The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
' . . -73.
cmilitarity(D
Lady Duff-Gordon Tells How the War Is
Influencing the Fashions with Soldier
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Tissue Coat and Skirt Modeled on the Costumes of the French
Guards. "Lucile" Model.
THE war has Influenced the present
styles, especially In coats and
skirts, not to mention hats. Per
sonally I had a French soldier coat, with
the aklrt buttoned back, and a trlcorne four
years ago, and almost every season since
have had something distinctly traceable
either to uniforms or liveries of some kind,
as I think them decorative, practical and
comfortable. Of course, I think the war
has 'brought these things more to our no
tice, and some women are, no doubt,
adopUng these styles as a compliment to
our brave men at the front,
i Look at my little Robespierre lady In
putty-colored face cloth. She Is distinctly
feminine In spite of the stick she carries,
but the whole dress for It Is not a coat,
but a street suit in one piece Is entirely
suitable for the morning walk and lunch
eon at the club. I continue, it is putty
faced cloth with fob collar and cufTs of
bottle-green watered silk. The collar is of
the approved "cloaker" fashion, the skirt
full, the sleeveslong and tight and the
little cape loose about the shoulders;, a
small black hat has a martial plume of
tightly curled ostrich. ,
The natural tussore coat and skirt is, of
course, more of to-day and resembles the
French guards in every way but the sklrj,
which, in this case, is sot buttoned back.
The principal notes are the belt, the cuffs
and the buttoned pockets. The little three
cornered hat Is and always will be as chic
is the day it was first Invented.
' Speaking of hats, here is another little
military . touch, the Glengarry In black
worn by the lady in the blue serge back
view. It is a genuine shape wllh an addi
tion of a ribbon of green fastening a tiny
sprig of oak and heather at the back
much in the same way that the Plantag
eneta stuck a bunch of gorse in. their hel
mets in the civil war.
The same lady has a serge and braided
coat and skirt whose principal feature is
the opening at the back of the coat Just
below the broad buttoned belt, the skirt
is full at the bottom, but fairly closely
fitting at the top; the collar high and but
toned at the front.
My last is a little ratine, rather like a
military aviator's coat, so buttoned and
close-fitting it is, yet giving all the free
dom of action. It has two large workman
like pockets in either side; close-fitting
collar and cuffs of sable are the only
trimming.
Entirely different in style and effect, but
lalso most attractive, is a gown whose
flesh-colored foundation is, on the skirt,
doubly veiled with gold net, one side of
A
the corsage, from shoulder to hip, consist
ing of a deft drapery of brilliant green and
gold brocade antf the other being of thi
same faint pink and shimmering gold as
the skirt, and being so molded to the figure
as to be a somewhat startling effect at a
little distance. A great, barbarically beau
tiful ornament of dull gold and brilliant
malachite green is fastened on the left
hip, fringes of the beads and bugles and
jewels hanging far down on the skirt, and
a almilar ornament in miniature provid
ing a .decorative apology for a sleeve on
the right shoulder, though at the other
side the bodice has no "visible means of
support," a narrow fold of flesh pink tulle
(possibly and cleverly concealing an elas
tic threading)" being only noticeable of
even discoverable, at close quarters.
You may' always, indeed, take it for
granted that each dress Is provided with a
flesh-colored foundation, whose chief aim
and object it is to make Its presence as un
obtrusive as possible! And, remembering
this, you can try to realize the effect of a
sleeveless corsage of silver gauze crossed
by wide scarves, of sapphire blue panne,
which are eventually caught together on
one hip by' a' cluster of damask roses. The
full skirt beneath 'is of delicate pink chif
fon and net ln! the' deeper blue of a tropical
sky at night, at first just broldered with a
light tracery of dull gold, which soon, how
ever, grows bright and bold and beautiful,
too, tinsel ribbon of gold and silver being
interwoven with the metallic threads. And
finally, shimmering out through the blue
with a,moon-like radiance, a fold of sller
tissue is deftly introduced between a dou
ble fold of the blue tulle at the skirt hera.
There are some eminently "copyaole"
ideas In the dress.
Another successful device is tno swath
ing round the flesh-colored corsage from
bust to hips of some turquoise-tinted net,
and the placing over this of a quaint little'
bolero of brilliants, the shining stones
forming a trellis work
through which the subtle
inner shadings show
charmingly. It is further
worth "noting that each
diamond is Bet in the cen
tre of another, a soft,
milky white stone, its own
brilliance being doubled
by reason of this raising
and contrast.
Then swathed deeply
about the waUt and over
the hips is some Ivory
white and silver tissue, bro
caded with gold and blue.
Coats and
ORins
and Very
Warlike
Plumes
and Bonnets
L
ADY DUFF-GOR
DON, the famous "Lu
cile" of London, and
foremost creator of fashions in
the world, writes each week
the fashion article for this news
paper, presenting all that
newest and best in styles for
well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's
Paris establishment brings
her into close touch with
that centre of. fashieo
orange and purple, all this glory or
coloring giving place to the elusive
mist-gray of the tulle skirt on which
a device of cobwebby lightness is
broldered in frosted silver. Be
neath the gray there is a fulness of
the blue net first and more fully
seen on the corsage, and under this
again, of course, the inevitable and (,
always attractive flesh pink.
Finally comes a creation of flame
colored chiffon, veiled as to the
skirt with white net, on which a
broidery of beads shades from
palest amber to deepest orange. The
corsage, on the other hand, is outwardly
composed of Saxe blue chiffon, the broidery
here chiefly consisting of diamonds and
pearls. Further color contrast is intro
duced by a trail of flowers whose folded
liken petals bring together pale rose pink
and deepest flame, faint blue and brilliant
green, one or two of the lovely little blos
soms having caught a diamond dewdrop
on their Innermost petals.
A Blue Serge and Braided Coat
nd Skirt,
with
Which Is
Worn a
Military
"Glengarry"
Hat.
41LuciIe",
Mode!.
Copyright. IMS. by th Star
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Compaav. - Great Britain Rights Rirva
The Lait Word in Military
Dres. A "Lucile" Model of
Putty Colored "Face-Cloth"
with High Collar, and Soldier
Belt and Buttons. A Mar
halV Plume of Tightly
Curled Ostrich Decorates the
Little "War Bonnet