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About The monitor. (Omaha, Neb.) 1915-1928 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 23, 1923)
TO DEPART FROM 6IRLISH FROCKS Coming Winter May See Passing of Flapper Type of Dress, Writer Asserts. ORATED ON CLASSIC LINES Important Part la Played by Decora tion*—Circular Effect* Obtained by Godot* and Panel*—Wid* Skirts for Evening. Fashlons are becoming more sophis ticated. The flapper has met a for midable rival In the woman. So this winter, writes a fashion correspondent In the New York Tribune, may see the passing of the flapper type of dress. All of the new styles show a strong tendency to depart from the Juvenile types so prevalent during the past few year*. They embody dignity and im portance, two characteristics which of late years have been almost entirely lacking In dress. The long skirt and the many varia tlons of drapery now In use have helped to bring about these changes. The Important part played by drapery rather handicaps the amateur dress maker. No more can she hope to be dressed In the height of fashion In the simple chemise frock which she made so easily. No she must include in her wardrobe gowns draped on clas sic lines. The ways In which drapery has vacillated In the position that it shall take In regard to the dress Is some what astonishing. It began by adorn ing the side of the frock. After as Burning numerous other positions It . now elects to make the front the most j Important part of the gown. Circular Effect* Obtained. Many think It comparatively easy j to popularize a new style and that | women are waiting to welcome any 1 thing new and striking in dress. Thii- ! Is not so. A real change In fashions j is brought about very, very slowly. It ! is months, sometimes a year, after a J style Is shown before it Is accepted even in a limited way. Take, for In stance, the circular skirt. Two years ago designers put their best effects ( Into models with circular skirts In an endeavor to make this fashion popu lar, and during the intervening time the best creators of styles have from time to time tried to force them. But i It is only this autumn that we see this type of skirt making real progress. It Is not unusual to see skirts that are plain and tight across the back with circular panels in the front and at the sides, thus making a compro mise between the straight line and the circular. While daytime dresses show fan shaped godets and front draplngs. there Is a strong tendency toward really wide skirts for the evening. Skirts are very long. Lanvin, al ways the exponent of youth in dress, makes her models longer than those of any other dressmaker In Paris. So we may expect to see the extremely long-skirted frock taken up by young girls. This always Is favorable to the ■-* Showing the French Frock of Plaited I Crepe do Chine. success of a fashion, because all wom en like to appear youthful, and the style that youth elects to make Its own invariably becomes the prevailing mode. Deviate From Bateau Neckline. Iieslgners are trying to do away with the popular bateau neckline, and In their endeavor have Introduced severs! Interesting outlines for the necks of dresses, among the most un usual being the one-sided effect. There Is the deep V-shaped neck cut high ,tt' the back and extremely low In lront. This type requires a gllet oi modesty piece, as the French caH It A Hew French frock In whlcf’ th* Town Has Biggest Dance Hall. The town of Douglas, In the Isle of Man, boasts of having the largest and most comprehensive place of amuse ment In the world. One of Its chief features Is u dance hall capable of ac commodating a thousand couples at one time. TnougM for ths Day. Some people think they are con xervative when they are really Ig norant. 'V one-sided effect U exaggerated a 1 moot to the point where It becomes bizarre. Is Important, as It stresses the strong tendency toward one-sided effect! In both neckline and sleeve. On one side the dress Is cut so high that It nearly forms a collar and slopes so far to the opposite side that It falls over the shoulder. The right side allows one long, tight sleeve, while there Is no Sleeve for the left side. One-SIdo Trimming. Another model emphasizing thla tendency In dress Is of pure Greek Inspiration, the drapery falling In classic lines from the right shoulder. This is a Polret model In rose, blue and white silk, with a very unusual trimming consisting of crocheted bands wrapping about the shoulders. Hats as well as dresses have come nnder the Influence of one-sided trim ming. Some unusual trimmings ap pear. A lace scarf tied In a tailored how on a plain velvet hat Is quite out of the ordinary. Following In the I-—-1 Gown in Blue and White Crepe Ro main, Steel Ebmroidery. train of the long trailing scarfs used on hats during the past summer, the ends of this lace scarf fall to the wearer’s knees. This Is a simple type of hat, but extremely picturesque and graceful. Metal lace is far more popular in autumn millinery than It deserves to he. for nothing less practical as a hat trimming could well be Imagined. Many of the high-crowned hats of the • Second Empire period show one-sided trimmings In the form of birds or dus ters of small feathers. Great extravagance Is apparent In the lavish use of fur trimmings on this autumn's clothes. Chinchilla and monkey head the list. Monkey In black Is still a big lender, though gray and sable color will be much in demand. Narrow double fringes of monkey set together with a fancy braid are much used as a trimming. Therp Is every Indication that many short capes will he worn—that Is. cape collars nearly large enough to he considered wraps. It Is In these pieces that the furrier shows his artls try in making patterns In one fur and filling the Interstices with a se< ond fur. The New Coiffure. Hairdressing has always played an important part In the history of fash ion Today the coiffure and its appen dages are receiving even more atten tion than usual. Aside from the fact that a woman's appearance Is either made or marred by the manner la which she dresses her hair, there was hound to be a keen reaction from the far-reaching bobbed-hair vogue. In deed, It would hardly seem appropri ate to combine the more dignified types of dresses and their lengthened and draped lines with anything but real dignity in hairdressing. In Paris at the present time tbe fashion is to draw' the hair back tight ly to reveal the ears. For some time past even the woman who was the fortunate possessor of beautifully shaped ears was compelled to dress her hair so as to completely conceal them. In the winter of 1921 this mode of hairdressing was affectPd by many smart women, particularly In Paris, hut was not taken up very widely, nor with much enthusiasm. There Is still some doubt as to whether it will he generally accepted this year because It Is undoubtedly a trying fashion. Matching Headdress for Gown. Many women will not he willing to adopt this mode of hairdressing In the daytime, but will, aided by one of the new hair hands, find It quite attrac tive In the evening. These bands are made of tinsel-edged velvet leaves colored to match the gown, of rhine stones and velvet combined, of metal-' lie brocades, silver lame, flow'ers and feathers, as well as all sorts of pearl j crystal and colored beads. Occasionally the maker of the eve nlng gown designs a headdress to ac company It. With the wide choles i which obtains In the selection of hall ornaments and bandeaux and the op- j portunity of having a real artist create ! a suitable one, there Is no longer anj necessity for wearing anything lnap proprinte or unbecoming. Reserved for All Ages. All that mankind has done, thought, gained or been—It Is lying as in magic preservation In the pages of books.— Carlyle. Bookshelves for Children. Teach children the proper care of their books by having low bookshelves around tbe wall* of their room and In sisting upon their putting their books In place after the story hour. ■ ■ ’--f SNAKE DANCE IS ACE OLD RITE Weird Ceremony Is Performed Yearly by Hopi Indians. HANDLE REPTILES UNHARMED Tradition Says Ceremony Originated During Great Drought Which Waa Broken When the Children Went Out on the Plain and Gathered Snake* and Played and Danced With Them — Sometime* Dancer* Are Bitten, but They Do Not Evan Get Sick. Many years ago a great drought vis Ited the land of tlie Hopi Indians, in nortiiern Arizona, according to an In dian legend. The corn and tlie mel ons died and there vvus no game. By uud by the people themselves began to die of hunger and thirst. The o.d men planted many prayer sticks. The gods were invoked in every way the lieople could devise. But no rain came. There was great suffering. Then tlie children said: "We must help. How can we make the gods lis ten? By doing something that we hate.” So they went out on tlie platn below and gathered snakes, and played with them, putting them In their mouths, and singing and danc ing with them. Then came great rains and the people's lives were saved. And the old men said: "The children have , pleased the gods by playing with that which the gods love. We have learned our lesson.” So they hound themselves In tlie great snake fraternity, made songs and prayers, and once every year since then they have ap|>ealed to Hip gods for rain with their "snake brothers.” who are the messengers to the underworld, says Frederick J. Has kin in tlie Chicago Dally News. Dance Remains the Same. Tlie dance is carried out now in much tlie same manner as It waa years ago, it is believed. Two fraternities always participate, the Antelope and the Snake, the former as assistants in certain rites. For nine days before the dance tlie men of the latter or ganization go out on the plains with notched sticks, buckskin hags and wal lets of sacred meal to hunt for their snake brothers. Late in tlie afternoon of tlie day m-fore tlie dunce, the Antelope priests appear in full regalia of painted bodies, dance sashes and kilts of bril liant colors, and with symbolic equip ment such as liovwis of sacred meal, prayer plumes, sacrificial plants, an^ feathered wands. For half an hour they chant and enact a prayer for rain and for their brothers, the Snake priests. The next morning before dawn run ners have gone fur out on tlie plain that they may race to tlie mesa top, hoping to reach it as the sun rises. They go loping along various paths, all of which converge In tlie trail to the top. Tlie court in which the dance occurs looks as usual except for the kisi built at one end. The kisi is the shrine of cottonwood boughs covered with canvas wherein the simkes ar< put for tlie ceremony. A shallow hoi is dug in front of it. over which » board Is laid. This is Slii-pa-pu. tils entrance to tlie underworld or th* abiding place of tlie gods. At Ti p. rn. or a little later the Ante lope priests enter .the court with th* same paraphernalia they employed tlie day before. After circling ever Slii-pa-pu a few times they take their places on either side of the kisi and sing lustily, rhythmically, and with s wild, vigorous melody. Then the snake priests dash in— literally dash In—their rattles Jin gling niaidlj, their feet padding tlie hard-packed earth faster than ear can conveniently count. The Dance Grows Furiou*. They take their places in front of -lie Antelope prlestr and with them chant and wave their wanda for many minutes. The music seems to grow wilder. Suddenly it breaks. The snake priests separate. One of them kneels In front of the kisi, reaches In and pulls out a snuke. He grips Its neck with his lips so that its head projects a little beyond his left Jaw, and if it is a large snake, six or seven feet long, lie grasps its body with his hands. Meantime another priest, with feather wand, lias taken his place at the dancer's right, places ills left hand on tlie dancer's left shoulder, and with thp wand strokes tlie body of the snake. Together, with high rhythmic step, they start around the court. A third priest, also with a feather wand, falls in behind. Thus the whole fra ternity forms into groups of three faster than words can describe, mak ing the circle of the dance. Finally, almost unnoticed, women come from an inner room with plaques of sacred meal and draw a huge white circle In one comer of the court. Then the lines break. The snakes are thrown In a heap Inside the circle, the women hastily and tim idly sprinkle them with meal, and a* hastily depart. Certain of the younger Snake priests dart in and, seizing as many reptiles as they can hold, dash in the four directions. Far out on the plain they release their loads—and their serpent brot tiers seek their hole» and bear the recently enacted rain prayer to tlie gods below. The snakes' fangs are not pulled - Sometimes tlie men are bitten, but It !g claimed they do not even get sic! Line* to Be Remembered. O thou who hast still a fathe* and mother, thank God for It In the day when th.v soul Is ful^ of tears, and needs a bosom wherein to shed them. —Jean Paul. Footprint*. “Some men,” said '"nele When, "leaves footprints In be nd» of time, and others merely scatter delr tracks around neighborin’ chicken coop*.” THREE WHIRLWINDS AND MADELINE A quartette of wonderful colored dancers with “Sliding” Billy Watson and his Hilarious Jubilee at the popular Gayety twice daily all next week. In Kansas City last week they actually stopped the show at every performance. l F.Mittlemanj; \ & Son I 2624 North 30th St. f £ Phone Webster 0171 J GROCERIES and MEATS | ¥ Vegetables in Season | FREE DELIVERY | \ If Our Goods Don’t Please * 4 You, Your Money Back x | Star Grocery and 1 | Meat Market f I No. 2 | !j! N. W. Corner 30th mid Pratt Sts. X I — i | THE STOKE OE COURTESY '' | AND SERVICE X 44444444444444444444444444 ►.» . . ..... Allan Janes, Has. Phans W. IN JONES ACC. FUNERAL PARLOR 2314 North 24th St. Wafc. MM Lady Attendant . ..i I,... Shoe Repairing First Class Work Guaranteed 1408 No. 24th St. * JOE NARZISI a^-^..».^„n-a..»..a..>.., «»..- TTttee«»| For Sickness & Accident Insurance Call AUGUSTUS HICKS Tel. Webster 0120 2710 Miami St If ith Rankers Accident Insurance Co. l EMERSON’S LAUNDRY f •{• 'rhe Laundry That .Suits All •{• X 1301 No. 24th St. Web. 0820 f •tX* v*X* Bonita Furnished to Keliahle Persons NOTARY PUBLIC IN OFFICE PHONES: Ke«., Web. fiti 13; Office, At. 5104 Res. 2863 Iiinney St. NOAH W. WARE ATTORNEY and COUNSELOR AT LAW HOURS: !) A. M. to 12:00 Noon; 1:30 P. M. to 5:30 P. M. Ill So. 14th Street Omaha, Nebr. We Hare a Complete Ltne *4 FLOWER, GRASS AND GARDEN ] Baiba. Hardy Perennial*. Poultry Supplies Preab rut flower* always oa baud Stewart’s Seed Store ili N. 16th St. Opp. Post Offtsa Pborne Doattlas »7T ) i .. f———' • -.... p..^ Why Not Let Us Do Your SHOE REPAIR WORK Best material, ruanonablt* pricen. ALL WORK GUARANTEED BENJAMIN & THOMAS Phone Web. 5084—1415 No. 24th «-... WEALTHY VICTIM OF Tl.'LSA RIOT MOVES TO MEXICO Los Angeles, Calif., Feb. 23—(Pacif.c News Bureau)—Mr. O. N. Gurley, one of the pioneer Negro merchants of Tulsa, Okla., and whose three story brick building was totally destroyed in the riot, is in Los Angeles enroute to the new Mexican townBite and coloni zation colony a few miles across the Mexican border from San Diego, Cal. Immediately following the Tulsa riot Mr. Gurley rebuilt his building and sold it. With a number of other prominent Oklahoma colored business men, he visited the various coloniza tion projects for Negroes in Mexico,, going as far in the interior as Mexico •City and San Louis Potosi, Mr. Gurley favors the Lower Cali fornia colonization project in prefer ence to those fat in the Interior of the Republic, as he claims it is possible to live in perfect freedom and security, amid ideal locations for farming, yet within a few hours by automobile from San Diego and I-os Angeles. He further states that in the Santa Clara Valley, 60 miles below San Diego and 30 miles from the great Mexican seaport city of Ensanada, the Negro controls over 5,0o0 acres of wonderful land where he is welcomel by the Mex ican government and people and where he can live in peace and without per secution, enjoying a freedom of inde pendence and security heretofore un known. LINCOLN NEWS AND COMMENT Rev. T. J. Porter conducted serv ices at the A. M. E. church last Sun day, preached morning and night. The Sunday school and A. C. E. societies eld their services as usual with a fair attendance. Word comes that Rev. Mr. McKnight of Quindaro, Kans., has I teen assigned to this church, but who s delayed on account of illness. Mrs. Belle G. Riley and assistants of Omaha will appear in recital at the A. M. E. church on Wednesday night, February 28th. No improvement is last report from Jonn L. Wright at the State hospital. Services at the Mt. Zion Baptist church were quite interesting on last Sunday. The church is seemingly spiritually revived. The pastor, Rev H. Wr. Botts, delivered two of his well thought sermoi s to the enjoyment of all. The Sunday school and B. Y. P. U. had usual interesting lessons, being well attended.—The Saturday night -uppers continue with success at the parsonage. Among those reported sick, but not eriously, the past week are Mrs. M. Todel, Mrs. I. Spahn, Mrs. Nettie Mc Donald. Mrs. L. Abner, Miss M. Bell and others. Father Evans Corneal is reported growing weaker, and hi.- children are watching over him with care. The students of State university held a two night camivai in Masonic hall on last Friday and Saturday, which wa- v ell attended and a success, they say. church. Rev. C. W. Wilson of the Morning Star Baptist church is conducting his services and is trying to interest his members ofr good. Rev. J. H. McAlister of the New man M. FI. church is holding his own and conducting his services as usual on Sundays. Remit for your paper, please! SJOI X CITY NEWS The N. A. A. C. P. held a mass meeting Sunday afternoon at Mt. Zion Baptist church Rev. H. C. Boyd, pas tor of the A. M. E. church, delivered an address on the “Trend of the Races”, extracts of which were taken from "Trend of the Races", a book which is being extensively read by most of the Sioux City churches. Every member of the Race should read this book. The Girl Reserve which meets on Tuesday of this week at the Y. M. C. A. (white) have been asked to sing for the members of the Y. W. C. A. at their official opening The Dames Club meets on Tues day afternoon at the home of Mrs. Dr. R. A. Dobson, 400 West Seventh street, entertained by Mrs. R. M. Wil liams. Subject for discussion, “Trend of the Races”. Word has been received that Mr. Walter White, assistant secretary of the Na. A. A. C. P., who is making a tour of Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa and two points in Missouri, will hold a mass meeting in this city on April 17t,h. Do not fail to heear Mr. White who is a very forceable speaker, and has also made personal investigations of twenty-eight lynching and Race riots, and many other expertfcnces that j will enable him to bring us a splendid message. Mr. Murdock announced the open ing of the Oriental Cafe at 707 West Seventh street. When you are hun gry and want an up-todate meal kind ly drop in Mr. Murdock’s cafe. Mr. and Mrs. Wm. Joseph, 1217 Mc Donald avenue, wish to extend their heartfelt thanks to the many friends l'or their kindness during the latter’s illness and to especially thank Rev. Mr. Tutt, Rev. Mr. Williams! arid Rev. Mr. Boyd for their many visits. We also appreciate the donation ten dered by our pastor and friends. Personals. Mr. Henry Kendricks Bedawin of the local Sheiks club has recently re turned from his home in Marianna, Ark., where he left his grandmother and parents in good health. Mr. George Tolson has been sick for the last few days at his home, but is able to be out again. Mr. George Hicks who has been ailing for some time was taken to the Samaritan hospital, Seventeenth and Pierce streets. Mr. Albert Kavens is reported to have left the city Saturday evening enroute to the home of his parents. Mr. English who has been employed at the Wool worth 5 and 10c store since arriving in this city a few weeks ago, left for Chicago where he expects to accept a position with the govern ment as a bookkeeper. Rev. H. C. Boyd, pastor of the A. ] M. E. church, w'ho has been in^fed by Governor Kendall of Iowa to attend the Negro National Educational Con- j gross which convenes in the city of. Washington, D, C., March 5-9, has gladly accepted the opportunity. Rev. H. C. Boyd has been empower ed through the Sioux City branch of the N. A. A. C. P. to visit the Iowa senators asking them for their sup port in getting the Anti-Lynching Bill before teh next session of congress. Church News. Presiding Elder Mr. Stovall of the j Northwest Conference of the A. M. E. church will be in the city Saturday to attend the quarterly conference. ORNAMENT FOR BOBBED HAIR Feather Band Now Used to Decorate Milady’s Locke—May Be vMorn High O'- Low. Feathers, which claim the utmost attention In fans, are trying for equal prominence as hair ornaments. They appear in the loveliest hair bands, some of which tower to great heights, while others are worn low on the head, the plumage either shooting upward from the middle of the brow or falling over the ears. Blue glyrerined ostrich placed at the sides of a blue velvet hand studded with rhinestones droops gracefully over either ear. Another model consists of a narrow rhinestone hand with green feathered wings perched Jauntily at the sides directly over the ears. One-sided effects are evidenced in hands In which a large silk (lower or a twisted velvet leaf Is placed at one side only. The woman who has bobbed her hair may wear It in the new, tightly drawn fashion hv employing one of the combs or bandeaux which are made expressly for her. A particularly appealing or nament is made of silver wire and rhinestones, and resembles a horse shoe. The hair Is combed straight back and then drawn through the or nament, which Is placed at the hack of the head in an upright position with the rounded part at the top. Still another arrangement for bohhed hair Is to catch It up under a hand, the front of which consists of silver wire with connecting liars and the hack of flowers. Books Centuries Old. S'-nie of England's oldest art treasures, from Durham cathedral'* monastic library, were recently brought to London and placed on view at the Victoria and Albert museum. Most of tbe work In northern English of the earlier Anglo-Irish schools ol Llndlsfarne and Durham, and the ex amples of callgraphy and Illumination range In dates from the Seventh to the Fourteenth century. Among the manu scripts are two traditionally attributed In the Middle ages to the venerable Bede, hut this ascription is not now accepted. There are, also, several of the books given to the monastery by the Bishops William de St. Carliepb (1080-105X1) and Hugh de Pulset (Pud gey) 1154-1190. Three of the four volumes of Pudsey's Bible, as one ol the most splendid In existence, ar«! included In the exhibit—London! Times. Built by Boy Scouts. The lodge bouse of the W. W. W. at Treasure Island is said to he the finest building ever erected by the hoy scouts anywhere. The work was done entirely h.v scouts and It is a proof of the value and permanency of the order. The building Is about 30 by 45 feet, two stories high with two large porches. It will he filled with mementoes. 'T’HOROUGHLY worthy used furni ture of every description is offered for sale at very reasonable prices in our warehouse, between the hours of 1 p. m. and 5 p. m. week days. 8th and Capitol Ave.—Orchard & Wil-1 helm Co. — For new* when It Is news, you mus> reart the Moaltor. _ GET YOUR LATE HITS at the RIALTO 8 ft I 3 “You Got Everythin!; ■■ a Sweet Mama Needs But Me” " ’Tain’t Nobody’s Busi | ness If I Do” ;; Sara Martin and T. Waller, Piano. 8 0 15 j “Last Go Round Blues” “Mama’s Got the Blues” Sara Martin and T. Waller, Piano. 4 7 5 7 “BirminiAftm Blues” “Muscle Shoal Blues” Ragtime Piano Solo bv T. Walker. 3787 i “He I'aed to I to Your Man But He’s My Man Now” "Dixie Blues” Edith Wilson and Johnny Dunn. 5 0 2 3 “Aggravatin’ I’apa’’ “Sweet Lovin’ Mama” Lad’s Ftlaek Aees Jazz Orchestra. Rialto Music Shop Mlfi Douglas 1512 No. 21th ■iJitLJi.ii-.J-iL. __| CAPITOL POOL HALL I 2018 North 24th Street—Phone Webster 1773 1 CIGARS, TOBACCO. CANDIES and SOFT DRINKS f CIIAS. W. SOUTH, Prop. 1 PATRONIZE THE STATE FIRNITNRE CO. I Comer 14th and Dodge Streets Tel. JACKSON 1317 j Headquarters D DllUCUflftlf Phonographs I f°r DRUIldVIllm and Record? 1 | GOOD GROCERIES ALWAYS I! I C. P. Wesin Grocery Co. i: | Also Fresh Fruits and Vegetables | 2001 CUMING STREET TELEPHONE JACKSON 1098 ; j A. J. Glenn 2426 Lake Street FULL LINE STAPLE AND FANCY GROCERIES FRESH AND CURED MEATS £WUWWWAWWWAWWWtfVWVWWtfWVW.WVWji > 30 YEARS—ESTABLISHED IN OMAHA—30 YEARS > \ LIBERTY DRUG CO. i ? B. ROBINSON, Manager 5 £ EXPERT SERVICE FREE DELIVERY £ < 1904 North 24th Street Phone Webster 03SK ■! 5 (At 24th and Parker Street.) J*b i
