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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 6, 1912)
. iiiITTW ... - The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page - ' , . - f . Copyright, lilt, by the Star Company. Great Britain Rights Referred. I s tews i ' VMktt ' ' A 0 ,; -VPs: Mr ' . j f. ; I ' I hi , fn' ".Id ' V ? . I l U tl ; 'f'i "''. .;V ) ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of Londori, and foremost creator of fashions in the World, writes each week the on article for this newspaper, presenting all . that is newest And best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. - Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York City pink season Miss Burke's costumes are In those colors. The gowns are Of white and the garniture almost wholly of pink. This is true even td the negligee which she wears, itt the morning, white chiffon over a ' foundation of pale pink, like the in ner part fit a shell or the softly tinted heart of a blush rose. Though 6 early in the new Autumn season certain notes have been definitely sounded and certain lines drawn as to the modes that will prevail. The dlrecfolre influence is, per haps, the dominant one while the Louis XV Inspiration is also still evidenced itt the much modified pan nier skirt draperies, though nowa days (and nights) the said draper ies are only permitted to suggest, 'in the most stubtle and therefore meet becoming way, those puffs about the hips that once distorted the most graceful figure. Sometimes it Is true you will See and there is just the chance that you yourself will be induced to wear an evening dress whose tunlo folds of net will be of quite billowy fullness, but this because they are also Quite transparent The slender and straight outline of the figure and the underskirt will never be lost sight of for a moment, ,. By the way,' too, some of these diaphanous panniers ars bdng made , with long, fur-bordered slits at , either side which have something et the quaint effect of huge and un- expected pockets. And then we are destined to see . more much more, la fact of the pleated skirt which came td us singly and somewhat nervously in the late Spring and early Autumn, but is now arriving boldly and in positive and pretty battalionsl When well-made, these skirts can be very attractive, but real and special skill is demanded for their making if they are to give the new freedom of movement and, withaL retain the old narrow silhouette. As to our waist line it Is undoubt edly to move down a little and pos sibly also to decrease in clrcumfer enoe by an inch or so if, that is, we are to accept the guidance of an impressive number of the new mod els, where the waist is encircled and accentuated by deep belts and closely swathed sashes. But also, and because fashion is so wise now, that she manages to be all things' to all women, there are many rather high-waisted and other almost waUtless gowns, while certain of the more extreme evening models are designed to be worn without any corsets at all. I note too and deplore a ten dency in some quarters to restrict our prized and pretty neck-freedom by. the bondage of high-folded collar-bands and cravats, but Still I have sufficient confidence in the all' tiohquering and charming low collar, to believe that rio such attempts will be able to diminish the number, and the enthusiasm, of its wearers. Very long sleeves (glove fitting from the exceedingly low shoulder una 10 me wrist or the knuckles) are to be a feature of Autumn KQWnSr By LADY DUFF GORDON ("LucileM) OKB of the most charming act resses for whom I have fur nished wardrobes is Miss Biilie Burke the little cosmopolitan who looks well In fashions of any clime, of time. Hill Burke hat the chio tnost de sired by Farisiennes and all well dressed women. She has Titian hair, blue eyes and fair, rosy skin that, lend themselv el to nearly any color. She Is, indeed, a most satisfactory little person td dress, knowing as she does what she wants, and being amiability and gratitude themselves when the gets them. It was i pleasure to supply her with the Smart costumes She wears In her latest success "The 'Mind the Paint' Girl" Her entrance gown the girlish afternoon costume which she has been wearing while she posed for bef lattat portrait. Is one of the most attractive of her robes. Its lines are Cf the' straight, shoulder to hem sort, that give Added girl lshnees to a girlish figure, and sub-; tract years from a matronly one. Miss Bttrke makes her entrance up on the stage la her new play, tn this gown of straight lines and glrllshess and the audience notes in pleased mood that It Is of "all over lace of simple, conventional pattern. It conforms to the mode by giving a flounced effect in straight lines without added breadth to the flgttreThe flounce Is scant and let upon "another, each being about eighteen inchei deep and no fuller ' than the skirt where it ts gathered upon the hip, while two r.nfl & half yards wide, it is so soft and clings so closely to the figure that the skirt seems scarcely wider than the hobble of the past two seasons. It is made over a slip of the same frostlike whiteness. .A charming little- white satin- peasant bonnet, adorned with a garland of rosebuds, completes the' costume. f When she returns to her home, after the birthday dinner given on the stage tn her honor, she wears over her white evening gown of chiffon- and crystal embroidery a cloak of white chiffon lined with the same material and bordered with satin and fringe . TSe neck, front and targe, flowing sleeves of the evening cloak, are. bordered with Satin fringe. Cross rows of the fringe are arranged in geometrio de sign across the skirt of the coat, meeting the border of satin tn front. The gown and cloak give excellent hints to the young girl tor her afternoon and evening attire, tall Autumn. " Keeping In mind the fact that this to be largely a white and Two Lu cile Models designed tot and worn by RtUiBniy Burke in The 'Mind the Paint Girl" At Right An After noon Gown of White Lace Over a Foundation of White Satin, Shows the New, ' Straight, Full v Skirt. Above . Evening Ooak of White Chif fon Over a Self Lining, Trimmed with Fringe and Band of White Satin. r -V"-" "! i " VwA X 1 f. I ! -; , i " i t v ii V 1 it v r.y i " I C-i.- & . t . . , Cava- ' Ls v- ; 'ijMf'V ' ' ' .Kerf... ' iA. - ' " S 'J - - s : - - "V", If 1,.: r No. 195 i Li-, 1 f Hf.v us for your face to slip fl ' ' . yv s i ' ; ss ffuws Beauty Questions Answered 3y Mrae. UNA CAVALIERt COME, girls, whatever your age, for It Is pleasant to keep up the . Illusions of girlhood, though hair be white and skin tend ing to the formation of hundreds of fine point lines, draw up your chairs here on the hotel piasza and let us chat of newest things In beauty culture.'- ' - ' Do you know that you must talk no more of facial massage? No, that is quite obsolete, rtally far out of date, you know. Now It is face manipulation, or feature building. Some term it face liftiug. What is itt It la massage Improved, amend ed, rendered far more scientific than before. , - You dldnt know that your face is inclined to slip, did you T It is, and it is as serious for your faoe to slip far on 'jiq as It la for icy pavement In midwinter. And face manipulation or feature build ing work hard and successfully against U.?9 tendency. The cheek muscles are the. chief sinners in this matter of muscle slipping. The heavy, flat muscles of the cheeks begin to slide downward, and unless their course a arrested the lower part of the face grows heavy. The chin sinks with its own weight and the fine, clear cut line of the lower jaw Is lost In sagging muscles' and 1 unwelcome and unbecoming tat The face that is falling must be lifted up. Therefore must there be strong, heay, upward strokes from chin to ears, strokes so strong that . the muscles tingle and the blood rushes in a flood to the face. If the lines about your lips are growing deep and gashlike n is because the cheek muscles are slipping down the sides of the face toward the chin. Strengthen them by strong, heavy, upward strokes. Have your eyes begun to look sunken In a lake of dark, unhealthy looking skin? That is because the cheek muscles are drawing away from them and not giving them their needed support Strong, straplike . movements of all the fingers from the Inner part of the nose along the . upper cheekbones will stimulate the muscles and make them firm. So for the perpendicular lines between the brows that show eyestrain, or . worry, brush these away by deep, Btrong, quick strokes St the fingers. This, my friends, is the face build ing, or hoisting, for which a great deal that is favorable may be said. Do yotl know that the largs, loose, lazy muscles Of the abdomen that Bag and give the figure a vulgar, un lovely aspect, can be made firm and hard in a most commonplace way? Doctors have noticed that ttoe washer woman never shows these sagging muscles' that so detract from the beauty and elegance of the figure. Whyt Because . Bhe stoops over the washtub hour after hour and day after day, and ihli stooping hardens the muscles. MuscleB in a woman's body that are seldom used and so very weak are those of the back. Gardening develops them. The chest is e panded and the lungs enlarged, the blood purified, by gardening. It were well for us all to take to the garden. The morning is the time when we ar most liable to be lazy and to shirk our exercises. Yet they should be taken before our bath. Did ye know.that there are running. ma cnines that can be folded up and hung on your bathroom wall, that taken down, take little space on the floor, and yet by -?hich you can have a vigorous run, ; equal to a couple of miles before your plunge and breakfast? A. B. C. sends this apparently characteristic letter: "I don't know whether you will regard me as an intruder or not, as I belong to the opposite sex. But if you will anwwer. this question I will never consider myself capable of thank ing you. I am six feet one, medium build, but with a voice like a baby, which embarrasses me very much. I have taken two years' singing lessons, practicing the low notes, without benefit' I wish I could kill the voice, stamp it out of existence-" . I suspect that your trouble Is in targe par', timidity. The voice re flects the character. Cultivate cour age. Practice deep breathing. - Be encouraged by ".the example of Demosthenes. He had a weak voice, an Impediment of speech; yet he used to fill hi mouth with pebbles and go out to the seashore and talk gainst the thunder of the waves." Exercise determination and cour age will eventually encourage a weak voice. Go into the woods or beside the seashore and rehearse that voice, j Y M. writes me: "I have read your beauty hints in the Sunday newspaper for a long time and have greatly profited by them. Now I am asking you to -please nelp me. ''I am a young girl of nineteen and for about two yean have been ourling my hair. Lately I have noticed that my hair is lifting in front and is getting very thin. Please advise me what to do." I take It for granted that yetf mean you have been curling your hair with hot Irons. First stop that practice,- which sooner or later ruins the hair. If you have been using 1 curl paper stop that No matter If your hair does look die orderly while adjusting . Itself to , new conditions, don't touch your hair with Irons again. Be resigned to straight hair, which 80 many pre.:er. Massage the whole scalp dally with finger that have been dipped Into lanolins, but massage longest . and most vigorously with lai.wline. After a time let this treat mnt alternate ' with any geed quinine tonic.