TW. BECJLAKATION
Mourning Apparel
P o.
INDEPENDENCE
w
III 0 ' , tJ
11
HE IMMORTAL Instrument
which waB Blgned by John
Hancock on July 4, 1776,
has meant more than the
growth and development of
an Independent nation on
this Bide of the Atlantic. It
was In Itself the re-enactment
of the greatest bill of
human rights ever penned,
which received tho sljrnet
of an unwilling king at Run-
nymede, and the birth of
constitutional liberty. In these days of peace
and plenty the Fourth of July is given to "sa
lutes of cannon and the ringing of lella and
to the feu do Jole," with variations, as John
Adams predicted that It would bo, yet the
obHervance of the Fourth as an occasion for
recalling memories past and giving thanks for
the deeds of the patriot forefathers Is sporadic
rather than general in the United States. The
Declaration of Independence is not read fom
the rostrum, as It once was In every commu
nity and the orators to the links have gone.
So much has beer, taken here as a matter
of course that It seems hard to realize that
this anniversary Is celebrated In the very Eng
land from which liberty was wrested and that
observances of It are officially ordered In
many lands beyond the seas. The Fourth of
July has become International In scope, for It
has changed the governments of nations
whose capitals are far from Independence hall.
So widespread have Its effects become as
studied In the light of the present day that
In order to get the true value of all that the
declaration signifies to the world In 1910 It Is
necessary to go back to the very beginning
of American liberty.
Had not the ideas of government held by
the colonists been essentially British there
would probably never have been any Declara
tion of Independence. It Is as natural for the
Briton to demand his rights as It Is for him to
live. The War of the Revolution was largely
due to the fact that the two thousand miles of
water between London and the colonies caused
parliament to lose sight of the ties of consan
guinity and of race.
Although the original thirteen colonies
were so essentially English In thought and
feeling they had never actually been estab
lished by England as a national enterprise.
The only one which had ever received any
official aid whatever was Georgia, and that
was not sufficient to carry any such feeling
of dependence as is essential for the preserva
tion of intimate colonial relations. The right
to colonize the North American continent had
been granted by charters from a British king.
According to the feudal system, which was
1 I II I II B
Ihen rapidly becoming effaced, the king owned
all the land and distributed It among various
favored vassals.
The sovereign in the same way regarded
the new world as If It had been won by the
word. The most extravagant Ideas prevailed
with regard to the wealth of the American
lands. It was at one time soberly believed
In England that gold and silver and precious
tones could be had for the taking and that
the natives were the possessors of fabulous
wealth. The king gave the charters in most
eases with the Idea that he would profit great
ly from mines which would yield enormous
returns to the royal exchequer.
When the colonists came here they found
It necessary to make good their titles either
by peaceful bargains with the Indians or by
force of arms. From the very first the spirit
of Independence was fostered, for fiefs which
had to be maintained by constant vigilance
and negotiations and by show of force did not
carry with them a deep sense of obligation.
Indeed, even at that early day, although for
the throne the colonists entertained feelings
of loyalty and devotion, a shrewd idea was
abroad that the king did not really own the
land which he had bestowed by his charter.
The conquest of nature and of the savages be
got a rugged Independence which as the years
went by became more and more distasteful
to the authorities In England. 1
Yet the Idea of separation from the crown
was of slow growth. The forefathers main
tained that they were British subjects, al
though not living within the realm, as indeed
was rpeclfled In some of the royal charters.
The Massachusetts charter, for instance, sets
forth that the colonists shall be considered
"as if they and every one of them were born
within the realm of England." As British sub
ject, then, they maintained that they should
) entitled to representation, and therefore
each colony had Its assembly, which deter
mined upon all matters of the common weal
anl established rates of taxation. It was one
of the principles expressed In the Magna Char
ta that the common council of the kingdom
"whs o assess an aid or to assess a scutage."
and again.
In 1688, It
was de
clared by
the British
p e o pie,
then well
oo their
way to
cons tltu
tlonal lib
erty, that
"no money
was to be
levied for
the crown
w i thout
grant of
The Declaration of Rights was a forerun
ner of the Declaration of Independence. There
Is nothing more essentially British than the
dictum that there shall b'e no taxation without
representation. Of the early American states
men only Franklin and Otis wished to have
representation In the British parliament. The
others considered that their own assemblies
should be the legislative bodies entirely and
that If any taxes were to be Imposed they
should be collected only with the consent of
the colonial assemblies.
The question of taxation, however, did not
enter Into any controversies, for It was not
until the middle of the eighteenth century that
Great Britain, exhausted by many wars and
seeking to replenish the national treasury,
sought extraordinary means for raising reve
nue and her ministers proposed that the col
onies, which had been growing In wealth and
Importance, should bo made to contribute to
the impoverished exchequer. The French and
Indian war had shown the power of the col
onies and their force and had given a very
definite idea of their growing wealth and im
portance. Having reached the decision to tax the col
onies, the ministry did not spend any time In
preliminaries. It was decided that parliament
had the right to levy the taxes and the fact
that the colonies had no representation in that
body was not taken into account. Such a mat
ter would ordinarily have been considered a
subject for delicate negotiation, but, the deci
sion to tax having once been made, no time
wasi lost in levying it.
England had in effect been a constitutional
monarchy since the signing of the Magna
Churta in 1215 and In taxing the colonies not
represented In the common council of the
kingdom Bhe had violated one of the oldest of
the rights which every Briton claims.
Such was the situation in 1764, when the
struggle began which 12 years later brought
forth the Declaration of Independence, and the
next year brought into being the first congresH
of the American colonies, which decided that
the assembly had the power to fix taxes. The
stump act was tho first heavy Impost levied
by the mother country, which provided for the
stamping of various legal instruments and pa
pers and contract of all kinds, as well as dice
and playing cards.
The news of the passage of this act roused
the colonl3ts to fury. A gallows was erected
in what Is now City Hall park. New York, and
the British governor was hanged In effigy, and
the house of Major Jones, In command of the
British regiment, was sacked. Then came the
rising of the "Sons of Liberty" and the raising
of the liberty poles. Boston and Philadelphia
were vortices of the storm. So emphatic was
the protest that much of the act was repealed
and duties were established on tea, which ac
counted for tho sudden rain of tea In Boston
harbor. Then came the burning words of Pat
rick Henry, 'Tllve me liberty or give me
death!" before the Virginia in 1773. The year
later brought the promulgation of the "Dec
laration of Rights and Privileges," In which It
was declared that every man had "the right
to" life, liberty and property and that most
ancient right granted at Runnymede, trial by
his "peers of the vicinage."
Throughout all this time of storm and
strain the protests were made as British sub
jects, and that congress which met in Carpen
ter's hall in 1774 was still loyal to the crown.
It petitioned the king, remonstrated with par
liament and appealed to their brethren In Eng
land. Then came Lexington and Concord. The
congress of 1775 made provisions for an army,
with Washington as commander, and still pe
titioned. Its petition was refused and mer
cenaries were hired from petty German
princes to quoting the words of Losslng
"butcher British subject! for asserting the
rights of British subjects."
Richard Henry Lee of Virginia offered the
independence resolution in June, 177C, and a
committee was appointed to draft the declara
tion, consisting of Thomas Jefferson, John Ad
ams, Benjamin Franklin, Roger Sherman and
Robert Livingston. Jefferson wrote the docu
ment and alterations were made principally
at the suggestion of Franklin and Adams. The
paper was submitted to congress on June 28.
It was laid on the table until July 1, when nine
colonies voted In favor of It.
The Independence resolution was actually
adopted on July 2 and promulgated to the
world on July 4, when John Hancock of Massa
chusetts affixed to It his bold signature.
The other members of the congress did not
sign It until August 2, and the Impressive
scene connected with the signing was not wit
nessed until nearly a month later, although It
is popularly associated with the Fourth of
July. '
Centuries of the progress of the rights of
man bear witness in the DiKlaratlon. That "all
men are created equal and are endowed by
their Creator with certain unalienable rights,
that among these are life, liberty and the pur
suit of happiness," was not new, for it was
recognized at Binal. That governments derive
their Just powers from the consent of tho gov
erned had been stated and restated In many
ways slnco tho beginning of the colonle
Thomas Jefferson was criticized at the tlm
for lack of originality in the declaration. Th
document gained all the greater force from 1U
statement of self-evident truths. Never was
there a more masterly presentation oX a bill of
grievances than is contained in the Declaration,
which "submits the facts to a candid world."
Arraigning the British king for acts of tyr
anny, It sets forth that he refused "his assent
to laws the most wholesome and necessary tor
the public good," meaning that George III. had
prevented the issue of colonial currency and
had refused representation to his American sub-
it wa tlesired on tho part of the New York
assembly to enter into a treaty with the Six
Nations, but the governor prevented the nego
tiation of the treaty until he could obtain the
consent of the king.
He did not proceed further because he feared
that such an act would lead to Independence.
Henc the expression, "He has forbidden his
governors to pass laws of immediate and press
ing importance."
Grievances of the Massachusetts colony,
which was deprived of representation and suf
fered interference In popular elections because
cf its wish to trade with Nova Scotia, suggest
ed the paragraph:
"He has refused to pass other lawB for the
accommodation of large districts of people un
less those people should relinquish the right of
representation In the legislature, a right 'ines
timable to them and formidable to tyrants
only."
To further humble the Massachusetts colony
and to punish the participants In the tea party
of 1773 the assembly was called in Salem, and
not in Boston. Hence the words of the docu
ment, "He has called together legislative bodies
at places unusual, uncomfortable and distant
from the depository of their public records."
Massachusetts colony and others had adopt
ed resolutions in their assemblies that there
should be no taxation without the consent ol
the governed. The Massachusetts assembly
was asked to rescind Its resolution in 1768 and
on Its refusal to do so was dissolved. The as
semblies of Virginia and North Carolina met
the same fate. This state of affairs is summed
up In the Declaration In the words, "He has dis
solved representative houses repeatedly for op
posing with much firmness his Invasion on the
rights of the people."
The Declaration protests against the Judges
being dependent on the will of the king for
their salaries, and, indeed, in some of the col
onies many of the judges had been Impeached
for declaring that they would receive their sal
aries from the royal treasury.
Graphically the authors of the document tell,
how the erection of a multitude of new offices
had Impoverished the country, referring to the
collectors appointed to carry out the provisions
of the stamp act. The quartering of troops In
times of peace was a substantial grievance com
plained of, for the king Insisted on retaining
British regiments here after the French and
Indian war at the expense of the colonists, os
tensibly for defense but In reality to suppress a
growing democracy.
The words, "He has affected to render the
military independent of and suporior to the ciTil
power," refer to the position taken by General
Gage, who, with several regiments of British
troops, was in Boston. By order of the king
he had been made superior to the civil govern
ment.
Here and there through the colonies Ameri
cans had been killed In altercations with Brit
ish soldiers, who were subsequently put on trial
and acquitted. The Declaration accuses the
king of quartering largo bodies of armed troops
and of "protecting them by mock trial from
punishment for any murders which they may
commit."
Such were the principles enunciated in the
Declaration, and how well they were sustained
by the arbitrament of war the world knows.
The nation began celebrating the glorious
Fourth from the very beginning. Salutes of 18
cannon were fired by the army In 1777, and ths
new republic was pledged in wine.
West Point saw a significant ce'ebratlon in
1779, when General Washington issued a par
don for all prisoners In the army under sen
tence of death. The last celebration of the
army of trie Revolution as such took place OR
both Bhores of the Hudson river and a grand
salute was fired.
More of the nature of a festival dominated
the Fourth after 178.1, for then came parades,
free dinners, toasts, the reading of the Doclars
Hon In public by citizens and more and more
the participation of the younger generation.
Dignity add solemnity marked these early cele
brations and eloquent speeches were made.
The Fourth Is a statutory holiday in every
state and Its fame has gone beyond the seas.
HE death of England's king throws
nearly all the courts of Europe
into mourning and in consequence
tho subjects of mourning apparel and
mourning etiquette are up for con
sideration more generally than for
many years. Customs change slowly,
especially those which rule in matters
of greatest moment. Rules of eti
quette governing in the events of
death, marriage, births and social
functions of high importance have all
been carefully thought out and are
the crystallzed expressions of con
sideration for others. They are form
ulated from the conduct of those
whose good taste and keen Intuitions
put them In position to set examples.
Much latitude in allowed Individual
taste In the matter of mourning ap
parel. Some people decry any special
drees for those in mourning, on the
ground that we should not divide our
sorrows with others. But the great
majority feel that tho assumption of
mourning attire is Imperative as a
sign of respect to the dead or to his
family ns well as an outward token
of a sense of loss. To Ignore a death
seems to cast a slight upon the worth
of the departed soul; therefore, an in
creasing number of persons In the
best social circles assume what Is
called "complimentary mourning."
This Is either a badge of mourning of
some sort, or tho wearing of black for
a short term. This la a different mat
ter from the mourning apparel as
sumed by members of a family. Com
plimentary mourning does not Involve
me restrictions which that of rela
tives assumes. Certain fabrics are
chosen for those in mourning. These
are crape, silk genadlne. nuns-veiling.
bombazine, net, uncut velvet, crepe-de-
enme, mourning silks, felt, voile and
other fabrics of a Jet black hue and
soft luster or dull finish. Crape is
recognized ns the correct fabric for
first mourning everywhere, and Is in
fact the insignia of mourning. Crape
Is used as a finish, or decoration, on
other fabrics, and sometimes entire
garments are made of It. It Is a beau
tiful fabric mode of silk and having
FOR YOUNG LADY.
Ranch Life in New Mexico
Whtre Game Is Plentiful Modtrn
Farmhouse With Every Good
Thing to Eat.
"Around my ranch in the rough
foothills of the Guadeloupe mountains
in New Mexico there Is still a lot of
tig game," said H. D. Freeman of
Carlsbad, N. M.
"Just before leaving borne this
never yet have I been able to bring
spring I killed one of the biggest
antelope I ever saw. Besides ante
lope there are black-tailed deer in
abundance and a few, very few, moun
tain sheep. The sheep are now pro
tected by law, and there Is a heavy
penalty for killing them. They are
the wariest, shyest game of all, and
one down. I have seen old nunters
out west who admit that they have
never been adroit enough to kill a
mountain sheep.
"They range In the remotest and
most Inaccessible reglourf, and It takes
pluck and endurance to search for
them amid their rocky haunts away
up on the mountain sides. They are
about the same color as the rocks
and the hunter who has not provided
himself with a field glass has small
chance of ever seeing one. Thefr
flesh, which I have occasionally eaten,
is the most palatable of all wild meat.
Juicy and of exceptional flavor.
"Quail are so numerous in my lo
cality that It Is not often I think of
shooting them, and they are nearly as
tame rs city sparrows. If I merely
started out to slaughter I could easily
kUl 100 In a few hours.
"Although I live sixty miles from a
railroad, my wife and I never get
lonesome. Neighbors are few, but we
enjoy going about the ranch on horse
back and life in the open alrmakes
rou sleep touudlr and tJbs rMlof 4t
velope a hearty appetite. Occasionally
friends come to stay with us for a
week who are amazed that they can
find in such an out of the way spot
as delicious vegetables and fruits as
ever they got at home. I grow grapes,'
apricots, peaches, strawberries, cheri
rles, apples and every good eatable
you can think of In a garden which'
never falls me because It Is under Ir
rigation. TJiere Is hot and cold water,
In every room of my houee, and It U
the only domicile that has a bataroonV
within a radius vf 104 miles."
This is a very smart frock suitable
to be made In cashmere, silk and wool
crepon, or any fine woolen.
The corselet bodice and side of
skirt are cut in one to below hips;
the front Is a panel to foot; the lower
part of side and back of skirt is plait
ed; braiding forms the trimming on
skirt and front of bodice, a simple
border being worked at edge of the
shoulder straps. The under slip Is of
piece lace.
diagonal rib or crinkle across the sur
face. It Is made In both dull and
silky luster; the dull finish is consid
ered the more elegant Recently it is
much used In dress accessories, such
as collars, cuffs and bands, and in
stoles and muffs, for those In deep
mourning. Silk grenadine Is very gen
erally worn In this country for veils,
as shown In Fig. 1. It Is light in
weight, supple and durable. It is used
In the open weaves for face veils and
is often bordered. For summer, large
mesh silk veils, bordered with a fold
of crape, are worn, with millinery
made of or trimmed with these ma
terials, the crape nearly always ap
poerlng In a flat border or fold. Eng
lish manufacturers have succeeded in
waterproofing these fabrics so that
rain or moisture does them no harm.
The transition from deep mourning
to colors Is accomplished gradually.
After a certain period of time, more
or less long at the discretion of the
wearer, the mourning veil Is discard
ed; next crape Is eliminated. .The at
tire is next All black, but not neces
sarily of recognized mourning fabrics.
After black, gray, the cold lavenders
and white are worn. White may be
worn with black accessories for
mournlug, and Is correct, but is more
often assumed for what is called "sec
ond mowning," that is, in the period
of transition from mourning to colors.
There Is nothing so dignified and
nothing more elegant than a well
chosen mourning costume. In choosing
models or patterns for making mourn
ing gowns or hats (or any garment)
plain, neat and elegant designs are
correct. Nothing "fussy" is admissi
ble. No extremes of tho mode are to
be considered. For millinery neither
very largo or very small hats, but
those in shapes which are always
worn should be selected. Exquisite
workmanship must characterize the
work of both milliner and dressma
ker. Fortunately the regular mourn
Ing fabrics, crape, bombazine and nuns
veiling, all are adapted to the sort of
work required.
JULIA BOTTOM LEY.
USEFUL FOR THE TRAVELER
Pin Case An Almost Indispensable
- Requisite When One Is on a
Journey.
A new form of the well-known pin
case for traveling Is being shown just
now that makes acceptable prises or
a present for European travelers.
The case Is formed like a wallet
with a flap at the side that buttons
over with a patent clasp. This is
made of cardboard covered first with
cotton batting, then with cretonne,
fancy brocades, ribbons or with an
embroidered linen case.
Inside there Is a single leaf adjust
ed to back of case like the page of a
book. This is covered on both sides
with white eiderdown or flannel,
which is carried over to line the Bides
of case as well.
In this lining Is stuck on the outer
cast safety pins in all sizes and col
ors. On both sides of the inner page
are arranged big headed pins in vari
ous sizes and color. These can form
fancy borders or a star figure below
and a border or other artistic group
ing. These cases may be made In any
convenient size; one four by five
inches gives plenty of space.
About Veils.
When money is scarce there seems
nothing that runs awav wih nn-
money so fast as veils. Their life
is a very snort-iivea one and often a
misadventure ruins them as soon as
bought. Yet we must wear them If
we want to look smart, and to buy
cheap ones Is morse than useless, as
they never look well from the day
they are bought. The truest ecenomy
Is to buy fine net by the yard, says the
Woman's Life. It cuts to better ad
vantage, you get four veils for the
price of one, and it is of a far better
quality and laBts longer than if you
buy veiling pure and simple.
Rather a Startling Effect
Chantecler Craze Responsible for
Veil Which Is, to Say the '
Least, Daring.
Most remarkable of all the examples
of the chantecler craze which has dis
played itself in wearing apparel is the
chantecler veil, which has been recent
ly placed on the market, and which la
enjoying quite a little popularity in
some quarters where the eccentric is
neither feared nor disliked. The veil is
of rather open meshed black net, on
which there is the design of chantecler
facing the rising sun. Both chantecler
and the sun are sizable and showy and
the effect is decidedly striking.
The deslgu is so arranged that one
rooster may rest over one eye when
the veil Is In place, another rooster
over the other, while the rising sun Is
situated over the bridge of the nose.
Of course, a less startling adjustment
U possible, and with care the eyes
may be covered only with the net
voile the rooster decorations (all to
the cheeks and the rising sun accents
tne end of the nose.
Hat Contrasts With Suit.
For years we thought it was the cor
rect artistic thing to have the hat
match the gown. Now it is not con
sidered fashionable, even If it is ar
tistic. It is not amiss to have a sug
gestion of the gown in the hat Some
people do this, but It is not necessary.
The best-dressed women wear suits,
we will say, of bluck and white check
and a hat of burnt straw trimmed with
chantecler red. Not only is the con
trast violent, but we like It.
Provide 8weater First.
The girl who intends spending her
summer vacation In the mountains
should not forget that the sweater Is
by far the most important garment of
the outing wardrobe.
Not only Is It more practical than
any sort of tailored coat, but It, in
especially suited to the rough wear
which sporting togs of all kinds ar
necessarily sublected to.
