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By Lady Duff-Gordon
("Luclle")
HERB Is no doubt now that, for the com
tag season at least, all your new models
must be of American creation. Tour
beloved label "Imported" will no longer
be a recommendation for the gown or hat to which'
It Is attached.
And why not? Ill tell you a secret, f know
many goods not necessarily dresses that for
years hare been labelled "Imported" and yet they
never saw the sea! ' ,
But one word of warning. It does not follow
that because America will create the newest fash
Iocs, any American who launches a new idea can
tak npon herself to say that her creation la the
new and particu
lar note for the
coming season any
more than any
French woman
in Paris can 'do
the same thing un
less she has a rep
utation behind her
for unerring Judg
' ment In what is
good. .
Being young, you
must experiment
and await the sur
vival of the fittest
that you wear at
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your theatres,, your
horse shows and
your operas! At
such places, as in
Paris, the best
comes to the top,
and Is universally
taken up. Just
think cf the hope
less chaos of six
leading New York
dressmakers, each
strenuously insist
ing that he or she has the real and only style
which la to be for the coming season.
One hates to speak of an "111 wind" at such a
time as this, but through its blowing the close of
the war may quite possibly see Paris, London and
all the rest over here buying their models for
.Europe. Who knows?
And now for the photographs which give you
glimpses of some things that are newest and besl
to-day.
First, there Is what some are pleased to call a
"Fireworks" headdress. The hair, as you will no
tice, is drawn well back. A most unusual "Cain
erina whoel" of paradise bursts from the forehead,
where It Is held In place by a band of sapphires.
Unfortunately the photograph shows only a wee
bit of the magnificent brocade and lace dinner
gown with which this hat Is worn. But later on I
hall hope to picture It for you. because It Is a
dress every woman will admire and wish she
might own.
Brocade Is also the material used In the dainty
'.ea coat shown on the other side of this page. The
model Is Russian in design, and woven In shades
of gold tissue, violet and green. The transparent
front Is of blue chiffon bordered with sable and
A "Lucile"
Semi-Classical
Foil Dress,
with an
AluTnlTmm
Coat of Mail,
Greek
Bodice and
Black Velvet
Overdress.
la entirely of
One of the New "Fireworks" Headdresses, with ft "Catherine Wheel
of Paradise Bursting from the Forehead, Where It Is
Held In Place by ft Band of Sapphires.
tied with blue and Tlo V Always, however. It Is almost needless to say,
. let bands. The under- the lettlnc la of the nlatlnum. which has now an
completely ousted gold from its original position
and prominence.
Sometimes the pendants will be attached to a
slender, almost Invisible chain of platinum, but
they look even more strikingly uncommon when
they hang from a fine black silk cord, and are
further finished off with a soft silken tassel, their
white brUllano and beauty showing up wonderfully
well between these two telling touches of black.
Besides all this there Is something almost daring
as well as very distinctive in their unexpected
breaking away from what has become an accepted
and, it might have been thought, an unalterable
tradition, and the real elegante will assuredly be
appreciative of this chance to wear something
different, and to score a triumph by simplicity In
stead of by splendor".
For some other lucky woman, too, there waits a
pendant In the form of a tassel, the upper corves
formed of pearls, while the actual tassel part Is
formed of countless shimmering, swaying strands
of platinum chain, as fine as silk. Pretty, la
it not?
Imagine, too, a corsage ornament in the form of
a widely looped bow of crystal, so cleverly carved
that It takes all the folds and apparently the sup
pleness of silken ribbon. And while two of its
loops are edged with diamonds, the others are bor
dered with pearls, so that you get a wonderful play
of light and delicately different ahadlngs on Its
shimmering, ever-changing surface.
By the way, the watch bracelet Is now more than
ever a necessity of fashion, as well as convenience,
and though many are and will be still made
with an expanding bracelet of platinum, the real
chic of the coming, as well as the past season, Is
the tlnv square shaped watch of platinum and dia
monds, which Is set in the centre of a narrow band
of black moire, stitched and buckled like an ordfr
nary leather wrist strap favored by the men folks.
Then of two other novelties worth noting by
those who want all their possessions to be up-to
date, one Is a "motor companion," made to open
and shut Just like the famlUar roll-top desk, there
being a real convenience In the arrangement, which
will make as great an appeal as its novelty.
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Very Surprising Current
Fashion Novelties De
scribed by Their Creator,
Lady Duff-Gordon,
the Famous "Lucile"
ADY DUFF-GORDON, ihe famous "Lucile" of Lon
don, and foremost creator of fashions in the world,
writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper.
presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed
women. '
Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into
close touch with that centre of fashion.
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dress
lace.
Another charming
tea gown which I think
you will like U en
tirely of chenille In
the softest oyster
shades. It Is faced
and piped with very
pale green satin, the
chiffon Inside being of
flesh color bound with
satin.
Nothing, could be
dearer than the little
cap which accompanies
this gown.. It Is of
lace and flowers, with
a chin strip.
In the semi-classical
full dress yon have a very effective type, but one
that la, of course, suitable only for large women.
The combination of an aluminum "coat of mail"
with a Greek bodice of black and diamonds and
an overdress of black velvet, which suggests an
old scholastic gown, la quite unusual.
The headdress Is of wings arranged from the
back and crossing in the front with two up
standing ends.,
It would seem that daintiness rather than dis
play Is the note of the season's Jewelry designs,
the pioneers of the change of device being certain
pendants and brooches fashioned, of the finest crys
tal band-carved with tiny, figures of gleeful, danc
ing Cupids, or equally diminutive and graceful, but
more pensively posed nymps.
. These pendants are of various shaping square,
oval, octagonal or round and they are enshrlnod
in little softly shimmering pearls and shining dia
monds, with, perhaps, a pale star-sapphire Intro
duced here and there, though the effect Is really
loveliest when only the three subtly different de
grees of whiteness are represented and contrasted
first the cool clearness of the crystal, then the
milky, satiny sheen of the pearls, and finally the
fiery flashes of the diamonds.
Why Science Has Blacklisted Pussy
THAT cats are the worst of frauds and do
mankind more harm than good Is one
of the latest edicts of science. The
sprightly kittens and staid old tabby cats
which for ages the human race has ranked
among Us best friends have all been placed
on the blacklist along with the horses which
the automobile has displaced and the dogs
which New Tork City's Health Commissioner
declares unfit for civilized communities.
According to the Biological Survey, the bu
reau of the Department of Agriculture, which
has been Investigating the claims of all sorts
of animals to our consideration, the cat has
been tolerated altogether too long. We have
' been deceived Into thinking that It Is a very
useful creature when, as a matter of fact. It Is
doing all that any animal could, and more
than most animals do, to destroy our bealth,
wealth and happiness.
The cat's case has been decided only after
the most careful deliberation. Arguments for
and against the creature have been beard, but
after weighing them all the court of science
gives the cat the most unsparing condemna
tion any animal has yet received.
One of the strongest counts against pussy
Is Its unpardonable cowardice. It masquer
ades as the protector of the household from
mice and rats. The truth is that not one cat
in a hundred has the courage to attack a rat.
Where rats are at all numerous they are quite
as likely to run the cats out of the house as
is the opposite thing to happen.
Mice are so inoffensive that they mignt bo
attacked with impunity were it not for the
overpowering laziness which makes the cct
usually disinclined to give them battle. Dr.
A. K. Fisher, one of the government's author
ities on cats, recently caught twelve mlco
under the bed in which he slept, despite the
fact that there were four cats in the house
hold. Cats might possibly be forgiven for not rid
ding our homes of rats aud mice, but there is
nothing to excuse their slaughter of chickens
and young birds. 'of whose flesh they are In
ordinately fond. Larks, robins and all the
other little feathered creatures which add to
much to the beauty of our city parks and
country lanes would be far more plentiful If
they were not being constantly slaughtered
by the treacherous cat. Cats are too cowardly
and lazy to attack rats and mice, but they find
keen delight In preying on harmless birds
which are too small and weak to escape from
their claws.
"Many an Innocent hawk, skunk, owl or
weasel," says the government bureau, "has
been shot for the deeds of that sleek high
wayman, the house cat It Is safe to say that
this marauder, which enjoys all the comforts
and protection of the nome, destroys In the
aggregate more wild birds and young poultry
than all their natural enemies combined."
But the government's main reason for de
claring war on our feline pets Is that they
carry dlsesse to the children and others that
handle them. Even the most aristocratic cat
enjoys roaming through all sorts of unsani
tary places, and its fur makes an ideal lodging
place for the germs of diphtheria, smallpox,
tuberculosis and other things which It may
pick up there. Ringworm Is one of the lesser
diseases whose prevalence Is attributed to our
having so many cats.
The fact that you can get hydrophobia from
a cat's "bite and that Its scratch often causes
btood poisoning gives science an additional
reason for placing pussy on the blacklist.
If we must have cats, science urges that
they Le kept In outhouses and never allowed
to bavo the run of our homes. Before chil
dren and others are allowed to handle cats
their gorm-laden coats of fur should be care
fully cleansed and treated with some power
ful antiseptic. But even when the cat's pos
slbllitles tor spreading disease have been re
duced to a minimum it is still a for less safe
and satisfactory household pet than even the
despised skunk would be.
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