The monitor. (Omaha, Neb.) 1915-1928, February 23, 1923, Page Four, Image 4

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    TO DEPART FROM
6IRLISH FROCKS
Coming Winter May See Passing
of Flapper Type of Dress,
Writer Asserts.
ORATED ON CLASSIC LINES
Important Part la Played by Decora
tion*—Circular Effect* Obtained
by Godot* and Panel*—Wid*
Skirts for Evening.
Fashlons are becoming more sophis
ticated. The flapper has met a for
midable rival In the woman. So this
winter, writes a fashion correspondent
In the New York Tribune, may see
the passing of the flapper type of
dress.
All of the new styles show a strong
tendency to depart from the Juvenile
types so prevalent during the past few
year*. They embody dignity and im
portance, two characteristics which of
late years have been almost entirely
lacking In dress.
The long skirt and the many varia
tlons of drapery now In use have
helped to bring about these changes.
The Important part played by drapery
rather handicaps the amateur dress
maker. No more can she hope to be
dressed In the height of fashion In
the simple chemise frock which she
made so easily. No she must include
in her wardrobe gowns draped on clas
sic lines.
The ways In which drapery has
vacillated In the position that it shall
take In regard to the dress Is some
what astonishing. It began by adorn
ing the side of the frock. After as
Burning numerous other positions It .
now elects to make the front the most j
Important part of the gown.
Circular Effect* Obtained.
Many think It comparatively easy j
to popularize a new style and that |
women are waiting to welcome any 1
thing new and striking in dress. Thii- !
Is not so. A real change In fashions j
is brought about very, very slowly. It !
is months, sometimes a year, after a J
style Is shown before it Is accepted
even in a limited way. Take, for In
stance, the circular skirt. Two years
ago designers put their best effects (
Into models with circular skirts In an
endeavor to make this fashion popu
lar, and during the intervening time
the best creators of styles have from
time to time tried to force them. But i
It is only this autumn that we see this
type of skirt making real progress.
It Is not unusual to see skirts that
are plain and tight across the back
with circular panels in the front and
at the sides, thus making a compro
mise between the straight line and the
circular.
While daytime dresses show fan
shaped godets and front draplngs.
there Is a strong tendency toward
really wide skirts for the evening.
Skirts are very long. Lanvin, al
ways the exponent of youth in dress,
makes her models longer than those
of any other dressmaker In Paris. So
we may expect to see the extremely
long-skirted frock taken up by young
girls. This always Is favorable to the
■-*
Showing the French Frock of Plaited I
Crepe do Chine.
success of a fashion, because all wom
en like to appear youthful, and the
style that youth elects to make Its
own invariably becomes the prevailing
mode.
Deviate From Bateau Neckline.
Iieslgners are trying to do away
with the popular bateau neckline,
and In their endeavor have Introduced
severs! Interesting outlines for the
necks of dresses, among the most un
usual being the one-sided effect. There
Is the deep V-shaped neck cut high
,tt' the back and extremely low In
lront. This type requires a gllet oi
modesty piece, as the French caH It
A Hew French frock In whlcf’ th*
Town Has Biggest Dance Hall.
The town of Douglas, In the Isle of
Man, boasts of having the largest and
most comprehensive place of amuse
ment In the world. One of Its chief
features Is u dance hall capable of ac
commodating a thousand couples at
one time.
TnougM for ths Day.
Some people think they are con
xervative when they are really Ig
norant.
'V
one-sided effect U exaggerated a 1 moot
to the point where It becomes bizarre.
Is Important, as It stresses the strong
tendency toward one-sided effect! In
both neckline and sleeve. On one side
the dress Is cut so high that It nearly
forms a collar and slopes so far to the
opposite side that It falls over the
shoulder. The right side allows one
long, tight sleeve, while there Is no
Sleeve for the left side.
One-SIdo Trimming.
Another model emphasizing thla
tendency In dress Is of pure Greek
Inspiration, the drapery falling In
classic lines from the right shoulder.
This is a Polret model In rose, blue
and white silk, with a very unusual
trimming consisting of crocheted
bands wrapping about the shoulders.
Hats as well as dresses have come
nnder the Influence of one-sided trim
ming. Some unusual trimmings ap
pear. A lace scarf tied In a tailored
how on a plain velvet hat Is quite out
of the ordinary. Following In the
I-—-1
Gown in Blue and White Crepe Ro
main, Steel Ebmroidery.
train of the long trailing scarfs used
on hats during the past summer, the
ends of this lace scarf fall to the
wearer’s knees. This Is a simple type
of hat, but extremely picturesque and
graceful.
Metal lace is far more popular in
autumn millinery than It deserves to
he. for nothing less practical as a hat
trimming could well be Imagined.
Many of the high-crowned hats of the
• Second Empire period show one-sided
trimmings In the form of birds or dus
ters of small feathers.
Great extravagance Is apparent In
the lavish use of fur trimmings on
this autumn's clothes. Chinchilla and
monkey head the list. Monkey In
black Is still a big lender, though
gray and sable color will be much in
demand. Narrow double fringes of
monkey set together with a fancy
braid are much used as a trimming.
Therp Is every Indication that many
short capes will he worn—that Is.
cape collars nearly large enough to
he considered wraps. It Is In these
pieces that the furrier shows his artls
try in making patterns In one fur
and filling the Interstices with a se<
ond fur.
The New Coiffure.
Hairdressing has always played an
important part In the history of fash
ion Today the coiffure and its appen
dages are receiving even more atten
tion than usual. Aside from the fact
that a woman's appearance Is either
made or marred by the manner la
which she dresses her hair, there was
hound to be a keen reaction from the
far-reaching bobbed-hair vogue. In
deed, It would hardly seem appropri
ate to combine the more dignified
types of dresses and their lengthened
and draped lines with anything but
real dignity in hairdressing.
In Paris at the present time tbe
fashion is to draw' the hair back tight
ly to reveal the ears. For some time
past even the woman who was the
fortunate possessor of beautifully
shaped ears was compelled to dress
her hair so as to completely conceal
them.
In the winter of 1921 this mode of
hairdressing was affectPd by many
smart women, particularly In Paris,
hut was not taken up very widely, nor
with much enthusiasm. There Is still
some doubt as to whether it will he
generally accepted this year because
It Is undoubtedly a trying fashion.
Matching Headdress for Gown.
Many women will not he willing to
adopt this mode of hairdressing In the
daytime, but will, aided by one of the
new hair hands, find It quite attrac
tive In the evening. These bands are
made of tinsel-edged velvet leaves
colored to match the gown, of rhine
stones and velvet combined, of metal-'
lie brocades, silver lame, flow'ers and
feathers, as well as all sorts of pearl j
crystal and colored beads.
Occasionally the maker of the eve
nlng gown designs a headdress to ac
company It. With the wide choles i
which obtains In the selection of hall
ornaments and bandeaux and the op- j
portunity of having a real artist create !
a suitable one, there Is no longer anj
necessity for wearing anything lnap
proprinte or unbecoming.
Reserved for All Ages.
All that mankind has done, thought,
gained or been—It Is lying as in magic
preservation In the pages of books.—
Carlyle.
Bookshelves for Children.
Teach children the proper care of
their books by having low bookshelves
around tbe wall* of their room and In
sisting upon their putting their books
In place after the story hour.
■ ■ ’--f
SNAKE DANCE IS
ACE OLD RITE
Weird Ceremony Is Performed
Yearly by Hopi Indians.
HANDLE REPTILES UNHARMED
Tradition Says Ceremony Originated
During Great Drought Which Waa
Broken When the Children Went
Out on the Plain and Gathered
Snake* and Played and Danced
With Them — Sometime* Dancer*
Are Bitten, but They Do Not Evan
Get Sick.
Many years ago a great drought vis
Ited the land of tlie Hopi Indians, in
nortiiern Arizona, according to an In
dian legend. The corn and tlie mel
ons died and there vvus no game. By
uud by the people themselves began
to die of hunger and thirst. The o.d
men planted many prayer sticks. The
gods were invoked in every way the
lieople could devise. But no rain
came. There was great suffering.
Then tlie children said: "We must
help. How can we make the gods lis
ten? By doing something that we
hate.” So they went out on tlie platn
below and gathered snakes, and
played with them, putting them In
their mouths, and singing and danc
ing with them.
Then came great rains and the
people's lives were saved. And the
old men said: "The children have
, pleased the gods by playing with that
which the gods love. We have learned
our lesson.” So they hound themselves
In tlie great snake fraternity, made
songs and prayers, and once every
year since then they have ap|>ealed
to Hip gods for rain with their "snake
brothers.” who are the messengers to
the underworld, says Frederick J. Has
kin in tlie Chicago Dally News.
Dance Remains the Same.
Tlie dance is carried out now in
much tlie same manner as It waa years
ago, it is believed. Two fraternities
always participate, the Antelope and
the Snake, the former as assistants in
certain rites. For nine days before
the dance tlie men of the latter or
ganization go out on the plains with
notched sticks, buckskin hags and wal
lets of sacred meal to hunt for their
snake brothers.
Late in tlie afternoon of tlie day
m-fore tlie dunce, the Antelope priests
appear in full regalia of painted
bodies, dance sashes and kilts of bril
liant colors, and with symbolic equip
ment such as liovwis of sacred meal,
prayer plumes, sacrificial plants, an^
feathered wands. For half an hour
they chant and enact a prayer for
rain and for their brothers, the
Snake priests.
The next morning before dawn run
ners have gone fur out on tlie plain
that they may race to tlie mesa top,
hoping to reach it as the sun rises.
They go loping along various paths,
all of which converge In tlie trail to
the top.
Tlie court in which the dance occurs
looks as usual except for the kisi
built at one end. The kisi is the
shrine of cottonwood boughs covered
with canvas wherein the simkes ar<
put for tlie ceremony. A shallow hoi
is dug in front of it. over which »
board Is laid. This is Slii-pa-pu. tils
entrance to tlie underworld or th*
abiding place of tlie gods.
At Ti p. rn. or a little later the Ante
lope priests enter .the court with th*
same paraphernalia they employed
tlie day before. After circling ever
Slii-pa-pu a few times they take their
places on either side of the kisi and
sing lustily, rhythmically, and with s
wild, vigorous melody.
Then the snake priests dash in—
literally dash In—their rattles Jin
gling niaidlj, their feet padding tlie
hard-packed earth faster than ear can
conveniently count.
The Dance Grows Furiou*.
They take their places in front of
-lie Antelope prlestr and with them
chant and wave their wanda for many
minutes. The music seems to grow
wilder. Suddenly it breaks. The
snake priests separate. One of them
kneels In front of the kisi, reaches In
and pulls out a snuke. He grips Its
neck with his lips so that its head
projects a little beyond his left Jaw,
and if it is a large snake, six or seven
feet long, lie grasps its body with his
hands. Meantime another priest, with
feather wand, lias taken his place at
the dancer's right, places ills left hand
on tlie dancer's left shoulder, and
with thp wand strokes tlie body of the
snake. Together, with high rhythmic
step, they start around the court. A
third priest, also with a feather wand,
falls in behind. Thus the whole fra
ternity forms into groups of three
faster than words can describe, mak
ing the circle of the dance.
Finally, almost unnoticed, women
come from an inner room with
plaques of sacred meal and draw a
huge white circle In one comer of
the court. Then the lines break. The
snakes are thrown In a heap Inside
the circle, the women hastily and tim
idly sprinkle them with meal, and a*
hastily depart. Certain of the younger
Snake priests dart in and, seizing as
many reptiles as they can hold, dash
in the four directions. Far out on the
plain they release their loads—and
their serpent brot tiers seek their hole»
and bear the recently enacted rain
prayer to tlie gods below.
The snakes' fangs are not pulled -
Sometimes tlie men are bitten, but It
!g claimed they do not even get sic!
Line* to Be Remembered.
O thou who hast still a fathe* and
mother, thank God for It In the day
when th.v soul Is ful^ of tears, and
needs a bosom wherein to shed them.
—Jean Paul.
Footprint*.
“Some men,” said '"nele When,
"leaves footprints In be nd» of time,
and others merely scatter delr tracks
around neighborin’ chicken coop*.”
THREE WHIRLWINDS AND MADELINE
A quartette of wonderful colored dancers with “Sliding” Billy Watson and
his Hilarious Jubilee at the popular Gayety twice daily all next week. In
Kansas City last week they actually stopped the show at every performance.
l F.Mittlemanj;
\ & Son
I 2624 North 30th St. f
£ Phone Webster 0171
J GROCERIES and MEATS |
¥ Vegetables in Season
| FREE DELIVERY |
\ If Our Goods Don’t Please *
4 You, Your Money Back x
| Star Grocery and 1
| Meat Market f
I No. 2 |
!j! N. W. Corner 30th mid Pratt Sts. X
I — i
| THE STOKE OE COURTESY ''
| AND SERVICE X
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Allan Janes, Has. Phans W. IN
JONES ACC.
FUNERAL PARLOR
2314 North 24th St. Wafc. MM
Lady Attendant
. ..i
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Shoe Repairing
First Class Work
Guaranteed
1408 No. 24th St.
* JOE NARZISI
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For Sickness & Accident
Insurance
Call AUGUSTUS HICKS
Tel. Webster 0120 2710 Miami St
If ith Rankers Accident Insurance Co.
l EMERSON’S LAUNDRY f
•{• 'rhe Laundry That .Suits All •{•
X 1301 No. 24th St. Web. 0820 f
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Bonita Furnished to Keliahle Persons
NOTARY PUBLIC IN OFFICE
PHONES:
Ke«., Web. fiti 13; Office, At. 5104
Res. 2863 Iiinney St.
NOAH W. WARE
ATTORNEY and COUNSELOR
AT LAW
HOURS: !) A. M. to 12:00 Noon; 1:30
P. M. to 5:30 P. M.
Ill So. 14th Street Omaha, Nebr.
We Hare a Complete Ltne *4
FLOWER, GRASS
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Baiba. Hardy Perennial*. Poultry
Supplies
Preab rut flower* always oa baud
Stewart’s Seed Store
ili N. 16th St. Opp. Post Offtsa
Pborne Doattlas »7T )
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Why Not Let Us Do Your
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Best material, ruanonablt* pricen.
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Phone Web. 5084—1415 No. 24th
«-...
WEALTHY VICTIM OF Tl.'LSA
RIOT MOVES TO MEXICO
Los Angeles, Calif., Feb. 23—(Pacif.c
News Bureau)—Mr. O. N. Gurley, one
of the pioneer Negro merchants of
Tulsa, Okla., and whose three story
brick building was totally destroyed in
the riot, is in Los Angeles enroute to
the new Mexican townBite and coloni
zation colony a few miles across the
Mexican border from San Diego, Cal.
Immediately following the Tulsa
riot Mr. Gurley rebuilt his building
and sold it. With a number of other
prominent Oklahoma colored business
men, he visited the various coloniza
tion projects for Negroes in Mexico,,
going as far in the interior as Mexico
•City and San Louis Potosi,
Mr. Gurley favors the Lower Cali
fornia colonization project in prefer
ence to those fat in the Interior of the
Republic, as he claims it is possible to
live in perfect freedom and security,
amid ideal locations for farming, yet
within a few hours by automobile from
San Diego and I-os Angeles.
He further states that in the Santa
Clara Valley, 60 miles below San Diego
and 30 miles from the great Mexican
seaport city of Ensanada, the Negro
controls over 5,0o0 acres of wonderful
land where he is welcomel by the Mex
ican government and people and where
he can live in peace and without per
secution, enjoying a freedom of inde
pendence and security heretofore un
known.
LINCOLN NEWS AND COMMENT
Rev. T. J. Porter conducted serv
ices at the A. M. E. church last Sun
day, preached morning and night. The
Sunday school and A. C. E. societies
eld their services as usual with a fair
attendance. Word comes that Rev.
Mr. McKnight of Quindaro, Kans., has
I teen assigned to this church, but who
s delayed on account of illness.
Mrs. Belle G. Riley and assistants of
Omaha will appear in recital at the
A. M. E. church on Wednesday night,
February 28th.
No improvement is last report from
Jonn L. Wright at the State hospital.
Services at the Mt. Zion Baptist
church were quite interesting on last
Sunday. The church is seemingly
spiritually revived. The pastor, Rev
H. Wr. Botts, delivered two of his well
thought sermoi s to the enjoyment of
all. The Sunday school and B. Y.
P. U. had usual interesting lessons,
being well attended.—The Saturday
night -uppers continue with success
at the parsonage.
Among those reported sick, but not
eriously, the past week are Mrs. M.
Todel, Mrs. I. Spahn, Mrs. Nettie Mc
Donald. Mrs. L. Abner, Miss M. Bell
and others.
Father Evans Corneal is reported
growing weaker, and hi.- children are
watching over him with care.
The students of State university
held a two night camivai in Masonic
hall on last Friday and Saturday,
which wa- v ell attended and a success,
they say.
church.
Rev. C. W. Wilson of the Morning
Star Baptist church is conducting his
services and is trying to interest his
members ofr good.
Rev. J. H. McAlister of the New
man M. FI. church is holding his own
and conducting his services as usual
on Sundays.
Remit for your paper, please!
SJOI X CITY NEWS
The N. A. A. C. P. held a mass
meeting Sunday afternoon at Mt. Zion
Baptist church Rev. H. C. Boyd, pas
tor of the A. M. E. church, delivered
an address on the “Trend of the
Races”, extracts of which were taken
from "Trend of the Races", a book
which is being extensively read by
most of the Sioux City churches.
Every member of the Race should
read this book.
The Girl Reserve which meets on
Tuesday of this week at the Y. M. C.
A. (white) have been asked to sing
for the members of the Y. W. C. A.
at their official opening
The Dames Club meets on Tues
day afternoon at the home of Mrs.
Dr. R. A. Dobson, 400 West Seventh
street, entertained by Mrs. R. M. Wil
liams. Subject for discussion, “Trend
of the Races”.
Word has been received that Mr.
Walter White, assistant secretary of
the Na. A. A. C. P., who is making
a tour of Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa and
two points in Missouri, will hold a
mass meeting in this city on April
17t,h. Do not fail to heear Mr. White
who is a very forceable speaker, and
has also made personal investigations
of twenty-eight lynching and Race
riots, and many other expertfcnces that j
will enable him to bring us a splendid
message.
Mr. Murdock announced the open
ing of the Oriental Cafe at 707 West
Seventh street. When you are hun
gry and want an up-todate meal kind
ly drop in Mr. Murdock’s cafe.
Mr. and Mrs. Wm. Joseph, 1217 Mc
Donald avenue, wish to extend their
heartfelt thanks to the many friends
l'or their kindness during the latter’s
illness and to especially thank Rev.
Mr. Tutt, Rev. Mr. Williams! arid
Rev. Mr. Boyd for their many visits.
We also appreciate the donation ten
dered by our pastor and friends.
Personals.
Mr. Henry Kendricks Bedawin of
the local Sheiks club has recently re
turned from his home in Marianna,
Ark., where he left his grandmother
and parents in good health.
Mr. George Tolson has been sick
for the last few days at his home, but
is able to be out again.
Mr. George Hicks who has been
ailing for some time was taken to
the Samaritan hospital, Seventeenth
and Pierce streets.
Mr. Albert Kavens is reported to
have left the city Saturday evening
enroute to the home of his parents.
Mr. English who has been employed
at the Wool worth 5 and 10c store
since arriving in this city a few weeks
ago, left for Chicago where he expects
to accept a position with the govern
ment as a bookkeeper.
Rev. H. C. Boyd, pastor of the A. ]
M. E. church, w'ho has been in^fed
by Governor Kendall of Iowa to attend
the Negro National Educational Con- j
gross which convenes in the city of.
Washington, D, C., March 5-9, has
gladly accepted the opportunity.
Rev. H. C. Boyd has been empower
ed through the Sioux City branch of
the N. A. A. C. P. to visit the Iowa
senators asking them for their sup
port in getting the Anti-Lynching Bill
before teh next session of congress.
Church News.
Presiding Elder Mr. Stovall of the j
Northwest Conference of the A. M. E.
church will be in the city Saturday to
attend the quarterly conference.
ORNAMENT FOR BOBBED HAIR
Feather Band Now Used to Decorate
Milady’s Locke—May Be vMorn
High O'- Low.
Feathers, which claim the utmost
attention In fans, are trying for equal
prominence as hair ornaments. They
appear in the loveliest hair bands,
some of which tower to great heights,
while others are worn low on the head,
the plumage either shooting upward
from the middle of the brow or falling
over the ears.
Blue glyrerined ostrich placed at
the sides of a blue velvet hand studded
with rhinestones droops gracefully over
either ear. Another model consists
of a narrow rhinestone hand with
green feathered wings perched Jauntily
at the sides directly over the ears.
One-sided effects are evidenced in
hands In which a large silk (lower or
a twisted velvet leaf Is placed at one
side only.
The woman who has bobbed her hair
may wear It in the new, tightly drawn
fashion hv employing one of the combs
or bandeaux which are made expressly
for her. A particularly appealing or
nament is made of silver wire and
rhinestones, and resembles a horse
shoe. The hair Is combed straight
back and then drawn through the or
nament, which Is placed at the hack
of the head in an upright position with
the rounded part at the top.
Still another arrangement for bohhed
hair Is to catch It up under a hand,
the front of which consists of silver
wire with connecting liars and the
hack of flowers.
Books Centuries Old.
S'-nie of England's oldest art
treasures, from Durham cathedral'*
monastic library, were recently brought
to London and placed on view at the
Victoria and Albert museum. Most
of tbe work In northern English of
the earlier Anglo-Irish schools ol
Llndlsfarne and Durham, and the ex
amples of callgraphy and Illumination
range In dates from the Seventh to the
Fourteenth century. Among the manu
scripts are two traditionally attributed
In the Middle ages to the venerable
Bede, hut this ascription is not now
accepted. There are, also, several of
the books given to the monastery by
the Bishops William de St. Carliepb
(1080-105X1) and Hugh de Pulset (Pud
gey) 1154-1190. Three of the four
volumes of Pudsey's Bible, as one ol
the most splendid In existence, ar«!
included In the exhibit—London!
Times.
Built by Boy Scouts.
The lodge bouse of the W. W. W.
at Treasure Island is said to he the
finest building ever erected by the hoy
scouts anywhere. The work was done
entirely h.v scouts and It is a proof
of the value and permanency of the
order. The building Is about 30 by
45 feet, two stories high with two
large porches. It will he filled with
mementoes.
'T’HOROUGHLY worthy used furni
ture of every description is offered
for sale at very reasonable prices in
our warehouse, between the hours of
1 p. m. and 5 p. m. week days. 8th
and Capitol Ave.—Orchard & Wil-1
helm Co.
—
For new* when It Is news, you mus>
reart the Moaltor.
_
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CAPITOL POOL HALL I
2018 North 24th Street—Phone Webster 1773 1
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| Also Fresh Fruits and Vegetables
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< 1904 North 24th Street Phone Webster 03SK ■!
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