ship Forced Aground.
Wo lay far some time In a lake of
water, and then, to prevent being drift
ed south again, took refuge under the
north shoro of Lincoln bay, in nearly
the Identical place where we had our
unpleasant experiences three years be
fore. Here we remained for severeal
days during a period of constant and
at times violent northeasterly winds.
Twice we were foreed aground by
th havv Ice: we had our port quar
ter rail broken and a hole stove In the
bulwarks, anu iwi w yumicu vui in
an attempt to get north, but were
forced back each time to our preoarl
ous shelter.
Heavy Running loe.
Tinnllr en September 2 we squeezed
around Cape Union and made fast In a
hallow niche In tho Ice, but after some
hours we made another short run to
Black cape and hung on to a grounded
bit of ice. At last, a little after mid
night of September E, we passed through
Ytremely heavy running Ice Into a
stream of open water, rounded Cape
nnwaon and passed uapo Bneridan.
Within a quarter of an hour of the
same time we arrived three years beforo
r-seven a. m., September 6 we reached
STORY OF
World Reached by Won
Swift Rush Over the
the open water extending beyond Capo
Sheridan.
Wo steamed up to tho end of It and It
appeared practicable at first to reach
Porter bay, near cape Joseph Honly.
which I had for my winter quarters, but
the outlook being unsatisfactory, I went
back and put tho Rooaovolt Into the
only opening In the floe, being barred
close to the mouth of tho Sheridan riv
er a little north of our position three
years prior.
Put Up for Winter.
Tho season was further advanced than
In 1903; there was moro snow on the
ground and tho , new ice Inside tho floe
bergs was much thicker.
The work of discharging the ship was
commenced at onco and rushed to com
pletion. Tho supplies and equipment we
sledged across lee and sea and deposited
on shore. A house and workshop wero
built of board, covered with sails, nnd
ilttod with stoves, and the ship was
snug for winter in shoal water, where It
touched bottom at low tide.
Tho settlement on tho stormy shores of
the Arctic ocean was christened Hub
bard vllle.
Hunting parties wero sent out on Sep
tember 10 nnd a bear was brought In on
tho 12th and eomo deer a day or two
later.
Prepare for Sledge Trip.
On September IS tho lull work of trans.
ferrlng supplies to Cape Columbia was
Inaugurated. Marvin with Dr. aood-
sall nnd Borup and the Eskimos, took 18
sledge loads of supplies to Capo Belknap
and on the 27th the same party started
wl:h loads to Porter bay.
Tho work of hunting and transporting
supplies was prosecuted continuously by
tho members of the party and the Eski
mos until November 6, when tho sup
plies for the spring sledgo trip had been
removed from winter quarters and de
posited at various places from Capo Co
Ian to Capo Columbia.
Tho latter part of September the move
ment of the Ico subjected the ship to a
pressuro which listed It to port some
eight or ten degrees, and It did not re
cover till tho following spring.
On October 1 I went on a hunt with two
Eskimos across the Held And Pass bay
and tho peninsula, mado the circuit of
Clcmants Markham Inlet, and returned
to the- ship In seven days with 15 musk
oxen, a bear and a deer.
Later In October I rcpoated tho trip,
obtaining live musk oxen, and hunting
parties secured some 40 deer.
Supplies Moved to Base.
In the February moon Bartlett went to
Capo Hccla. Goodsnll moved aomo more
supplies from Hccla to Capa Colan, and
Borup went -to Markham Inlet on a hunt
ing trip. On February 15 Bartlett loft
tho Roosevelt with his division for Cape
Columbia und Parr bay.
Qoodsall, Borup, MacMlllan and Han
sen followed on successive days with
their provisions. Marvin roturued from
Capo Bryant: on February 17 and left for
Capo Columbia on February 21. 1 brought
up the rear on February 22.
The total of all divisions leaving the
Roosevelt was seven members of the
party, 69 Eskimos, 140 dogs and 23 sledges.
Make Ready for Dash.
By February 27 such of tho Cape Colan
depot an was needed had been brought
up to Cape Columbia, the dogs wero
rested and double rationed and harnessed,
and tho slodgps and other gear over
hauled. Four months of northerly winds during
the fall and winter Instead of souther
ly ones, as during the provlous soason,
led mo to expect less open water than
before, but a great deal of rough Ice, and
I was prepared to how a road through
the Jagged Ice for tho first hundred miles
or so, then cross the big lead.
Bartlett Leads the Way.
On the last day of February Bartlett,
with his pioneer division, accomplished
this, and his division got- away due
north over the ice on March 1. The rest
of the party got away on Bartlett's
trail, and I followed an hour later.
Tho party now comprised scvon mem
bers of tho expedition, 17 Eskimos, 133
dogs and 19 sledges, one Eskimo and
Boven dogs had gone to pieces.
A strong easterly wind, drifting
snow, and temperature In the minus
marked our departure from the camp at
Cape Columbia, which I had christened
Crano City. Rough Ice In tho first march
damaged several sledges and smashed
two beyond repair, the toams going back
to Columbia for other b I edges In reserve
there.
Pass British Record.
Wo camped ten miles from Crane City.
Tho easterly wind and low temperature
continued, in the second march we
passed tho British record mode by Mark
ham In Muy, 1S7G 82.20 and wero stopped
by open wutcr, which had been formed
by wind after uartiett passed.
Id this march we negotiated the lead
and reached Bartlett's third camp. IJorup
had gone hack from Here, nut missed his
way, owing to tho faulting of tho trail
by the movement of tho Ice.
Marvlu caino back also for more fuel
and alcohol. The wind continued, form
Ing open water all about us. At the end
of the fourth march we camo upon
Uartiett, who naa been stopped by
wldo lake of open water. We remained
bcro from March 4 to March 11.
Gets Glimpse of Sun.
At noon of March E the sun, red and
shaped like a football by excessed re
flection, Just raised Itself above the horl
son for a few minutes and then dlsao
poared again. It was tho first time I had
seen it slnco October 1.
I now began to feel a good deal of
anxiety because thsre were no signs
of Marvin and Borup, who should have
been there for two days. Besides, they
had the aiconot ana on, wmcn were In
dlsDonsable for us.
We concluded that they bad either lost
the trail or wero Imprisoned on an Is
land by odou water, probably the latter.
Fortunately, on March 11 the lead was
practicable and, leaving a note for Mar
vin and Dorup to push on after us by
forced marcnes, wo proceoosa northward,
Tho sounding of the lead gave 110
fathoms.
During this march we crossed the
eighty-fourth parallel and traversed
succession of Just frozen leads, from
few hundred yards to u mile in width
This march was really simple. .
Oti the fourteenth we got tree of the
leads nnd camo on decent going. WLUe
we were making camp a courier from
Msxvlu came and Informed mo fee was
Rill HIE
on the march In the rear. Tho temper
ature was 59 below zero.
The following morning. March IS. I sent
Hansen with his division north to .pio
neer a trail for five marches, and Dr.
Qoodtelt, according to the program, start
ed back to Cape Columbia.
McMillan Turns Back.
At night Marvin and Borup came spin
ning In with their men and doss steam
ing In the bitter air like a squadron of
battleships. Their arrival rclloved me
of all anxiety as to our oil supply.
in the morning I discovered that Mao
Mlllan's foot was badly frost bitten. The
mishap had occurred two or three days
before, but MacMlllan had said nothing
about It In tho hope that It would come
out all right.
A glance at tho Injury showed mo that
the only thing was to send him back to
Capo Columbia at onco. Tho arrival of
Marvin and Borup enabled mo to spare
Ufllclent men and dogs to go back with
him.
Lots Is Serious One.
This early loss of MacMlllan was seri
ously disappointing to me. Ho had a
sledge all the way from Capo Columbia,
and with his enthusiasm and tho powers
and physique of the trained athlete I
had confidence in him for at least the
88th parallel, but thera was no alterna
tive.
Tho best sledges and dogs wero select
ed and tho sledgo loads brought up to
the standard. Tho sounding gave a
depth of 325 fathoms.
We were over the continual shelf, and,
as I had surmised, the successivo leads
crossed In tho fifth and sixth marches
composed the big lead Und, marked the
continual shelf.
On leaving the camp tho expedition
comprised 16 men, 12 sledges and 100 dogs.
The next march was satisfactory as re
gards distance and tho character of the
going. In tho latter part thero wero
pronounced movements In tho Ico, both
vlslblo and audible.
Somo leads were crossed. In one of
which Borun and his team took a bath,
and we wero finally stopped by an im
practicable lead opening In front of us.
We camped In a temperature "Of CO de
grees below.
At tho end of two short marches we
came upon Hnnzen and his party in
camp, mending their sledges, wo ue-
voted the remainder of tho day to ovor
hauling nnd mending sledges and break
ing up our damaged onos for material.
Make Forced Marches.
The next morning I put Marvin In the
load to pioneer tho trail, with Instruc
tions to make two forced marches to
bring up our averago which had been
cut down by the last two short ones.
Marvin carried out his Instructions Im
plicitly. A considerable amount of young
Ice assisted In this.
At the end of the tenth march, latitude
5.2!, Borup turned back In command of
tho second supporting party, having trav
eled a distance equivalent to Nansen's
distance from this far to his farthest
north.
I was sorry to lose this young Vale
runner, with his enthusiasm and pluck.
Ho had led his heavy sledge ovor trio
floes in a way that commanded every
one's admiration and would havo mado
his father's eyes glisten.
Changes His Plan.
From this point the expedition com
prised 20 men, 10 slidges, and 70 dogs. It
was necessary for Marvin to takb a
sledgo from hero, and I put Bartlett
and his division In advance to plonoor
tho trail.
The continual daylight enabled me to
make a moderation here that brought my
advance and main parties closer together
and reduced tho likelihood of their be
ing separated by open leads.
After Bartlett left camp with Hender
son and their division, Marvin and I re
mained with our division 20 hours long
er nnd then followed. When we roached
Bartlett's camp he broko out and wont
on and we turned In. By this arrange
ment tho advance party was traveling
while the main party was asleep, and
vice versa, and I was In touch with my
advanco party every 24 hours.
Moves Expeditiously.
I had no reason to complain of the
going for tho next two marches, though
for a less experienced party, less adapt
nblo sledges, or less perfect equipment It
would have been an Impossibility.
At our position at the end of the sec
ond march, Marvin obtained a satisfac
tory sight for latitude In clear weather,
which placed us at 85.48. The result
agreed satisfactorily with the dead reck
oning of Marvin, Bartlett and mysolf.
Up to this tlmo. the slight altitude of
the sun had mado It not worth whllo to
waste tlmo In observations.
On tho next two marches tho going Im
proved, and wo covered good distances.
In one of theso marches a lead delayed
us a few hours. We Anally forrled across
the Ice cakes.
Makes Record Run.
The next day Bartlett let himself out,
evidently, for a record, and reeled off 20
miles. Hero Marvin obtained anothei
satisfactory eight on latitude, which gave
the position ns 88,38 (or beyond tho furth
est north of Nanscn and Abruszl). and
showed that we had covered 50 minutes
of latitude In three marches.
In these three marches wo had passed
tho Norwegian record of 88.14, by Nan
sen, and tho Italian record of 88.31, by
Cagnl.
From this point Marvin turned back In
command of the third supporting party,
My last words to nun were: "Bo care
ful of tho leads, my boy."
Tho party from this point comprised
nine men, seven sledges, and 80 dogs,
The conditions at this camp and tho ap
parently unbroken expanse of fairly level
Ice In every direction reminded mo of
Cogal's description of his farthost north.
Danger Is Encountered.
But I was not deceived by the appar
ently favorable outlook, for available
conditions never continue for any dls
tance or any length of time In tho arc-
Mo regions.
The next march was over good go
Ing, but for the tlrst tlmo since leaving
Und we experienced that condition, fro-
quent over these ice fields, of a hasy at
mosphero. In which tho light Is equal
everywhere. All relief Is destroyed, and
It is impossible to see for any distance,
We were obliged In this march to make
a dttour around an epen load. In tho
next march we encountered the heaviest
and deepest snow of tho Journey, through
a thick, smothering mantle lying In the
depressions of heavy rubble Ice,
Temporarily Discouraged.
I came upon Bartlett and his party,
fagcod out and temporarily discouraged
by the heartracklng work of making
road.
I knew what was tho matter with
them. They wero simply spoiled by tho
coon going en the previous marches.
rullled them a bit, lightened their sledges
and cent them on encouraged again.
During the next march we traveled
through a thick hate drifting ever the
tee beforo a biting ulr from the north
east. At the end of the march we came
upon the captain camped beside a wide
open lead with a denso black water sky
northwest, north and northeast.
Tho next march was also a long one,
It was Bartlett's lost hit. Ho let him
self out over a aeries of large old flora.
steadily increasing In diameter and
covered with hard snow.
Wind Helos Out.
During the last few nines I walked
beside him or In advance. He was sol
emn and anxjoui J.p go further, but the
program was for him to go back from
here In command of the fourth sup
porting party, nnd there wero no sup
plies for an Increase In tho main party.
When he left I felt for a moment
pangs of rogret as he disappeared In
the distance, but It was only momen
tary. My work was still ahead, not In
the rear.
Bartlett had done srood work and had
boen a great help to me. Circumstances
had thruBt the brunt of tho pioneering
upon him Instead of dividing it among
several, as I had planned.
no had reason to take pride in the
fact that ho had bettered tho Italian
record by a degree and a quarter and
had covered a distance equal to the
entire dlstnnco of tho Italian expedi
tion from Franz Josot'B land to Cagnl'a
furthest north.
I had given Bartlett this position and
post of honor In command of my
fourth nnd last supporting party, nnd
tor two reasons: first, because of his
magnlflcont handling of tho Roosevelt:
ocond, bocauso he had cheerfully stood
between mo and many trifling annoy
ances on tho expeditions.
Then thero was a third reason. It
seemed to mn appropriate In view -of
the magnificent British record of oro
tic work, covering throe centuries, that
It should be n British subject who
could boast that, next to an American,
he naa been nearest the pole.
Last Struggle at Hand,
With the disappearance of Bartlett 1
turned to the problem beforo me. This
was that for which I had worked for 32
years, for which I had lived tho slmplo
life; for which I had conserved all my
energy on the Upward trip; for which
I had trained myself as for a race, crush
ing down every worry about success,
In splto of my years, I felt In trim
fit for the demnnds of tho coming days
and eager to be on the trail.
As for my party, my equipment, nnd
my supplies, I was In shape beyond my
most sanguine dreams of earliest years.
My party might bo regarded as an
Ideal, which had now como to realization
as loyal and responsive to my wilt as
tne lingers of my right hand.
Party Ideal for Effort.
Four of them possess tho technique of
dogs, sledges, Ice, nnd cold as their heri
tage. Two of them, Hansen and Ootam,
wero my companions to the farthest point
three years before. Two others, Eglnwuk
and Slgloo, were In Clark's division,
which had such a narrow escape at that
time, and now were willing to go any
where with my Immediate party, and
willing to risk themselves again In any
supporting party.
Tho fifth was a young man who had
never served beforo In any expedition.
but who was, It possible, even more
willing and eager than tho others for
tho princely gifts a boat, a rifle, a shot
gun, ammunition, knives, etc., which 1
had promised to each of them who
reachod tho polo with me; for ho knew
that these riches would enable him to
wrest from a stubborn father tho girl
whose imago nued his hot young heart.
Had Confidence In Him.
aii naa nuna connuenco so long nn
I was with them, and gavo no thought
for tho morrow, euro that whatever hap
pened I should somehow got them bock
to land. But I dealt with. the party
equally. I recognized that all Its Im
petus centered In mo, -and that whatever
pace I set It would moke good, If any
one played out, I would stop for a short
time.
-I had no fault to find with the condi
tions. My dogs woro thi best, the pick
of 122 with which wo left Columbia. Al
most all wero powerful males, hnrd ns
nails, In good flesh, but without a super
fluous ounce, nnu, wnat was hotter yet,
they were all In good spirits.
My sledges, now that the repairs wero
completed, wero In good condition. My
supplies wero amplo for 40 days. and.
with the reserve represented by tho dogs
themselves, could be made to Inst 50.
His Program Planned.
Pacing back and forth In th Ice of the
pressure ridge whero tho Igloos wero
built, while my men got their loads
ready for the next msrch.es, I settled on
my program. I decided I should strain
every nervo to make five marches of 15
miles each, crowding theso marches In
such a way ns to bring us to tho end of
the fifth long enough before noon to per
mtt the Immodlato taking' of an observa
tion for latitude.
Wcathor and leads permitting, I bo
llevcd I could do this. If my proposed
distances wero cut down by any chanco
had two means In reserve for making
up the deficit:
First To make tho Inst march n forcod
one, stopping to make tea and rest tho
dogs, but not to sleep.
Becond At tho end of the fifth march
to mako a forcod march with a light
slodgo, a doublo team of dogs, and one
or two of tho party, leaving tho rest In
camp.
Sees Danger in Gale,
Underlying all theso calculations was a
recognition of the ever present neighbor
hood of open leads and Impassable water.
and tho 'knowledge that n 24-hour gale
would knock all my plans Into u cocked
hat, and oven put us In Imminent peril.
At a little after midnight of April 1
aftor n few hours of sound sleep, I hit
the trail, leaving the others to break
up camp and follow.
As I climbed tho pressure ridge back
of our Igloos I set another hole In my
belt, tho third since I started. Every
man and dog of us waa lean and flat
homed as a board and as hard.
Conditions All Favorable.
It wan a fine morning. Tho wind of
tho Inst two days had subsided, and the
going was tho best and most equable
at nny I had had yet. Tho floes were
large and old, and clear, and wero sur
rounded by pressuro ridges, Home of
which were almost stupendous.
Tho biggest of thorn, however, were
easily negotiated, either through somo
crevice or up somo hugo brink. I not
u good pace for about ten hours.
Twenty-five mlleu took me well be
yond the eighty-eighth parallel.
While l was building my igloos n
long lead forward by the cast and
southwest of us at a distance of a few
miles.
Travel Was Easy.
A few hours' sleep ana we wero on
the trail ngaln. As tho going was now
practicality horizontal, wo were un
hampered and could travel as long as
we pleased nnd sleep as nttlo as we
wished.
The weather was flne and tho going
like that of the previous day, except
at tho beginning, when ptckaxos wero
required. This and a brief stop at an
ether lead cut down our distance. But
we had mado 20 miles In ten hours and
were half way to the eighty-ninth
parallel.
The Ice was grinding audibly in every
direction, but no motion was viHiblo
Evidently It was aottllng back into
equilibrium and probably sagging duo
northward with Its releaso from the
wind pressure.
Surface Almost Level.
Again thero was a few hours' sleep
ana we nit tho trail ueiore midnight
Tho weather and going were oven bet
ter, Tho surface, except us Interrupted
by Infrequent ridges, was as level as
the glacial fringe from Hecla toColum
bin, and harder.
We marched something over ten
hours, the dogs being often on the trot,
and made 20 miles, Near the end of
tho march we rushed across n lend 100
yards wide, which buckled under our
sledges nnd Anally broko as the last
sledge left It.
We stopped In sight of the eighty-
ninth parallel In a. temperature of 40
degrees below. Again a scant sloep
nnd wo were on our way onco more
and across tho eighty-ninth parallel.
This march duplicated tho previous
oiio as to wcathor nnd going. The last
fow hours It was on young ice nnd oc
casionally the dogs wero galloping.
We mado twonty-flve miles or more.
the nlr. tho sky. and the bitter wind
burning tho face till It craoked. It was
llko tho great Interior Ico gnp of
Qreenland. Even the natives com
plained of the bitter nlr. It was as
keen as frozen steel.
A little longer sleep than tho provl
ous one had to be taken here, as we
wero all in need of It. Then on ngaln.
Ud to this time, wkh each successive
march, our fear of an Impassable lead
had Increased. At every Inequality of
the Ice I found niyeolf hurrying breath
lessly forward, fearing that It marked a
lend, and when I arrived at the summit
would catch my breath with relief only
to find myself hurrying on in tho same
way nt the next ono.
But on this march, by soma strnnge
shift of feeling, this fear fell from mo
completely. Tho weather waa thick, but
It gavo me no unoaslness.
Before 1 turned In I took nn observa
tion which Indicated our position ns 89
decree 25 minutes.
A denss, lifeless pall hung overhead.
The horizon was black nnd the Ice b
neath was n ghnstiy, chalky white, wllev
no relief a striking contrnst to the gllnK
muring, sunlit fields of It over which wo
had been traveling for the previous four
days.
Weather Becomes Milder.
The going was even better, and thero
was scarcely any snow on tho hnrd,
granular, last summer's surface of tho
old Mors, dotted with the sapphlro Ice
of tho previous summer's Inkes.
A rise in temperature to 15 degrees be
low reduced the friction of tho stodges
and gave the dogs the nppeoranre of
having caught tho spirits of the party.
Tho more sprightly ones, ns they went
nlong with tightly curled tntjs. frequent
ly tossed their hends, with short, sharp
oarics nna yeips.
In 12 hours wo had mads 40 smiles.
There was no sign of a leatl tn the
march.
Arrival at the Pole.
I had now made my five marches, and
was In time for n hasty noon observation
through a temporary break In tho clouds.
which Indicated our position an 89.67. I
quote nn entry from my Journal somo
hours Inter:
The pole at last. Tho prize of three
tenturleu, my dream ami goal for 20
years, mine at last. I cannot bring my
self to renltzo It.
It all seems so simple and common
place. As Bartlett said when turning
back, when speaking of tils being In
these exclusive regions, which no mortal
lias ever penetrated before! "It Is Just
like every day."
Of course I had my sensations that
made sloep Impossible for hours. desplU
my utter fatigue the sensations of a life
time; but I havo no room for them hore.
Tho nrst so hours at the pole were
spent In taking observations; In going
some ten miles beyond our camp and
some eight miles to the right of It; In
taking photographs, planting my flags.
depositing my records, studying the hori
zon with my telcseopo for posslblo land.
and searching for a practicable placo to
maxo a sounding.
Plan for He turn Trip.
Ten hours after our arrival the clouds
cleared beforo a light breeze from our
left and from that time until our depar
turn In tho afternoon of April 7 the
weather was cloudless and flawless.
Tho minimum temperature during the
SO hours wns S3 below, tho maximum 12.
wo nad roached the gonl, but the re
turn wns still before us. It was essential
that wo reach tho land before tho next
spring tide, nnd wo must strain every
nerve to do UUS.
I had a brief talk with my men. From
now on It was to be a big travel, little
sleep and a hustle every mlnuto.
Wo would try. I told them, to double
march on tho return that Is, to start
and cover ono of our northward
marches, make tea and eat our luncheon
in the igloos, then cover another march.
eat and sleep a few hours, nnd repeat
tins aany.
Speed Nearly Doubled.
As a matter of fnct. wo nearly did
tills, covering regularly on our return
Journny flvo outward marches In three
return marches.
Just as long ns wo could hold the
trail we could doublo our speed, and
wo need waste no tlmo tn building
now Igloos every day, so that tho tlmo
wo gained on the return lessened the
chances of a gale destroying tho track.
Just nbovo tho eighty-seventh narnl
lol was a region somo fifty miles wldo
which caused me considerable uneasi
ness. Twelvo hours of strong easterly,
westerly, or northerly wind would
mako this region an open sen.
in tho afternoon of tho 7th wo start
ed on our return, having doublo fed
tho dogs, repaired the sledges for the
last time, and discarded all our snare
doming to ugnten tho loads.
Tries to 8ound Sea.
inve mues from tho nolo a narrow
crack filled with reoent Ice, ttirough
wnicu we were aoio to work a hole
with n pickax, enabled mu to mako n
sounding. All my wire, 1,500 fathoms.
was sent down, but thero was no bot
tom,
In pulling up the wlro parted a few
fathoms from the surface and lead and
wire went to tho bottom. Off went ret
ana nanain. ngntoning the sledges still
lumiur. t mu nn mora uso lor litem
now.
Threo marches brought us buck to
me iriooh wuore tna enptain turned
back. Tho last march was In tho wild
sweep of n northerly gale, with drift
ing snow und the Ice rocking under as
we unshed ovnr it.
Not Delayed by Leads.
South of where Marvin had turned
back wo camo to where his nartviia!
built several Igloos whllo delayed by
open loads. Still further south we
found .whord tho captain had boon hold
up by an open lead nnd obliged to
enmp.
Fortunntely the movoment of theso
lends was simply open and shut, and It
took considerable water motion to fault
tho trail seriously.
While the captain, Marvin, and as I
found later, Borup, had boon delayed
by open leads, wo Boomed (o boar n
ohnrm and with no single lead woro we
delayed moro than u couple of hours,
Somettmoe the Ice was fast and firm
enough to carry us norosrf: sometime
a short detour, sometimes a brief halt
for tho lead to closo, sometimes un im.
provlsed ferry on an Ice cake, kept the
iran wunoui ainiouuy down to tho
lenin ouiwara marou.
Lose Bartlett's Trail.
Igloos there disappeared completely
and the entire region was unrecognlx
able. Whero on tho outward Journoy
had boen uurrow oracks, there wore
now broad leads, one of thorn over ilvo
mues in wiotn, caught ovor with young
loe.
Hero again fortune favored us, and
no pronounced movement of the Ice
having taken place slnco the captain
passed, wc had his trail to follow. Wo
picked up the old trail again north of
the seventh Igloos, followed It beyond
the tilth, and at the big lead lost It
finally.
From aero we followed tho captain's
trail, and on April 23 our sledges
psjsjd up the Yertjc" edjre o( tlp
glacier fringe, a llttlo west of .Caps
Columbia.
When the Inst sledgo camo up I
thought my Eskimos had gone crazy.
They yelled nnd called and danced
themselves helpless. As Ootah sat aown
on his sledge he remarked, In Eskimo:
"Tho devil Is nolccp or imving troubv
with his wife, or wo never should havo
como back no easily," 1 '
A fow hours later we nrrlved at
Crane Ctty, undor the bluffs of Capo
Columbia, and, after putting four
pounds of pemmlcan Into each of the
faithful dogs to keep them quiet ve
had, at last, our chance' to sloep.
Long Slesp Welcome.
Never shall I forget that sleep at Caps
Columbia. It wns sleep, sleep, then turn
over and sleep again. We slept glorious
ly, with nover a thought of tho morrow
or having to walk nnd, too, with no
tnougnt that thero was to bo nover a
night more of blinding headache
Cold water to a parched throat Is noth
ing compared with sleep to n numbed,
fatigued brnin nnd body.
Two dnya wo nnent hero In sleeping and
drying our clothes. Then for tho ship.
Our dogs, llko ourselves, had not been
hungry when wo arrived, but simply life
less with fatigue. Thcr wero different
nnlmnls now, and the better ones among
them swept on with tightly curled tails
and uplifted hoads and their Hind legs
treading tho snow with plstonllko regu
larity. Marvin's Fate Learned,
Wo reached ' Hecla In ono march and
tho Roosovelt In another. When wo
got to tho, Roosevolt I was staggered by
ino news oi mo iaiai misnap io juarvin.
He had either boon less cautious or less
fortunate than the rest of us, and his
death emphasized the risk to which we
nit had been subjected, for there was not
one of us but had been tn tho slodgo at
somo tlmo during tho Journey.
Tho big lead, cheated of Its prey threo
years before, had at Inst gained Its hu
man victim.
Tho rest enn bo told quickly. McMillan
nnd Borup had started for tho Green
land coast to deposit caohoa for me. Be
fore I arrived a flying Eskimo courlor
from mo overtook them with Instructions
that tho caches wero no longer needed
and they were to concontrnto their ener
gies on tho Ideal observations, ate, at
Cape Morris 1C Jeaup and north from
there.
Roosevelt Starts Back.
Theso Instructions wero carried out and
after their return In tho latter part of
May McMillan mado como further tidal
observations at other points. Tho sup
plies remaining at tho various caches
wero brought In and on July IS the
Roosovelt left Its winter quarters and
was driven out Into tho channol back of
Capa Nlon,
It fought Its way south In the center
of tho channel nnd passod Capo Sabine
on August 8, or 33 days earllor than In
1903, and 32 days earlier than tho British
expedition In 1878.
Wo picked up Whitney nnd his party
and stores at Etah. We killed aovonty
odd walrus for my Eskimos, whom I
landed at their homos. Wo met tho
Jeanto oft Saunders Island nnd took over
Its coal and cleared from Capo York on
August 28, ono month earlier than In
1900.
Announces. His Triumph.
On September 5 wo arrived at Indian
Harbor, whence tho message "Stars nnd
stripes nailed to north pole," was sofit
vibrating southward through tho crisp
Labrador air.
The culmlnntlon of long experience, a
thorough knowlcdgo of the conditions of
thn problem gained In tho last expedition
these, together with a new typo of
sledgo which reduced tho work at both
dogs nnd driver, nnd a now typo of camp
coolor which added to tho comfort nnd
Increased tho hours of sleep of the
members of tho party, combined to mako
thn present expedition an agreeable Im
provement upon tho last In respect to tha
rnpldlty nnd effectiveness of Its work and
thn lessoned discomfort nnu strain upon
tho members of the party.
His Capable Aids.
As to the personnel, I havo again been
particularly fortunate. Capt. Bartlett la
Just Bartlett-tireless, slcapless, enthusi
astic, whether on tho brldgo or In the
crow's nest or nt the head of a sledgo
division In the field.
Dr. (Joodsoll. tha surgoon of the expe
dition, not only looked nftar Its health
and his own specialty of microscopes but
took Ills full sharo or tho Held work of
tho expedition as woll, and was nhvays
roady for any work.
Profs. Murvin ana McMillan navo se
cured n mass of scientific data, havlpg
mado all tho tidal and most of tho nnid
work, and their services wero Invaluable
In every way.
Borup and Others Praised.
Borun not only mado tho reoord as to
tho dlstnnco traveled during tho Jour
ney, but to his aslstanco and htn expcr.t
knowledge of photography Is duo what
I bellevo to be the unoqualed serlos of
photographs taken bv tha expedition,
Hensnn In tho neid and peroy as
steward woro tho samo ns over, lnval
uablo In their respective lines.
Chief Engineer Wardwell, nlso of
tho Inst expedition, aided by his as
sistant, Bcott, kept tho machinery up
to n high state of efficiency nnd hns
glvon tho Rodsovelt tho foroe and pow
er which enabled It to negotiate appar
ently Impracticable ten,.
Mr. Clushue, tho mate, who was in
chargo of the Roosevelt during the ab
sence of Capt. Bartlett and mysolf, and
uoHtHwnin wurpny, wno was pui in
chargo of tho station at Etah for tho
relief of Cook, wero both trustworthy
and reliable men, and I count myself
fortunate In having had them In my
service.
Had a Willing Crew.
Tho members of tho crow and tho
firemen were a distinct Improvement
over those of our last expedition. Every
ono of thorn was willing and anxious
to bo of service In every posslblo way,
ConnorH, who was promoted to be
boa'n In thn absence of Murphy, proved
to bo practically offoctlvo.
Barnes, seaman, nna Wiseman and
Joyce, firemen, not only assisted Mar
vin and McMillan In their tldul and
meteorological observations on the
floosovclt, but Wiseman nnd Barnes
went Into the field with thorn on their
trips to Cape Columbia, and Condon
and Cody covered 1,000 miles hunting
and sledging supplies.
Presents for Eskimos.
As for my faithful Esklmps, I have
left them with ample supplies of dark,
rich walrus moat and blubber for their
winter, with currants, sugar, biscuits,
guns, rifles, ammunition, knives, hatch
ets, traps, etc.
Fur the splendid four who stood be
side .me at tho polo a boat and tent
each to requlto them for their enongy
and the hardship nnd toll thoy under
wont to help their friend Pcnry to the
north pole.
But all of this the dearly bought
years of exporlenoe, tho magnificent
strength of tho Roosovolt, tho splen
did energy nnd enthusiasm of my party,
tho loyal faithfulness of my Eskimos
could havo gono for naught but for
tho faithful necessaries of war fur
nished so loyally by tha mombcrs and
frlendB of tho Peary Arotlo club,
Trlbuto to Jesup,
And It Is no detraction from the liv
ing to say that to no single Individual
has the flno result boen moro signally
duo than to my friend, tho lute Morris
K. Jesup, tho first president of Uio club.
Their assistance has onahlbd mo to
toll tho last of the great eirtli stories,
tho story tho world kas bean waiting
to llir for 2ft yearn tho utery of
tho discovery of the north pole.
4 ROBERT E. PEAnV.
