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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (May 29, 1910)
THE OMAHA SUNDAY . IJKE: MAY 29. 1010. r HDRESSMAMEM. 1 M. MINTS FOR THE H -0 I '-'lie., r MJC '.SSW 'Mr'" -1811 I MARY BUED ARIS- Special Correspondence. The com". PI blnation of glorious weather, a big money I prize as well aa a superb prize in silver I from the president of the republic, brought out such a gathering of exquis itely dreased women at the races at Au teuil recently as seldom If ever before haa been seen at this season. It was a constant procession of modes from one great estab lishment and another. It was the Rue de la Palx trans ferred to different surroundings and ten times more attractive, for each costume had its necessary equip ment of hat, parasol, veil, shoes, and gloves, and its proper environment of greensward and brilliant sun shine. Every model which has been created, both In gowns and hats, done in every known shade, and many that were new and startling, were to be seen, and the spectacle was so varied and kaleidoscopic that one be came almost bewildered with the looking. - Strangely enough, some of the black gowns were the , most noticeable, possibly because of the contrast they made to others. At any rate, the women whose frocks were somber hued stood out conspicuously and attract ed general attention. Naturally they represented the latest touch In the way of faalrlon and were carried out with absolute perfection as to all details; equally many , of them were simplicity Itself, their entire cachet do- , pending upon the cut and finish. One costume of black satin and satin or taffeta coats and aklrts, by the way, will be the particular costume of late spring1 was made with the usual narrow skirt veiled from the knees up with chiffon, also black". What could be seen of the bodice waa of chiffon. Into which ' we introduced a little fine old yellow lace in' the form of a collar and long tab shaped pieces in front The coat was short and box shaped in the back, b.;. with a slightly fitted front which fastened far over on the left side under long rolling revere. These began below the shoulders and were met on either side by a deep collar of fine embroidered batiste and lace. The sleeves of the coat were small, but nearly as large Just above the wrist, where they ended, aa above, and their 'finish was cuffs, almost to the elbow, to match the col lar. With this severely plain gown was worn a hat of enormous proportions, rather low in the crown, and with a brim that showed a deoided roll on its left side. This was faced with black satin to within three inches of its edge, and from this facing came a narrow but ' full ruohe of white lace. On the upturned brim was'a stiff little satin bow put on at an angle. This was the only bit of trimming oh the hat, the crown being abso lutely without ornament, except for two beautiful pits which fastened it on either side. To finish the costume there was a stole about the neck of the wearer which was a new departure in the way of neckwear. This waa of black satin, soft and supple, and fully two yards and a half long. The ends were rounded and were caught some twelve Inches from the bottom with small black passementerie ornaments which drew the scarf in slightly. It was lined with a deep shade of orange satin and was worn wound about the neck with one end thrown back over the left shoul der and the other hanging in front. Another coat and skirt of black was made of a sort of moire with a satin finish. The skirt was made with a broad hem and a simulated tuck all of the same ma terial, rather a novelty In the days of many combina tions. The coat was plain with the same Idea of a band about the lower edge, while finishing It about the Jiejk was a deep sailor collar and long revers of black foulard, upon which appeared huge white dots. Th cuffs were the same and the buttons also were of black and white. With this frock wns worn a blouse of the new shade of rough ponceau," a perfectly stunning shade of red which is neither geranium nor cerise, but something between the two, and the hat, which was broad brimmed, was of white chip lined in black and trimmed with a band of the same wonderful shade of velvet ribbon and a monster buckle of black passementerie. l I saw many taffeta costumes In black, dark blue, and changeable, but although they were all made more or less In the same style, those of black seemed, for some reason or other, to be smarter. An excellent model, which one recognised immediately as coming from the workroom of Bechoff-Davld. had a skirt which was scant and little gored, there being almost as much fullness about the waist as at the lower edge. Hera it waa finished by a double puff of taffeta. Hanging from the waist line in front waa an extra piece of the material, which looked precisely like a long apron, full and straight. This was plain across the hem, but where it was attached to the underskirt there were long three corner shaped pieces of dull blue silk caught with flat steel buttons. The coat of this suit was a llUle apology of an affair, short, with kimono sleeves and unllned. Puffing trimmed it and on the fronts appeared the same three cornered pieces of silk and steel buttons. Some of the changeable frocks are as quaint and picturesque looking as can be Imagined, for the coloring of them Is invariably charming, and they have an in dividuality. They are little trimmed, for the simpler their style the prettier they are, but on all one sees either puffings or ruchlngs. Many of these last are made of ribbon in which the two shades or rather col ors of silk reappear, the edge of ona and centers of the other. The effect of this when ruched Is charming. ' . In colored costumes blue is preeminently the shade of the season, and in all tones from the darkest of night blue, through the changes of nattier, tapestry, royal blue of France to a lovely shade called "king's eye." which Is this year's contribution In blue, I saw a gown of this particular shade or. Sunday, the skirt and coat of which were made of satin, the former being bordered with a wide shaped flounce of the same tint in broad cloth. The coat was a period one. In Voum XVI.. style, being quite plain and short walsted. with a rounded collar and wide lapels which turned back as far aa tha 0Y si 1 A r 1 -' t .: 1 V ft? Gown of RoseColovea Chxffoninth Bordered $ei$n Wkiixe,. Ttls Mbtnted over Black cizz a izs FLcatirif s ofFxr Black lace the Flounces. The Bodice and Vrvex shoulders. Both of these and the lining as woll were of striped silk, white with broad bands of the same shade of blue. In addition there waa one of the delightful little new waistcoats made of the same, buttoned plainly down the front wlfh a single row of steel ball buttons. These same buttons were used to fasten the coat and on the ends of the short black ribbed silk belt, which extend ed only across the back seams. It waa an enormously smart and most becoming costume. . Theae waistcoats, which were introduced by Drecoll, are quite a feature of many of the tailored suits, wheth. er they are of cloth, satin, or foulard. They are made to be aa dashing as possible and are generally of some striking contrast. The material may be of anything, striped silk, gorgeous brocade, or bright colored linen. They differ from most waistcoats inasmuch as they are provided with backs and sleeves, which make it possible for them to be worn without the coat, or to put it more clearly, the coat may be removed at pleasure and the wearer of theae little garments will then pre sent the trimmest appearance possible. They fit absolutely tight, button down the front, and v V - 5i m '3$ is: - 4 -.V mi n S3 Ft 1 ANd. ' is. "V EM.' V S2 i4 :V. '..V '1 .,Sfe some are finished In the back with funny little fan tail plaitlnga not more than five or six Inches long. They drees up a plain costume In a way that Is most sur prising and it is perfectly safe to say that they will form a part of half the linen and pique frocks for summer. Foulard gowns have taken their place aa one of tin necessary costumes of the- season. Everybody haa ono . and the manner of making them differs almost as much as do the designs. One pretty model that I have een was made like a princess with kimono sleeves, which gave a loooe. baggy look at the waist, an appearance that Is greatly desired -at present. From Just below the bust to the knees the foulard was striped, fairly wide lines of white on a dark blue ground. The lower half of the skirt was of plain blue and untrlmmed ex cept for a mtle beading where It Joined the striped silk. The same effect was carried out in the bodice, the sleeves and from the bust being made of plain blue. There was a patent leather Llt worn with the gown on which there were some motives In bright French gilt, and there waa a finish about the neck of yellow lace, with undersleevea to match. Another useful model Is all of striped blue and whits. A 4hc V 7 In. wmMM bordered with plain blue, which is arranged In panel effects down the sides and across the bottom In the front and back. On the bodice of this there was some embroidery done in coarse silks and bright shades. Only a little of this was used and It was skillfully mixed with lace so that it would not be too pronounced Chantecler Influence is being ahown in some of tho foulard costumes which are Intended for morning wear and which are really chic and unusual. Tha colors are the blues and browns of the pheasant, which were ef fectively worked out In tha material, ttie ground being of tha latter color spotted over with several ahadea of blue and bordered In plain brown. Tha particular model seen had some blue Introduced Into the uppxr part of the bodice and was ruched about the lower part of the skirt with brown bordered In blue, the upper part being of the figured. There was a narrow belt of blue with long ends hanging at the left side and a brown lace collar piped with soft blue. A low crowned, broad brimmed hat went with the gown, and this was of brown straw upon which were mounted the head, wings, and breast of the pheasant. This entirely covered the top of the hat. There was .4 t A t 1 arc' KaXoiSoitJBluut Sfcva.lhcEx'aicl FoloUU Ov&v a TxaUa Foundation of the Ssune Odor. This and a &vt o the Bids Ax Trimmed with $rna.UIhlh oi Mod in Gpeexx. lars 0sry Wiixs of Shaded Blue soi(heeti Placed JZLcectly izitheJBacIC' tiorst from cards ,. ' s. .7 V h sip? the left lb Thimm&i with, a Hu$t Mcach arid "PxnXr Qjynlowezs rWMi Fom .fyuMvs J3- also a parasol to match of brown foulard patterned In blue and bordered in brown, and the stick, which waa unusually long, was of tha same shade of brown wood with tha painted head of a pheasant on the handle. In soft materials printed designs and all aorta Of pat terned effects are being much more used than are plain colors, even for the most elaborate ooatumes. Most are bordered and of theae many are made Into three skirted gowns or gowns with two deep flounces and a aort of long basque for the upper part. Frequently this and the bodice will be veiled In plain chiffon of some con trasting color, black, maroon, and blue beiDg the favor ites. Sometimes these little coats, for that la what they really are, may be removed, but oftener they form a part of the coetume and are mada all In ona. Cashmere colorings and patterns predominate and some of theae are Indescribably lovely. Tha colors are aa soft as paintings and are beautifully blended and gowns and wraps, both made of these caahmern chif fons, are among the most attractive of any ahown this year. One little wrap I must mention, because it was so dainty and unusual. The ground of the chiffon was king's eye blue, over which the varied colors wero thrown In a stunning design, deep rose, yellow and ap ple green being the most prominent. Tha garment wai shawl shaped and reached only to tha kneea back and front. It waa entirely bordered, with a full, double frill of chiffon with a tiny heading of tha same. Over this shawl was draped a second one of fine Ch&ntllly lace, which was tacked in places, but hung In the soft est and most adorable folds. From tho neck and fall ing again over the lace shawl waa a hood of chiffon, ruffled, puffed, and corded, as only a French artist could form It, and for a trifle to be thrown over the shoulders It was perfection. It Is not only for gowns and wraps that cashmere designs sre being used, for they appear In an number of articles of women's dress, parasols of silk and chif fon show all tha patterns and colors both In brilliant and soft shades. Those of the latter material are fre quently lined with plain chiffon or net.