THE COURIER
The Courier
Published Every Saturday
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FASHION
From the March Millinery Trade Review.
Spangles In Spring Millinery. Span
gles, or paillettes, were never in more
abundant evidence In millinery accessor
ies than they are In those of the new
mode. Of tiny size they appear in chains
of edging for ruchlngs and leaves; a
little larger they dot the petals of flow
ers; as relief of net, in bands and
crowns, andln some cases reaching the
size of a nickel five-cent piece, they
form distinguishing covering of hats,
while net, hung with closely set, narrow,
acutely pointed jet gelatine drops, or
spikes of fringe-like effect, divides favor
with folds and puffing of tulle and
chiffon for the facing of hats. They
have come out in jet, silver, steel and
the usual metallic effects with new and
very beautiful productions of their kind
In opalescent and iridescent effects.
Feather Garnitures for Spring and
Summer. Ostrich plumes, as seen in
models exhibited in collections brought
out In the recent openings, are holding
their own, and have indications of con
tinuance In use. Certain of the shapes
In the hats, to be effective, make a de
mand for them as trimming. They are
still placed under the brims of the large
hats at the left side, but they are laid
quite as frequently over the exterior as
within the brim and sweep around the
right side as often as around the left
side. A white wisp of heron aigrette,
stuck In the edge of the crown, at the
left side toward the front, and pointed
forward. Is a feature in the garnishing
of box turbans. Serviceable and ready-to-wear
hats of fiber and the straw
braids, shown In late displays of the
new millinery, were trimmed objective
ly with quills of the Argus pheasant:
and it is said that pigeons and other of
the birds of medium large size used In
millinery may come into requisition as
the season advances.
"Nancy Brown" in Millinery. An il
lustration of one method of using very
wide ribbon as trimming on a hat Is
seen in a model from Paris, called the
"Nancy Brown." It Is of white French
chip braid of the Leghorn platting, with
the crown very wide and low. The brim,
wide and plain, left unfaced. Is bent up
at the back. Soft satin ribbon, sixteen
Inches wide, with dotted center in ma
rine blue, and printed floriated border
ing, in design of rosebuds, forget-me-nots
and small green leaves, laid over
the crown, is gathered up at each side
under a mat of flowers about the size of
the saucer of an after-dinner coffee cup,
of a half-blown rosebud set In a mass
of velvet forget-me-nots and small
green leaves. White tulle draped on the
bandeau underneath is encircled by
loosely laid liberty satin ribbon In pale
rose-pink, a rosette bow formed of the
ribbon at each side of the front.
Black Flowers Popular in French Mil
linery. Although the season is hardly
sufficiently advanced In Paris for spring
millinery to be worn, there is nothing
else to be seen in the showrooms. For
these models, speaking generally, quite
light and particularly pastel tints are
given the preference, not infrequently,
however, mixed with black. Strangely
enough this admixture of black often
appears in the flowers. There Is a great
fancy for black cowslips, primroses,
laburnum and other flowers, mounted
with similar blossoms of a natural tiht.
Thus a pretty hat in palest blue satin
straw, draped loosely about with white
tulle, has a wreath of forget-me-nots
around the crown. Most of the flowerets
are blue, but here and there is a black
one. In another example the black Is
extended to the facing of the brim, this
being in black chip, whereas the out
side of the hat is in palest pastel pink
chip, and there Is moreover a narrow
pleating of black velvet sewn around
PHYSICIAN TO THE POPE
I
Great responsibilities rest upon the shoulders of Dr. Joseph Lapponl,
for he is the Pope's private physician and responsible for the physical
well-being of the head of the Catholic world. HLi name Is signed to all
the official bulletins concerning Leo's health.
the edge of the rolled brim so as to He
on the outer and pink side. The trim
ming consists of two bunches of prim
roses attached to opposite sides of the
crown. The flowers in one of these
bunches are black on the inner sides of
the petals and white on the outer side
with white stalks, whereas those on the
opposite side are all pink. Then again
bunches of yellow and- of black labur
num with a few green leaves are fast
ened to the center and also to the baclc
of a plateau hat made of palest silver
gray crinoline braids mounted In pleated
ruffles.
The Colors In Spring Millinery. Bright
colors are, however, not by any means
left out In the cold. Some milliners con
tinue to favor combinations of deep,
bright blue and green in spite of Its hav
ing been rather overdone last year. The
novelties In this line are mostly large
INTERESTING PICTURE OK POPE LEO
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This valuable photograph, which is absolutely authentic, shows the aged pope Leo at his devotions In the Statin Chapel. It Is probably the most
Interesting picture of his Holiness ever taken.