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'Iiffi::.(JM. Sunday. Bee Magazine Pag
Copyright, 1111, by tht Star Company. 5reet Britain Rights Reaemd.
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'N A.- A X A I
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Evening lij JJto'i'jrrr . jf
Furniture I f''
with . I 'M'V-V 'v 1
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Ornamenta. 1
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Ornamentation of the Latest Cloaks and Peculiarities
of htTailor Modes Described Jby Lady Duff-Gordon
ADV DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and
foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the
fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest
and best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close
touch with that centre of fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos." 37 and
39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York Uty
By LADY
BUFF- GORDON
("Ladle")
AM showing you
thla week a beau
tiful furnltura
'brocade evening
" cloak.- The- pattern
la modelled after tho
de!gns on tbo old
fashlonea fnrnlture '
coverings of Colonial '
timet. the .belt,"'
elasplpc ' tba clotk
midway between the
waist and tne inees,
is ojnamented with
Berjia woollen eu-
times there will only be a "lapped"
seam, Into which the coat is
gathered with a alight fulness, dis
tinguished from the old Russian
style by the total absence of e?ery
thing . in the way of pouching.
Sleeves are fairly long and narrow,
and are frequently finished off at
the wrist with a fancyful little cuff
and a ruffling of lace, while another
SIB
broidery - and large
blue glass beads. On
the belt also the Orl
ental tea lead de
signs are first intro
duced. The cuffs are
similarly finished
and have long pur
ple tassels. The col
lar 'has a touch of
briclc red satin, ex
tending into a long
rever down the front
Collar and rever
have pipings of tbe
same purple shade
as the tassels..
The other gown
also shows a furni
ture brocade evening cloak. It s of
cardinal red, but Is toned by an ex
quisite covering of purple marquisette,
which lends a wonderfully stunning
effect.. The gown Is faced with royal
blue satin piped with dull gold cord
ings. Similarly, the cuffs are faced
back with roral blue and gold. All
sea s about tbe shoulders and sleeves
are outlined with this old gold cord
ing. A handsome clasp to match holds
the , cloak; together Jus below the
Waist.. . . . v' ,',' .".' . '
' A large1 black velvet evening hat.
Introducing a spread, bow of Oriental
tea 'lead, which is the main feature of
the creation,' Is here shown. The hat
is surmounted by a beautiful white
osprey . plume, which rises high above
- 5 . i r: -, v the crown, and
.' . ' then trails back
: ' to the edge of
the wide brim. .
The 'feathers
are artificially
held In place
by tbe leaden
bOW. .
' The absolute
ly wonderful
adaptability of
those alike
' -:- -V-'V W
further, heightened by the final
three or four inches being left un
fastened and finished off with
rounded corners. This style I need
hardly point out to you, resulting
In a display of footwear and ankles
which makes the perfection of the
wearer's "understandings" eminent
ly desirable and, indeed, necessary.
And on nine out of every ten
models this skirt Beam is further
supplied with a closely clustered
array of buttons and attendant, and
attractively piped, or stitched, but
tonholes, the combination of this
central trimming on the coat
where, of course, it provides for
the actual fastening as well as fin
ish of the garment being the dis
tinctive feature of the new "Sou
tane" suits, which are truly like
nothing so much as a priestly cassock.
And if you want to carry out the
idea to the extreme of demure
daring you have only - to select
black taffetas as the material, of
your suit; let all tbe buttons be
covered in the same silk; and here,
for sole finish and relief, -a small
turnover collar and equally modest
cuffs of fine white embroidery. .
Very fine meshed metallic nets
will also have their uses where
evening uresses are In question
arid is creation as will also diamond-spangled
nets; and, by . the
way, this glittering shower will very
often' have a filmy steel-gray ground
to show it off to perhaps even better
advantage than the more ordinary
black or white nets, though these, I
need hardly tell you, will also be
well represented both in the form
of patterned fabrics and dual -veil
ings oi plain net.
Furniture Brocade Evening Cloak of Cardinal Red, Faced
with Royal Blue Satin and Dull Gold Cording.
("Lucile" Model)
Black Velvet Evening Hat, with Lead Bow and White Osprey Feathers.
("Lucile" Model.)
1
who create an dfollow the new
fashions has, once more, been
impressed upon me by a considera
tion of the latest tailor-mades. For
the severely simple and straight .
effects which have made the coat
and skirt costumes of the past two
or three seasons so distinctive (and
to my thinking so eminently and
specially desirable), having now
lost something of their popularity,
a prompt and complete change has
been made which brings . such
tailored suits into line, not to say
rivalry, with the essentially femi
nine and fascinating creations of
the dressmakers- And so it is that
many of the newest coat models
, whose measurements are still quite
short, that Is from, say, twenty-four.
to twenty-eight inches have a defi
nitely marked waist line and are
then continued In the form of a
basque, which sometimes actually
shows . kilted edging, or then,
, again, one of the taffetas" ruchings,
which are so closely connected with
the revived early. Victorian modes
and models. A narrow leather belt
to encircle and accentuate the
waist is often added, though some-
point of difference which at once
proclaims the productions of the
season is the banishment of the
kimono shoulder in . favor of the
separate and , seamed sleeve, though,
to be sure, the carefully Introduced
Join Is very often Just as carefully
hidden again by some softly hang
ing rever or collar. For these grace
ful additions only a single unllned
fabric is used a fine faced cloth,
for example, with Just a hemstitched
border, while if a contrast is
desired black chiffon taffetas is
much In favor for the purpose,
cuffs of the same selected fabric
being always to be recommended as
a further addition.
. As to the skirts of such tailor
made suits, they are most frequent
ly made in corseted form, and, at
the back, slightly gathered onto the
necessary and inner banding of
Petersham of some two inches in
width. But, alwayB, in the front,
they are absolutely plain and
tightly drawn across the figure,
their close fit being there accentu
ated by a centre seam which, being
"lapped," gives the effect of an
actual fastening, the illusion being
-' 1 . " " ""' LM
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f "i 1 iiTrrTii .nw 'IWI I - .. .. i:.,i.;h .ii a .-'n hum
A -
A cava written ably ori the 'subject of
,reduc!pg flesh. . Do oblige me and'
aaany . other skinny and bone readers by
wTttin me of your instructive chapteron
the subject of how to Increase the flesh "
My prescription for the Increase of flesh
la twofold. counsel peace of mind and
aatlAf flesh-making foods. . ,
Generally speaking, thin persons are oi
Mp. 197---How to Gain Flesh.
All for the Beit
HO-O-OTi i
It waa dinner Mm, and with signs
f relief the workmen discarded their
tMls and settled down to eat
Alt except one old laborer, who Mt
In all his poeketa, and then cried in
-iijr:" - .-.': ;,'."'
' "Here, you fellows, rve lost me din-
irr.t'V'y;)v:.;;v,
Tfc . athers teneroualy offered him
hares af tkelra, but auddeply a broad -mil
stole across hie wrinkled face.
("Poa't matter to much after alU
ka aald. Uugkiug- loudly. , "Fact la! it's .
feed thing- I did loae It!" .
"Why. mater asked on of tk
etra. . " - . .
"'Caaae Tva bla and left me teeth
at ioma."- .
- f .- . Warruited.- '--) '.
Little Tlddle (nervoualy) Have you
Vary qnlet horaef It must be Ilk
lama, aejther kick nor aby. and not
go too fast :
I4vry Stable Keeper contemptn-MelyH-Cartainlr.
guVnor. Whlclilt
yer have a do tat 'or or a rockin'.
amt - - - - '. a
I sit? VC? '
1
V
V SI . iV
T
f
hi
nervous tempera- ,
ment. They have a '
positive genius for
; worry. Stop'worryln .
and control your
nerves. This can . be
. lone through the practise ,
of common seuse and the ,
extrclse -of your will; Train
yourself aloig this line and It
f will : amate you . to aee' what
progress you have made ia a tew
; months. It is possible not to let
tlln and persons get on your
nerves. Try It, and keep on trying,
: until tbe avoidance ecome a habit
1 ' ' You will be less nervous if jou uke
i more rest Sleep; or It you cant sleep.
remain in bed an extra hour or two, if ;
. possible, every night And if your clrcum-
, stances permit tajte a nap or a half-hour or
' more of relaxation at noon. Rest after meals. - V,
- Aside from this narva control and banish
; l ment ofworry, the greatest aid in tlssh-maklna
- Mme.
' ' Una
Cavaliers.
is in the greater
'quantity and differ
ent quality of food.
8clenca has lately .
. contributed a valuable '
Item to the tlsah-making
foods, The pine nut.
known as plgnolia, is ons
of the foods richest In fatty
matter and In fat-making In
gredients. Or. Harvey W. Wiley,
tha great food expert and advo
cate of tho pure food law, calls,
attention to the .fact that those .
small, sleek, white nuts ar com- ,
possd of nearly 60 per cent of fat, and
that the sugar and starch, also fat.
making Ingredients, In them amount to
17 per cant of their composition. They have
heat-making properties equalling those or
butter, containing nearly four times as much
nourishment as lean beef. This discovery I
repeat, hoping that those persons to whom the
By Mme. Lina
Cavalieri.
idea of eating pork or fatty beef will be
obnoxious will find an excellent substitute
in this. . j
Butter Is a fattening agent. Spread
bread thickly with this and eat foods
cooked In It, if you would grow flesh. But
because butter and cod liver oil are be
lleved to Interfere In some cases with di
gestion, I would advise the free use of
cream and milk Instead. .
As a rule the person who Is too thin is
anaemic, and those foods whic". rebuild
the system will tend to round the body.
For such persons thick soups are desirable.
Thick broths are strengthening and re
building. Vermicelli and macroni, added
to thick soups, tends totatten. In Germany
I came on an anaemic young woman taking
the euro at one of the baths.
"What Is that you are eating?" I In
quired, looking etublously at a thick sand
wich she ate with evident relish
"It Is a chopped raw beef sandwich
mixed with chocolate," the said. "It Is de-
i - a ... i bmJaii waii Anaf
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I i V Vf J ""UKil w". 111!
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Biting Sarcasm.
NEIGHBORS are all very well when
it's a question of your doing
them a good turn; but when It comes
to a question of them helping you, it's
a very different thing.
When Mr. Smith's house caught Are
the first thing he did was to rush out
to seek help from his neighbors. Already-
there were two upon the scene.
"I say," he cried anxiously to one of
tHem. "will you rush to the corner and
give tha alarm f
Sensible Girl.
THEIR boat was drifting idly, tht
sun shone above, soothing the
soul, and the sea was serene; while ah
she waa altting snugly, not ou tha
same aid of the ship.
Then he proposed.
From the opposite side of the craft
she gased at him calmly. Then ah
apoke:
"A a matter of common-senaa. ai.
izlng that we ar in this boat, on water
"Awfully sorry " was the reply, "my which Is more than fifty feet deeo and
leg'e very bad. Can t move." that If you were to act aa you should
"Welt look here." said smith to the act if I accepted you we would i h.
other. "Would you mind running to capaiscd, I will decline your proaoaal
the corner and ahouting 'Fire!' whilst at the moment-but, George, row
w - - " .u uvuoqi
fast as you can to the ahor and ask
me again!"
Tea. that girl will make a good wife.
What Could He Do?
Education's Triumph
PDDICATION." remarked Very
Ej Weary Willie to hi brother
I declined, tor It happens that I 8like .
both raw meats, and chocolates, cui ht empha8i,e(i hU r.marks by uproot,
asked her about her regimen, and found thatjing; an inoffen,ive aaisy.
part of ber prescribed dally diet was sand-j -i l ain't ao aur.- replied the
.mm made of choDDed or scraped meat; other. "I've a hidea that we couldn't
.rai hva thA meat for r. Hamburxeri get hoo without it."
Mt
steak, and mixed with or m -..,-1 .oito h
broth, butter or cod liver oil, or,-as a,8 didn't" answered w.
special reward of merit sne was gratstea No. I. "But per'ap you didn't to
th variety she most liked, raw beef with
chocolate. - .''
Raw oysters were also permitted, but
there was almost no lemon juice sprinkled alcati0n no good?
upon them and vinegar was not anowea
upon the table. Eggs she was allowed
without limit, and she was urged to take
them beaten up In milk from which
the cream had not been removed. All ceM
reals were admlasable, especially barley,
hominy, taoioea and M-aekarf wheat I
-sorry, aiao. cam me response;
"I'm suffering from frightful or
throat Couldn't make any .oise If I
tried all night" ,
"Oh." aald Smith. "I'm sorry my.
self that you can't helo m.n- n
added, with biting sarcasm: "Sunnos. SCOPARE me a penny, air. nla..r
you go and fetch out easy chairs and aJ The clergyman atoDned
enjoy the blaser Iooked ar01jn(1 70
uipriB. inaieao or an old or middle
aged waster he saw a youth of nine,
teen confronting him.
"My lad," he exclaimed. Tmaahamd
you ought to be at work inatead of
begging. How came you to do ItT"
"Well, air." replied the youth. "Ira
n '"V Twelve "oatha ago I !
Ill and the doctor forbad m to do
any work until he told me. Just after
that be died. So what can I dor
EaslljDone.
Sh How hot it wa in therl And
I do hat to be aqueesed in a crowdl
H (moving cloier) That I r
natural 'Ml.. Flosslaj but-ertkere
Is crowd here, you know.
i In use. . '
"Uld you get on your knees. wun
you propoaedr
bni.t it hlo the rirht anirltr
"Well, what did you get hout of itr
"What did I get? Two coats, four
hats, a stick, and eight umbrella. fc.a-
Rotr - -
A Whirligig of Time.
Bobby Ain"t it funny uamma?
Mamma What dear?
Bohby Why to-day will be yeater
day to-morrow.
them!
No; th girt 1 nroDoaxi m