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The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
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Copyright, 1912, by Araerlcah-Exair'ner. " Great Britain Rights Reserved.
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: A Somewhat Eccentric Fall Model in Ratine of the New . A if it U IsA 't i 1
Abiinthe 'Color Lined with Pale Mauve Panne. . . Y m F&p V'v t t j
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Jhv rSw-n'.v ".w"VA
face : In which : 7 , l VJSt ; r:.-V r III I
. I 1 sending you to-day two ex- ly in PPllque form, and then edged . gloves of -golden . ' v A VK,rAVi j6;vy liStf&V I -
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LADY DUFF-GORDON. the famous "Lucile" of London, and
- foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the
fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest
and best in styles -for well-dressed i women. v
Lady Duff -Gordon's new Paris wtablishment brings her into close
, touch with. that centre of fashion..
. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is ' at Nos. 37 and
39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York City.'
By Lady Duff-Gordon C'Lucile")
F the latent Fall models I am
sending you to-day two ex
amples. One of them is
little eccentric and under no cir
cumstances could be worn by any
but the very youngest and slightest
women. : '' .
It is a new variety oi ratine In
the new absinthe color. It is lined
with pale mauve panne blch
shows as the wearer moves. There
is a suspicion of ermine on the
cuffs and collar. The' trimmings are
made of the ratine. ?
with this costume are worn gloves
of the color of . the ermine, while
the shoes and stockings are of the
eame color as the dress. .
The hat is pale mauve panne lined
with black. On the right hand side
1s a little bunch of flowers made In'
orange, blue and various shades ot
deeper mauve silk.
The very newest variety of ostrich
- feather of a faded scarabs blue
adorns the hat, and the beaded bag
is in various shades of this same
blue. '
-The costume is a charming one,
but us I have Indicated, too extreme
for the average woman. v
The other gown, made for Gaby
Deslys, is suitable for anyone. It is
made of lace. The underdress is of
white lace which forms two ruffles
at the bottom of the skirt. Over
this there is a drapery of black
Chantilly. slightly gathered about tne
waist and allowed to fall easily,
ending in scallops just above the top
white lace ftouuee. The blouse con
sists of a hand embroidered muslin
fichu draped over the shoulders aud
held In the front and back beueatu
A cerise velvet girdle.
' Every woman loves to hear about
wedding garments, and so I who
love making them, too am glad to
be able to send you news this week
of some dainty dresses for Lady
Diana Manners, the beautiful bride
elect of the Marquis of Anglesey,
whose marriage will provide a
splendid, not f say sensational,
finish the season.
And it is in one of my prettiest
gowns that the rnarchtones.8 will
start on her honeymoon journey
and begin her new life. Imagine
first a little slip of an underdress
of fiesb pink cbarmeuse on which
narrow strips of lace are laid flat
ly in applique form, and then edged
with a' tiny ruffling of .Valenciennes
while at the hem: there comes a
broad encircling transparency of
lace on which circlets of gathered
lace are set like so many blossoms
and . outlined and centred with
pipings ot pale pink satin. A peep
of pale blue comes here and there,
too, on both the filmy pink ninon of
the corsage and the charmeuse of
the tkirt, for blue means luck, for
the bride, you know and, as I
think, for any; woman at all times,
and so it is that in practically,
every dress I make, there Js, some
where or other, a tiny touch of the
, lucky and lovely color which, of
course, always looks its loveliest
in conjunction and contrast with
the palest of pinks, Jt being a fa v.
orlte plan of mine, you know, to
complete such a color scheme with
stockings of flesh pink silk and
shoes of pale blue satin , r
" Indeed, I hope that I have already
so impressed this fact, and its fasci
nation, upon you, that you have tried
its effects for yourself with $ome
"alluring" boudoir gown, or deli
cate dance dress," and ' with 1 the
happiest possible results. , Well,
now, to go back to Lady Diana's
"going away" dress. - You must
know that, over the lace-adorned
charmeuse blip there comes, a veil
ing of, ivory-tinted net and lace,
very deeply scalloped at the hem
where it is all edged with a narrow
binding of pure satin, and a ruffling
of Val. lace, the depth of , these
scallops, meaning, of course, that
in between you see glimpses ot all
the inner daintiness of the trans
parent lace. .A box pleating of lace
encircles the skirt midway, all its
soft fullness being-followed by a nar-.
row line of pink jjicot edged baby
ribbon, while above this again there
are three graduated folds of satin
which all show beneath the short
scalloped tunic of lace. The quaint
little high walsted bolero corsage
being of this same beautifully pat
. terned and toned lace. And now,
perhaps, you will realire that the
dark-eyed, delicately featured and
slim figured bride will be a vision
of loveliness in this ethereal at
tire... . .. . .
One of her trousseau dresses, my
favorite, I think, is of delicate green
charmeuse, with a fine ruffled sur
face in which
gloves of -golden
yellow are Im
prisoned, the first
suggestion bf color
being- ' eventually" :
concentrated and realized In the lit
tie knot of satin which catches to
gether the loops of the little lace
tie. There is a deeply down-turned
collar, too. of ivory-toned lawn as
fine as a cobweb broidered with
tiny fcprays of flowers and edged -with
lace. This same dainty fab
ric being folded like a fichu on the
corsage and then forming a-long,"
loosely hanging apron panel on the
front, of the skirt. - And between
the crossover folds of the soft,"
mellow-toned, lawn there shows the
pure whiteness of a little chemi
sette of Val. lace. This contrast
a striking as well as a subtle one
being repeated in the undersieeves. -.
And for the waistband I have used '
a soft, dark blue mousseline striped
narrowly with . white and further ;
patterned with showers or wee, pink
roses. The lilac colored satin
which outlines the swathing of the
waistband at either side being
soown again ana more prominently
erclse, for the weight of the hair
pulling gently at the roots strength
ened the roots of the hair and re
newed the circulation in it as the
calisthenics develop a puny arm.
"The poise of your head is better.
Gaby Deslya in a New "Lucile" Model Lace Gown Designed
7 ; for Early Fall Wear.; ? : :
coloring, or, 'at any rate, ' whose
bordering should . match the tie in
' tint; This is, I think, one of the
' best examples of the plain tailor
suit, which is 6uch an important
item in every woman's and each
season's outfit, and I - have, also
made its duplicate for ' the bride
(and for several other well-known
.society women this season) in nat
ural shantung, with the same er
st the foot of the draDed skirt. ' r"0.'. "."I. r.;
rfi. if underl'Dea tn ,hem a black satin, the crepe de chine ties
depth of home five or six inches, - selected for wear with the shirt
nun is oruugni inio outward view"
by the catching, up of the soft
charmeuse folds at one side.
A complete contrast to this "pic-,
ture" dress 1 a trim tailor-made of
dark navy blue coating serge. The
coat quite straight and plain and
opening over a single-breasted
waistcoat of white piquo, held in at
the waist by a very deeply folded
band of black satin. , The skirt
which completes the costume is of
white Jap. silk and has a scarf of
crepe de chine (blue or black or
green or purple to suit the mood
and the millinery of the moment)
knotted beneath the "polo" collar.
The buttons and links which serve
for the fastening of the front and
the sleeves being such pretty pearl
things with , a "ribbon and reedV
bordering of silver, while they are
stitched through the centre; too,
with silver. A single butt aa is
also set on tbe point of the little
breast-pocket which figures at the
left side of the f hlrt and from
which there should peep out the
corner of a filmy mouchoir whose
:
being in this case ot saxe and China
blue shadings. I have seen a new
' hat, too, which I think must have
been foreordained to complete this
particular and , pet costume of
mine. 1 It is in black beaver vel
ours and in that latest and rather
large sailer shape, which has a '
moderately high crown and a rath
er wide brim, whose slight upward
roll at either side Is accentuated
, by a larme made of the same felt,
but with the soft plush-like surface
worked in the reverse way. It is
set well down on the head and at
a slight tilt, too, which brings into
most piquant position the three
central and upstanding white
quills which are fastened by a band
, and a prim little fiat bow ot white
corded silk ribbon. , The same
shape looks well in bottle green
felt,. or again in a black Panama
' straw, the trimming always -being
of the pure white. But1 on the ,
whole, and though this straw is
so beautifully light, I think I pre
fer the soft felt for- the modelling
ot this particular and piquant
shape, so perhaps it is just as well
that straws have been almost ousted
already by the . felt, which, ordl- .
narlly, we do not begin to wear
till, say; October. It la. really
rather quaint that Fashion should
have chosen . one of' the hottest
, Summers on .record for; such a
choice of headgear, and, further
more, for : a renewal of fur trim
mings for the most gossamery ot
gowns. But the fact remains that
she has so chosen and that we, her
faithful followers, not to say slaves,
are proving as unquestioningly obe
dient as usual.
The practically untrimmed hat is
still a favorite of hers and ours
too, its latest development being a
soft shape of white felt, edged with
a iand of wool braid in some vivid
' solor, such as- purple, yellow, car
rot red or emerald green, a band
of the same very open-meshed braid
being drawn round the crown and
tied in a jaunty little bow at one
side. - -. ' - j
Or, , then again, there will be
Just dropped . down with most
carefully contrived carelessness
at one edge of a rather wide brim,
a' single long-stalked rose ot bril
liant crimson, or else a couple of
temptingly ripe-looking cherries,
while actually 1 have seen a single
strawberry, used in this way and
looking Eo startlingly lovely and";
incongruous in its new snd prom
inent position that one longed to
' pick it off and deposit it comfort
ably on a plate! Really, that was
just a little too freakish, don't you .
think? j '
By Mme. Lina Cavalieri,
the Most Famous Living Beauty
i92--0ur Bodies Our Servants
MME. CAVALIERI asserts to-day that our bodies are our servants
and we can make of them whatever we wish. She recites her
sparkling conversation with a Parisienne who had been plain,
but became beautiful by exacting this same body obedience. The article
is exceptionally valuable. , .
By Mme. Lina Cavalieri. -
THIS morning a brilliant and
beautiful Frenchwoman said
to me: "Our bodies are our
servants. We can do with them
whatever we will, make of them
. whatever we wish."
"Whatarer we wish," I echoed. "Do
you quite believe that?'
."Quite," she responded with one of
her smiles, slow,' persuasive, illuml
nating, that always reminded me of
a sunrise.
Then, suddenly, I remembered that
she had not always been as she was
now, and my thoughts, -travelling
swiftly back along the path of the
years, recalled to me that there had
been a time when I had thought her,
quite plain. . Plain 'this radiant
creature." ' ,
But it was true, and as delicately
as I could I reminded her of the.,
transformation, and asked her how
it had been wrought.
"You must admit, my dear
Yvonne," I said, with a smile of
apology, "that you' had not always
the style you have now; 'that seems
now to be natural."
"Style." She blew imaginary this
tledown from the tips of her fingers.
"Style is that Natural style does
not exist." ;i ;,: -p;r
"But some,, persons look . better ..
than others, even though . their w
clothes are the same," I persisted. ',
"Some persons have "more distinct,
tion than others," she admitted., '.'But ,
' style, that is, chic, no. No, no.
People are the same as to raw ma- '
terlal. . All persons are equally ugly
when undressed. They are like the -1
bare canvas on the easel, awaiting
the painter's brush. We paint our
selves with our gowns, our hats, our
gloves, our boots"
"Interesting," I mused. -
"True," she insisted. - "Consider
the friends you see within an hour
after rising.. How do they look?
Ugly? Yes. Old? ; Yes. Sleep is.
a mystery past solving. It is a form
of death. In a sense we die every
night and - are resurrected in the
morning. In that strange coma ths
muscles of our faces , sink.
"You said 'we can make of our
bodies anything we like." '
"Ah, yes! And I have proven it
You would have an example? When
' you knew me first I was becoming
stout I had taken on that too
great fullness about the middle" of
the body that is the defect in the
figures of your American friends.
My lines are now girlish, are they
not?" - ,
"Resolving to make my body
obey me instead of my obeying my
body, I began stooping many times
every morning. Not content with
the usual exercises of bending so
that the tips of my Angers touched
the floor, my knees unbent, I picked
up every pin I saw in the house or
. ou the street1 I never passed a
raveling from a bit of cloth lying
on the floor without picking it up.
If I dropped my paper-knife or a
letter, or my gloves, I permitted no
one else to pick it up. I did so my
self.' It was by bending from the
waist many times a day that I got
the muscles of the hips and abdo
men again under control. I made
my body obey me, with the results
you have seen."
"Your, hair?" I said. "I remem-.
ber when it was not so glossy and
1 vigorous as it is today." ' .
"You are quite right It looked'
dead as a brush heap in Winter. , I
r determined to develop Its life and
.gloss, and I began to give ..it care;
in other words, to give it a chance.
What does a doctor do when he
wants his patient to live? He 1n-
sists on his getting more air.
"While my halt was taking the '
the air it. was also taking ex-
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, Mme. Lina Cavalieri.
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It gives you the air of added height,''
I suggested.
. "Catching a glimpse of myself
while my head was lowered. I was
shocked at the reflection. . I- knew
my mirror ; was a- true one. I
looked , older and sad . and dull.
Raising my chin, in a gesture ot
surprise, I was amazed to see the
difference. - At least five years
seemed to vanish as by magic. Every
day since then I have raised my chin
and stretched my neck, repeating the
exercise until I had warnings of a
headache. This I have never failed
to do four times a day sluce I re
ceived my warning. -
"It shocks a woman to catch such
a glimpse of herself. It is as
though she met the woman she
would be fifty years hence."
BeaMy Questions Answered
B. S. writes: "I have Unions that
cause me hours of agony. Please
let me knotr through the paper what
I can do to cure them." , .
The chief cause of bunions is
wearing shoes that are '.oo short or
too narrow. This vlll cause the en
largement and widening of the Joint
of the great toe. First remove the
cause by. wearing shoes of reason
able size. Applying cloths that have
een wrung out of hot water, re
eves the Irritation. Applications
of the following will relieve both
; corns and bunions, though I do not
claim anything will absolutely cure
bunions. In the words of 'an au
thority they are, In their nature,
more or lest permanent ; 1
Flexible collodion.......... ..1 oz.
Salicylic cid...W..........1 dram
Paint the bunion with thic mix
ture every other day, or, if you are
suffering e tremely, every day.
N. Ks request is, "Kindly pub
llsh the way, if there is any, of re
- moving a mole besides using the
electric needle."
Caustics are said to have removed
, moles, but as there is alweys a risk
of Injuring seriously the surround
ing flesh and skin, I do not recom
mend them.
"The means of application is thus
describsd by an authority who dif
fers from me.
If the mole is a raised one, stand
ing out from- the surface, obtain a
small piece pf lunar caustic and
fasten It securely upon a quill
. Moisten the mole with saliva and
rub on the caustic, but be careful
not to touch the healthy flesh. Re
peat this regularly, say every night
.and morning. The mole will turn
black and peel off. When the spot
appears on a level with the flesh use
a little hsaling ointment on it If
the mole has entirely disappeared
continue to apply the salve. If not
use the caustic again.
If the mole is flat applications
with a toothpick or pointed match
dipped into muriatic acid or glacial
acetic acid are recommended by the
same authority. I do not recommend
them because they may leave scars
uglier than the moles.
