The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
Copyright, 1011, by American-Examiner. Great Britain nishu Jteserved.
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Wgrf from
Jrartjp, T feu.. i fe-Ai
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of ' 4a ' j t HV 1 V: J I
London, and foremost creator of fashions in the j I f f '" '' f
world, write each week- the fashion, article 'for this f , )' - f ? ' t
newspaper, presenting all that it newest and best in styles ! ' - ?V. " " - ; ; " ' , , I
for well-dres.,ed women.. , '. ' I , ; ' .-. . i . -- x ' "'' " ' ( 5 1 I
Lady Duff-Gordon's new, Paria establishment brings f 1 ', ' I jr 1 - ' s: .
her into dose touch with that centre of fashion. Y ! V j K ' ' h ' 2'.' I,
Lady Duff-Gordon's American esUllislunent is at No. S t ' ? - ' M"'' '
17 West Thirty-sixth street. New York. 1 A ,j ' , J. Ml 1 !
By Lady Duff-Gordon
("Lucile")
Tarli, Dee. 22.
THIS Is going to beva little talk
upon advanced Winter style.
But first let me describe this
newest cvenlnjr gown, my very lat
est and, I tblnk, one of njy mont
beanttful creations. It Is frpbu from
my Tarls tRbllshment whero I do
igned It. '-
It is all in pale blun satin trim
med with rx-arls and tiny llHnioR
Tlie two front pnnela ext'Pd frrnn
the bodice to the edge of the hklrt.
At the back the panels finish half
way down. ' " "
The skirt opens Kllghtly at the
Ide showing an elaborate chiffon
and lace petticoat trlmnW with
wreaths of stnnll flowers. The bot
tom of the skirt Is embroidered In
an Egyptian pattern in silk, and
pearls introducing a Sphynx's head
and ia finished with strings of pearls
over the soft petticoat. . .
A touch of color la Introduced at
the waist with two shudos of soft
orchid sat In folded around.
I think It rery pretty. I like
partlculurly the effect of the panel
nd the blending of the Oriental line
and suggestion with what one may
A Fringed Coat One of the
of the Fashion.
call the Farlalau line and sugges
tion. And here are two or three little
Vlitures of rather odd little dreKacs
aud furs snapped on the Hols. One
la o.uite pretty and shows to what
eitenJ the fringe Is Htlll Velug used.
I'm not very partial to fringe e
cept when it is uxed economically
and Lere and there unobtrusively. It
lacks grace usually and has such u
cut up look. Oihs can't. g"t Brace-"
fuj lines and sweeps with It. I
don't think it Is good taste to use
it as the main motif of a dress. It
is after all so rag taggy. To make
fringe the prime motif f a cotume,
the rainon d'etre aa It were, itt much
like making the original flg leaf the
baste of a eoMttime. Or making, say
a Chilton chftw for the sole pur
pose of surrounding the hole. It
lun't a fabric. It'a Just a decoration
and unless we want to be FIJI Is
lander In our ways or dressing we
should be so terribly sparing and
careful of decoratlou. I'm really
quite glad to wh! the fringe gradu
ally getting less and less.
Of this other dress I have simply
nothlug so say. But being a woman
1 must aay that it is ngard.-d as
quite smartly Parisian and to my
wind is everything a drew shouldn't
be. U'hen will women leoru that
divsses are made for them, to en
hance a beanty to cover a defect;
that dresses are not uniforms that
they have to put on simply because
mne dressmaker or other arbltrsrliy
decides that such and such a group
ing f materials is the "fashion."
I think the ermine furs are very
pretty and tbat'e why I show tbem
to ou. , They're uot artli ularly
new. The,y are one of the big. big
6er, blgcest that are storming
women's hearts this ccmboq and that
will keep ou getting big, bigger,
blset until the very limit of Ll-
0 - ; u
This is .
the
Evening
Gown
Udy
Duff -Gordon
. Has
Named
"Dawn
in the
Desert."
Blue Satin,
Panelled
with
Egyptian
Embroideries.
marhl V..t
at this Is. don't ask
y. The strength of
women Wearing
them, most probably.-
The latest French de
cree of fashion ordains
when the new . hat Is
bought there must alao
be acquired a stole, muff
and bag all to match,
and all destined to be
its Inseparable compan
ions during its season's
career!
The new fashion has
the sanction of, and is,
in fact. Introduced by no
less powerful a person
age than the famous
raan-mllllner, Monsieur
Lewis, of Paris and Lon
don, to whose creations
I would were I a man
take off my hat
But, Indeed, and In all
seriousness, I want to
make you acquainted
with soma of his new
models, for they . are al
together delightful, and,
If you will make a care
ful study of these de
tails, you will know all
the. most Important facts
and fashions In connec
tion with the Winter
millinery.
And. first, concerning
those special sets, many
of them are carried out
in the plush . which. Is
now enjoying a new
Last
tease or me and popul.r
lty; its special soft
ness of texture ' and
tone being, perhaps, seen ut its
best In black as in the hat of the
picture, where it makes a most ef
fective background for a very long
ostrich feather, which shades
through cloud gray to a duwu-pink,
A Charming Set of Ermine
On the Dois.
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L' IU .'if t ' H II I f , if f
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so delicate that Its eventual trans
ition to white Is hardlr noticeable.
The stole, of the same plush. Is all
edged with black fox, and further,
at the ends, broldered In silk cord
and soutache, while a deep lachet
fringe shows beneath the fur, the
great, flatly-hanging muff giving
the greater prominence to the'
braiding. It Is all vastly becoming
and decorative. While then to
leave the sets for a moment and
deal with some Individual and
smart hatsanother- black plush
model of still more extensive size,
is outwardly adorned with a big,
deftlj-Iooped bow of opossum fur,
while underneath the bold, upward
sweep of the brim at the left side
there nestles Just above the ear
one big and beautiful rose, whose
outer petals are silver and pink
tissue, and whose Innermost heart
is all of gold. This is quite a nov
elty; while then, though perhaps
more ordinary, there is still much
smartness In a third black plush
hat whose wide brim is practically
covered by a deep soft fringe of
Lancered ostrich plumes, whose
snowy 'whiteness is tipped with
black; the only other trimming be
ing a great primly folded cockade
rosette of black satin.
There are several other sets In
tuffetas a fabric whowo picturesque
possibilities seem likely to be fully
recognized during the next season,
one quite bewitching and bonnet
like . creation being of black silk,
the outstanding fulness of tho
crown eventually held in by many
rows of gauging, while then, the
resulting clone frame for the face
Is sortened by a ruchlng of pinked
out silk and a narrow band of
skunk fur. Finally, to give a touch
of color, there is fastened at th
left side a bunch of all ribbon rose
in blue and pink, guarded by foil
age In an equally delicate shade of
green, another and bigger bouquet
fastenlug the Talermo shaped scarf
at the left aide. This further and
picturesque adjunct to the barlette
la also edged, with a ruchlng of
silk and a banding of fur, there
heinar added, too, an Inner and soft
frilling of filmy mellow-toned Ince
exactly the same scheme of adorn
ment being carried out in the muff.
' And now. next, I think I had bet
ter tell you about the little fu.
hats and caps which are as sea
sonably sensible as they are spe
cially smart, and which represent
the other extreme of atjle and site
to the .big . and .beplumed ban ol
plush and velvet.
Musquash Is the favorite fur
for their modelling, while the
trimming in this rase consists
of two little wings of tawny
.irapge. . shading, poised .Mercury
fashion, rather tho back at one
side, there being then arranged
in Irregular trails on. the- fur some
little, flowers and leaves, in flatly
folded Terry silk ribbon rose and
old gold, purple and blue and green.
It ia a pretty scheme, but per
haps even more efficient because
vivid violet velvet lines the dark
fur and comes against the hair Is
another closely fitting capoteof
seal musquash, which la Just trim
med with a single upstanding
pray of fox gloves, the full blown
flowers at the base and the little
bud tapering at the top, being all
worked outwardly In violet, and In
wardly in cardinal red wool. Tbeee
knitted wool flowers are the most
decorative things, and they appear
again as an encircling wreath ia
deep blue shadings contrasted with
the green of the leaves on a third
seal musquash- model,, whose satin
lining Is of the same bright and
beautiful blue.
And for the email-featured,
dainty little woman, there Is a
skull cap of seal musquash which
Is destined to be worn set closely
on the head at an acute angle,
XPl&s) ' '- k. ' S-t -iw:':";.'
In kmr , ni C
l rM w ' M ' W - m -nt X: 7 w X
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1
The Kingdoms
which Is ' accentuated by the ar
rangement of two golden yellow
wings, one or which; at the right
side, curves no row , down that Its
tip almost touch the neck, while
on the left the other wing points
upwards. , -
But truly, there Is Infinite variety
of style and shape and size to help
But No Funnier Than Any
and Each One a Perfectly
A
T first sight these photographs
of four African monarchs
may. not' Impress you very
favorably. Nevertheless they aoux
ately portray a quartette of per
fectly good kings to all practical
intents and purpose .quite as good
as any other kings anywhere.
The kingdom of each of them is
eltuated on cno or the other bank
of the Aouhourimi River, a region
so far out of the beaten track of
African tourist travel that even the
diligent Baedeker has yet to include
their names and posts office ad
dresses in his valuable-guide.- - - -
Although the realms of these
of All Four of These African Kings Are on the Banks of the
Zacy DuffGdrdon
Tells of the Biggest
Sets of Furs, the Ever
Widening Hats and
the fiew
Separate
SeUopFurs
for Every
Hat Fad
every one to be well suited. Still
another aspect of the Winter hat
being that low-crowned, wide
brimmed creation of white beaver
felt underlined with black velvet,
whose most distinctive feature Is
the novel arrangement of the great
black brush aigrettes, tipped with
white. For these are laid, like two
great bow ends along the left side,
two little ermine skins being loop
ed in the centre, each one com
plete with head and tails. This is
an admirable . example of the
"magpie" schemes which are being
so much favored, but possibly some
of you may prefer a hat whose
nuaint shape is somewhat sugges
tive of a eugar-loaf, the black
beaver being turned up In a high
point to show a brightness of gold
tissue embroidered with emerald
green bugles and all edged with .
skunk, while surmounting the point
is a white cockade. Or then, still "
more gorgeous In its color scheme,
Is a-black beaver hat lined with
black velvet and almost hidden be
neath cardinal -purple ; plumage,
while reposing on one side Is a
cockatoo head in - vivid eerlse. An
other hat, on . the contrary. Is Just ,
a soft foam of black ostrich feath
ers with a- big - aigrette to . give
height to, one . side. . while then,
rather suggestive ' of Riviera sun
shine, Is a hat-formed of many en
circling and graduated pleatlngs of
lilac-colored ellk -each edged with a
soft little . fringe, while, fastened at
one side, with the apparent care
lessness, of the-greatest art, there
are two bunches of velvet-petalled
roses, buds and leaves., which bring
kings are contiguous, and watered
by the same ' river, ' It will be ob
served that no two of the royal cos
tumes resemble each other in -the
slightest ' degree. The royal robes
of one of them conveys a first Im
pression that -this king is a queen.
But. you forget that the long,
draped robe was originally a mascu
line garment. . and, variously de-'
signed and decorated, is still a feat
ure of the costume of enlightened
monarchs on state occasions. At
tired ash he j, this king is clearly
within his rights.
In the three other Instances you
will note a cheerful kingly tendency,
in the matter of toetume, to accom-
. .-V"? ""i :s'
A Parisian Dress Lady Duff-Gor.
don Thinks Quite Horrid.
together half' a dozen delicate
"shades of pink and mauve.
Other very smart bats there are
whose brims are of gathered and
corded taffetas, and whose crowns
are either covered with a complete
sable or ermine skin, or a wreath
of little roses- or violets, while I
am glad to note, too, that the ribbon-trimmed
hat is still in evidence,
for it is always serviceable, and
when its bows are deftly looped
and show an inch of contrasting
color it is distinctly- smart. And
now from all these very different
but equally .. desirable . atyles, you
will surely be able to make an en-,
tlrely successful choice of your
new Winter hats, and toques and
caps to say. nothing of stotes and
muffs. .
Other Kings,
Good King.
modate necessity to opportunity.
One king has plainly profited by the
late German activity In his neigh
borhood. It is equally evident, that this
king s royal neighbor, In cpstume
from the waist up, is Influenced by
Moorish Ideas.
Do not make the mistake of too
hastily Judging the king whose um
brella, black frock coat and Oscar
Hammersteln high hat seen so out
of focus with extremities bare from
the knees down. ; ' . .
Besides, those are not suspenders
which His Majesty wears crossed on
the ebony of hla bare Chest. They
are ribbons of bis royal order.
Aouhourimi River