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The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
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) ' l'; ; ' '! Tommy Atklno.
Inspired by the Impresrir. Ht f r """" M 1 i X. t C-... V 7ZfV T
I . ftmoui "Lutfle" of London. ; i f.X K W L
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ADY DUFF-CORDON. A
famous "LucOe" of London,
and foremost creator of fasK-
ioni in the world, write -each week
the fashion article for this newspaper,
presenting all that is newest and best
jn styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Cordon's Paris estab
lishment .brings her into dose touch
with that centre of fashion.
. By Lady Duff -Gordon
THE tntlttary note, continues to
be sounded In the Autumn
fashions. Particularly In the
hats and fur mufflers is this a
noticeable fact. The hats for the
earlier part of the season are, for
the most part, small, though ocba
' slonally one sees a large one. Even
thia occasional Yieltor from chapeau
land Is not extremely large. The
small hat may be said to be king, and
the moderate sized one queen, of
htfts for the beginning of the season
or 191648.
Does not my model, shown in the
upper left-hand corner of this page,
suggest to you a plumed warrior of
the Italian army one of the doughty
soldiers of courageous soul and
bearing Jauntily the heavy name
Bersaglleri? There is the same
saucy tilt of the hat, the same
wealth of coq feathers. This model
is a modified Bailor, the brim slight
1 curved on the right, It Is made in
grape-colored velvet and the coq
feathers ehade from purple' to
brilliant 'green. .
" Curiously the neighbor of the
Bersaglleri, that neighbor on the
right, has resemblance to the head
covering of the. aviators of France..
Likewise to the ateel skull caps worn
by the French soldiers to protect
them from shells. This helmet
shaped hat I have made in green
velvet Us tide is decorated by a
bird of variegated plumage.
Below we see a modification of the
Modification
of the Fatigue
or Slouch .
Hat Worn
by Soldier
While Off
Duty.
Turkish turban, a becoming modifi
cation, you will observe, and that
Is entirely In harmony with the
Turkish effect of the robe of Its
wearer.
A fanciful variation of the fatigue
or slouch bat worn by soldiers of
both the Eastern and Western Con
tinent when off duty is that shown
in the lower left illustration. The
brim is bent and the edge of the hat
adorned by a fringe of feathers, yet
the resemblance persists. This hat
is more especially becoming to the
woman of regular features and a
mass of natural hair, which she can
easily adapt to Its outlines.
The familiar outline or the British
Tommy Atkins cap worn character
istically on the side appears In the
little velvet hat with the twin tufts
of feathers In front. This Is a smart
utility hat and can be made In black,
green or one of the darker plum and
grape shades that are making a
strong bid for popularity this season.
Whatever else they may be, the
hats of this season are not common
place. They are Striking by reason
of their small sise, or they are con
spicuous because of the else or char
acter of. the trimming. In color they
follow the hints given by nature.
This Is the season when the grapes
are purple on the vines, and purple
In one of the grape shades Is of
enormous vogue. The predominant
shade wherever smart women are
assembled Is the color of the spilt
grape, especially the shade In which
red predominates. Burgundy, iato
which -a bit of Indigo seems acci
dentally to have fallen, makes strong
appeal.
There Is, whatever Us detractors
choose to say, psychology In fashion.
Women dress according to the theme
that Is dominant In their minds. Did
the women of Europe obey the
promptings of their hearts they
would all be wearing black In token
of their sorrow at the sacriOoe of
Uvea In war. French women have,
to great extent, obeyed this prompt
ing. One sees little of color even
on the Bols or In the Rue de la Palx.
But In England the women have
elected to prove their patriotism In
a different way. They have decided
that the sight of black will depress
Cuttfiuu. mi.
Si: s-t'.i
. 1 . ' 1
A'
v
,
r
Adapted from the Steel Skull
Cap Worn by the Soldiers
of France as a Defence
Against Shells.
the national spirit tnfi they wear
colors to suggest bravery and
cheerfulness. They believe that
this suggestion will react upon the
men and women they meet to the
nation's good. It Is a practical
working out of national policy
while recruiting Is being urged.
But whatever the nation, women
are thinking and dreaming of war.
Wherefore war-like shapes of
hats, silhouettes of figures and
even war-like mufflers for the
throats.
In times of peace large, envelop
ing furs arc worn. In time of al
most general war the tippets are
worn close about the throats, as
soldiers tie their woolen scarfs to
keep out the cold and, what Is
more important to keep In the
warmth.
These collar like mufflers are of
chinchilla, of sealskin, of mink, of
bear, of dyed
fox. of sable, ac
cording to the
purse. Ermine
lends Itself well
to the collar or
tippet. The long
haired furs are
too balky to
gracefully serve
that purpose.
The Turkish
Turban
Draped to
Suit the
Personality
and Gown
f the Wearer
Muffs will be largely the melon
shape, once before popular, and
will be smaller than they were
last season. Furriers are striving
after compactness and trlmness
of effect.
Iu gowns the weight will de
pend mora than for many years
before from the shoulders. The
skirts will be moderately full.
There' will be many so-called one
piece gowns. The lines will be, In
the main, straight The trim
ming, for example the upper half,
or blouse, will be In straight lines.
To make quite lucid my explana
tion, let me say that the gowns of
this autumn and Winter will not
seek to "follow the figure," but
will have the vertical line as their
model. i
Pointed drapery edged with
heavy bands of fur will be almost
universally present The effect
will be opulent, especially It there
are not too many attempts to
imitate the fashion In the cheaper
and bizarre pelts.
It will be a velvet season. Who
ever can afford a velvet gown will
have one. Many, I fear, who can
not afford It also will have one.
The beautiful fabric will be used
in street costumes as well as
those of more formal nature.
Corduroys will he made into coat
suits.
Yet soft cloths will maintain
their own. One of the handsome
models I have put forth Is a sim
ple one-piece gown of soft dsrk
green gabardine, with a long coat
reaching to within six inches of
the gown's hem. The coat Is also
straight the lines following the
vertical. A small fur collar and
cuffs Inject Into the costume a
note of elegance which softens Us
severe simplicity.
S U W CuuW. Oratl BriUla SUctt li4