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I The "Window Pane" Theatre Wrap,
The "See- Your Skin Sleeves
andf Other Diaphanous f
Effects Described By
Lady Duff -Gordon
ADY DUFF-GORDON, the
famous 'Lucile" of London, and
foremost creator of fashions in
the world, Write each week the fashion
article for this newspaper, presenting all
that is newest and best in styles for well
dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establish
ment brings her into close touch with that
centre o'Vashion.
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One of the Diaphanous Dance Gowns, Showing How the i ' ' ,v " vns
Skirts Are Gathered Up Over the Arm , y It T ;
By Lady Duff-Gordon ' ' , iiUn'',-
11 cnfttinn Th rntsht h had a large atolo and ? ft V , '-J:;
ERE are some of my new
creations. Tbey might be
called, I suppose, transparent
dresses.
' In fact, the theatre cloak has been
christened the "Window Pane" wrap.
The reason Is obvious. You can
actually see through it. It la of the
most delicate blue tulle, and la trim
med with swan's-down. Of course. It
is made to be worn under another
and heavier cloak. But It Can, at tha
same time, be unhooked at the throat
and be laid aside.
The other photographs rhow the '
revealing sleeves. These are Just as
diaphanous as the cloak. To my mind
the most wonderful effects In dress
can bo obtained by interposing a
screen of transparent fabric between
the dress or the avm and shoulders
as conventionally bared by the
modern fashions, it takes away the
actual "nakedness," and It has a deli
cate trannflgurlng ' aspect somewhat
like that which gives distance
in atmosphere to scenes in the
theatre. I am not, And never have
been, in favor of extreme decollete.
I do not think it cither modest,
healthful or beautiful, yet by the use
6f transparency all these objections
can be removed. And that is why
I am making these transparent
diaphanous wraps and bodices.
1 have just heard some of the
most amusing news from Parla re
garding furs.
When, three months or so ago, a
much-daring, and. Incidentally, much-
moneyed, society lady
bad a lame stole and
muff set of Persian cat
skins made for her by
a famous furrlre, quite
a smart aensatlon 'was
caused even by the ru
mors of the unusual order.
And so the achieved her
aim and ambition.
But now, what must be
her feelings and her dis
gust when she realizes
that quite a number ot
other women will soon bt
wearing mora complete
motor coats mads of these
I'ferslao catsklnsT
It is true that they will
have to . par somewhat
dearly .fdr the dOubt
ful privilege, and that they will also
lay themselves open to a very obvious
nnd scathing comment by their dear
est feminine friends, but even the
knowledge that the whisper. "ats l0.
the cat"! has gone the rounds on re
ceipt of tha news of their new acquisi
tion, will not be able to epoil their
pleasure or their triumph.
. For they are such pretty catst
Some of them are proclaimed to be
Dutch cats, but, by any name, their
fur is just as eoft and beautiful, fo
what does it jnattcr?
Tabby cats, and tortoise-shell cats,
and chinchilla gray cats have all been
sacrificed so that they may liva again
in these coats, and let us hope (for
the eake of the wearer's purse) for
the remaining eight of their prover
bial nine lives!
And the skins used are many, for,
of course, In accordance with the
very eensible and smart fashion of
this aeason, the coats are very full.
and belted in across the back, and,
in some cases, completely and loosely
encircled low down about the hips
by a broad banding of the fur. They
have long and adjustable collars,
capable of rising to great heights,
whenever required, and are con
veniently wide of armhole, and, as
is very flttiag, their lining Is some
what rather out of the ordnary to
wit, the corduroy velvet whose more
usual position is on the outBide of the
garment In each coat the tone of the
fur Is matched by the velvet and the
n-sulUng effect 1m certainly very deco
rative, as well an rather daring, and,
there being always some women who
spend their lives and their money
in searching for, and seourlng, "uoine
thlng different" and sensational, the
catskin motor coat is assured of a
sufficiency of wearers to make its in
troduction quite pleasantly profitable
to the enterprising firm which brought
It out.
A rival novelty, somewhat less
Sawdust to Make Out Farms Fertile
When tanbark is burned, the ash is
poorer in potash and phosphoric acid
than wood ash, but richer in lime.
Slabs and edgings now thrown
way may be sufficient to produce
60,000 tons of ashes annually, calcu
lated on figures given in Louis Mar
golin's "Waste In Milling." Figured
on the same basis, ashes from saw
dust Would total 600,000 tons a year.
Cord wood now burned as fuel would
be good for 600,000 tons, making a
total ot more than 1,000,000 tons of
ashes annually, little of which is now
saved.
It lias been suggested that this
country can produce Its own potash
to make good that cut off by the clos
ing of the German trade. We have
been getting about 250,000 tons a
year from there. If an attempt Is
made to convert ashes into potash,
we might figure that six pounds of
ashes will make one pound of potash.
A million tons of ashes would be
good for 150,000 tons ot potash, or
rather more. At recent market
THE war has cut off the supply
of potash, practically all of
which came from Germany.
Potabh is one of the essential com
mercial fertilizers and a quarter of a
million tons of it are used yearly by
the farmers of the United States.
The Hardwood Record, the trade
journal of the lumbering interests, Is
authority for the statement that
America has at hand the materials to
make good the deficiency.
The amount of eawdust going to
waste would give alone, when
burned, one-thtrd of the missing
260,000 tons ot German potash. The
war, if it does nothing else, will make
us less wasteful.
When wood is burned, says the
Record, the remaining ash jepresents
what the growing tree extracted from
the soil, while the smoke that goes
into the air represents what the tree
derived from the atmosphere. The
charcoal, it sufficiently burned, dis
appears. A small portion of a tree
comes from the soil and much from
the air. Some trees do not take one
pound from the soil to one thousand
pounds from the atmosphere, while
others may take one from the soil for
fifteen or twenty from the air.
When English colonists settled on
the Atlantic coast from New Eng
land to North Carolina, the abund
ance of wood suggested to them that
there might be profit in the sale of
ashes. In 1621, less than fifteen
years after the founding of James
town, the Vlrglntens were selling
ashes at frem 130 to $40 a ton for
export to England. The burning of
ashes was a favorite business under
taken by negroes who had run away
from slavery in, the South and had
settled in Canada. No capital was re
quired, as wood was free; and,
though tha income' was small, the
work was easy and served to attract
a good many people. As late as 1898
Canada exported annually 1,323 bar
rels of potash and pearlash. the
equivalent of more than 20,000 bar
rels of ashes. '
The potash in wood ashes is taken
up by the soil more readily than in
most other forms, because the grains
are generally extremely fine and the
minute particles are easily distrib
uted through the soil in convenient
form for assimilation by plants.
Another View of the Same
Diaphanous Dress. Note
the Transparent Effect
Which Gives the "Show
the-Skin" Sleeve Its
Name.
startling, but still eye-arresting, Is a
motor coat of "pinpoint" lamb, or
"slink" fur, which can either be had
in pure white, or mole, or natural
shadings.
It la the sort of fur that makes you
want to stroke it so fascinatingly
soft is its satiny, slightly curling
surface. So, granted an attractive
wearer, It should prove quit a proposal-Impelling
form ot attirel ,
Moreover, these coats are provided
with a big collar of sable squirrel,
the contrasting fur being also used
for the making of the waist belt
which is fastened across the back,
and then, too, for the wide band
which borders and accentuates all
the fulness of the folds about the
angles. So that, when a lining of
squirrel lock is further added, oi
may Imagine that the wearer ot such
a coat will certainly be able to keep
cosily warm and therefore looking
her best on the longest motor run,
In the face of the coldest wind.
Hamster, in Its turn, gives very
much the effect of leopard skin, at
a more generally possible price. So.
you see, if you want to make it Im
mediately and universally obvious
that you have invested In or been
presented with a new motor coat,
you will know Jutst what to choose.
Falling fur, there are several other
striking novelties in fabric wraps, a
closely clipped wool plush for one,
generally patterned with a rather
bold check, which will bring together
In more or less striking contrast,
say, brown and Ivory, moss green
and star sapphire, tllleul and royal
blue, burnt copper and pewter grav,
purple and black, and black and old
gold.
prices It would be worth $12,000,000.
It would be worth twice that at pres
ent quotations, but the usual price is
about 4 cents a pound.
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Coovrlfht 1915. by h tar
Window Pane" Wrap-the New "Lucile" Creation of Diaphanous Tulle Through Which the Under Dress Plainlr Shows
ConDsnv Great Britain Itlht Reitrr4 7