THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEEs AUGUST 27. 1011.
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O K011HkS I HO
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ARIS. Special Correspondence AH the
great army of earnest seekers after fash
ions here 1n Paris are metaphorically sit
ting on the fence waiting to see which
way to jump. We have been told th
there are to be "radical and viol I
changes In styles," that the styles l
1912 will "be practcally tha same as ti.
being worn now." One dressmaker assures us that only
long waist lines will be seen, while another announces
that short waists have become so popular that nothing
can supplant them. Some are for long, tight sleeves,
while just as many others declare for those that are
loose and flowing.
Callot is authority for the positive statement that
everything In the coming modes is to be long In the
waist gowns, coats, blouses, etc. and that skirts will
be fuller, but only slightly so. As Callot Is not only
abreast of the styles, but really ahead of them, there
Is probably some truth attached to what they say, and
this is still further substantiated by what one sees.
Some of the latest frocks have their belts put at the '
normal waist line, a distinct departure after these many
seasons of mounted waists or no belts at all. This new
style Is especially noticeable In the little sleeveless
coats, which are now being worn with every sort of
gown, and which are really the greatest novelty of the
summer. These have been seen in silk, linen, and chiffon,
or net, and one and all show a trim belted figure, which
Is In marked contrast to every other coat or bodice to
which we are accustomed.
The prettiest of these coets fit closely and are made
either with long oval shaped armslxes, or else they are
pelerine shaped 'with nothing at all under the arm.
On the newest there Is a little cap on the shoulder,
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which extends dver the top of the sleeves, but if these
are not found to be becoming, then the shoulders are
left plain, the arm size being finished w It'll embroidery,
beads, or scallops.
With linen and lingerie gowns these coats are Im
mensely fashionable, and they are really a part of the
costume. One lingerie gown seen In the Bols recently
was pure white and quite plain, being made of English
embroidery with only Just a tiny bit of lace on the upper
part of the bodice. The coat which accompanied it waa
of rose silk In pelerine form, the trimming being only
on the bottom. This was a double puff with a tiny
frill above and another below. The puffs were made of
the silk and the frills of Valenciennes lace, the two
being divided by the narrowest width of black velvet.
About the neck, which was slightly low, was the same
trimming, while directly In front was a long double
jabot of wide lace. The woman who was wearing the
gown had a hat of pink tulle with a black velvet ribbon
tied about the crown and she was an adorable looking
object, as fresh and dainty as a rose.
Little net coats over striped summer silks are smart
and they are lovely, too. Some of them fasten up the
front with tiny black velvet buttons, or In some eases
with the lime buttons, but on the shoulders. About
the bottom these costs are soutached quite heavily, so
they keep in place and can be made to (It. Black net
over white and soutached in white Is fash:onable and
also these are more dressy than all white coats.
Striped silks are having a success all of their own
and thsy are seen in foulards, in light weight taffetas,
and in some that are much heavier. Red and white is
tha most popular combination, the stripes of these be
Uf generally narrow, the red or white predominating
as one likes. They are all simply made, some having
a little soutachlng, while others are combined with lace
or chiffon.
Although the weather Is as hot as possible we are
talking about muffs and boas and the ultra smart
women are carrying and wearing them. They are the
most darling affairs made of ribbon, and, of course,
have no warmth, but are only Intended to give a note
of color. A new model of a muff is very large and la
mads of wide ribbon, generally striped and three pieces
ewn together. One charming one was rose color and
gray atrlped, the brighter ahade predominating. This
was mounted over a foundation of chiffon, which left
ths muff as soft and pliable as possible. On the out
elds was a huge bow made of ribbon, with the ends
tacked to the four corners. ,
The boa was made of one width of ribbon, which
stood up about the throat, and another which lay flat,
and a puff between the two. There was a large chou
at one side, with long ends hanging from It, and when
It Is worn one end falls over the shoulder In the
back and the other In front
These sets are worn with lingerie frocks and with
serges In the daytime and at night with mo.e elaborate
eoatunUs of lace and chiffon for the evening. Some
times thsy are made to match a partloular costume, or
sometimes they are of a strongly contrasting color, and
these laat are much the prettiest. Thsy are one of
those little accessories which are so often seen here
and which are such an aid to one'a gown.
Oloves are out of fashion, even for evening wear, and
this has brought back the custom of wesrlng braes
!?.s. They ara being made in the pliable form, some
times set with stones and sometimes plain, but of sev
eral shades of gold. Wide ones are preferred, espe
cially when they are simply of gold, and some are
three-quarters or even an Inch in width.
In hats It Is certainly a season of contrasts, for with
the lightest of.gowns velvet hats are worn. These, too,
are somewhat heavy In shape, fitting as they do closely
with puffed crowns. Feathers trim most of them and
In these there Is no limit to beauty. In ostrich fea friers
those of the willow form are the most fashionable,
although many flat feathers are to be seen, these al
ways being laid flat on the brim, with possibly an
added rose of generous slxe, or a velvet chou. For
trimming the smaller velvet hats nothing but aigrettes
Is to be seen, and the loveliest of these have marabou
mingled with them. They cost a fortune, but equally
they wear well, may be cleansed a number of times,
and make over Indefinitely.
As always black tulle takes the leading place, but
there Is also a great vogue this summer for many
bright colors. Nattier blue tulle hats are charming
with white frocks, and ao ars thoss of soma of the
new shades of rose and the deeper tones of raspberry
and strawberry reds. Tellow, too, Is much worn, the
newest shade in this having a decided tinge of green;
In fact, almost a lemon tint. Most of these Corday
hats are trimmed with black taffeta ribbon, this being
twisted about the crowns and tied onoe In the back
without bows or ends.
As real veils cannot be worn with these fragile hats
most women are wearing squsres of tulle put entirely
over the crown of the hat and then, brought down and
fastened In the back. It requires skill to put these
Improvised veils on properly,. for, although it Is essen
tial that they must hold ths frills of the hat and ths
hair In place, equally they muat be so loosely adjusted
that they give the Impression of being thrown care
lessly ever.
The best method is to take the front of the square
which hangs over the face and fold It several times
under the chin, after which It ahould be drawn back
and securely pinned mt the back of the neck. The sides
are then brought up, the points bslng tied, but only
once, and each end Is then tucked away under the roll
of ribbon encircling the crown. The back of the square
la only allowed to cover the crown of the hat, and
It should bs pulled out and distributed as much about
the crown as it csn. Pins must be generously employed,
but they can be hidden under folds 6r frills so cleverly
that they cannot be seen.
Black tulle Is ths favorite for wearing with these
hats, but women whose complexions will permit of It
also wear tulle veils to match, even In brilliant shades.
Satin bags hive stunning motives mounted on to them,
or they will show the monogram and coat of arms of
the owner done In stuffed gold and silk. The tinsel
cloths sre worked and then veiled in heavy chiffon, or
the inside is left plain and the veiling is accomplished
with stsmped chiffon or net. These bags are quite as
handsome ss can bs purchssed in any establish roent.
for they ars always made up with beautiful clasps and
heavy cords, and thsy have the advantage of being out
of the ordinary and of original designs. ,