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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (April 5, 1908)
0 TITE OMAITA SUNDAY BEE: A TOIL 5. 190S. Tit f V ' ' mtm ''" WtMIIMihiiriIMI.ll'lWMli 't-S1 '.V.,' - wi i A . El I f I; UP COES TOE TI1EATER HAT Called a Turban, it Has Towering Possibilities. FASHION PRESSES THE LIMIT NOW Latest I'nrU Whim In Headgear Bar rowed (row the' Orient, Jut as Women Hare Hera Ilorrow lnsr It for Centuries. NEW YORK. April 4.-WI11 somebody please cull Hercules! That Hydra, the theater bat, la growing a now head! Information cornea that women In Purls are wearing turbans aa a aort of compro mise between no hat and too much hut at the theater, turbans which are In no Hon He hats, but exotio swathlngs of delicate atuffa in orchid hues, twisted and trimmed In true oriental faahlon, with ropes of pearla or a single glittering ornament over the middle of the forehead. This eastern head dress la pronounced a quite natural outcome of the Interest In things oriental which haa been aroused by the Moroccan troubles and the Turkish-Persian dispute. This same Interest perhaps haa taken from the women of the harem the soft -wide acarf or oriental girdle which is being used In half a dosen picturesque way, even tied low about the hips, as the east ern dancing woman wears It. Surely it was no accident that brought the Japanese aleeve and kimono lines Into the height of fashion directly after the war between Rus sia and Japan. These things have hap pened before In the history of costume, though it is only In these prosaic latter daya that the orient haa borrowed from the Occident. 1 Distinctive national drees is being eagerly discarded everywhere and the Turkish woman wears basques and French heels, -while Uie Japanese wears stays and French hats. In the old. time It was the immova ble east which subtly Influenced western dress through wars and pilgrimages, mer chants and ambassadors. The cultivated Moslems of the eleventh century regarded the Crusaders, with some reason, as brutal ajid stupid barbarians. and the Franks had no mind for anything but the bitterest religious hatred toward their brilliant foes at first. In time the temper of the hosts pf Christendom was insensibly softened by the superior rerine menLs of Constantinople and Cairo, and by means of ransomed captives, merchants and ambassadors there filtered into Europe steady stream of benefits in the way of VVllofsnapandlifei O FF R fl OH ITS OVVI TELEPHONE F0R.A,CA3E jmJWmMm' C- 1 SOUTH OMAHJV IITO HOUGLAS 1342 MhMM : Smi BREMNG COHPAtlY - .SSSS&SSm TIM LADIES AND THE THRK. trade anil mufnotures. In art and S"Ch things asumlnlstered to necessity and the gratification of sense and vanity. Three delights recorded as Introduced from the east wore silk. siar and elegant manners, all equal rnrltY. In dxike.it ! u rope. Here we begin to find glennis of the reawakening eUrnn! fenini.-e which had been suppressed for some cenlur e si;k, sugar nnil decant manners. Women accompanied Hip s con l crusade, which nlsu boasted a b ly or Anvigins, who rode In dm Htilim'e ami armor of m 'n, thniich It Is significantly recorded that the captain of the troop sported gilt spurs and buskins from which she was railed the Oolden-footed Dame. A courteous and suggestive title, for perhaps It was this en terprising snd glfeil p. ron who Introduced to European costume such dcllcUe novel ties as saracenpt, Inde sendel and gauze, which latter Is supposed to have come from Galm. In Palestine. Oriental amulets and stones to ward off dlsea.se became as much tho rage as re ligious relics. Hut even lief ore the first crusade Saracenic and Hyzantlne fashions were diffused through parts of southern Europe, were adopted by the Normans and by them were grafted upon the simple English costume which had before conquest much of the aniline Roman or Danish character. Ily the twelfth century It Is said that an EngllHh woman could fcarce'y be distinguished from a woman of ths lower empire. With all these oriental borrowings it was not until the fifteenth century that the Moslem turban became n fashionable European head dress, and probably its .-""fa. ,nJ,. .V. 1 V v . ' f r . s. , .... .i .:. . - .-7 .i J i,h tr r t wy . -Jjf iw: v. . THE COMING popularity Is to be accounted for by the fact that the Turks were then playing a brilliant part In the world's affairs which culminated In the taking of Constantinople Among the many fantastic, head tires, mostly of horned or heart shape, which distinguished Europtan costumes of this period appear large Lili ans of true Turkish form ami of the richest mateiluls. In a manuscript presented by I.ydgate to Henry VI a woman la drawn sitting up in bed with her turban on, while the wo rn n n attending her also wears the fashion able head dress. In another Illumination Is seen a group of women wandering In a mediaeval garden, all with turbans on, but such glorified turbans that they look 1 ke large half-opened flowers nodiilng In the breeze with a slender wpman for a stem. By the way. It Is not known whether the nillp suggested the turbsn. but In the orient, where they both coine from, they have the same name. The struggla between England and France for mastery In India in the eighteenth cen tury brought things oriental again Into fash I m In the ehrpe of the banian and turban. Furely masculine varieties wer those, and though ostensibly worn for Com fort only, they were evidently ohjrct.i of overweening pride In which many gentle men were eager to have their portraits p. tinted. The banian was a loose gown, which at first retained Its Indian shape and was made of printed India cotton, lutestring damask or worsted stuff. The turban waa Worn on the shaven head to rep'a-e tho heavy wig, A sober Htnton gentleman was painted in a bright blue brocade ban Ian, scarlet sllppeis. a scar'.et turban tilted over tme ear and e self-satisfied pmlrk. The next mania for oriental fabrics and fashions was inaugurated in France by the Egyptian campaign of 1798. French vessels brought back from Cilro and else where many knds of oriental stuffs and among them cashmere, Persan and Turk ish shawls. A real cashmere shawl was at first a great rarity, but by degrees they became moro general, though they were always uncommon enough to make the pos session pf one a sort of patent of gentility to any woman. Josephine was the first to bring oriental embroideries and the silken stuffs and muslins of the far Indies Into use, and tb" turban waa again launched upon a new lease of life, a vigorous ono this time, fir It continued to be one of the standard riea 1 dresses for nearly fifty years. There wer turbans of spangled muslin, of crepe, of satin, of velvet, Armenian, Jewish and Saracen head turbans and towering tur bans of fearful and wonderful construc tion. Indeed, there Is scarcely any head dress known to fashion that Is capable of I4 C. ft .mm THEATER HAT. 1 J 1 -a: 1r " " , , 1 i'v y oJSs rsrl'r' 14- b Xt..larims V'r" a51Tr TsBI-.i. TBI II.FTsWTIIWMgr,. Mmmm- IHL5 EA8TBR KIMTSf . I 111 109 South such startling fantasies as the turban, Which brings us back in a roundabout way straight to the point from which we started its use as a theater head dress. It sems at first glance a pleasant and sensible fashion. Tho average woman can not go to the theatef bareheaded, neither does her hair look well when she takes off her heavy hat, but we all know the disposition of these "dainty little theater head dresses" to grow and grow and grow until they obscure ihe view as effectively as tho blggent matinee hat known to man. It Is only necessary to look at some old prints showing the variations of the Mos lem turban to see the possibilities of this form of head dress and to know what tho theater-going public has to look forward to if they become tho fashion. TRADING STAMPS WITH COFFINS Trade Kxlareneles of Morticians De velop n Startling- New Wrinkle. "Trading Stamps with Every Funeral" la the placard that ono may expect to see Boon In the windows of up-to-date Chicago undertakers. That two or three funeral directors on the northwest side of the city have adopted the trading stamp system to Increase busi ness was revealed the other day when a bereaved widow canceled an order at H. M. Balaton's because he would not give her "green" stamps. Friends of hers, she said, who recently had deaths in their families, were given trading stamps by the undertaker, and she insisted on getting the coupons or she would go elsewhere. The matter of trading stamps will be brought before the Chicago Undertakers' association at its next meetln. M. M. Ooodale, president of the association, said the other evening that "the trading stamp business was a new one on him," but he supposed thoae engaged In It were "un dertakers who .carry on a deathbed In surance." "Those vultures," said Mr. Goodale, "will do anything to get business. The old fashioned name of undertaker is not good i Tmm wj -urit trr Shlrto. Gloves. Ties and Hose. Handkerchiefs for the nose What Etnows? I6th-Sf. enough for those fellows and they Call themselves 'morticians.' Now that the matter lias been called to my attention I will bring it up at the next meeting of .. r j km IN A MISDIAEVAt, GARDEN. the association. Trading stamps 1 What next?" The woman who dlsleosed the trading stamp scheme entered Ralston's undertak ing establishment at 8 o'clock In the after noon, accompanied by hor brother. She apparently waa about 40 years old. John Morris, manager of the establishment, no ticed that she did not have the grief stricken appearance of widows who come there on a similar errand. Throwing back the long veil that hid her face she brushed a tear away with a black bordered handkerchief. "I might as well tell ynu at the start," she said to Manager Morris, "that I haven't any money to throw away, on funerals. What I want Is a nice, plain casket, not expensive, but at the same time one that will look all right. I don't want It to look cheap, for folks probably would talk about It. Something for about o0, I think, would be the proper thing." Mr. Morris showed the widow and her escort several caskets at the price named, and the selected one which the man ob served was "gpod enough for a king." A brown robe ws preferred o a black one, because the decedent was parilal to the former color. Other details of the funeral were arranged, after which Mr. Morris asked the widow and her brother to be seated in the office while he took down the name asnd address. It was at this juncture that the woman asked him about the trading stamps. "You've made a mistake, madam," said the undertaker. "This Is not a department store." "And you don't give trading stampsT" she ejaculated. "Well, then, I'll go where I can get them. I know two women who buried their husbands In the last year and tho undertaker gave them trading stamps. They live on the northwest side. One lady got a beauiiful parlor lamp for her stamps and the other an onyx top center table. "And you mean to say you don't give stamps? Why, the very idea!" She was still talking about stamps when she reached the sidewalk. Chicago Tribune. ART AND CANNED MUSIC A Plea for the Machine as an In terpreter of the Master pieces. Some have thought that it was an of fense against art to permit an Indlvidia to play upon an automatic lnstrumen a great work In wrong tempo and wit) errors of emphasis. It is true that, If there were no possibility of correcting earliest impressions, there might be a basis for this view. Rut, Just as we still are glad to have children memorise mas terpieces of literature, even though they may bo Incapable of applying correct em phasis or of grasping fully the signifi cance of what they are learning, so should we be glad to allow tho mu sically Inexperienced to come In contact with a great werk, even thmtgh there may be a certain distortion of the or- Iglnal during the period of early ae-tf uualntance. Certalnlv one mav safel opine that the possibility of repeating! this experience Indefinitely, and of vary ing it by the use of a great number of masterpieces, means the attainment of a "good" before which the so-called or fense against art dwindles into insig nificance. For one who Is note-pcrfecLj in nis acquaintance witn a great work the composer lias become a definite artls tio personality; and the interpretatloi of that work under a great conductoi or- at . tho- hands of a great performei can begin to have Its due effect. To n4 create one's equipment and susceptibility! In these matters Is obviously tho chief! goal of an' musical education. Hence,! as we have said, among the agencies of I musical education, the automatic Instruct met is the 'most' efficient yet dlscov ered. Leo R. Iwls in the Atlantic. ( A Bachelor's Beflectlons. A man's idea of fun wouldn't be it It wu at home. An easy way to get a girl to admit sh likes you is for her not to. A woman believes everything she hear unless it sounds reasonable. A girl likes flattery lecause, even If yoi don't mean It. you oua-ht to know It's tun There's no use being so good in this wori. that It won't seem any different when you get io neaven.