The Omaha Sunday Bee I
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Slmpkirt Ytt
Lovolteat
Gown a.
Of Pal.
Colors
Mescaline,
ft Follow the
Lino
f th Flour
th
Draper!
f th Ancient
Greeks.
By Lady Duff-Gordon.
SrMPUOSTY ! th Mghst art la drs. ft
seem easy, but It la on of th tnoat
difficult artt, If yon desire proof of tbta
statement ratal I bow a bad dressmaker trime'
and retrlms, overtrlma and overloads ; a
gowaNritb trimming. Tha'excaaa of Karaltar
bldaa'tba dafecU la tutting and tha faalta la
Bowing or. - ao tb Inept dreaamakar tblnka.'
Tha output la vlgar, Inbarmoulona a poaltlv
aala to tha artistic cy. .
'TojproTtda'a'trlumpb.et aimpllclty tbaro
noat ba perfection of cut To aaaure tb par'
factly cut gown there inuat flrat bo aa ay aa
aennltlva to the Una aa a alnger to a fala not.
Tha almple gown la chiefly la on color. Or,
If thera b vartatlona they, aa a rula,'ar
narely different abadea of tb chief color, i If
another" color Introduced It ahould be on
that blend eaaily -wltti th principal on of the
costume. Combination ar atwaya a risk,
'and contrast! ar nor than liable to b tuI
gar. '.Approach reverently combination of
color.' When In doubt adher carefully and
eafely to tha one-color costume. Adopt th
ama ahade aa to gown, hosiery, ahoea, glovea,
wrapa. Until you ar absolutely aur of your
."color y' attempt cot the multiple colored
barafd.'
Tha righv use of color la aa art which only
one nation haa ever perfected. Tb Chines
fcave learned all that Is to t known of colore.
IHudy any mandarin coat or any pair of wide
ajlc trousers that bav really issued from China
and you can And la them, no matter bow richly
or elaborately embroidered, bo chromatio flaw.
While this la primarily true of th Chinese, it
Is nearly aa great a verity la regard tor Japan
and India. Th Orient la tb cradle olffarfect
V
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LADY DUFF-CORDON, the fusou "Lack" of
. Lsadoa, aad f oreatort creator el f aihioM ia ihe
world, write each weft th fatKioa erlicU fot
ahis newspaper, pmcatiai iH tLat it aeweel aad beet ia
etylae for wtll-Awn J wnmea.
tjidy Duf-Cordoa't Paris tlalruftaMal briai her
fclo doe toeck with thai team of faahioa.
coloring.1 A thousand year ago th' Chinas
learned all there la to know about color.
The moat glaring mistake and th common
est mad la color la that too brilliant one
are chosen. A woman' vanity ahould forbid
thla. It the color of ber gown la too brilliant
It will pale ber Individual brilliance. Th over
dressed . woman' personality la loat la her
clothe. '( Th well-dressed woman accentuatea
th not of ber own personality by ber apparel.
In thla respect la a valuable lessoa to b
learned from th Orient You approach an
Oriental rug with the Intent to purchaa. Th
color aeema to you atriklng.' Yet observe bow
th dominant color blende with the next la
ton and how that melts Into th next and all
Into th far perapeotlve of taint background
aa the mountain peak rnto Ita aurroundlng pur
ple or the aun lit wavea of the eea Into the blue
rim of the horizon. On color la a costume
ahould alnk into another aa do the tones of a
wall-modulated voice. Let there b no ahrteka
'nor strident tone In your apparel
While you may learn the art of blending
color from th atudy of Oriental garmenta and
allka and ruga, you may go to a more available
aourre for knowledi of Ka principle. Go to
nature for your lessons. In my bom at Ver
sailles 1 tt tor hours at my window looking
out upon my gardens and learning color lea
son. Or In an upper chamber of that home I
ait and watch tha aunaet fade into the dreamy
tonea of twilight and observe how they melt
Into tha ajuipl night. It you watch tb chang-
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Walking 8ult for the Early Autumn of Mus
tard Colored Broadcloth in tight Weight
Th Hat la of Slightly tighter 8hada.
lng aea and aky and tree you will not make
many mistakes la selecting the colors for your
gowns and hats.
Thar can be no triumphant aimpllclty with
out a study of form. Consider that young girl
whose attlr fasclnatea you by Us absolute
aimpllclty of Una. Those llnea ar fascinating
because true, and true "because they fit the na
ture and th time. Women, wtoo, to their Buf
fering, have been compared with many objects,
seem to me to greatly resemble trees. ,
That young girl ia like a slender sapling.
Tb person who designed her gown, whether It
be a modist of Paris or Vienna or a tired
mother In far-off Oahkoah, baa more or less
consciously followed th fashion of th young
tree. Therefor there are no curving lines,
but straight ones. . No garniture "cuts" the
aweet simplicity of the lines. From shoulder
to hem there la no rudely Interrupting line.
All Is white and quaint and aweet The only
color la the maidenly costume la the delicate
wreath of pink rosebuds encircling the broad
brimmed whiteness of her hat That costume
la not only an exquisite frame for ber fresh
young beauty, but it la a lesson In exquisite
aimpllclty. Fancy that rosebud girl dragging
about a fortune epent in a moleskin gown! I
have Been girlish beauty eclipsed, loat for the
time, la such a gown. The unbecoming mag
nificence caused her to look old and inelxnia
cant She aought distinction and ahe achieved
commonplacenesa.
Fabrics play an Important part In the attain
ment of aimpllclty. "Costly your hablta aa
your puree." etc, doea not apply to the choice
of materials. A splendid fcrocad might be a
good sartorial investment tor a queen whom
the demanda of state forced to wear it but it
would be a crime of extravagance tor a young
girl. For ber are musllna and soft allka, crepe
de chines and cobwebby mulls. It la only the
woman of splendid presence, with many years
behind her in llfe'a path, who may assume the
brocades, the heavy velveta and the weighty
allka. v
The first commandment in the decalogue of
dress is "Dress aa becomes you." The aecond
is "At all costs, aimpllclty.'
CoDrrlcUt Hit br th Star Company. Great Britain
FLlhi'iiiJI
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Late Garden Party Coetume of White Chiffon Skirt Abaelutaty Without Garniture. TH Hal
and Prsl Have DeJlct,Tuch ef . Griu
F.lghta reserve'
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.ieViiatiaiaaiitw ft tKaKNm . vrw . vear exi-.n?
Toilette for Debutante, of CNffon, with Girdle
and Uninge of Silk.
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