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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (June 9, 1912)
The Omaha Sunday B ee Magazine Page i " 1 " " 1 1 ... . . . i ( " ' 1 0 -''V c , , I ;r - The Kismet Walking Gown, a "Lucile" Creation m Natural Color Tussore. The Front of the Bodice Is Heavly Embroidered in Self Colored Silk in Oriental Designs. LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous ' "Lucile" of London, and foremost cre ator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article Tor this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment bring her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at No. 17 West Thirty-sixth street. New York City. By Lady Duff-Gordon, ("Lucile") THERE, are, I believe, lucky dresses and unlucky dresses. Dress has" a force all Its own. I do notj mean this in a superstitious sense at all. I believe that what we call luck is merely being in harmony with the great and good forces of nature. When we are un lucky we have, perhaps through no fault of our own, run counter to nature's harmonies. As dress is so much a part of modern life, and as upon our appearances depend so many things, so one should study most care fully the relations between one's own self and dress, so that no harmony may be overlooked and the dress be come consequently unlucky. One should always have full command over one's self. Most important, one should be able to impress upon others the fact that one Is in full command.' 'just as a r": little illustra Missed His Cue, JUST recently, at a whist drive held late In the season. Miss Antique uappened against young Jack Smith, and clung to him like a leech. By and by, during a temporary lull In the proceedings, she approached him coyly. "Oh. Mr. Smith," she said, "last night I had guch a delightful dream! I positively dreamt that you and I only "you and L mind were traveling on our honeymon. Do you ever have dreams like that Mr. Smlthr The young man considered for a sec ond before deciding- upon his reply. Then he spoke up. "I am afraid I used to. Miss An tique," he answered. "But now. Mr. Smlthr she Insisted. "Now I am more careful over tr.y uppers," he chuckled, "and am not Subject to nightmare any longer!" Gordon Discusses the Effect of Har monious Dress on Fortune, and De scribes Some New Gowns clothes and with a waistcoat of most Intense reds and greens and with a glaring necktie. He would find, nine cases out of ten, that his deal was not successful. He would be apt to blame it upon his bad luck. I should blame it upon the disharmony of his waistcoat and neck tie, and their effect upon tne minds of the men to whom he talked. " Luck is, after all, simply having things happen to us which we want to have happen, and which are pleasant. Bad luck Is our being thwarted in things we want to have happen to us, and having things happen to us that are unpleasant and which we do not want. In this modern world no one can stand entirely by one's self. There are all sorts of points of contact with our fel lows, and the sum total of these points of contact make up our life. Particularly Is woman, who, after all, must depend more upon her appearances than upon anything else, susceptible to these influences. Her good luck 'comes mainly from others. So, too( her bad luck. It, therefore, behooves het if be so in harmony with herself that none of those dissonances we call bad luck can creep in. tion: Imagine' a business man who is about i td discuss a serious deal involving mil lions and ono with far-reach- j ing conse quences. He must discuss this deal with i half a dozen men whom he must impress with his good sound business judgment and a ILivil Viliolu. Suppose that man appears at the meeting in black outer Copyright, 1912. UCKY D &mff -m f?V r f Sjp v Y :f I ' ' fJ t ,r, f , "A "Lucila" Gardev Party Dress with P.lubT'Pmk TaffeU Overdress. The Wire-Edged Collar Is : One of tre .4ewst Notes in Summmp Mod by American-Examiner. Great Britain RESU v-k I Wllt! rf gtl'1 m w Lady Duff-Gordon. She may be all avottness and iife and gentleness in herself, but, if she clothes herself in a raiment . that negatives a.'.d destroys these pood points, of what use are they to her? She wJl attract bad luck as the lightnlng-rol attracts the lightning. But, if she clothes her self In full harmony with herself, she is apt to have only good luck. ' hereforo, I want to say to you again, as I have said so many times, study yourself. Do not be carried away by foolish fads and fancies. Pick out the line of dress that are best for you and the col ors that suit you best. If all the , world were wearing red, do not v you wear it unless rfd is your color. I am . . ndiug you this week pho tographs of two of ray latest -creations. The walking gown is of natural color tossore. I have christened it the 'Kismet" gown. The skirt is quite plain with the overskirt caught up at the back, showing th efacing of dark Chi neseblue . The front of the bodice Is heav ily embroidered in self-colored silk in Oriental designs. The long loose coat Is just fastened below the waist with a single button. A red satin Turkish cap with a long black and red tassel falling f over the . side completes the cos fume. . . ,'::, The other picture shows a fine white lace garden party dress with overdress of palish pink taffeta. The bodice is entirely of lace with tiny puff sleeves of same with long net cuffs to the wrist. The col lar is of the newest mode being , of lace with wire around the edge to make it stand up. The front of the bodice is held across with a fastening 6f silk taffeta of same. A bunch of green chiffon and tis sue flowers tucked into the belt at the side adds the necessary touch of color. A novelty which nas achieved instant popularity is the "Robes pierre collar a close connec tion of the "Byron,"- and like this shape providing a most becoming frame for the back of the neck, while the front is left quite free by the down-turned softness of white lawu. The V-shaped opening suits most peo ple wonderfully well much better than the round, in fact and alto gether I am heartLy in favor of this new form of neckwear, as it should make it possible for every woman to discard the high collar-bands, which are not only disfiguring to so many, but actually injurious to all. For I admit that If the throat is to be shown all round, it should be of the rounded whiteness, which Is, alas the privilege of youth and youth alone, so that many older women have not dared to adopt the ordinary down-turned collar, much as they would have wished to do so. But now the "Robespierre" collur solves the difficulty for tbcra, and if they will take advantage of it they can also take years off their age! The "Byron" model, being more deeply down-turned, will be better suited to those more youthful and attractive necks, though even this affords more protection at the back than the other shapes, which gave "first aid" to the suffereres from the high collar-band! J Other and larger collars, which are! draped to complete coats and. wraps,! are in their latest and prettiest de velopments, combining Bohemian luce and finely hand-embroidered cambric, while point de enUe lace is solely and smartly responsible for other such decorative additions. Some of the shapes and, in- fact, most of them form a very deep point, reach ing to the waist-line at the back, but whether they are there rounded, or pointed, or square, they are almost all alike in being of exceedingly modest and tapering size In front. There is, indeed, a veritable rage for lace and broideries of all kinds, and some very effective combinations of black and ecru or ochre shadings ure notable, the black usually supplying the foundation of net and the color coming into evidence as a border, and being either in guipure trellis work or Bohemain style lace. An other feature of the season's trim mings In this particular connection is the variety of narrow edgirgs, some designed for the finishing of lingerie dresses being of white lawn, outlined with embroidery beads, while others in net are combined wfth very fine baby Irish lace and some narrow guipures are In their turn further beautified with tasxel fringe and a fine plcot top! Fringe festoons and ball fringes there are, too; whose entire width Is only about half an Inch, while the intro duction of fringe on wider laces has also been tried with very good effect Rights Reserved. No. 177-Straighten and Strengthen Your Back By Mme. Lina Cavalieri, the Most Famous Living Beauty MME. LINA CAVALIERI tells her readers to-day how to acquire a graceful and at tractive figure. She does so in her usual practical and instructive way. The back is, so to speak, the basis of the figure, and she gives sound and helpful advice as to how to make and keep the back strong enough to bear its burdens. and maintain a graceful carriage. By Mme. Una Cavalieri. I ALWAYS Judge a woman'B back by her carriage. If the mus cles of her back are weak their weakness displays itself in her bearing. Women fancy that a weak back is the heritage of their sex. They fancy that aches and pains in that region are inevitable. In this they are mistaken. The back may be rebuilded and strengthened as can other weak spots. Discreet' expr cises are the best aid in that de ferable direction. For children who are growing round shouldered, Bhoulder braces are, for a time, beneficial, for they train the muscles to erectnoss. When this training has been ac complished the braces should be re moved and the child required to practice the carriage the brace has taught him. But for a grown per son I never advise braces except as a last resort in a desperate case, and particularly in cases of lung affections, to require the person to inhale fresh air. We cften receive the advice, "Rest your back to stop its ach ing." This is sound advice in cases of extreme fatigue, but generally "Lifting moderate weights from the floor ia a good exercise for strength ening the back." 1 I BEAUTY QUESTIONS ANSWERED M. M. asks me to repeat the for mula for Dr. Vaucaire's bust de veloping lotion, "which I have tried and found a wonderful remedy," she writes, "but the stupid druggist has lost the formula." I suppose you refer to this: Simple syrup: 40 grams. Tincture of fennel: 10 grams. Liquid extract of galega (goat's rue) 10 grams. Lacto phosphate of lime: 10 grams. This is a tonic Dr. Vaucaire pre scribed for some thin, nervous women to encourage them to eat enough to nourish them and cause them to take on plumpness: Tincture of nux vomica: 3 grams. Tincture of rhubarb: 2 grama. Tincture of ttar anise: 3 grams. A, dose of tlx to ten drops of this may be taken In a tpoonful of water before each meal. G. M. says: "I have read your beauty articles for a long time and have been greatly benefited by them. 'I would like to know what will make the hair grow. Mine is short and thin. It seems dead. Also will you please write me what will develop the bust?" ram m Mme. Lina Cavalieri the best way to rest the back is to strengthen it, and the way to strengthen it is by well directed, but not violent, exercises. Every mutclo in the body It there for tome use. Everyone should have enough exercise to keep it healthy. Th muscles of the back are weak because they are so sel dom used. The best exercises for develop ment of these neglected muscles are those which involve stooping.' Spoiled, pamporsd beauties test them&elves by stooping, and if they can touch the floor with their finger tips, without bending the knees, they pronounce themselves At. Wo men less spoiled and pampered have far less anxiety about keeping fit. Their everyday work requires enough stooping to keep the mus cles of the back flexible and the muscles of the abdomen firm, and of normal size. Lifting moderate weights from the floor Is a good exercise for strengthening the back. If the back be very weak it Is well to be gin with an empty bucket. As ex-' erclses strengthen It gradually fill the pall. A basket with a handle may serve the same purpose. Stoop slowly, and slowly lift tho weight. Keep the leg muscles tens and make the muscles of tha arms tense. Resell slowly forward and lift the weight with both hands. Lift It on a level with the waist line. Then lower It, as slowly, to the floor. Next to stooping, twisting the muscles of the back are a good exercise for strengthening it. But let this twisting be slowly and gently done, or this will be one of the Instances In which the remedy is worse than the disease. Violent exercise will only make the muscles weaker and cause a more severe ache, and possibly a severe Injury, by wrenching them. This la the best method for the twisting. Lift the arms slowly sbove the head, with the elbows unbent. Then slowly turn the body to the right, retting Its weight on the left leg. Swing the body around, keeping the arms above the head but shifting the weight to the right leg. Thit It a most val uable exercise, for It contortt the muscles, causes a supply of blood to flow through them and by the unusual action they gain ttrength. The Bame exercise as the fore going can be advantageously dons with the arms stretched out hori zontally before you, and swinging them in a large half circle, being careful to shift the weight from one leg to the other and keeping tense the muscles of the legs on which the weight reBts. At a rule round ahoulders are the sign of weakened muscles. Or the appearance cf round shoulders may be given by a too great accumula tion of fat across the shoulders. A good exercise to correct this Is Probably you are aenemic and require a general rebuilding of the system. The hair is a barometer that shows speedily the state of health and the quantity of strength. It sympathizes instantly with any lowering of the vitality. If yon will sleep more, bo at more pains to choosey nourishing food, chew your food until it is like milk In the mouth, exercise enough to cause your blood to circulate well, you should in a few weeks or months note an improvement in the condi tion of your hair. Meanwhile, mas sage your scalp every night, rub bing vaseline or lanollne Into it one night, and good tonic into It the next. Tbi- la such a tonic: OH of mace, 1 oz. Alcohol, 1 oz. This is also a popular formula: Glycerine, 1 ox. Spirits of lavendar, 1 oz. Tincture of Matany, X2 drams. Tincture of cantharldes, V2 drama. ; Quinine tulphate, 15 grains. Enough alcohol to make the whole a 12-ounce mixture. Letting the hair hang about tha a simple squaring of the shoulders, drawing In at the tame time lungs full of air. Push back your arms to that the forearms are on a level . with the waist and the elbowt are pushed at far back at possible. By a gently tawing motion move tha elbows forward aid back. This ' cautes a rush of blood to the mus cles surrounding the shoulders, and nourishes the musclet which you are exercising and banishes the fat cells. 'To banish- fat from the back draw the arms back at I have detcribed Thrust between the back and eh bowt a stout cans or a broomttlck. Manipulate the cane by meant of the elbows to that the musclet ara not only strengthened but the cane It rolled over the flethi The effect It to break the fat cells. This It tometimet more easily done If you hold the cans In a diag onal position. Useful to the tame end It the exercise of sitting erect in a chal and' exaggeratedly shrugging the shoulders, first one, then the other, then both together,,- Work .with light dumbbel't will also In time reduce the fat of the back, but 1 countel the ute of light clubt and these In moderation. Standing erect, the feet retting flatly on the floor and the kneea un bending, raise the dumbbells slowly above the head without bending the elbowt. At slowly lower them until the armt hang lootely at the tides. If you notice that one shoulder It higher than the other, give heed to your hips. The hip on the other tide It probably thrutt up and the shoulder on that tide tlnkt, the shoulder on the opposite tide rising to balance it. So If one shoulder It high, correct your way of stand ing. Stand with the weight evenly divided and rest on the balls of your feet. Your thouldert will drop naturally Into place.' Keep them In place. "Twisting the muscles of he back by gentle exercises strengthens them." lit) 7- C$ thouldert hat value, both because the alight pull upon the roots Is a kind of exercise for the roots, and for ventilation. The hair being "done up" all day, the scalp auf fert from lack of air and sunlight, both good hair growert. I need scarcely say that the hair should be well brushed at night before re tiring, and that long hair should be lootely braided, the ends being left free. To develop the bust, improve the general health. . Also take deep breathing exercises, such as I have many times described, several times a day, choosing a place where the air is purest In a largo city the roof is the best place. "Does a face powder harm your face if washed off at night?" Is her concluding question. Purs rice powder can do no harm If removed at night with cold cream. Washing tho face with wa ter does not so effectually remove powder. Take the powder off with cold cream, which mixes better with It. Then cleanse the face with warm water and almond meal or oatmeal, or If you prefer It, with teap. V