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And the Odd "Bird Cage" Bars and
Trimmings Described By
Lady Duff-Gordon
V
ADY DUFF-GORDON. the famous "Lucile" of Len
don, and foremost creator of fashions in the world,
writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper,
presenting a I that is newest and best in style for well-dressed
women. .
'Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris . establishment brings her tnte
close touch with that centre of fashion.
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A "Bird Cage" Dress of Black Satin,
the "Cage" Portion of Chiffon, and
Bars of Black Satin "Lucile" STodoL
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by Lady Durf-Gordon
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A Summery
Winter
Underdresa,
"Lucile"
Model,
to Be Worn
Under
the
Heavy Fur.
" Coats.
3:
3
WONDER it Dame Fashion knew
where she would eTentu&lly arrlTe
when ahe started to launch the
minaret ektrta two aeaaona MoT
These extraordinary dresses, adapted in
Eastern styles, in ballet and fancy costumes,
have gradually wound their way into our
everyday dresses until they have now be
come nothing more nor less than the old
fashioned "bird cage" skirts of the last
, century. " '
Jn fact, some of the drasses I have in my
present collection have literally underneath
' to keep this ?stlck out" effect wthlng
more than the real old-fashioned whalebone
bird cage. Of course, at present these are
somewhat modified, but; 1 can really see in
, the near future a repetition of the old car
toons of ladles in enormous skirts climbing
on the buses or barricading the way on the
grand staircase of the Opera.
Another queer effect of these present bird
cage dresses is that the majority of the
skirts for the present are transparent, or
semi-transparent, with decorations on them
in the way of bands of material or wreaths
or garlands of flowers and ribbon, while
N through the transparent material you see
jhe tight silhouette of the figure on the In-
. side, which, for the present at least, remains
closely swathed with satin and close in at
the feet, except in a few Instances when
they, are for dancing, and then little panta
lets are used.
These pantalets are perfectly straight and
not gathered in at the ankles, as the Orien
tal ones used to be. Here is a photograph
of one of these bird cage dresses. The tight
I silhouette skirt is of black satin, closely
swathing the figure, the outside of the bird
cage being or tete de negro chiffon, while
the "bara" are composed of bands of "black
aatln, with little buttons down the front to
the feet. The bodice is of the same material
over a transparent black lace undergarment.
The sleeves are three-quarter, shapeless and
square, which seems to be the favorite shape
for aleeves Just now. I have made some that
are full length In the same tube shape, but
these,' although very decorative, are very
impractical for dinner or luncheon wear.
To return, to the "bird cages." 1 should
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A
"Lucile'
Fox Trot
Dress,
with
Modified
"Bird
Cage"
Effect.
tag upright it falls back Into place, while
giving perfect freedom when the feet are
apart.- The overdress Is envelope shape,
w with a long point in the front, and the two
sides, extending In trery long ends that are
crossed at the back, twisted around the
front and again to the back, where it Is tied
In a knot and finished with two silver tassels.
Silver lace makes 4 little cape-shape bodice,
and a' tiny Utile bunch of flowers to pastel
coloring completes this Utile gown.
For an underdresa for thee enormous
coats, sometimes Chinese, sometimes Rus
sian, that one aees being worn now for tea
gowns, I give yon a little lace Malip,M which
la made over flesh color of a very broad point
lace, bordered with a narrow filet lac. It
is In the form of a short, rather close three
quarter tunic, the same decoration being
need for the lower part of the dress, bat of
course closer. The little bodloe Is Just a
simple cross-over, and fastened at the back
like the kerchief of the eighteenth century.
'A
New
"Lucile"
. For Coat
of
Chinese Sable.
Cut
' Mandarin
Style.
"!ijr
have explained that although they are made
to atlck out ver much at the aldea and
slightly at the back, up to the present they
are kept straight down In front, and In some
cases are worn with the little pointed bodice
of. the period from which they are adapted.
I will give you some photographs later on of
' some even more exaggerated than the ac
companying photographs, but so unusual are
I they that I feel I ought to break them to you
gently.
Look at the same lady In her fur coat.
This coat ts made of Chinese sable, with a
broad band of skunk, and, with the exception
of the cuffs, is adapted from the Chinese
mandarin coat. Note the little squarea In odd
places "such as the little centre front under
the sleeves and the- centre back, where the
grain of the fur is reversed to suggest the
design where embroidery is usually to be
found on the original coats. This coat Is
extremely cosy and easily slipped on and
off. The little hat has one of my favorite
all-around veils, that are so becoming when
worn either over or pushed back from the
face.
I wonder how much longer this dancing
erase is going to keep us busy. I have spent
two complete seasons doing tango frocks.
Now it Is fox trot frocks, and for this I give
you a practical and dainty little short even
ing dress of green and gray short mesealtne.
The underskirt is open to allow for the long
steps and crossed over so that when stand-
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