Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, November 12, 1911, EDITORIAL, Image 20

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    The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page
Copyright, mil. by Amerlcan-Eiaminer. Oreat Britain Rights Reserved.
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The Two Extremes
of This Season's
Gowns And
the Vogue of
the Graceful
Scarf.
A Striking Fall Costume of
Crown and Black Striped Zibe
line, with , Collar of Fox Skin
and Huge Revere of White
Satin and Black Velvet
"Lucile" Model.
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lu
cile" of London and foremost creator of
fashions in the woilJ, writes each week the
fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that
is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women.
Lady -Duff-Gordon'a new Pari$' establishment
brings her into close touch with that centre cf
fashion.
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment it
at No. 1 7 West Thirty-sixth street, New York.
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V TJ x n U f J Va r U Crocade.
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'''yvvi Gowns And 0-..-. ' '. v5' v A
Rose h A . V
Ratine I K" ffjp. r . I S 1
Sacque X. 7 V U ' ' , V ; --3.
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W- v-U ;, . ;:- Lady -Duff-Gordon . new Paris' establishment . p ; . l I ) : TJ .V V ' . i
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X Another Lovely "Lucile" Cre- I' V , " . j I,,? Vi ' '
ation of White Satin with V - " , x " ' - - f
Lovely Pearl and Passementerie Trim- ) V', , j ',V 1 K
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By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile")
FASHION this leasoo. as all the
signs point out more and more
plainly, indulges tn two ex
tremes. In gowns the vonno la as
much (or the simple as for the sen
sational. For the present the
"golden mean," often so highly reo
ommended, is disregarded.
A typical "Lucile" costume for the
Fall is hers shown. It consists Ot a
gown ot old rose ratine and marqul
sTTaand & llttlo coat of the former
fabric, whose straight cut sl'll con
trives to show all the pretty curves,
of shoulders and bust. Its simple,
tsperlng lspel of blaik sattn sots
oS aqually well the vivid coloring of
the cloth and the softness of the
dead' mauve velvet, which Is ar
ranged as a combined collar and tie,
its enda lntrodueinu the further con
trast of Uuy orange embroidered
in Indian red.
The skirt has a plain panel back
and wrap-over front, and some few
inches below the waUt the ratine
gives place to marquisette and takes
a merely secondary position as
curved hip bauds and uliuu'ider
strap on the hinder fabric, whoso
sleeve draperies are continued Into
something ot fU'bu fjiui ft the back.
Another simpler but 1 think equal
ly charming cteatlou is infilled by
those earlU-et among buds of Ula:
wbos? delicate uu.ive is . faintly
flubbed with, pink -while Just a touch
or two c' real rose here is Intro
duced by drawing out tiny pedal
like loops of satlu and this inusnej
ix'trl broldeiles on cortuu und
sleeves and then again by Introduc
ing a central fold ot satlu lutJ the
Silken waist band. '
And all this, you must know, tins,
for background, the most delicately
elusive blue vhariueuse wuoge
pearl-edged . foJJs open at the left
Bids over s petticoat of fletib-pluk
tilnon and luee -and then button at
the back, and la. the front era bord
ered in countletss strings of pearls. -An
entire (uxskin the beautiful
ly soft black Alatks variety is laid
about the nei-k and shoulders of the
very original coat of brown tlbeline.
narrowly striped with black, it be
ing further distinguished, too, by a
huge single rever of wb:te satin,
brocaded with a boldly raised device
in black velvet. A big scroll formed
of entwined eonllnrs snd pipings of
the zlbeline and black velvet and
studded w:th sundry little velvet
buttons fastens It far over at the
left side; and directly in line with
this novel ornament come two oth
ers, which catch the wrap-over tunlo
together above an underskirt, whose
slight fulness is held In closely about
the ankles by a bordering ot the
velvet.
Another photograph shows one ot
the many In fart, almost endless
possibilities of the scarf which this
season is ot such increased length
and loveliness that it Is quite quali
fied tn do dutf as an evening wrap,
or, again, to transform the simplest
satin or silk slips into an exquisite
tea or dinner gown.
A bordering of fur to the one side
makes an effective foil for the misty
transparency of the black chiffon,
and, equally, for the hand-embroidery
many-colored as Joseph's fa
mous cout which is so closely
wrought on the rtlmy fabric ot Its
background as to lend It the texture
and the shimmering richness ot silk.
Kevertlng to "simplicity," if you
want your dishabille to be of the
daintiest and most alluring (as such
unceremonious attire should always
be, else it is fatally apt to degoner
erate into slackness" and untidiness)
make note of a little s.lp of an un
derdress of, flesh pink charmeuso.
which Is, on the corsage, cut quite
law as In an evening gown, so thst
only an elusive transparency of still
mor faintly pink .Inon veils the
ehould-rs and forms the short ktmo
na tl ev.'K. its soft folds being held
In under the bust by raised trails of
rose.-i, furmei of folded and shaded
pink rlbcn, with just a tender green
leaf here nnd there and. finally. In
the centre, an outspread bow appli
que in paU turquoUe-t'nted ribbon.
These flower trails follow and ac
centuate all the pretty curves of the
fl,-ure though for the marking ot
the actual waistband, a little lower
down. ! fiftr tired a' wide threading
of petal-p'nk ribbon beneath an In
sertion ot lace while then araln on
the skirt front, other festoons and
circlets of roue, with a central blue
bow, are broldered on the f.lmy pink
nlnon and its panel appliques of
lace. .
Another peep of b'uo comes
from the ribbon threading and bow
above the lare edg ng of the char
lueuse uuderdress. from which there
peep out sllkeit stocklnes and satin
slices as faintly pink and perfectly
plain and close-fitting as a second
skin. And over all, to make even
I All A-itAA
AfiAAA.
this delicate pink still more fa'ntly
suggestive by stealing some ot its
flush of color, there is a loose and
transparent kimono coat of white
nlnon and lace with two ornaments
of satin cordings, tasselled with silk
for the finishing. If
not the actual fas
tening ot the front
Add a little. lace tap, ou which
other tiny pink roses are wreathed
and until you have tried it you can
not Imagine bow piquant one ot
these demure little caps can be
and you have, complete, what is ad
mitted to be a very pretty picture-
And now, as to the "Sensation"
evening town.
I have modelled It in flesh-pink
charraeuse and nlnon, only where
the cling ng skirt opens at one side
have I Introduced some touches of
lace and broideries of crystal and
paste, using, too, a crescent of tiny
shaded silken flowers and
leaves to hold together the
opening folds of the chp.r
meuse, so that, the upj er
part being quite plain aiH
at the decolette merging
almost looks, at a little dis
tance, as it tho slim, lovely
body were only lightly
veiled by the tunic drap
eries ot pale emerald nlnon.
And countless other lines
of light and diamondb ra
diate outward and upward
from this central splendor,
the last rays reaching far down onto
the long, narrow train, which is ar
ranged to tall at one side, and Is
there outlined with silver lace, stud
dod with diamonds, its slight fulness
being eventually drawn into a
band ot massed diamonds, and fur
ther weighted by two b'.g tassels of
diamonds and crystals.
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It Is the Very Newest Thing
in Paris and They Tell
Your Fortune by It, Too.
Mile. Robinne, the Charming French Actress, Photo
graphed with Her Shadow.
Tads, Nov. C.
OW do you Co, and how's your
shadow?" Is the latest form of
friendly greeting among up-to-date
TarUIans.
It is the first time outside of Oriental roun
trltfi that a person's shadow has cut muth cf
a fUure r social relations, and the present
l'arli fail is not so much for your shadow
Itself sj for photographs ot it. To bo really
In the swim your photograph must contain
your shwiow alt-o. Accordingly, everybody U
askln? everybody else: "Have you had your
shBdow' photograph taken?'"
The idea b&s been seized by loading artists
cf the camera and insenlously developed with
results highly Interesting to their sitters and
profitable to themselves; for. unlike your
solid self, your sliudow may tako a hundred
dlferent and grotesque shapes, according to
the perspective in which it la cat and caiiht.
These possibilities of shadow photoprraphy
appear to have first occurred to the celebrated
actor. Sacha Uuliry, who is an Insatiable
searcher for novelty of an Interesting or
amuslntf kind. When Gu'.try circulated
amorz his frlenils pnotopraplis of himself In
different poses, each pose beln? accompanied
by Its shadow sometimes diminutive and
asalu enormously exaggerated from that
moment l'arli had a now reason for continu
ing to exist.
The almoet endless forms in which the sit
ter's shadow ruy be projected, and caught
by the camera, has caused Oultry to make
such photograph of a given person the basis
cf a system of fortune telling that 1 more,
startling in Its results than are the best ef
forts of those who foresee the future by
tucan of playing cards.
Jill
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A Favorite "Shadow Photograph" of Anne Perrjr,
of the Paris Stage.