naivcoting the Coffee Crop
(Prepared by the National Geographic Bo- |
clety, Waehinaton, D. C )
On the gentle sloping hillsides of the
northern portion of a single state of
the great Brazilian republic there ara
some 700,000,000 coffee trees. Here
on the famous rich, red soil (terra
rossa), under extraordinarily favorabla
climatic conditions, the state of Sao
Paulo is producing annually close to
three-quarters of the world’s total
coffee crop. Small wonder it Is that
this state ranks so high In the num
ber and In the character of Its popu
lation ; In the development of Its rail
roads; In its general commercial and
Industrial activity. Small wonder Is
It that the city of Sao Paulo Is so full
of life and energy; that Santos has be
come so famous a port, that the Santos
docks and the Sao Paulo railway at
tract so many visitors. Coffee Is the
mainspring of all this development.
Coffee Is the prevailing topic of con
versation. t'offee Is the key to the
financial situation. Coffee Is king.
As a famous waterfall, or an Im
mense steel plant, or a great forest, or
a wonderful view attracts the traveler,
■o this remarkable Brazilian coffee dis
trict has a fascination all Its own for
the “glolie-trotter," or for the more
leisurely traveler who seeks to know
something more definite about our
South American neighbors; or, more
particularly, for any one to whom
man’s achievements In changing the
face of nature by making the earth
produce what he needs and what he
finds profitable are a source of satis
faction and inspiration.
Journey of Great Interest.
The heart of the coffee country can
he reached in less than three weeks
from New York. The voyage to and
from Rio Janeiro is a delight which
cannot fail to satisfy even those who
are not naturally lovers of the sea.
What can be more Ideal for any one
who is tired out with the wear and
tear of a bus; life than thut voyage
of two weeks u om New York to Rio,
over the culm seas and under the
bright skies of the topics?
From Rio de Janeiro a Journey of
about eight hour* takes the traveler
across the coast range of mountains
(Serra do Mar) and along the valley
of the Tarahyba river to the city of
Sao I’auio, which lies in a position of
immense advantage to Its commercial
development. From the city of Sao
Paulo tlit* heart of the coffee country
is reached in s short day's journey
along one of tlie lines of railroad which
go In a northerly or northwesterly di
rection across the open campus or
through the scattering woodlands.
In about two hours after leaving the
city of Sao Paulo the traveler begins
to see the first considerable coffee
plantations, and from that time on
the Journey Is one of the greatest in
terest. Coffee la everywhere. Miles
and miles of coffee trees stretch away,
np and down the gentle slopes of the
rolling topography, often as far as the
eye can see—great broad waves of
green, with the narrow lines of the red
•oil showing in marked contrast with
the green of the leaves. It is a sight
which is not soon forgotten. Here and
there are smsil patches of forest which
have not yet been destroyed to make
way for the coffee. And then there
eotne great stretches of rugged grass
lands. partly used for grazing purposes,
or locally for farming, where the soil
Is not right for the coffee tree.
Charm of the Fazendas.
On the lower elopes of the hills or
on the lowlands, standing out In
marked contrast with the green coffee
trees, are the white buildings of the
fazendas—great, substantial stone and
ttucco manor houses, with wide
verandas and large windows, surround
ed by gardens tilled with palm, and
banana, and orange, and mango trees;
tbs extensive outbuildings, for the
•tables and for the machinery, for the
laborers and for the superintendent, be
ing placed at a respectful distance
from the manor house.
All these Brazilian fazendas have a
peculiar charm—an appearance of
solidarity, of comfort, of peace, and of
prosperity—as they lie there, sur
rounded by the wealth of their coffee
trees, with cattle grazing on the neigh
boring fields, and with ever-busy, pic
turesque Italian laborers caring for
the precious crop, whose market prices
are quoted dally In all the Important
papers throughout the civilized world.
The coffee trees on a Brazilian plan
tation begin to bear In from two to
four years after they have been re
moved from the nurseries, where they
grow In wicker baskets, under shade.
The fruit, when ripe, la red, and re
sembles a small cherry, or cranberry.
In general appeurance. The coffee
which we see in the grocery store is
the seed of this coffee berry.
Normally each berry contains two
seeds, fiat on one side and rounded on
the other, the flat sides being together.
The seeds are imbedded in a sticky,
whitish pulp, and are further them
selves surrounded by two envelope*.
Before the coffee bean can be put
upon the market the outer covering,
the pulp, and the two inner coverings
must be removed. It Is customary to
classify the methods of preparing cof
fee for market Into the wet and the
dry. They are alike, after a certain
stage, and there Is disagreement among
experts hs to the relntlve merits of the
two In producing the best coffee. In
the dry process the berries are dried
liefore the pulp Is removed, and then
outer covering, pulp, and Inner cover
ings are removed together. In the wet
process the pulp Is first removed in
water, and the drying and removal of
the inner envelopes come Inter. There
Is no absolutely hard and fast rule. In
variably followed on all fazendas
alike, In the preparation for market of
the coffee beans.
A considerable water supply and a
carefully planned system of small
canals and of basins Is needed In the
wet method, mid It is partly for tills
reason, as well as because of the
preference of some fazendelros for
the dry method, that the wet method
Is nor everywhere In use.
ndi vcai UASkB gcvcai mwmn«t
The harvest begins Id May ami lasts
Into August, or even September. Till*
is the dry season, so that the weather
conditions are very favorable, not only
for the harvest Itself, but for drying
and transporting the crop after It has
lieen gathered. In picking the coffee,
the boughs are pulled down with the
left hand and held at the outer end
while the right hand Is run along the
hough from the base to the tip, thus
stripping off the berries as well as
many leaves and twigs. For the up
per branches rude step-ladders are
used.
The usual method of harvetffing it
to let the berries, twigs, -etc., fall di
rectly on the ground, where they ur*
later raked together with wire rakes
with rounded teetii, and the first rough
sorting is made. The next stage Is »
winnowing by means of a wire sieve
the band being used to pick out th«
twigs and leaves and the wind blow
iug away a good deal of the dust as
the contents of the sieve are thrown
up into the air and caught again sev
eral times. In a less common method
the results of the harvesting are al
lowed to fall into cotton clothe spread
out underneath the trees. This makes
ihe gathering of the crop quicker. The
berries are then assembled in sacks.
From this point on the berries art
subjected to various mechanical treat
ments. Under the "wet method" they
are washed, churned with hoes, al
lowed to soften, and are then run
through a mechanical puiper. The
seeds, still enveloped by their hmer
skins, are strained from the “mush"
resulting from the pulping operations,
and are then placed in basins to fer
ment slightly so that any remaining
pulp will be loosened. They are then
spread out on large paved surfaces to
dry in the sun. When properly dried
the seeds are gathered up .and run
through ingenious machines which rub
off the skin. The particles of skin are
sifted and blown out and the coffee
beans—hulled, cleaned and sorted—
fall directly from the last machine into
the hags. When these contain 189
pounds each they are sewed up and
are ready for shipment to market.
Along the roads, deep in red dust,
six or eight yoke of oxen draw the
heavy wagon, loaded witb the precious
sacks, to the nearest railroad station,
in cases where the railroad does not
come directly into the fazenda, as It
often does.
Off to the south go the trains, first
to the city of 8a o Paulo, and then
down the steep eastern slopes of the
Serra do Mar to the world's famous
coffee port. In Santos, coffee abso
lutely dominates the lives of the peo
ple, Coffee is everywhere—on tha
streets. In the warehouses, on the
train. Every one ia busy with coffea.
FRILLS_ARE USED
"3Coration Featured on Waists
for Tailored Use.
Th« Jahot Effect or Ruffle* In
Straight Row* Afford an
lntere*ting Arrangement.
Well-dressed women In senreh of
emart blouses to wear with navy blue
suits would undoubtedly apply t lie
term of “real" to one group of offer
ings noted recently, for they are gen
uinely attractive. One of the most
original designs was a frilled over
blouse. Frills are almost exclusively
! offered on waists for tailored use. and
h most agreeable surprise is waiting
for those who have never seen them
In combination with a finished over
blouse pattern.
One manufacturer has Included this
frilled overblouse In several highly
specialized models. White. Resh and
bisque are the color mediums, and a
particularly rich effect Is found In
those of bisque tone because of the
shaded lace that Is dyed to match It
so perfectly.
In developing these frilled styles,
one Is offered In a typical jabot effect
edged with lace in scalloped pattern.
Another shows two straight rows of
ruffles on either side of a double set
ting of hand-made Irish lace. This
waist attracts Immediate attention
because the pattern of the lace In
cludes several large rosette stitches
that reach the proportion of large
buttons and which form ornaments
of rich appearance. The peplum parts
of these georgette blouses have a
finished touch In the employment of
horizontal tucks that are found on
many.
Medallions of antique filet lace In
Its novel design are used as trim
ming on several styles. These medal
lions are set In Irregular fashion to
give a pointed effect to the sleeves
and are used In foursomes to form a
novel collar. Tucked squares cover
the surface of one overblouse, and
hand-made lace medallions Hre cen
tered In these to good advantage.
To point out the fine detail In exe
cuting these blouses, one wnlst offers
a bosom front formed of embroid
ered net combined with Irish lace. It
Is the season for georgettes, and for
that reason they have been empha
sized. Crepe de chines of a Hne qual
ity are also presented In the same
modela for those who prefer this ma
terial.
THE CREPE GOWN UNADORNED
Frock Made of Canton Material in
Popular Caramel Shade, With
out Trimming.
Just how nttructlve a gown made
entirely of one fabric and practically
without trimming can he Is shown by
a frock made of canton crepe In the
popular caramel shade. The only
touch of contrasting color Is In the
thread used to hemstitch the tucks
and form the little openwork border
around the neck. Brown silk thread
Is used for this purpose.
Both back and front sections of the
frock have rather wide tucks running
practically their entire width. Four
panels, two at the side front and two
at the side back, are laid In inch-wide
flat plaits; the sections between these
panels are plain. The sleeves are
about three-quarter length and slight
ly flared. These also are finished with
tuck*. A sash belt, to he tied at the
side or back, holds the frock In at the
waistline.
With this frock Is worn a small hat
of brown braid or tafTeta trimmed
with foliage or flowers carrying out
the color scheme of the frock.
The crepe weave silks are used to
make dresses that are smart and prac
tical and so light In weight that they
may be worn with comfort throughout
the summer, as the majority of them
are entirely unllned. The leaning to
straight lines and to simplicity In style
design is very friendly to the develop
ment of unllned frocks, as few are so
closely fitted to the figure as to re
quire lining unless It Is actually pre
ferred, and certainly the unllned
dresses are much easier to get into
than the ones that are lined—another
advantage in this age of hurry and
flurry.
WITH CREPE PLAITED SKIRT
An interesting importation that
might be dignified by the name “sweat
er blouse,” is brocaded and has a wide
sash with fringed ends. Of orchid, il
is especially attractive with a crepe
plaited skirt.
•
LIKE IT KNITTED
Craze Exists for Dresses, Suits,
Blouses and Sweaters.
8port Clothes Play Important Part|
Two-Piece Suits Are Given
Decided Preference.
Women ever have been accused of
fickleness, especially in the fancies
that they take for certain types of
dress. Very likely, observes a cor
respondent In the New York Tribune,
if we took the trouble to Investigate
what lies behind fashions, we would
find women less fickle in this respect
than mere man supposes—for it Is
man who always accuses us of this.
This leads up to the costume of
knitted materials, for which a veri
table craze has developed. They won’t
last long was the prediction of many
people when knitted dresses, suits,
blouses and sweaters appeared in
such profusion in the latter part of
the winter, tint the fashion has en
dured and will continue to endure
for a long, long time because of the
ability of a group of people to lift
this type of costume entirely out of
the humdrum category of the merely
practical and not at all beautiful out
door costume. They have done It by
combining heuutlful colors, by brocad
ing knitted wool materials In pat
terns of silk In both contrasting and
harmonizing shades and also through
the Introduction of wonderful em
broideries on knitted fabrics. Conse
quently, we find oun-«l\es In the midst
New French Sweater of Dull Gray
Wool, With Brocaded Pattern In
Red Silk.
of a season where pastime clothes
play a more Important part than ever
before In the history of fashions.
Two-piece stilt- of knitted fabrics
are preferred by the conservative
woman. Thee*- consist either of a
skirt and coat or a skirt and over
blouse, the Inltcr In Russian blouse
style. Attractive sweater coats In
slightly blousing form are developed
in silk and wool.
BLOUSES OF LINEN REAPPEAR
Different Weight* and Varied Manipu
lation* Characterize Some of
the Favored Garment*.
Linen has cut more of a figure In
blouses this season than It has for
several seasons, reappearing in dif
fbrent weights and different manipu
lation*. At one big city store this
fabric. In a medium soft weave, has
been chosen for the development of a
new series of ov-rblouses to which
Is given the name Bretalla.
The models are supposed to fill the
need for a waistcoat or gllet, but
built on ample, long-walsted lines, In
stead of cleft after the manner of a
man's belt. They come, therefore,
with sleeves and without, but with
the sleeved more in the majority.
A feature Is made of wide box
plaits, the whole blouse being con
structed In a tailored manner, hang
ing straight from the shoulder and
finished with a three or four-inch
hand. This treatment has come to be
known as a Renee idea, with the band
fastened to one side of the front In
such a manner that It lends Itself to
adjustment.
There Is some use of hand-drawn
work In addition to the more se
verely box plait fronted effects, and
It comes In several different collar
shapes, but nearly always swung high.
The color range includes orchid, blue,
rose and green The styles are also
made up In white, these Introducing
color In collar bindings and pipings.
Jewelry Fade.
Black and white Is again the high
peak of fashion for Jewelry. With the
summer sleeveless gown the wide Jet
bracelet Is to be used with Its spark
ling crest of brilliants. Jet daggers,
long and of romantically Bedouin as
pect, are used to -lash through a fold
of silk and give an air to the pxnct
front of a high little turban. Black
and white brooches and black and
white combs for the evening coiffure
vie In favor with black and white little
finger rings.
— —' -
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