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DAKOTA COUNTY HERALD:
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Y,S
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tate Historical Society
Motto: All The News When 1 1 IsS New.
VOL. 22.
NO. 19.
4
DAKOTA CITY, NEBRASKA, THURSDAY, JANUARY 8, 1914.
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4
NO TRUCE IN SHE
REFU8AL OF OWNERS TO RECOG
NIZE MINERS' UNION AS PARTY
TO PEACE IS CAUSE.
U. S. MEDIATOR QUITS TASK
Grand Jury Starts Investigation of
Kidnaping and Shooting of Charles
Mover While He Was at Hancock.
Mich.
Houghton, Mich., Jan. 6. John B.
Densmom of tho department of labor
announced on Saturday that his ef
forts to end the strlko of copper mi
ners by conciliation had failed after he
liad made a final effort to bring the
warring factions together.
Ho did not hesitate to blame his
failure upon tho uncompromising at
titude of the mine owners, who ro
fused to recognize the Western Fed
eration of Miners as a party to arbi
tration proceedings or other peace
projects.
"In a nutshell, the question Was
whother the union men should go bank
to work with or without discrimina
tion. The companies refused, to do
anything but discriminate against
members of the union," said Mr. Dens
more. "It means a struggle to tho bittor
ond," said O. N. Hilton, chief of coun
sel of tho Western Federation ot
Miners, who has represented Presi
dent C. H. Moyer hero since tho lat
ter's doportatlon. ''The outcome 13
duo entirely to tho attitude ot the
companies. They wanted everything
and'would concede nothing."
The union's last word was an off or
to withdraw the Western federation
from the field, its place to be taken by
a union affiliated with tho Michigan
Federation of Labor, the United Mine
Workers, with which the Western Fed
eration of Miners Is affiliated, or some
similar body. This was rejected ab
solutely by the companies. Word of
the negotiations was telegraphed to
the secretary of labor by Mr. Dens-
more. He said that a full report of
the efforts made would be made by
him after his return to Washington.
The Houghton county grand Jury
was specifically charged by Judge H.
H. O'Brien of the circuit court to in
vestigate the kidnaping of Moyer.
Moyer was forcibly deported, beaten
and shot
"If the Jury believes there is reason
.. able amount of evidence pointing to
ward persons connected wlth'th"? kid-'
naplng, they are to be investigated
and Indicted," Judge O'Brien charged.
', The grand Jury lg made up of James
MacNaughton's chauffeur, Edgar Bye,
several mine superintendents and two
Socialists. The evidence is being
placed before tho grand Jury by
George Nichols, a special prosecutor
appointed by Governor Ferris to con
duct the investigation.
Calumet, Mich., Jan. 5. Governor
" Ferris, Labor Commissioner Cunnlng-
ham and Secretary Ncsbit will arrive
in the copper country tonight. The
governor will prosecuto a vigorous in
vestigation of the strike In the hopes
of bringing! about a settlement. He
Is accompanied by several lower
Michigan labor leaders.
LIND BACK TO WATCH HUERTA
Pa f ley of President and Envoy Brings
No Change Gen. Villa to Com
mand Troops at OJInaga.
Pass Christian, Miss., Jan. C.With
the departure of tho scout cruiser
Chester, bearing John Llnd back to
Mexico, the mystery which enveloped
his vielt to President Wilson was only
partly cleared on Saturday. Deter
mination to cling to his policy as an
nounced in the past was voiced by tho
president.
Presidio, Tex., Jan. C Fighting con
tinues at OJInaga with the federals
somewhat more aggressive than at any
time since the fighting began. Gen
eral ViHa will take personal command
of the operations against OJInaga.
BUILDING FALLS; THREE DEAD
Three-Story Structure at South Bend
Ind., Collapses and Buries Vic
tims In Debris.
South Bend, Ind., Jan. C With
three dead and four injured removed
from tho wreck of the three-story
Shively and Honor buildings which
collapsed on Saturday, the city offi
cials began to probe Into the cause ot
the disaster. The dead Wilbur
Churchill, Delbert Hibberd, Niles,
Mich.; Long Hong, Chicago.
Divorce Record Shows Drop.
Kansas City, Mo.,. Jan. 6. One di
vorce for every four and a halt mar
riages was Kansas City's ratio for
1913, according to the compilation ot
records made by tho divorce proctor.
Last year 890 divorces were granted.
Castro Aids Die In Feud.
Coro, Venezuela, Jan. 6. A family
tragedy resulted In the death of the
leaders of Clprlano Castro's unsuc
cessful revolutionary army. General
Urblna killed General Gonzales. Senora
Gonzales killed General Urblna.
Girl Loops Loop In Air,
London, Jan. 5. The honor of being
the first woman aviator to loop the
loop In an aeroplane falls to Miss Tra
hawks Davis. She was a passenger
with Gustavo Hamel when the pilot
done a series of somersaults.
v3$r ( 1 v i 1
I . . - . J
Tho Dreadnought New York, now in tho Brooklyn navy yard, New York, which Is bolng rushed to readiness
forany possible trouble with Mexico, The New York was launched October 20, 1912., Tho 14-Inch guns which she
carries are the largest guns carried by any of our fighting fleet Her dimensions aro, 565 feet length on water line,
95 feet 2i inches her extreme breadth, nnd her displacement Is 27,000 tons. She has a speed ot 21 Unots, and CS
officers and a crow of 1,000 men are necessary to man her. "
SEVEN DEAD IN STORM
GALE IS STILL RAGING ON ATLAN
TIC COAST.
Ship Is Wreclted Off Delaware Break
water and Lifeboats Are i
Smashed to Pieces.
New York, Jan. 6. Five lives, were
lost In the hurricane that swept the
coast from Portland, Me., to Norfolk,
Va., Saturday. One million dollars'
damage was done.
A steamship, the name of which is
not known, sank off tho Delaware
breakwater, according to wireless mes
sages received. The steamer Manuel
Calvo of the Spanish trans-Atlantic
lino went to the assistance of
the disabled steamer, but the last
message received from the Manuel
Calvo said the latter vessel had low
ered lifeboats, but these had been
'swamped. Many-smaller-vossols are
In danger and several are 'believed to
be lost. (
Tho New Jersey coast has suffered
the greatest damage, hut with the
shifting of the wind the high watir,
which threatened to' wash away thou'
sands of houses on the New Jersey
coast, was partially removed.
At Atlantic City a 600-foot exten
sion of the million-dollar pier has been
carried away and nearly a mile of the
board walk at Chelsea, adjoining At
lantic City, has been washed away.
The sea has undermined a number of
costly homos in Chelsea and a large
portion of tho sea wall thero has been
washed away. The board walk of At
lantic City was damaged.
Nearly all of the "treets at Atlantlo
City are flooded and tho electric light
plant there, as well as nearly every
town along the New Jorsoy coast, his
been put out of commission and the
cities and two towns are in total dark
ness. A man died of exhaustion at Sea
bright, N, J., and two women were
killed in Brooklyn as a result ot tho
storm. Two other women who left
Coney Islnnd In' a small boat to fish
were blown to sea and drowned.
Nearly 200 persons are homeless.
STATE BANKS LOSE OUT
Cannot Take Advantage of Federal Re
serve Act, According to Attorney
General Grant Fellows.
Lansing, Mich., Jan. 5. Attorney
General Grant Fellows gave E. Hi
Doyle, stato banking commissioner, an
opinion that stato banks cannot tako
advantage ot the federal reserve act.
The attorney general bases his opinion
on the following grounds: First
State banks can't hold stock In other
corporations. Second Stato banks
can't loan their credit to other banks.
Third Permission given in tho fed
eral reserve act to stato banks does
not suporsedo the state law which
does no( permit stato banks to hold
stock In other banks.
BIG 'JAIL DELIVERY FAILS
Convicts at Tourah, Egypt, Secretly
Arm and Attack Wardens Fifty
Four Kilted and Wounded.
Cairo, Egypt, Jan. B. Fifty-four
convicts were killed and wounded in
a desperate battle betwoen prisoners
and wardens in Tourah prison. Tho
convicts had Becretly armed them
selves and rondo a concerted attack
In an effort to force a dollvery.
Dr. 8. Weir Mitchell Diet.
Philadelphia, Jan. 0. Dr. S. Weir
Mitchell, famous as a neurologist and
luthor, is dead. Doctor Mitchell Buf
fered from grip In Its most malignant
!orm and his age, he was eighty-three,
weakened him too much.
New Haven Road Cuts Wages.
New Haven, Conn., Jan. C. In tho
car shops of tho New York, New Ha
ven & Hartford railroad a reduction of
(en per cent. In tho wages of several
iundrcd employes becumo effective,
Ml cur workois were Included
HURRY WORK ON DREADNOUGHT
DIRECTORSHIPS MORGAN FIRM DROPS
New York, Jan. 5. Tho withdrawal Friday of J. P. Morgan & Co.
from moro than a score of great corporations, and tho statement shortly
afterward by George F. Baker, an almost equally dominant figure in Amer
ican finance, that ho soon would take similar action, gavo Wall street gen
erally a thrill which almost brought trading on the stock exchange to a
halt. "S
Whlle It Is probably true that many of tho prominent bankers had In
formation foreshadowing this momentous move toward ending Interlocking
directorates, the public and brokers had no advance knowledge of what was
taking pla.ee In the inner councils of the greatest of all American houses
of finance. Wherever telephone and ticker flashed the news about the
street groups of men gathered to discuss what was the all-absorbing topis.
Following is list of directorates dropped by J. P. Morgan & Co.:
J. P. MORGAN & CO.
New York Central and Hudson Riv
er Railroad company.
West Shore Railroad company.
Lake Shore and Michigan Southern
railway.
Michigan Central Railroad company.
New York, Chicago and St Louis
railroad.
Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago and
St. Louie railway .'--
New York, New Haven and Hart
ford railroad.
Central New England railway.
New York, West Chester and Bos
ton railway.
Harlem River and Portchester rail
road. Mlllbrook company.
New England Navigation company.
New England Steamship company.
Rhode Island company.
Rutland Railway company.
, Hartford and Connecticut Western.
New York, Ontario and Western
railway.
Western Union Telegraph company
(Henry P. Davidson still Is a direc
tor). Tomah, Wis., Jan. 2. Overcome by
religious emotion, Mrs. August Hess,
aged seventy, resident ot Clifton,
poured tho, contents of a Jug of kero
sene over herself, applied a match and
burned to death before help arrived.
San Francisco, Jan. 3. Thero were
no knockdowns In tho Gunboat Smith
Arthur Pelkey fight of the heavy
weight championship title until the
fifteenth round, and then two In suc
cession brought victory to Smith.
Salt Lake, Utah., Jan. 5. Judge Or
lando W. Powers, prominent In the
Democratic party, many times candi
date for tho senate from Utah, for
years a noted lawyer, died here of
pneumonia at the age of sixty-three.
New York, Jan. 2. The Jury which
held In its hands the fate of Hans
Schmidt, who has been on trial for
tho murder of Anna Aumuller, after
deliberating for moro than 32 hours,
was discharged on Tuesday by
Judge Foster after Lawrence Ottlnger,
the foreman, had Informed the court
that the 12 men were unable to agree
upon a verdict. When the Jury was
discharged they stood ten for convic
tion of murder in the first degree.
Washington, Jan. 6. The Progres
sive party, in line with the action of
the Democratic national committee
and the Republican congressional com
mittee has established campaign
headquarters in Washington and pre
liminary work will soon bo In full
swing.
New York, Jan. 5. That Sir Ernest
Shackleton Intends to visit America
before starting on his antarctic expe
dition is stated in cable advices from
London.
Lynoh Negro Taken From Jail.
Jefferson, Tex., Jan. 6. Fifteen
masked men took Dave Lee, a negro,
from the Madison county Jail here,
where ho was held charged with
wounding Matt Taylor, a constable,
and hanged him to a bridge.
Ralph Lopez Has Escaped.
Dlugham, Utah, Jan. 6. All hopes
ot finding Ralph Lopez, slayer of six
men, doad or alive, in tho Utah-Apox
mine were abandoned. Sheriff Smith
left tho mine unwatched for the first
r'rao 6lnco November 27.
I SPARKS FROM 1
I TgE WIREJ
NEW YORK
CHARLES 8TECLE.
Jersey Centra Railroad company
(Edward T. Stotesbury remains on
board).
United States Steel Corporation (J.
P. Morgan still Is a director),
H. P. DAVISON.
American Telephone and Telegraph
company.
Ator;TruVcpmpany (yy, h. Porter
Is a""3frector) "---.--,
Guaranty Trust company of New
York (T. W. Lamont Is on board).'
Chemical National bank.
W. H. PORTER.
Bankers Trust company (H. P.
Davison Is a director).
Guaranty Trust company of New
York (T. W. Lamont remains on
board).
THOMAS W. LAMONT.
Westinghouse Electric and Manu
facturing company.
Utah Copper company.
Astor Trust company (W. H. Porter
remains on board).
Bankers Trust company (H. P. Davi
son Is on board).
SIX BIG FIRMS FAIL
SIEGEL STORES CORPORATION IN
HANDS OF RECEIVER8.
Chicago Company Not Affected Con
cerns "Did an Annual Gross Busi
ness Estimated at $40,000,000.
Boston, Jan. 2. Ancillary receiv
ers were appointed on Tuesday In the
United States district court for six
corporations in which Henry Slegel
of New York is a large owner, on the
petition of the Slegel Stores corpora
tion. The concerns did an annual gross
business estimated at $40,000,000, but
it Is understood that their Christmas
busiuess did not como up to expecta
tions and they found themselves hard
pressed by curtailment of banking
credit. The failuro had be'en dis
counted in tho financial district, and
had no effect on the stock market
Tho companies for which receivers
were named aro:
Fourteenth street store, Now York.
Simpson-Crawford company. Now
York, a department store.
ilenry Siegel company, Boston, a de
partment store.
Henry Siegel &Co., bankers, Now
York.
Henry Slegel & Co., wholesalers, Now
York.
Merchants' Express company, New
York.
Efforts will be made to reorganize
tho chain of stores.
Battleship Goes to Mexico,
Philadelphia, Jan. 3, Tho battleship
Minnesota left the Philadelphia navy
yard for Vera Cruz, Mex.
Man Gives Self Hydrophobia.
Syracuse, N, Y Jan. 6. James M.
Hubbell died as the result of bolng bit
ten November 20 by a pet dog. It was
announced that hydrophobia, Induced
by auto-BUggeBtion, undoubtedly
caused death.
Probate Will Giving Maid 1100,000.
Philadelphia, Jan. C, Tho will ot
John Q. Watmough, which loft ?100,
000 to a maid and $400,0p0 to a man
and wife, who wero friends, Ignoring
all heiro-nt-law, was admitted to pro
liato. 1
PROGRAM FOR WEEK
ORGANIZED AGRICULTURE
LINCOLN. .
AT
GOSSIP FROM STATE CAPITAL
Items of Interest Qathered from Re
liable Sources and Presented Ir
Condensed Form to Our
Readers.
Thd dally program prepared for ne
coclotics which form organized agricul
ture, Which meets In Lincoln lu'glnnlni;
Monday, January ID, Js as follows:
Monday, January 19.
Corn Improvers' association Plant in
dustry bulldlnc, stato farm, toom 110.
Tuesday, January 0.
State board of agriculture Commercial
club rooms. Eleventh and P streets.
titato Horticultural society Lliidcll
hotl.
Nebraska Horse Drcedcrs' association
Judging pavilion, stato farm.
Corn Imprqvers' association Ttoom 110,
plant Industry building, statu farm. ,
State Homo Kconumlca association8
State farm, room 30G, agricultural hall.
Association of State, County and Ma
trlct Fairs Lincoln Commercial club, at
BUS.
Wednesday, January 21.
Stato board of agriculture Commercial
club rooms.
State Horticultural society Lindoll
hotel.
Stato Dalrymon'n nsioclatlon Plant In
dustry building, room 110.
State Hwlnu Breeders' association
Judging pavilion.
Nebraska Pure Seed Growers' associa
tionPlant Industry building, loom 207.
Stato Bee Keepers' association State
farm, agricultural hall, room Sl)3,
Stato Home Economics association-
State fatmr room 306, agricultural halt.
Good Honda association Stato farm,
agricultural hall, room 30G.
Nebraska Sheep Breeders and Wool
Growers' association State farm, Judging
puclllon, room 203.
Thursday, January 22.
State Horticultural society Lindoll
Stato Live Stock Improvers' association
State farm, Judging pavilion.
State, Shorthorn Breeders' association
Agricultural hall, state farm, room 10S.
State Hereford Breeders' association
Stato farm, agricultural hall, room 303.
Aberdeen Angus Brooders' association
State farm, agricultural hall, room 304.
Red Polled Breeders' association State
farm, agricultural hall, room SOS.
Dairy Cattle Breeders' association
Judging pavilion, state farm, loom 203.
Stato Dairymen's association State
farm, plant Industry building, room 110.
State Florists' association State farm,
plant room 207.
State Home Economics association
Bute farm, agricultural hall, room 306.
State Association of Rural School
Patrons State farm, agricultural hall,
room 303. ,
Nebraska tax commission Stato capl
tol, 9 b, m, v
Friday, January 23,
State Dairymen's association State
farm, plant Industry building, room 110.
Agricultural development commission
of Nebraska State farm, agricultural
hall, room 306.
Agricultural extension conference
Nebraska tax commission StaTe capl-
tol, 9 a. m.
Evening Events.
Monday evening, January '19 Apple,
floral, home cured meat, corn show, at
the city auditorium.
Tuesday evening, January 20 Banquet
ot tho Nebraska Htatu board of agricul
ture, and the Nebraska Association of
State, County and District Fair manag
ers, at 0:15 at the Lincoln Commercial
club. ,
State horticultural banquet, Llndell
hotel-at 6:30. Show at the city audi
torium. Moving pictures showing Ne
braska's resources, better babies contest
and scenes at the Btate fair will bo given
.jach evening.
Wednesday, Thursday and Friday
evenings Show at tho city auditorium.
Friday overling Banquot agi (cultural
extension conference, i
conference, Llndell hotel, G
p. m.
Following are dates and places at
which farmers' Institutes aro to bo
held during the month of January:
Fairmont, Friday and Saturday,
January 9 and 10.
Crelghton, Friday and Saturday,
January 9 and 10.
Pierce, Monday and Tuesday, Janu
ary 12 and 13.
Madison, Monday and Tuesday,
January 12 and 13.
Creston. Tuesday and Wednesday,
January 13 and 14.
Osmond, Tuesday and Wednesday,
January 13 and 14.
Howolls. Wednesday nnd Thursday,
January 14 and 15.
Laurel, Wednesday and Thursday,
January. 14 and 16.
Humphrey, Thursday and Friday,
January 15 and 1C.
Papilllon, Thursday and Friday,
January 15 and 16.
Hartington, Thursday and Friday,
January 16 and 1G.
Wakefield, Friday and Saturday,
January 16 and 17,
Elkhorn, Friday and Saturday, Jan
uary 1C and 17,
Labor Commissioner Pool has many
applications on file from men who de
sire to work on farms. Farmers who
need help aro Invited by him to take
advantage ot his freo employment
bureau.
Counting Infants that never
breathed, there wore 852 moro deaths
In Nebraska in the year 1913 than
thero wero in tho year 1912. Dr. W. H,
Wilson, inspector for tho state board
of health, who Is in charge of tho col
lection of vital statistics, has com
pleted his annual report It shows a
total of 11,254 deaths. Tho number
reported the year beforo was 10,402,
While the death rate was higher this
year, the birth rate was lower. Last
year a total of 26,697 births were re
ported. This ycur the number Is
26,153.
Half of Envelopes Addressed.
The secretary ot state's special
force of assistants, employed to ad
dress 250,000 large envelopes In which
printed matter relating to measures
submitted under the initiative and
referendum will be mailed next year
'to Nebraska voters, has finished prac
tically one-half of tho work. En
velopes for the voting inhabitants of
Lincoln and Lancaster county, the
cities ot Omaha nnd South Omaha
have all been addressed.
nave an oeen nuaresson. The secre-
tary of stato has received lists ot
voters irom an out iweivo counties
MODISH TAFFETA
DRESS FOR LESS
THAN TEN DOLLARS
TAFFETA which promises to bo tho
most fashlonablo of silks, by tho
wny Is ono of tho most beautiful of
fabrics and ono of tho least bxpenslvo.
It Is woven In widths varying from
about twenty-four to thirty-six Inches,
with both narrower and wldor widths
occasionally shown. Tho prico ranges
from about seventy-flvo conts to a
dollar and a half a yard for averago
woight In tho twenty-Tour and. thirty-Blx-lnch
patterns.
Tho thlrty-slx-lnch width Is most
convenient for cutting tho prosont
Btyles In gowns, and ono may calcu
late tho amount required as equal to
four times tho height of tho figure,
with a ltttlo allowance for hems, in
the narrower widths. In thoso a yard
wide or more only twice tho length ot
tho figure, plus a half-yard, will be
needed. This extra half-yard is con
sumed by hems and scant drapery In
tho skirt.
If tho design selected calls for an
overdress or extra drapery, moro ma
terial will be required. Patterns des
ignate the amount needed, but for a
slmplo drose tho allowance glvon
sbovo Is sufficient
In tho slmplo and attractive dress
shown in the picture a taffeta a yard
wide was used, and four yards made
the garment It is in a sapphire blue
(shot with black), with a high luster
which Is very brilliant and effective.
The skirt is in two widths, shaped
at the sides to fit the hips. The back
breadth has a small cluster of gathers
&t tho middle ot the belt to give the
asarwii
..isMjBJI7
iTil SBSSSSSSSsWlK''-'
I- 'LsSSSSSSSsHir' ...nun i.
Neckwear an Important Accessory
h7BLVRBJBHSra2flS4 JBBjIsBbbbbbbbBBS 'I -"-
AREFUL attention to the finishing
details of tho toilette is a mark of
fltstlnctlve dressing. This is apparent
n tho matter of neckwear, and new
Ideas aro advanced constantly by
manufacturers ot this Important ac
cessory of dress. A stylo is introductvl
and makes good with tho publio, be
coming a fashion. Its manufacturers
then vary it to suit women ot various
types and ages.
Tho sailor collar and fichu motifs
havo predominated this season, and in
numerable changes havo been tho re
sult of their Inspiration.. But they
aro designed for tho attractive and
youthful neck and. must be adapted to
thoBo who do not possess a round,
plump throat.
A guimpe of perfectly plalnr fine not,
with high, 'smoothly fitting collar, Is
worn by tho woman whoso nock is not
sightly when bare. This net is so fine
and so well fitted that it 1b as smooth
as tho skin and smoother.
Besides tho fichu and sailor collar
Ideas thero are many small fancy
bows, ribbon flowers and Mallno orna
ments Jor wearing as a finish at tho
neck. Jabots aro always worn and
when they are not featured are re
placed with frills finishing the "V"
ihaped opening at the neck ot blouses.
Thoy aro especially becoming to slen
der women, and tho fine laces in style
tt present mako beautiful ones.
In designing neckwear thoso who
produco it must consider how to mako
It becoming, and women in selecting
" ,"""" "'"" """", " " ,::
lbl or ot for them' Tbe Jabok vih I
It must consider whether it is suit
required fullness, and Is hemmed alonrf
ono edge. This edge Is folded over
tho front breadth curving In tpward
tho bottom, and it stitched down to
within eight Inches' ' of the bottom.
From horo down It falls open, but the
front breadth lies under the opening.
This glvos room for an easy stop.
There Is a three-inch hem at tho bot
tom of tho skirt
Thoklmona waist is cut with body
and sleeves In one, with two plaits
over tho shoulders. This glvos the
effect under tho arms of the fashlon
ablo "bat wing" slcevo.
, Tho open, nock and sleeves are out
lined with a narrow border of black
fur, of which about two and a quar
ter yards aro required.
Anyono who knows even a little
about sewing can put this very slmplo
dress togotber. Tho skirt fastens
with hooks nnd eyes (very small ones)
at tho left fildo, under tho horn In tho
back breadth. It Is hung to a fitted
girdlo. Tho klmona blouse is worn
over a net waist or ksVckplece and
fastens surplico fashion in tho front.
A girdlo ot ribbon or a fancy belt
Is. needed to finish this gown, and
thero aro sovoral styles that look well
with it Tho handsomest is tho Ro
man striped girdlo showing brilliant
colors. This is mado ot ribbon about
eight inches wido, finished with a
loop and short ends at tho front
A crushed girdlo of brocaded ribbon
in tho rich colors of tho season, fast
ened with a black velvet bucklo at tho
loft side, is very pretty. It has
no
ends, but is mushed with an
over-
lapping rufilo.
A girdlo mado of black satin ribbon
laid in folds about the waist and fin
ished with a single long tab, makce a
quiet finish. This tab should be
rounded ut the ond and embroidered
In bright colors, or gathered 'with a
long tassel of Bilk or beads.
Allowing four and a halt yards ol
silk at a dollar and a quarter a yard,
two and' a quarter yards of fur at
forty cents a yard, the materials, in
cluding sowing silk and hooks arid
eyes, may bo bought for eeven dollars.
This leaves throe' dollars for the
girdlo and under waist out ot an ap
propriation of ten dollars. But nearly
every one possesfles-a-lhln-walstthat
Is available tor these klmona blouses,
and girdles are a part of everyone's '
wardrobe this winter. At any rate,
ten dollars will cover the expense of t
all the materials needed to furnish
the gown, the girdle and the het un- -der
waist.
Somesf the new shades of dark
green, the light shades of brownana
the dull reds make up In this style
into gowns as satisfactory as the one
pictured, which is smart and very use
ful JULIA BOTTOM LEY.
straight band mado of net finished at
tho top with three tucks, shown in the
picture, 1b suited to the woman with
a slim, long neck. Below the tucks
a row of tiny Jet beads or French
knots make a pretty finish and lessen
the apparent width of tbe collar.
The Jabot attached to tho band la
ot finest shallow lace and simulates
fichu ends. Black velvet ribbon out
lines an opening at the throat where
the fine net of tho collar Is let In
In a small narrow "V." The Jabot is
finished at tho bottom wlth-n, ltttlo
velvet bow. Very email festoons of Jet
beads fasten the upper ends of tho
velvet to tho neckband. They mark
the point ot tho "V" and aro placed
Still more cleverly designed to tho
needs of a too-slender neck Is tha
other collar and Jabot It U made of
loco and black satin. The band is a
straight piece of lace with the scal
loped edge, folded down like a turn-.
over collar. The Jabot to ot tie same
laco cascaded to the front, Tw
shaped pieces of satin aro cut 0
and lined with fine muslin or mV
They are sewed to ,the collar
upper part ot the Jabot and flni
with French knots in blue silk.
The graceful sailor collar of
and the not collar with frill of
tbe front are new patterns lrj
popular neck pieces. The ue
Is double with insertion and
a fine Cluny pattern ot lne
lace. This collar is quite
sign and combines tbe ady
the fichu and Jabot,
JULIA lOT
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